3rd gen Explorer Blend Door Actuator Replacement | Page 5 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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3rd gen Explorer Blend Door Actuator Replacement

I can't say for sure right now but I believe that both sides are only getting mildly warm air at best. But I will check tomorrow to see if there is a difference. Mainly I have been setting the sytem to blow air from the dash vents and I have been unable to get decent warm air. Defrost doen't work well either. The vents do blow cold air when I reduce the temp setting however. Also, I did check the rear air system and that seems to be getting proper warm air. So is there a blend door on the right and left of the front center console that I can get to and see if either is being fully operated?

Yep, there are 2 blend doors and 2 actuators with the DATC. The one on the left is what is shown in this thread and your's has one in the same place. Your's also has one on the right side that looks like a holy terror to get at. The FSM shows the whole dash assembly being "positioned aside" to get to it.

But, does it sound logical that both blend doors would be only going part way to heat on both sides at the same time? Sounds to me like something else is wrong, maybe one of the sensors is giving bad input to the DATC module. It gets input from the cabin air temp sensor, the ambient air temp sensor, the sun load sensor, and the PCM. The DATC module can store 2 types of codes from all the input sensors except the PCM. Don't ask me why Ford calls hard fault codes "on demand" and intermittant fault codes "continuous", but they do. So see if any codes are stored:



Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module — Diagnostic Methods

The dual automatic temperature control system must be diagnosed by first retrieving any DTCs, if present.

  • An on-demand (hard fault) DTC indicates that the fault is currently present. An on-demand DTC suggests a wiring fault, disconnected connector, or component failure.
  • A continuous (intermittent) DTC alone (corresponding on-demand DTC is not present) indicates that the fault is an intermittent condition and may not be currently present. A continuous only DTC suggests a poor wiring connection, loose pin or terminal, or intermittent component failure.
On-demand (hard fault) or continuous (intermittent fault) DTCs can be retrieved using a diagnostic tool. If using a diagnostic tool, refer to the diagnostic tool operating manual.

On-demand DTCs can also be retrieved by carrying out the Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module on-demand Self-Test. To retrieve and/or clear continuous DTCs carry out the Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module — Retrieve Continuous DTCs procedure. Always carry out the Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module on-demand Self-Test before retrieving continuous DTCs.

If no DTCs are present, GO to Symptom Chart for the appropriate diagnostic action


--------------------------

Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module On-demand Self-Test

The DATC module on-demand self-test will retrieve on-demand (hard fault) DTCs only, it will not retrieve continuous DTCs. Continuous DTCs can be cleared when exiting the DATC module on-demand self-test. Make sure to retrieve continuous DTCs by carrying out the Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module — Retrieve Continuous DTCs procedure before clearing any continuous DTCs.

  • The DATC module on-demand self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A diagnostic tool must be used to retrieve these concerns.
  • The DATC module on-demand self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display on-demand (hard fault) DTCs for concerns that are present during the self-test. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°C - 38°C (40°F - 100°F) when performing the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false DTCs may be displayed.
  • The self-test can be initiated after cycling the ignition switch from OFF to ON. Normal operation of the climate control system stops when the self-test is activated.
  • To enter the self-test press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and release, then press the AUTO button within two seconds. The display will show a flashing blower icon for 20 seconds, after which all vacuum fluorescent segments will be displayed if there are no on-demand DTCs present. If DTCs are present the DATC module will display "00 00" and then on-demand DTCs. Record all DTCs displayed.
  • If any DTCs appear during the self-test, carry out the diagnostic procedure. Refer to the Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module Diagnostic Trouble Code Index and follow the ACTION for each DTC given.
  • If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, GO to Symptom Chart Condition: The DATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Incorrect Operation.
  • To exit the self-test and retain all continuous DTCs, press any button except DEFROST. The DATC module will exit the self-test and retain all continuous DTCs.
  • To exit the self-test and clear all continuous DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The DATC module will exit the self-test and all continuous DTCs will be cleared.
  • Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF). Once the self-test is exited the ignition switch must remain ON for at least 30 seconds to allow the temperature blend door actuators to automatically recalibrate.
  • Continuous DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent fault occurs.


