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How to: 2nd Gen NO AC ( or heat) FROM VENTS!!! A "How to" what to look for thread

Discussion in 'A/C & Heater systems - HVAC' started by Turdle, August 9, 2007.

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    1. Turdle

      Turdle I bake stuff Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I am not sure. I kinda thought the ranger and explorer were similar. Maybe one of the Ranger owners will chime in, or possibly the information you seek is inside the ranger sub forum.
       
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    3. vsromero

      vsromero New Member

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      OK, thank you. At first I wasn't quite sure what you meant by the 'Ranger Sub Forum', and then I went back and did some more searching and I ran into that specific forum. So I'll check into it and see what I can come up with.

      BTW, I went out to my 2002 Ranger and beat the crap out of it for not being a 2001. :eek:

      Anyway, thanks again.
       
    4. skeeter123

      skeeter123 Active Member

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      2002 XLT V8, fix to vacuum heater valve

      My 3rd-gen XLT had the heater control valve burst about 2 years ago, I replaced it but couldn't figure out why the new one wouldn't open/close when it should. I finally got around to it yesterday after reading this thread. I'm sure that for even more than 2 years my heater valve has been stuck open, so that the coolant is always circulating and even on max-ac the air is being heated and then cooled. Since I just had the AC compressor replaced (it was shot after 177k miles), I wanted to get this heater valve fixed.
      Picture of dashboard apart, with red/yellow/blue/white vacuum control lines, and black supply line (from vacuum reserve):
      [​IMG]
      Now, on my 02 XLT, the black supply line comes in thru the firewall, goes to the vacuum reserve, then joins the other multi-colored vacuum lines on the back of the mode-selector switch. However, on its way there there's a tee-off, and another run of black vacuum line goes off behind the air vents to parts unknown. That second black line is accompanied by the grey heater valve control line. See yellow-ish tee and grey line in this picture:
      [​IMG]
      It seems as though the second black supply line and grey line go off to some sort of control-switch mounted behind the vents, and very hard to get to. I don't know what the design is supposed to be or do, but for years now it hasn't worked. So I came up with a work-around to tee off the white vacuum line (which has vacuum when Mode is Off or Max-AC, but no where else). I used a small (5/32nd) vacuum-line tee and 90deg elbows as shown here:
      [​IMG]
      I first cut the second black vacuum line coming off the tee in the black supply line and sealed it off with a rubber cap. Then I cut the white line, and used the tee and 90deg elbows to join the grey heater valve line on to the white line as shown:
      [​IMG]
      Then I put it all back together and tested it. see valve open:
      [​IMG]
      and valve closed:
      [​IMG]
      and yes, it seems to me that max-ac is colder now that the valve works. I don't know why Ford didn't do it this way, or how they intended the grey line to get vacuum, but I'm calling it done.
       
    5. Everhat24

      Everhat24 New Member

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      I Have a 97 Ford Explorer Sport! No matter where I set the Heat/AC Controls nothing but hot air comes out the defrost! If I put it on AC max the condenser is getting cold and compressor clutch is kicking on & turning on and off and when i turned the temperature control knob some times it sounds like the door is working for the temp door any suggestions? I was thinking it has something to do with the vacuum lines but when it comes to vacuum lines I'm lost PLEASE HELP!!!

      I unscrewed the 3 Knobs that control the heating and A/C I used my test light on all the Cables on the back side of all the knobs and they all have power but the 5 Vacuum lines Yellow, Red, Blue, White, and Black and I don't Feel anykind of sucksun or blowing from the lines

      My A/C Compressor & Condenser work fine, it gets cold & the clutch turns on & off so I took out the switches in the cab for all the different setting & used my test light on all the switches on the back side & all the hot, cold, defrost, vent, floor,& fan speeds Ext.& all the electrical seams to work fine but there were also 5 vacuum lines Red, Blue, Yellow, Black, & White behind the Def/Vent/Floor switch & I don't feel anything from them vacuum lines so I'm guessing its a vacuum line
       
    6. Phx4life

      Phx4life New Member

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      Where do the black and grey lines connect?

