5R55E Transmission No Drive or Reverse but 1 and 2 Work | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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5R55E Transmission No Drive or Reverse but 1 and 2 Work

puzzaa

Active Member
Joined
October 9, 2016
Messages
54
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City, State
Maryland
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Explorer
Hey guys it’s been a while!
The explorer has been running great but the other day as I pulled out of the driveway the truck just disengaged. It was either shifting from second to third or third to fourth.

Anyway I pulled to the side but the truck just revs in drive and reverse and does not move
I put it into manual 1 or 2 and she drives fine. And after that the truck will crawl if I put it into drive or reverse and rev It higher than normal (like it’s there but slipping a lot). While driving if I shift from 2 to drive it still doesn’t engage. So I’m stuck going a max of 45-50 in second. I have not tried it with the OD off.

Funny thing is I just had the tranny rebuilt a couple years ago (not that many miles) but the transmission shop that I took it to went out of business to honor their “Warranty” (go figure)

I took it to my mechanic and he said all of the solenoids and sensors are functioning fine but he supposedly opened it up and smelled something burned up (but refused to touch it because he doesn’t specialize in trannys). His solution? Buy a whole new transmission and he will install it.

Something’s a little fishy about this because when I took it home today there was still fluid in it ( I thought to take a look inside, the pan has to be taken out, as well as the fluid) unless my mechanic put in new fluid. And also the pan is covered in clean engine oil?!? (Mines slightly dirty so not leaking from the engine). He also pulled codes from it but constantly changed the subject everytime I asked what the code was.

Anyway I’ve been looking around and I just wanted your opinions on it. I saw a similar thread on here and if it’s the OD sprag then I’ll probably end up getting a used transmission and putting it in. But I also read about the valve body being cracked or the gasket being blown? That’s a job I can do so I was just wondering. I don’t really want to rebuild it again or pay thousands to have someone do it. Thanks guys!
Also it’s a 2000 Explorer XLT 4X4 with the V6 4.0 SOHC and the 5r55e transmission
 



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Anyone have anything? Really need to figure this out soon. Thanks
 






You may have a stuck revers modulator or forward modulator valve. If somethings smells burned the you may have damaged clutch packs allready.
 






I checked the VB, no cracks. Gasket is fine. Checked solenoids and they measured around 24 ohms for the shift and clutch and 9 ohms for TCC and 4 Ohms for EPC. Any idea where the valves are you mentioned for the forward and reverse modulator in relation to the valve body? Also how to fix? Thanks
 






Fluid didn't smell burnt either. And i have been searching the internet and I have no idea how to clear a stuck valve! the only thing I can think of is the resistance on all the solenoids is lower than usual, but still in the range. it Could be a stuck valve I will try to figure it out tomorrow. If not, I guess the tranny is coming out!
 






Attempted to take apart the valve body. I got a lot of the valves out and they moved freely but some were completely stuck. Aren’t they supposed to be so smooth that if you turn the vb on it’s side they should slide out? Because some of them did while others did not. I needed to use a small flathead screwdriver in the little channels to move it towards the exit. And some of them I couldn’t get leverage on inside of the channels so they refused to come out. Should I be persistant in trying to get these to slide? I know some of them aren’t meant to come out (they would get stuck at the exit ? ) but I can’t get them to move at all. Will update on which ones these are when I get home.
 






The sprag in the very back of the tranny may be going. It has a nylon cage that sometimes melts and makes it difficult or impossible to catch and hold onto the shaft. It needs to hold in order for 1st gear to work. If it is slipping, you can start moving the vehicle with the selector in '2'. Then when it reaches 30 mph put it in 'OD' or 'D' and it is good until you stop and it downshifts to first again. The sprag is still the problem. I bought an aerostar where the previous owner tried to rock it out of a snow bank shifting D to R to D to R to D... Totally melted the sprag cage. Left a heat score on the back of the main transmission case where the sprag sits. Anyway, I had to extract and rebuild. The good news was that there weren't any metal bits contaminating the inner working of the tranny; it was an easy and clean rebuild. I could have gotten away with just replacing the sprag and putting it all back together. I wouldn't advise that: while you have it all apart since the sprag is the deepest component in the whole unit), replace all the O-rings while you're there. Sometimes the friction plates in the clutches are good as new, too. I would leave them be if there is no metal to metal contact.
 






I can't remember but I'm pretty sure shifting from manual 2 to D still didn't engage. I tried it with the overdrive on and if i recall correctly it still felt like it was in neutral when I went into D
 






If it is slipping, you can start moving the vehicle with the selector in '2'. Then when it reaches 30 mph put it in 'OD' or 'D' and it is good until you stop and it downshifts to first again. The sprag is still the problem.

So the problem is that drive doesnt engage at all regardless if I manually shift through the gears. 1 and 2 are fine but drive is still a complete loss if I shift from 2 to D. Would that still be the sprag you mentioned?
 






More likely a valve body issue.
 






Good! That leads me to my next question. What valve should I look at that would cause me to lose drive and reverse. Manual 1 and 2 overrides this valve so what could it be ?
 






Started tearing down the valve body again. Looked at the forward control valve and it seems to glide freely just won’t come out. Also the second rev mod valve is stuck completely in there. I removed the L shaped keeper but it still doesn’t move. I can push it and feel a little bit of springiness but it won’t move either way

50923C4E-07E6-405E-84B4-49063446511F.jpeg
 






Any other spots to check based on that diagram?

Also looking under the car again what is this clip looking metal piece? I can push it up or down but I’m not sure what it’s for?

0848A687-F89E-4975-AE64-74F8592820CB.jpeg
 






That looks like the end of a dipstick
 






Oh I’m dumb :D thanks
Still the issue with the one valve that won’t move I really hope that’s the problem. Any input?
 






When I did mine I sprayed them with penetrating oil and worked them in and out some of them are a pain to get in and out. I also installed a transgo shift correction kit
Edit: the two you shaded I had the hardest time with.
 






Thanks Nathan, for the reverse modulator that I shaded, it moved for you? Mine won’t move at all. And what tools did you use to get it out? and it comes out of the same hole as the first reverse modulator? (I removed the keeper that holds it in but I can’t get it to move!) Thanks again
 






I sprayed it with liquid wrench and used dental pics from harbor freight and a small screw driver to push it in its bore. You may have to lay the body on its side and tap the body where the valve is with a soft hammer to get it to free up. Be sure you got all of the retainers out.
 






Did you push the screwdriver through the side with the “KD control” valve? It looks like they are the same bore but I’m not sure. I’ll try tapping it with a mallet. And as far as I see there is only one retainer holding that valve in? Thanks!
 



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No there were some slots in the valves bore on the not flat side I used. It appears the valve is two pieces with two retainers the staple looking one for the end plug and the L retainer for the other.
 






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