-------------------------------------

Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module — Retrieve Continuous DTCs

The DATC module will retrieve only continuous (intermittent) DTCs when carrying out this procedure.

  • Retrieval of continuous DTCs can be initiated after cycling the ignition switch from OFF to ON. Normal operation of the climate control system stops when retrieving continuous DTCs.
  • To retrieve continuous DTCs press the OFF and PANEL buttons simultaneously and release, then press the AUTO button within two seconds. All vacuum fluorescent segments will be displayed if there are no continuous DTCs present. Continuous DTCs are indicated by the presence of the degrees Celsius symbol (°C) on the DATC module display. Record all DTCs displayed.
  • If any DTCs appear, carry out the diagnostic procedure. Refer to the Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module Diagnostic Trouble Code Index and follow the ACTION for each DTC given.
  • If a condition exists but no DTCs appear, GO to Symptom Chart Condition: The DATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Incorrect Operation.
  • To exit and retain all continuous DTCs, press any button except DEFROST. The DATC module will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and retain all continuous DTCs.
  • To exit and clear all continuous DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The DATC module will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and all continuous DTCs will be cleared.
  • Always exit the procedure before powering the system down (system turned OFF). Once the procedure is exited the ignition switch must remain ON for at least 30 seconds to allow the temperature blend door actuators to automatically recalibrate.
  • Continuous DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent fault occurs.


Be sure to write down any codes you might get during either test. Also note that you should wait 30 seconds after you turn the DATC off before turning the ignition switch off for the blend door actuators to recalibrate. See if you can hear the actuators moving during that 30 seconds.

It would be really great if the DATC could retrieve codes from the PCM, but it can't.
 



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Thanks very much for the technical info. I have printed it out and will perform the diagnostics. While reading the procedure a thought came to mind that might have some bearing on my problem. If I am recalling correctly my problem with the heater was only noticed after I had mistakenly left the headlights on over night a week or so ago. The next day I found my remote unlock wouldn't work and after checking around found I had left the lights on and run tha battery down. So I put a charger on the battery (while it was still installed in the vehicle) and got the battery back up to full charge and everything seemed to be ok. Even the radio station settings were still as they were supposed to be. But...I wonder if this could have messed up the control system in such a way as to get things out of calibration? Perhaps running the diagnostics will reset things? I will give it a try and advise my results here. Thanks again for the quick response and detailed advice.
 






04' Blend door actuator

This is for anyone who wants to purchase an 04' Ford Explorer blend door actuator !

Part # 1L2z19e616-ca
$36.40 on parts.com
 






Blend Door Actuator

I am new to this forum, and so far it looks great and very informative. My wife has a 2003 Explorer XLT and it has all the symptoms most everyone is describing....clicking and such. I understand most of the repair instructions except for 1...why do u have to take the center console out if it is above the steering column. I am about remove the column to get to it...hopefully...but wanted to make sure I wasnt missing something. thanks Shannon
 






It's not above the steering column. It's by your right shin when you are the driver. Don't remove the steering column.
 






Still nothing on a rear blend actuator for a 2002?

Sounds like a tiny unicorn kicking around back there! The first time I heard the noise I thought it was a squirrel inside my wheel well or something.
 






thank u sleb for all information but i have problem and i dont know if it from the actuator or something else. I have 2004 explorer and my problem is that the outside smell is coming inside the car either the ac on or its off, i removed the middle console and radio panel and i couldn't reach the door so if u have any illustration diagram i well be thankful.even i have problem with the rair actuator as if you rotate the climate knob it give knocking sound untilll you but it in the middle the sound vanishe.
 






rear noise was not tires 02 exp

what i thought tire ended up wheel bearing 100 dollars 8 hrs later on the again can be done in back yard and welder got more details email me for info
 






FWIW, this is a pretty simple repair.

