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4.0 SOHC Performance Motor Build

Discussion in 'Need for Speed!' started by Jakee, June 21, 2009.


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    1. Limited02

      Limited02 Well-Known Member

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      That's a bummer! At least she's back to running again:D

      Would there be any way to add an oil seperator or do I have the wrong thing in mind and it's not possible???
       
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    3. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      scavenge pump

      That looks like an oil scavenge pump by Exa-Pump. One of those might be suitable as an engine pre-oiler. They're rated for continuous duty, 50+ psi, with oil inlet temperature as high as 350 degrees. I haven't been able to find a specification on self-priming capability.
       
    4. Jakee

      Jakee Elite Explorer

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      No. The turbo is mounted under the truck and beneath the oil level in the pan. When this is the case, you need a pump to return the oil to the pan. (see above for that pump I just added). If this pump fails the oil will build up in the center section of the turbo. It will then find its way out of the bearings and into the exhaust. It will also find its way out the bearing and into the compressor side. There are no magic seals on a turbo. If you fill the center section up, it will find its way out the bearing journals. So for a remote mounted turbo it is extremely important to have a very good oil return system. I now have the best pump out there but I need to make sure all the wiring is up to par. Also need to make sure the relay I have is good. I’m thinking it was corrosion but it could’ve been the relay getting hot. Anyways, I need to go thru this and make sure. Also need to hook the warning light back up that tells me when there is no power to the pump. If this was there I would have caught it before it started smoking. So in short, I need a failsafe mechanism added.
       
    5. Limited02

      Limited02 Well-Known Member

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      Makes sense, now get to work!!!
       
    6. Jakee

      Jakee Elite Explorer

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      Hey, that built in cabinet is nice! Good work
       
    7. Jakee

      Jakee Elite Explorer

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      It is self priming and it can run dry. However, it is recommended it gets a splash of oil every minute to keep the worm gears lubricated.
       
    8. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      You will get it worked out and reliable I am sure Jake. The electric fan is the same way, it has to have dead reliable power feeds so it always runs. I've had my fan to not get juice once, and it ruined the T-stat and overheated.

      For that pump, I would install the heavy gauge wiring you are etc, but how about two relays. How about installing two power feed circuits in parallel. Feed two relays that are both capable of powering the pump, and route them two different ways, if heat is an issue along the path.
       
    9. Jakee

      Jakee Elite Explorer

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      Good suggestion. I'm not the best when it comes to technically correct wiring so I could use all the help.
       
    10. Limited02

      Limited02 Well-Known Member

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      Thank you;) NOW GET TO WORK ON THE WIRING!!!

      That's actually a great idea!!!

      Here's a question(Hope it makes sense!)

      Let's say the pump requires a 30amp fuse...

      -Do you use a 30amp fuse on each line or a 15amp fuse on each line?

      -Would having two 30amp fuses make it seem like one 60amp fuse and not give the pump a chance to "blow the fuse," then causing harm to the pump?

      -If no fuse is required, then nevermind:p:
       
    11. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      For a circuit that has more than one path like that for it, I'd use one fuse that feeds the whole thing. Take the power from one point or wire connection, and have the fuse or circuit breaker in that sourced power.

      I haven't begun to add any new circuits to my truck, but I'd like to begin with a battery which has dual terminals. Has anyone here discovered what batteries can go in the Explorer and has side terminals? I'd prefer to leave the stock battery cables in place on the top posts, and add cables to the side terminals for new circuits. I hate cutting main battery cables, having the engine start reliably is the biggest priority.
       
    12. Jakee

      Jakee Elite Explorer

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      I found a site last night madelectrical.com that explains the double relay suggestion. I'm going to do this.
       
    13. Jakee

      Jakee Elite Explorer

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    14. rocket 5979

      rocket 5979 Resident Gearhead

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      That's nice but a bit overpriced. Get a $20 low pressure hobbs pressure switch from Napa and a $10 12vdc piezo buzzer from Radio Shack, $5 in electrical wiring crap and about $10 in brass pipe fittings.

