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4th Gen Auto 5R55 to Manual M5OD - progress (not a How-to)

Discussion in 'Modified 2006 - 2010 Explorers' started by engineeering, July 16, 2014.

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    1. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      calibration constants

      I'm glad you figured it out. You were too fast for me to respond. Did your strategy have the same calibration constants I mentioned?
       
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    3. engineeering

      engineeering Active Member

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      It sure did! THANKS!!

      I was a bit confused because mine had the same prompt as yours under the "Trans Auto Switch" saying that I need to change the "trans_load_switch" and "trans_type" to zero. But when searching for them... there was only "trans load switch" and when I clicked on it ... it's description said "trans load switch AND trans type" (but only entitled trans load switch). I was a bit confused when I first couldn't find the other one... but I'm assuming I'm good with that set to zero. :)

      Dang.. I love Advantage III. Will probably pick you brain more once I supercharge it. Planning to do it over christmas if all goes well. Afterall... there some pretty good sales right now with Black Friday. Moddbox coupon code "blackfriday" there's 10% off :)
       
    4. engineeering

      engineeering Active Member

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    5. engineeering

      engineeering Active Member

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    6. engineeering

      engineeering Active Member

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      ... got the tcase in the shop now. Just working through the diagrams and seeing if it's gonna work. It's nice to physically have it to confirm colours etc.
       
    7. 08Exploder

      08Exploder Active Member

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      The electronic function of it will work perfect it's just if it will bolt up to your transmission or not? It's the same transfer case as the one you had the difference between this one is that in 1997 it had the front and rear sensors for slip cause it didn't use abs for 4wd function and it had the hole for the speed sensor in 1998 they did away with the speed sensor and used the abs for speed they kept the 2 sensors though for slip detection on front and rear wheels and then they did away with the sensors for the 4th gen explorer because the advance trac uses the abs speed to determine if the vehicle needs 4x4 and to apply the brake to a givin side since all 4th gen explorers are open diffs. You will be fine I'm worried about the bolt pattern if it will bolt up to it let me know how it goes can't wait to see the results

      Tom
       
    8. 08Exploder

      08Exploder Active Member

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    9. engineeering

      engineeering Active Member

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      Many thanks Tom.

      See below picture for wiring guide for the 1999-01 Explorer AWD tcase installation!!! 06 explorer 4x4 module on the left... 99-01 tcase plug wiring on the right. - (this didn't end up working in later tests...)

      [​IMG]

      The T-case dimensions look the same as mine at first glance (the ranger one that is currently installed). Here is the solution. I colour coated them for simplicity. Gonna finish this up one of these evenings or Saturday Morning. Got my new cup holders in the mail too!!




      ... time to eat sushi and kick back. That's me in the photo above clinking my beer to Tom.
       
      Last edited: January 16, 2016
    10. 08Exploder

      08Exploder Active Member

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      I don't think color coded helped lol but I do know you need only 8 wires 2 for the motor 1 for the clutch and 5 for the sensor now on the 97 you will notice 1-5 and on 06 1-4 with sens return one of the 1-5 from the 97 is the sens return it's either the 1 or 5 looking at both diagrams that will be the guessing game but the rest is straight foward the green sens return you highlighted green and crossed out and un crossed out is for the speed sensor return do not use that.


      Tom
       
    11. engineeering

      engineeering Active Member

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      ...quick update. Had some christmas parties and lots of work to do so I got a bit side tracked. I'm also off to Mexico Wed so I had to tear into it tonight before I go :)

      Got the Ranger tcase out. Here are some pics to compare. The Explorer transfer case is about 1/4" longer in total... should be able to be taken up by the travel in my rear shaft. if not... will need to pay again for a 1/4" shortening. Only other problem is that the rear output flange for the axle shaft is a different size. It appears it is removable so I will swap the two output flanges if possible. I will have a look at the tcase rebuild blog on this forum... I remember seeing one stripped down and that should tell me if I can swap the rear flanges :) Here's some pics.