Did mine ('03 XLT) last night in just over 90 mins, start to finish. Did not go by the service manual (i.e., remove the instrument panel), just the advice in this thread. I removed the console (seven bolts), panel under the steering column (two bolts), brace under the steering column (two bolts), vertical brace by the driver's right shin (two bolts, two nuts), and the driver's side floor duct (two screws). This gave me plenty of access. Tools used included 7mm, 8mm, and 10mm sockets, ~18" worth of extensions, 8mm and 10mm combination wrenches. Pretty basic. Probably could've saved some skin on my hands if I wasn't so cheap and had some other whiz bang tools, but a set of wrenches, sockets and extensions in 7, 8 and 10mm will do the trick.

To reiterate what others have said:

1) Definitely go OEM and get a Motorcraft part. Stay away from Napa, Advance, etc.

2) Plug in the new/good actuator before you attempt to install it. It will self-calibrate and align the spindle according to your temperature switch. After doing this and inserting the actuator spindle into the blend door, the three actuator screw holes aligned perfectly.
 






its a pain in the neck but its an easy fix

by looking at the pictures FairfaxExplorer posted (#57 on page3) and the simple instruction above, It took me about 1-1/2 hrs. to replace mine on my 2004 Ford Explorer XLT. Here is a brief story of my experience.

1. Stretch a lot
2. a pot of coffee
3. a lot of patience
4. all you have to remove is the center console. Back it all out so its not on the way.
5. Remove cover underneath the steering column but not the steering column.
6. Look at the picture on posting #57 by FairfaxExplorer & make a note on that red circle & where his finger are pointing.
7. Remove the old one by unplugging the wire connector, remove the screw (mine only has 2) then pull the actuator out of the hole (you'll hear a thug), this is where patience is necessary. On the picture, FairfaxExplorer's finger is pointing at the cover. Just pull this cover very gently & the actuator will slide out very easy.
8. Follow the instruction from the above post. The note #2 is very important.
"plug in the new unit, then play around the heat/air temperature control & you will see that the actuator will adjust to where the temperature setting is."
9. Installing it back on is a bit of a challenge because you need to line up the tabs. Patience is very important here again & maybe at this time, walk away & do some stretching & a coffee.
10. After you finally lined it up, make sure to push the actuator in. Put the bottom screw first, then the one on the top where you can use the long extension as per FairfaxExplorer suggestion on posting #57. Plug in the connector.
11. Test it before putting everything back in place.

Its a pretty easy job. the Ford Dealership here in my town is charging me close to $1000.00 to replace them.
 






Well I plan on doing mine here in the next few weeks after I buy the parts.

I'll try to do a write up since everyone seems to be wanting one with pictures.
 






I have an 02 Mountaineer with the DATC. The passenger side seems to work fine but the driver's side A/C does not blow cold. Does it sound like the driver's side actuator and/or blender door are not functioning properly?
Thanks
 






Do i have this problem?

I am about to take delivery of a 2002 xlt that has a ac problem. Dealerhip told my brother (who is giving me the car) that the whole ac boz has to be replaced. This is different than all of the issues i have read here where people didn't have heat. This car doesn't have AC.

My father has a 2004 and the heat and ac both work but the diverter is bad i believe because air blows out of all of the vents and not out of the designated vent via the control.

Any help would be appreciated.
 






'05 Explorer

Removing the center console seems to be the challenge for me! Where exactly are the clips and which way do I press them? Or do I simply pry it out gently?
 






Do I have this problem...ditto?