      I have a 1998 xlt with a eddie chassis and it is 4wd with the 4.0. I had the 2 lines disconnected and now cant figure whats the best way to connect them? I currently have the black tube connected to the red tube thats right by the valve cover on the passenger side and the grey tube connected to the thing under the altanator. I get cold air thro my front vents and a small amount of air through the rear. If I switch the tubes around I get air only through the defrost vents and more air through the rear vents then if it were connected the other way... I do have the black globe out and if I hook the globe up then the small red tube will not be connected to anything. Im not sure what to do with the tubes. I am lost. Does anyone have pics of where the red tube connects and where the black and grey tubes go? any help is greatly appreciated!
      Thanks
       
    7. hndgnr

      hndgnr New Member

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      Turdle Thanks for this thread

      Once again this forum helped me tremendously. this thread was invaluable in finding and fixing my ac / vacuum leak problem As far as locating the problem. And finding the components.My manual was not at all clear on were the vacuum ball was or how to get to it. thanks again I also finally figured out how to get to that last pesky spark plug passenger side against the fire wall while I was fixing the vacuum leak. Jerry:)
       
      Last edited: April 26, 2013
    8. hndgnr

      hndgnr New Member

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      skeeter123 I can't tell which black line you caped your finger is blocking the photo
       
    9. eazuaje

      eazuaje New Member

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      7 year old post still helps enthusiasts! I'll check this over the weekend and post some pics. Thanks!
       
    10. 4rd Xplora

      4rd Xplora Elite Explorer

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      Been wrestling with this for a week now. A/C blows thru the vents until you accelerate, then thru the defrost till you level off on speed.(it's so hot in Texas right now, you feel the change) Have traced the vacuum lines from the intake to when they disappear under the blower motor, then from behind the glovebox to the hvac control head, found nothing. Today I replaced the vacuum canister with a new Ford unit, no change. Late this evening, I pulled the right front inner fender lining (took a while longer than "5 minutes") :) and will check the lines from under the blower motor thru the firewall tomorrow. Got a feeling I will find nothing. My unit has the auto climate control head, so I may as well ask this, is there a way to check the control head? Oh yeah, Turdle, :salute:
       
    11. eazuaje

      eazuaje New Member

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      I´ll tell you about my experience; I have a 2000 explorer sport that everytime I accelerate, air conditioner only blowed through the defrost vents; I read a lot and found that some vacuum lines were broken, others were sealed by the previous owner and the truck had a CEL light caused by EGR fault because of those vacuum lines missing, so I found here a 4.0l vacuum diagram and follow it to the tee. I didn't replace the vacuum tank because it's impossible to find those specific spare parts here in venezuela, to replace the broken and missing lines I used a 5mm FESTO vacuum hose; about 5 meters to change the whole thing, I used the same fittings and placed the 4mm ford vacuum line into the 5mm festo lines, they fitted perfectly. After that, I checked into the dash, and also found that I had plugged the vacuum tank backwards, so I plugged it correctly and under the dash followed the black and white vacuum lines, one goes to the defrost solenoid, and the other goes to the vacuum tank, check that also.
      In the vacuum tank the check valve must be in the side of the engine so that vacuum is held even if the engine is off.

      You'll find all you need in the forum. Just google 4.0l vacuum ford diagram.
      I'm sure you'll figure it out.

      I fixed my problem in a 3 hour process, please feel free to ask as I'll answer as soon as posible.