      Adjust the Hobbs down to 1 psi, install it into a brass tee between the turbo oil outlet and the inlet of the pump and wire the piezo buzzer and everything else together. That piezo buzzer is loud and annoying so it will be able to get your attention if the pump fails. No need for the tactile warning device unless you just absolutely blast the hell out of your stereo all the time.
       

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    15. Jakee

      Jakee Elite Explorer

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      Yes, I have all the stuff needed, pieced together just like you suggested. I've had it for a long time but haven't hooked it up. Just need to check the hobbs setting and make sure it's around 1 lb.


      I'm going to use a red warning light in place of a buzzer. And a green or blue light letting me know there's power.
       
    16. rocket 5979

      rocket 5979 Resident Gearhead

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      I thought about using a warning light as my indicator but then decided against it since it could be missed when I am in that "highway zombie mode" while driving to work at 0500 in the morning. :p:
       
    17. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Good thought Rob, a noise is best for some critical warnings.
       
    18. Jakee

      Jakee Elite Explorer

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      Good point. And knowing myself, I should probably add 10 buzzers..LOL

      then again, anythings better than having the blue smoke tell you your pump is not on.
       
    19. Jakee

      Jakee Elite Explorer

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      Changing this…change that…and after more test runs only to see little puffs of smoke out the exhaust (after driving it for awhile)…..the frustration has finally left me and I’m able to apply logic to this. My thought was the worst; the turbo is gone, or worse, I screwed something up when I rebuilt the turbo. But that’s unlikely as when the truck is started and just idling there is no smoke at all. Driving down the road normally there is no smoke. It happens after I’ve been on the highway going over 60 MPH or when I get on it hard. The RPMs raises the oil pressure and the pump is not running fast enough to keep up…It’s not getting the full amps it needs. My volt gauge is lower than it used to be. I don’t know the exact amperage as the gauge is stock. Just that it’s at lower than the middle section of the gauge; something I don’t remember being the case in the past.

      I'm pretty sure this is entirely electrical. I’m going to replace the belt first cuss I have a feeling it’s slipping. That smaller ALT pulley has always made me feel uneasy. I’m seeing small traces of rubber in the engine bay around the belt route. If that doesn’t bring the volt meter back up, I’ll replace the alternator. I do have a 130 amp but I may go up to a 150 amp. I do have the elec. Fan, scavenge pump and alpine sucking the volts so an upgrade couldn’t hurt. I’ve traced down all the wiring and confirmed it’s good. I’m for sure going to add a second relay and run it when the boost hits. This will kick the pump on high just like STS does it with their kit. I didn’t do this before because I didn’t understand how to hook two relays up. But earlier in the thread, Don mentioned adding the second relay. It then dawned on me that this is what STS is using to give pull amps to their pump once the hobbs switch detects boost.

      Rob – correct me if I’m wrong, but this is how there harness works, correct?

      Soo……it just may turn out that the STS pump was still good and I forked out the bucks for the new pump prematurely. Oh well, it’s all good, and I’ve just perfected my set-up a bit more.
       
    20. Jakee

      Jakee Elite Explorer

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      Technical note:

      When you dump 2 - 3 quarts of oil into your exhaust, and have a borla pro xs muffler, it takes over 50 miles to get all the oil burned out of it. It will trick you into thinking you're still leaking oil into the exhaust, when in fact, you're just still burning the oil from when the relay went out.

      So all is good again.
       
    21. SVO

      SVO Moderator Emeritus/Doctor Moderator Emeritus

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      .,
       
      Last edited: August 8, 2011
    22. techieman33

      techieman33 Explorer Addict

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      wow, what a tease, all those pretty pictures and not one word to give us any details.
       
    23. SVO

      SVO Moderator Emeritus/Doctor Moderator Emeritus

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      .,
       
      Last edited: August 8, 2011
    24. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Very nice, well done. Where did the extra 40 or so cubic inches come from? The pistons and rods don't look a bunch shorter, what is the bore and stroke now?

      That'll move a Mustang.
       
    25. Jakee

      Jakee Elite Explorer

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      Very nice. Looks like 350 rods, yes? Intake? I give up on that one...

      4.7? Okay, so really big bore and stroked? Share details?
       
    26. SVO

      SVO Moderator Emeritus/Doctor Moderator Emeritus

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      Last edited: August 8, 2011

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