Discussion in 'Need for Speed!' started by Jakee, June 21, 2009.
that's pretty sweet man, yeah building these motors with forged parts is costly
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Jake, do you have any need for a new complete SOHC head? There's one on eBay from a seller I've bought a lot of new old Ford parts from. I think it was a good price, and it's states it's the left head.
$175 for a new head, that's a steal.
Complete new SOHC Explorer head
Yes, I'll check it out, thanks.
Even if you aren't going to do it now, what did you figure out would work, as far as overbore/stroking/pistons/rods/etc...?
Give me a little while to get my crap together. I'll make a few posts with the options I thought about.
Finally got around to installing this...
I'm tired, but is that a meth injection kit????
Nope. It is an oil injection kit.
Talk about a quite pump. You can't hear it, which is something I have to get use too.
Guys - It's running pretty good. The butt dyno say's it will smoke that x-charger mustang I just worked on.
Great to hear Jakee!!! Take it easy and enjoy it, when the weather looks like a good day for running, take it to the track and get some times
I'm still waiting on pictures with the new wheels on.......:
I don't want to post pictures of my truck, everyone will know who I am and won't race for money...haha (bs)
But you know what - this thread started out as a motor build....hmmmm.
Heads and cams, h-beam rods, O-ringed block, 10:1 compression. Enough boost to get the effective compression ratio to the edge. Hmmmm
I'll post some pictures of mine if that'll get you to post some pictures of yours??? I'd really like to see the new wheels on and pictures of the engine bay
Also, the sad thing is no one expects an Explorer to be remotely fast so I bet you have enough trouble finding someone to play. The only people I've come across that will race anything including a turtle are ricers, but even they are few and far between
Okay, I'll shoot for the end of this weekend to have some new pics.
Will Small Block Chevy pistons/rods work or what? Did you find something else that would? How big can we overbore?
Thanks for the reminder.
I didn’t look into stroking cuss I don’t like the idea of making the crank weaker. My luck, that would be the new weak link and would bust the entire engine. What I did find has been updated on the first post.
• The 4.6 stroker rod is an option along with custom pistons.
• The small block chevy rods are an option along with custom pistons.
• Both need machine work. The 4.6 stroker rods big end is on the money. The SBC rods Big end has to be opened up. I believe both widths have to be narrowed.
• Supersix and Morana both carry their own custom rods and pistons
• The custom pistons are in the 850 dollar range.
• I would not go lower on the piston compression ratio if I were having custom pistons made. I would rather just run the boost I can get with the same CR or higher. I’ve seen to many people rebuild their engines with a lower CR only to be greatly disappointed. Maybe an all out race engine is a different story but most reading are probably building a street/strip motor.
So that’s that, the next thing would be the heads and cams.
Sorry I missed the deadline for the pictures!
Just reread the whole thread. maybe I missed it , but I didn't see a definitive answer on the 4.00 bore size. Will the block take that extra .010 over or will it max out at 3.990?
the 90-94 4.0 ohv have been said to safely hold a 4.00 bore.. but not any blocks after those
It's for sure out of spec. I don't think it's a good idea without sleeving the block.
Find a machine shop which regularly builds the SOHC 4.0, and ask them if they ever sonic tested a block. The accurate way to over bore any block past the accepted limit, is to sonic check it.
Some blocks are known to be too thin to push the limit, like the 351 Cleveland. Those are no problem to go .020 over, but .030 is a risk, and past that is not smart. With a 429/460 block, you can bore those .080 without checking. With sonic testing, some of those can go as far as .160" over. That's a 4.52" bore compared to the stock 4.36" bore.
If the 4.0 block is that close to a 4.00" bore, I'd look into that. The available pistons for 4.00" is countless, including the light weight parts used in any small block kits.
If the stock crank is as good as almost all other Ford cranks, strength is not an issue. Ford stock cranks won in Pro Stock for years for Bob Glidden and the 351C. Those were not forged cranks, just typical Ford nodular iron cranks. Chevy has forever had weak plain cranks(most models), and only their "forged" crank models are worthy to race with. Obviously their later model parts have finally improved, they even use titanium in some LS engines.
If you are serious about SOHC power, contact Woody at Ford Strokers. He knows as much as anyone about aftermarket cranks/pistons/rods for small block Fords. If the bore size is that close, he may be able to quickly point you to rods and pistons which would be usable in the 4.0 engine. He needs to know the block deck height, stroke and bore sizes, and crank journal width at least.
A good stroker engine is just a wise combination of available parts that fit and lower the reciprocating weight, while displacing more volume.
I wouldn't race a stock weight reciprocating assembly if I had the choice of the wonderful light weight aftermarket parts. You would be amazed at how heavy stock pistons are, and stock rods etc.
Do not hold on so tight to the stock parts, if there's something available that's better, get it. Regards,
Don't think anyone has tried it. To sonic a block is to measure the wall thickness of the cylinders.
"Sonic and Pressure Testing - It doesn't make sense to do machine work on a block that may not even be usable. That's why it's wise to sonic test the block before much effort is put into it. Sonic testing can tell you the thickness of the cylinder walls quickly and easily. Even on a new block, this is important because core shift can cause one side of a cylinder wall to be too thin. Engine builder Peter Guild of PME Engines says he likes to see the cylinder wall thickness at least 0.275 inch. A sonic tester is also capable of catching a block that's just too far gone to be rebuilt again."
Money money money...That's all it takes. The rest is just doing it.
Yes, and not all shops can have sonic testing done.
Hunt around and see if others have worked on the 4.0 blocks to push them to 4.00" bore. The piston prices are way cheaper if you can use a common part, plus the aftermarket parts can weigh a ton less. You can buy a whole 347 reciprocating assembly for $750 or less. Just think of what the various stock type SOHC parts choices cost, and those are heavy and stock displacement parts.
I don't have a need to build a 4.0 myself, but I appreciate the interests of others who need to build them. Spend some time to investigate the chances of using aftermarket parts from other engines to make a much better assembly.
I've spent many hours researching this. The first post has what I found to be the best options. It's not cut and dry but there is potential. I still can't dedicate money towards this but hopefully soon. Stroking is good but you can blow this motor apart with high flowing heads, cams, and a turbo. Somewhere near 500 HP is where the other built motors have failed. Keep in mind they all were using stock rods, which is why I spent so much time on the rods.
Something EXTREMELY embarrassing - Having a mid-mounted turbo and the turbo oil pump stops when pulling into a gas station. Thought it was just a fluke, pulled out and got on it, and all I can say is those diesel smoking trucks have nothing on me. Quickly pulled over and started troubleshooting. It turned out to be a connection had corroded enough to lose contact. Murphey's law says this has to happen when pulling into a gas station full of people and not when you've drove the thing many times down country roads.
I can't tell you how tired I am of cleaning oil out of the air tract.