410Fortune - 96 5.0L XLT refurbish (making 1 great Ex from 2) | Page 21 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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410Fortune - 96 5.0L XLT refurbish (making 1 great Ex from 2)

Okay here we go 09/13/05

In march of 05 I rolled my new to me 96 5.0L AWD 86K miles, just after driving it back to CO from OR and putting $1000 into it. You see I bought this truck from my brother with 86K miles on the clock, it would not pass emissions for him and he drove it into the ground. This was the same explorer he bought new when I got the BII from him for $500 12 something years ago.
Well I payed him $500 for the green Explorer and $1000 later (shocks, tune up, 02 sensors, etc) it was in primo condition. Then I rolled it in an ice storm...
RIP 96 EB:
2893expldr-med.jpg

exafter.jpg


So in April my buddy Brett found this great deal here in town for a 96 XLT 5.0L AWD, $900 is what I paid, it has front end damage and air bags deployed, picked it up from a fellow board member:
2893drives.jpg



After the wreck the owner put in a new radiator and battery so it could be driven.
The truck has sat since April of this year, untouched, until this morning.
I have been preparing my new garage to accept my new project, and well she's ready, so today is the day I am driving this truck home.
To my disbelief this truck had no problem and started right up after sitting since April!

Here are some "before" shots:
Font end damage, sagging T bars, new rad:
beforework1.jpg

No airbags, interior is in great shape! (just needs TLC):
interiorbefore1.jpg

Rear:
rear.jpg

It has some "issues". Like steering extension is rubbing the manifold (3" body lift), no dipstick:
dipstickmissing.jpg

No fan, No ac condensor, and no trans cooler:
nofan.jpg


This is a 1996 5.0L AWD XLT with 151K miles on the clock.
Truck is loaded with sunroof, leather, tint, etc.
Previous owner installed 3" body lift and 33" tires.
Alot of things have been "rigged" but it runs and drives fine!

I will be completely removing the front clip, everything except the frame and inner fenders will be cut out. The entire drivetrain will be pulled (too many miles), the entire front end will be fixed, new bushings, bearings, new steering rack, torsio bar twist, shocks, brakes, etc.

the body lift will be fixed and or reduced to 1-2". the rear bumper will be re-located.

The drivetrain from my green 96 will be installed into this truck, along with alot of other "donor" parts.

The front clip will then be replaced using factory metal replacements, welding in new rad support, and then prepped for paint.

truck needs new windshield, airbags, and alot of TLC.


My long term plans for this truck include: "long travel" 4x4 IFS suspension lift (dixon bro's Camburg, etc). Stereo, tow package, SOA, low range T case, and custom everything else.
This is my "other" baby, and in keeping with tradition she will have the heart of my brothers old truck, just like the BII was his and run into the ground, so was "part" of this one.

Still no car payment after 12+ years.
 



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Okay next project almost complete:

GPS, MP3, OBD-II computer -

I have had a garmin Ique 3600 hand held GPS for a few years now, very handy for mapping road trips, 4x4ing, etc. Also provides altitude and very accurate speedometer. Basically this is a palm pilot with a built in GPS antennea and software. It came with a car kit but since I use it in two diff trucks and loke to take it with me when I travel I have kept it mobile instead of fiberglassing it into a custom console piece like I really want to

Here is the install in my Explorer:
gps1.jpg


just the cradle and power wires installed:
gps1b.jpg


cradle out of truck, just the mount base and wiring plug are left in place:
gps2.jpg

Close up:
gps3.jpg


Behind the scenes, power inverter circuit board, fuse installed into console, 100% remove-able:
gps4.jpg

This is also where the speaker and power switch will mount, the power switch is so when I get out of the car I dont have to remove the unit from the cradle for it to go into sleep mode (blank screen, stop playing songs, etc)

The speaker is for the voice command navigation system :) she talks to you like, "Left in 100 feet", the speaker is better then coming through the stereo, although it can do both. The speaker is a small 1.5" round sucker and I am going to stealth install it on the d side of the console piece, using a small piece of grill to hide it

I tapped into the 12v accessory port for power using quick disconnects:
gps5.jpg

everything is soldered into the factory harness

gps6.jpg


with a 1 gig memory card this sucker makes an awesome MP3 player as well. It interfaces with my stereo through the Kenwoods AUX rca inputs via 1/8" headphone port on palm pilot

The little gold ended wire you see pulls out from behind the console, this is the lead to the gps antennea mounted up under my windshield. This setup makes it real easy for the passenger to grab the palm ad bring it up to them for a closer look when trying to read directions.