      Eiber.:salute:
       
    12. 4rd Xplora

      4rd Xplora Elite Explorer

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      Well I checked the vacuum lines under the wheel well and found nothing. I checked my original canister and it holds vacuum so it wasn't the culprit also it has two different sizes on the connections, so you can't cross them up. Did find a bad 90 degree elbow connector on the heater control valve. Replaced, made no difference. Have traced just about every inch of line on the unit and have found no breakage, rub thru spots or disconnects. Now, I have been having trouble with the heater control valve leaking antifreeze lately, could this be related?
       
    13. 4rd Xplora

      4rd Xplora Elite Explorer

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      Going to replace the heater control valve with a Ford unit. If nothing changes, she goes to the shop on Monday.
       
    14. eazuaje

      eazuaje New Member

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      Replace the heater control valve, it's leaking so there's not much to do there; now, did you checked all the vacuum lines in the engine bay? all those lines are connected to the same vacuum source that the air conditioner control is connected to, which means that any vacuum leak will have an effect on the system: EGR, Fuel Recirculation, Air Conditioner, Heater, Brakes and PCV. If you checked and found nothing, check again and replace the heater valve; check the lines that go into the passenger side bay, you'll find two lines that come from the firewall, a white one and a black one and a connector; it's very easy to hit it with a foot and disconnect it, so check there before going to the shop; your pocket will be thankfull!
      Those white and black lines go to the control know in my X-sport, I have manual controls, so I'm not sure if it's the same on yours which is automatic.
      The other thing I would check is all the vacuum lines in the dash; there are a few valves in there, any of them could be disconnected, broken or blocked, just check to be sure.
      Like I said before, I'm completely sure that in my X-sport with manual controls for the air conditioner the problem was in the vacuum lines, I fixed the lines and I fixed the problem. Every time I accelerate it would start blowing air through the defogger and the front ducts would close, I checked all the lines and after fixing the lines and placing them in the right way the problem stopped, the CEL light was resetted with a battery pull and have not had that problem ever since.
      Today it´s a good day to check those lines; inside and out; any vacuum leak will cause that problem when you accelerate; the engine creates most vacuum when at idle, and the least vacuum when accelerated.
      I hope my experience can help you with your X.
      Later we can talk about that heater valve, in Venezuela we have no cold weather, at least not where I live, and it's difficult to find a heater control valve because it's a no sell... so I just removed it, put a couple plugs in the water pump and the heater core, and now it's good to go... Just in case you don't need that valve or found no replacement.

      Any questions I'll be arround.

      Eiber.:salute:
       
    15. 4rd Xplora

      4rd Xplora Elite Explorer

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      Well I'm sitting on a new heater control valve and a new vacuum canister. Neither fixed the problem so I put the old ones back on. The black and white lines are the ones I tracked from under the fender well thru the firewall and out the other side behind the glove box. So from the intake to the back of th A/C control head, I've eyeballed or sprayed all the visible lines, time to quit. It was 95+ here in Texas the other day and I've lost 6 pounds in this heat dealing with this. You'd be surprised how hot you get when the vents stop blowing air. Well she gets to sit out this week because I'm heading back to work Monday driving the Bullitt. Next week I'm off early one day and I'll take her in then.
       
      Last edited: July 28, 2013
    16. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      I feel for you. My 98 has blown hot air for many years while on AC. I'm down to either the blend door or the EATC itself. For some reason mine is routing air through the heater core almost all of the time. I think it's the blend door really, every blue moon it will work okay for a short time, but I think a little vibration or a change in the control direction(hot/cold based on temp chosen), moves the blend door back to the heater core.

      It's really hard to drive in 90* or more with hot air coming out.
       