      Output flanges (01 AWD Ex - Top of Photo, 02-11 Ranger - Bottom of Photo):
      [​IMG]

      Mating flange to Transmission (01 AWD Ex - Bottom of Photo, 02-11 Ranger - Top of Photo):
      [​IMG]

      Plan view of both tcases (01 AWD Ex - Right of Photo, 02-11 Ranger - Leftof Photo):
      [​IMG]
       
    12. engineeering

      engineeering Active Member

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      Hi Tom. Thanks for the quote above. That was exactly what I was thinking. But after looking closer... I couldnt figure out why the 06 EX had 9 wires (not 8)?. As it turns out... if you look at the diagram again... there is a clutch wire and a clutch position wire (the violet/orange wire). This is the clutch POS RTN wire... that's the one I highlighted green and drew an arrow to (Note that in my excitement when I figured it out... I forgot to update the other page I scanned on the left which should not show the clutch position wire from the 06 ex go to "blk/ground", rather, it should go to Gry/Red on the 01 ex tcase :)

      Violet/Orange (on 06 EX) ====> (goes to) ====> Grey/Red (on 01 EX tcase)

      If I'm right (could still be wrong. LOL), I believe the speed sensor return wire is the other grey/red wire. There are actually 2 grey/red signal wires coming from the 01 EX tcase (1 from clutch... the other from the obsolette speed sensor).


      on another note.... I did ultimately loose my speedo. Turns out the ABS system does operate my speed... however,... the abs system also reads the output speed sensor from the original auto transmission. For this reason... I can ether use my new tcase output speed sensor (the extra grey/red wire) OR the output speed sensor in my new MO5D-h1 transmisison. Either way... I will just need to adjust my tune depending on how many holes the shaft sensor reads (the stock Auto Trans speed sensor reads 24 on the tune... I've read that the Mo5D has 12... If I don't change it... my truck will read double the speed)

      Anyways... I'll wire it up tomorrow or when I get back from Mexico. We'll see if she works :)
       
    13. engineeering

      engineeering Active Member

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      I picked up a higher wattage resistor with less error. Works great for tricking the computer that it is in neutral to operate the tcase.

      The pick below shows the resistor... I also grabbed a clutch switch off a Ranger so I can wire it to engage the resistor when my clutch is in.... this way my truck will think it is in neutral whenever I engage my clutch... therefore my 4x4 shift motor buttons will only work if I have my clutch in. I really don't want to bump the 4x4lo button when on the highway... that is very easy to do with my stickshift knob about the same height as the 4x4 buttons!!!

      [​IMG]




      ...totally unrelated ... but when I grabbed the clutch switch, I couldn't help but notice that it was off one of the rare Canadian 2011 Rangers. It was the FX4 with a nice limited slip rear solid beam diff and DISK BRAKES! If I still had a ranger... I'd be plucking that sh** for sure.
      [​IMG]
       
    14. engineeering

      engineeering Active Member

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      Found a few pics on my phone backup that I did not loose when my SDchip bit the dust. Bit old now but whatever... here are two picks of my stock transmission mount after I welded a 1.25" riser and drilled out new holes on my cross support. If you do this swap... you'll have to do something like this to bolt everything together.

      [​IMG]


      My welding job. hahaha. Don't judge. Clearly I don't get much practice. However, regardless of having the current's set wrong... I got some good penetration. you have to do this really fast and quench it or else you will melt your the rubber in the mount!
      [​IMG]
       
    15. engineeering

      engineeering Active Member

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      Ok. Doing some more tuning now... got the hang of it pretty good now.

      Unfortunately it turns out that my truck goes into some kind of limp mode. I have confirmed now that it is NOT a rev limiter from neutral or reverse. I need to disable the fault checks for my auto transmission.

      Just like what @2000StreetRod said, I need to also change the "trans_type". Turns out my truck has no trans_type. I guess this pcm was never used with a manual? It is just not setup to disable it with one main switch... so I'm trying to zero all the test switches. I am totally out of my league right now. I ordered Don Lasota's SCT manual and it has been helpful. Unfortunately not too much in there regarding "deleting" you auto trans however.

      Here's a pick of some of my Auto Trans options that I need to delete. If anyone has some tips here that would be amazing :)

      [​IMG]



      edit: the blue ones with "0" value I changed to 0 to try to delete. Not sure if it will just screw it up though.
       
    16. engineeering

      engineeering Active Member

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      Thought I'd quote this post to bring it closer to my last question. You can see in StreetRod's pic that there are 3 main switches (mentioned in the notes) that need to be set to 0. Unfortunately I do not have the "trans_type" option. so I might have to manually mess with all the parameters. I have a long list of codes popping up (I'm putting electrical tape on them for now... hahahah) and can post them up if needed.
       