I mounted this sucker so it can easily be removed, this was ALOT of work! and I am still not done, am adding a power switch and a small speaker this week. As soon as $$$ permits I am going to get the Autotap OBD-II software that will allow me to use my palm as my OBD-II scanner and vehicle gages.
 



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Next project...MP3 hard drive

Okay about 4 years ago I got a Kenwood Music Keg for the BII for christmas.
Well since the Expo is my daily now I wanted to move it from truck to truck.

The Music Keg is a portable MP3 hard drive with a cradle for your computer and a mount for your car. It installs just like a CD changer and if you have a Kenwood head unit it will control the music keg from the deck, display the file names, folders, even announce the name of the song.

013002a6.jpg


My version has a 10 gig memory cartridge (hard drive) but you can buy up to a 90 gig cartridge these days.

www.Phatnoise.com

So normal installation is very simple, it just has one cable from the head unit to the Music Keg, it is designed to be mounted in the trunk just like a CD changer.
Well I update my MP3 collection alot, sometimes daily. I also use the 10 gig cartridge to transfer files from home to work or to a friends house, so I am reaching for the cartridge quite a bit. Instead of having to go to the hatch every time I want to take the cartridge I would rather have it within the drivers reach. Well Ford put the kleenex dispenser in the perfect spot and size for this cartridge to fit...........

It was quite a challenge, you see the Music Keg box itself is too big to fit in the center console. So I took it apart.
I mounted the internals on my own steel bracket, basically there is a circuit board brain, a ribbon connector to another circuit board which is mounted with a plastic cartrige "slider"

I will let the pictures tell the rest of the story

Keg shell and mounting plate with motherboard and guts removed:

kegshell.jpg


What I built instead

kegbuild.jpg

kegbuild1.jpg

kegbuild2.jpg

kegbuild3.jpg


with cartridge installed
kegbuildcart.jpg


See all the extra cable for trunk mounting? Must be 12 meters wrapped up in that bundle
kegmount2.jpg

kegmount3.jpg

kegdone.jpg

kegdone2.jpg


kegdone1.jpg


I have a few hours in this project but its 90% done now

I need to build two shrouds to protect the unit inside the console, they will be masonite convered in black material
I also need to drill two holes for the LED status lights, they will come through the console next to the kleenex slot. Two pieces of rubber or some small brushes will help seal the gap when the cartridge is in or out of the kleenex slot.

Custom audio install baby
 












Ahaaa
Now I understand.
That is very slick.
A great use for worthless space.

I wasn't sure if he was going to cut the kleenex slot horizontal or what?

Looks sweet Jamie. perfect spot. Just doing spill any drinks down in there for sure now!! :D
 












Okay so the E-303 cam in my truck is causing some idle issues, it idles fine and smooth until I turn on my heater or AC hahaha
the additional load of the vacuum operated HVAC system is just enough to drop my engine to a rough stumbling idle It never dies its just kind of interesting to have the lights dim at a light and the auto trans to surge when in slow traffic. :)
I have a couple of options to fix this including a computer tune I believe to compensate, but my question right now is:
does anyone have any experience with an electric or belt driven vacuum pumps to help create/add/regulate manifold vacuum on a modified engine? Is it possible without a belt driven vacuum pump, using electric?


http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+314448&D=314448
 






Idle issues.:thumbdwn:
And if you bump the idle up a bit, it hangs huh?

Vacuum pump? I thought that was for racing-dry sump type oiling?
I have never seen this application
 






Oh great. Idling issues. Something to look forward to with my cam. I think a computer tune would be the best option. Besides, you will be able to squeeze some more hp out of the engine.

I know nothing about the vacuum pumps though.
 












I just read this thread in its entirety for the first time and all I can say is, WOW!
 