Trying to figure out if I have a "blend door actuator" problem or another (eg diverter?) problem in my front AC. I'm in the Arizona desert and have not noticed "can't get heat problem" which seems typical of northerner problems with blend door/actuators.
MY PROBLEM is I can't get the air to go to the right place, (eg defroster when I go north does NOT work). Can get heat, but only to the toes/dash.
It's a real PITA a few times a year when I go north so gotta fix it before the weather turns cold again. Is there a "diverter actuator" similar to the blend door actuator? If so, where and how do I get to it? Is there a "how to diagnose" walk thru to figure out if it is a blend door, acutator, diverter or some other gremlin? Can someone point me in the right direction?
FYI/FWIW
Had a "clicking" in the rear unit (have standard with front/back AC) a couple of years ago. Did an "actuator" replacement on that, needed to pull all the plastic shrouds off the left rear & loosen the AC/heater box from the side wall, etc, etc. to get at it as it's on the exterior side between the fender and the box, real PITA to get to, but doable. The actuator may actually have been the exact same part as above for the blend door. When I took it apart, the same cheap POS plastic gear was stripped out. It's been fine since.......time will tell.
 






Getting closer, still have panel/defrost door lever arm problem

rrgone, thank you for your PM & assistance! After standing on my head for an hour I found and reattached the pin on the exterior/recirc door lever which had come off the vacuum motor acutator. Managed to get the actuator arm back on the pin by feel & switching the dial back and forth 'til the hole in the arm slid over the pin. Then I found a wing nut about the right diameter and spun it onto the end of the pin. If anyone has a better way to hold it on, I am open to ideas. I'm afraid the nut will work off eventually, but one problem solved for now, that was the easy one....

Also found the defrost/panel door lever arm totally broken off. The vacuum motor and lever are on the passenger side (not driver side) left of the glove box, not impossible to get at, but not easy either. Since the arm is broken, looks like no easy fix, so looking to see if someone has a nifty idea to get this reattached. Thinking maybe could fab a replacement lever arm and somehow bolt/screw or glue to the pivot but worried if would hold up.

Any ideas? Got a picture if I it would help but can't figure out how to post (newbie), also getting off subject so may not belong in this thread, so any direction how where to go from here would be appreciated.
 






dadude, that is the panel door lever that is broken on the passenger side of the air box. The defrost door lever and vacuum motor are on the driver's side. Your panel door is probably resting against the defrost and floor doors preventing them from working properly. Someone made a clever repair on their panel door recently and posted a pic here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249624

I don't think there was ever suppose to be a wing nut holding the vacuum motor arm to your recirc door lever. That sounds like someone has repaired it before. If you have some spare time it might be your best bet to pull the dash out and fix what needs fixxin under there. PM me again with your email address if you want the Ford wsm procedure for getting the dash out. That's a big job I wouldn't want to do in this heat, but might be your best bet. Good luck.
 






i did my actuator on my 04 xlt. it took less than a hour!!!! definetly clicking caused by the stripped gear.
i also replaced my bsi switch also, it was sometimes tough going into park

i wanted to thank every one for the helpful imformation . you guys are the greatest!!!!!!!!! :salute::D:salute::D
the shop manual made it seem like it was going to tough.
two hours time total . im glad i do this for a living than giving the dealer a fortune. i rather keep my cash than them getting rich.
 






when it is in defrost mode should i still have heat at the side vents on the console. it isnt real strong blowing out the defrost? couldnt remember if this was normal.
the a/c and heat are so much better though. i hated the clicking noise. i could see with the vent trim off and vent selected, i could see the temp blend door struggling with the actuator, nice and smooth now. all the doors and vac diaphrams seem ok
thanks again phil
 



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Toasty now

This newbie wants to thank all yous guys, esp. Sleb and wolderiii for posting the diagrams. Purchased actuator from RockAuto for my '04 Explorer XLT, and dove in this morning headfirst. Literally. Took me three hours, mostly 'cause I hate cramped spaces, and had to run back to the autoparts store to return a (cheap) busted ratchet I just bought, 1/2 hour into the job (!?!!).

Must say that this forum is top notch, everything I read, from the problems and questions people asked, to the answers from folks with experience, really helped me get the job done.

Also, ridged43, your instructions extremely helpful - thanks!! "A little finesse - not force" - great advice.

Keep up the good work. Next stop, search for help w/ ABS. LOL

SapoKiko ^_^
 






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