    17. engineeering

      engineeering Active Member

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      Here are my current codes:

      P061C - powertrain
      P0743 - torque converter clutch
      P0750 - Shift solenoid A
      P0755 - powertrain
      P0760 - Shift solenoid B
      P0600 - Serial Comm Link
      P0740 - Torque Converter Clutch Circuit
      P0748 - Powertrain Pressure Cont. A Elect.
      P0753 - Shift solenoid A
      P0758 - Shift solenoid B
      P0763 - Shift solenoid C
      P0768 - Shift solenoid D
      P0778 - Pressure Control Solenoid B Elect.
      P0798 - Pressure Control Solenoid C Elect.
      P0960 - Powertrain
      P0964 - Powertrain
      P0968 - Powertrain
      P1260 - Powertrain Theft Detected - Engine Disabled*
      C1805 - Chassis (this one sounds unrelated)

      *note that my engine is not disabled regardless of the P1260.

      Truck actually runs really nice. LOL. Just get an RPM limiter around 3000-3500 depending on the gear. I think it is actually some kind of limp mode cause all my rev limiters have been edited already.
       
    18. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      datalog gear pids

      Did you use the "Find Item" capability to search for "Trans type"? Mine was under "system switches" instead of "Auto Trans Switches".

      The PCM has a neutral/park rev limiter that is usually around 3,000 rpm. I suggest that you datalog pids associated with gear selected to determine if your PCM "thinks" the transmission is in neutral/park. If you can't fool the PCM into "thinking" you're in neutral then you can change the neutral rev limit.
      RevLimit.jpg
       
    19. engineeering

      engineeering Active Member

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      Sure did. My system does not have that option. I also have the same note (in blue text within the Advantage III description referencing "trans_type"... does not exist).

      I did some reading on the 06 Auto transmission (a good writeup from Don Lasota @ Lasota Racing)... so I have some idea of what the parameters are now. But it does not explain them all. Might have to be some trial and error here :/
       
    20. 08Exploder

      08Exploder Active Member

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      Ok lol so not like you want another t case and good luck finding a 1997 t case cause it's only 1 year but it had the external speedo sensor which was a motor with a gear on the end of it with changeable colored gears you could use that for a speedo and as far as the error codes if you made a fake 5r55 by taking all the standard resistor values for the solinode block and all the sensors you prob will get rid of majority of the codes and get out of limp mode or another option is to locate a pcm from a ranger and some how wire it in to yours but that would be very time consuming and need a lot of patience. That's my idea and as far as the clutch return that's going to need a resistor my gues but the question is does it have to be a variable resistor when engaged etc! But looks like that races will work but if you got a 1997 one it have the speedo hole on the back for the speedo gear but good luck finding a 1997 one lol

      Tom
       
    21. 08Exploder

      08Exploder Active Member

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      Also just for kicks to fully rule out its not the rev limiter! Change the current gear to first gear instead of being in park or neutral! Cause if it changes than you know it's the rev limits of not then something else.

      Tom
       
    22. engineeering

      engineeering Active Member

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      Good point. I thought of doing this then forgot. I will temporarily wire it up that way and see what happens :)
       
    23. engineeering

      engineeering Active Member

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      Ok.. back from Mexico... and a PILE of work to catch up on. So will be doing this over the next week or so.

      Random post... I saw lots of these 4 door Rangers and I think I really want one now but the cabs are smaller than I thought (only like 8-10" longer than an extended cab I bet). There's a picture of me having an espresso with another nice little 4.0L Ford product :)

      [​IMG]
       
    24. willied

      willied Well-Known Member

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      Sweet! I always wished we had the 4-door Ranger here...unfortunately Ford didn't want to invest in making it meet safety regulations here.
       
    25. engineeering

      engineeering Active Member

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      They started selling them in Mexico in 2001 in the 4.0L (if I remember correctly). that means they were built in 2000. As of late 2015... they are 15 years old and you can import them to Canada/USA. :) After shipping/brokerage/duty... they aren't that cheap though.
       
    26. willied

      willied Well-Known Member

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      Canada is 15 years; the U.S. is 25, unfortunately.
       

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