Well, I know from experience on my buddies 1987 4-Runner that the bumped up idle should solve it. For his 4-Cylinder, as soon as the A/C cycles on, the idle jumps up about 200 or so RPM's.

This should be simple to achieve with a custom burned chip as when running diagnostics, the computer can up the idle to about 2000 or 2500 rpm via the IAC. 200 - 300 RPM higher idle with the A/C or Heater on should be more then enough to compensate.

Also, it might be advantageous to raise the idle slightly across the board, as with such low vacuum, that also means at idle you have less braking power.
 






oh dont freak out the idle is ust a bit low, I will try to bump it up with the throttle body screw, obvisouly if it was that annoying I would have done it a while ago.

The E cam will give you a lopey idle, and IMO thats a good thing
I will try to adjust my idle up to 800-1000 rpm for now and get the computer tune soon enough

Dont let the lopey idle and low vaccum issues I am having sway you from doing the E cam, it rocks compared to stock, especialy above 3500 RPM
passing on the highway = :) bit time compared to a stock 5.0l Ex, its no slouch off the line either
 






oh dont freak out the idle is ust a bit low, I will try to bump it up with the throttle body screw, obvisouly if it was that annoying I would have done it a while ago.

The E cam will give you a lopey idle, and IMO thats a good thing
I will try to adjust my idle up to 800-1000 rpm for now and get the computer tune soon enough

Dont let the lopey idle and low vaccum issues I am having sway you from doing the E cam, it rocks compared to stock, especialy above 3500 RPM
passing on the highway = :) bit time compared to a stock 5.0l Ex, its no slouch off the line either

Ok sweet. I installed a cam from comp cams (which will remain unnamed for now :) ) and I hope the computer can tolerate it as well as it tolerates the e-cam. It was recommended by one of their cam techs, so I think it will be pretty sweet.
 






the computer can tollerate ALOT

Take a look at JTsmiths mounty, with a 347 and X cam.....stock PCM
 






Dang, I didn't know Jon was running a stock PCM. In that case I have no more worries.
 






Jamie, I have heard of a vacuum pump(electric) in a stock car, but it's been many years, I don't remember what it was. You should be able to search and find one throught the internet.

BTW, do you have the later 90's model alternator? The current at idle is much better in the later type, my 91 XLT died two years ago, and the 99 OHV model alternator I swapped in made 14.5 volts with all accessories on.

Eric won't have any idling issues with his mild cam, lower duration intake lobes. Mustangs with EECIV's had awful idling issues with most all performance cams. I've yet to do anything with my OBDII PCM, but I plan to praise it a bunch next year. Regards,
 






Well, I just spent the last umpteen hours reading this thread! I am impressed beyond words. I applaud your tenacity and knowledge of the 5.0 X's. I have been running an E303 with 1.7:1 rockers under stock valve covers since my truck had about 500 miles on it. My biggest issue has been with the idle. I messed around trying to solve it for about 2 years with all sorts of things, including chips and adjusting the throttle stop. I solved it one day after nosing around on a Mustang site and finding out about a valve assembly that sandwiches under the Idle Air Bypass Valve that Ford installed on some trucks. I went to the dealer and started to explain what I was looking for. About half way through my explanation the parts guy held up his index finger, turned around and went in the back. When he cane out he threw a kit on the counter and said "here's what you want".

It was a slap yourself on the forehead and say "Doh" moment! I took it home, installed and adjusted it, and haven't had a problem since. I don't have the part number handy, but I do have it in my records somewhere, I'll try to look it up later.
 






CDW: My alternator is a 135 amp unit from Ford with 88K miles on it, it works great, the lights only dim a bit when the idle drops to nothing and then bumps itself back up, happens very rarely.

tktrain: Are there advantages to running 1.7 rollers with the e cam? Ford recommends 1.6 ratio with this cam? How did you clear the stock valve covers? Air hammer? :)
I will have to locate that IAC adjustable plate and give that a shot

How is this sucker adjustable?
54_1.jpg
 



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Oh boy
Is dreamr using the one SVO sent me, then I sent him?

If you look close at the mickey mouse ear area--there is a setscrew that penetrates into the air flow.
 






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