    17. 4rd Xplora

      4rd Xplora Elite Explorer

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      Ok, the saga continues. Drove it to the store last night and no a/c at all. Massive leak. Green dye showing around the compressor and a puddle under it. My fault, put an "el cheapo" rebuilt compressor on a while back :nono: (yes I put oil in the unit and it did last 3 years) This time will put a brand new one on and once again go over as much of the vacuum lines as possible. :hammer:
       
      Last edited: August 4, 2013
    18. 4rd Xplora

      4rd Xplora Elite Explorer

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      Replaced the compressor, accumulator, and orfice tube this am. Taking it down to a friends shop on monday to have the system evacuated and charged. Next weekend, one last shot at finding the vacuum leak. One question though. My X may have only 2-3 years left in this world (or at least with me), and since I live in (we think winter is a myth) central Texas, is it possible to just fix the system so it only blows thru the vents? That is about the ony setting I use anyway, no matter heat or the a/c.
       
    19. 4rd Xplora

      4rd Xplora Elite Explorer

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      After the a/c was recharged, ripped her apart again looking for the vacuum leak, no luck. But I did find the door that controls the dash/defroster vents. I disconnected the vacuum control's rod from the door and set the door to blow thru the dash vents, and the heater (floor) setting still works. When the system "defaults" now, it will still blow thru the dash vents. This will hold me until the weather cools enough to to search some more. Happy Happy Happy.
       
      Last edited: August 17, 2013
    20. ExplorerSHO

      ExplorerSHO New Member

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      I have one hose coming out of the top of the reservoir on the top and connects to nothing. Any idea where that black hose goes to?
       
    21. eazuaje

      eazuaje New Member

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      One vacuum line comes from the engine vacuum and the other goes to the A/C Control Knob in the dash.

      Eiber. :salute:
       
    22. cusingeorge

      cusingeorge New Member

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      I've been fighting this for about a year now (1997 Sport 4.0 EFI). I thought it was the blend door, but it appears to be working on it's own so now I've been reading this thread and noted where it was said by Turdle that the heater control valve will close when the max a/c is selected, so I checked this out and the valve doesn't move at all (unless I move it manually), in fact, there's no vacuum there at all, but it did apparently have vacuum since the valve was closed (the rod was drawn into the small canister) on two separate occasions that I can think of, but when I am actually working to find a cause, it doesn't work. I've got vacuum to the globe, but I have not pulled the line under the dash to see if vacuum is reaching under the dash, although the max a/c door works just fine, and it's vacuum operated.

      Is it conceivable that the control valve is defective? Wouldn't I at least have vacuum to the valve? I've placed the climate controls in every setting possible to try and get it to move with zero results.
       
    23. Turdle

      Turdle I bake stuff Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Check the grey line from reservoir to the bypass valve. It might be cracked, or crushed. The reservoir might be full of condensed moisture, you might remove it and give it a shake.
       
    24. cusingeorge

      cusingeorge New Member

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      Eureka!! I pulled the gray line that feeds the hot water cut off valve and put compressed air to it, and couldn't get anything to go through, so I cleaned it a bit and found a collapsed spot about 3 inches down from where the elbow attaches. Cut the bad spot out, re-connected the elbow and re-attached to the valve and it works just fine now.

      Thanks for the guidance!!
       
    25. Mr Smoke

      Mr Smoke New Member

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      Re Post #11
      Thank you for this post & photos. I just bought my '98 Ranger 180 K miles because my mechanic friend of 30 years had replaced the engine and trans and the body was rust free. However, the heater controls didn't work except in defrost mode and I had a check engine light.

      After rereading this post for several nights, I broke down and removed the frt passenger wheel well liner. Took 90 minutes. (My private personal nickname is "Thumbs") Lo, I found a melted black vacuum line (the one from the canister to firewall fitting). Which is one of the predicted causes of my predicament. Used a piece of rubber vac hose to splice it and heater control now works in all positions. Disconnected battery for 30 minutes to reset check engine light. Wow, it no longer lights up! Problem solved.

      This truck is my first pickup and for practical purposes is my 71st b'day toy, so thx again.
       
    26. Cathie

      Cathie New Member

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      Replaced thermostat control , heater worked ,but you could hear the door for heat open . Now no heat! What's the problem? I get a little heat on the floor but no heat out the defrost or vents. Can anyone help!
       

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