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5R55W Solenoid Block Replacement

OK so we just did it and... IT FIXED ALL my issues with shifting! Thing runs buttery smooth now.

Couple things though that had my shaking my head.

I bought the Explorer at 126,x.. miles and the previous owner informed me that the transmission had gone out at 117,x... Asked if he had any paperwork but he said unfortunately no. I never really knew if it was rebuilt or not, until today.

EVERY SINGLE ONE of the Torx bolts in the Solenoid pack was finger tight. No, I'm not joking. I took my T-30 socket with NO extension and NO ratchet, just the T-30 socket and removed ALL of the bolts.

Fast forward to the end of of the project and we go to clean the pan out, TWO bolts in the bottom of the pan stuck to the trash magnet. I'm being 100% serious.

I found where they both went (valve body bolts) and replaced them. Then I took my torque wrench and re-checked ALL of the valve body bolts, I would say half of them were finger tight. Got them all back to 89 in-lb.

Sigh...

I filled the trans wrong though. I started it, let it run and ran it threw the gears then SHUT IT OFF and added two more quarts right. Then 2 1/2 drained back out!

I got to thinking about it after the fact and checked this thread again and yep, I was suppose to add those last quarts with it running. I'm guessing so the pump is picking fluid up as your filling it and not draining it all back to the pan?

Guess we re-add the 2 1/2 quarts with it running today and see how much drains back.

It still ran great for the 5 miles I drove it, no issues what so ever.
 



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Never forget the basics!

My problem with my 2000 Explorer Sport started with the OD light flashing. We were working it pretty hard in the mountains and we came straight home. The trans worked just like it was supposed to. Next day, light was off and stayed off. A week later same thing happened, but when we got to town there was a very loud clunk going from reverse to drive. It would also clunk upon the downshift from 2 to 1. The mechanic thought for sure it was the transfer case. He got a used one and installed it. It did the exact same thing. He left it in and did not charge me. He then dropped the pan but only after he dropped the exhaust system so he could get the pan out. He serviced the trans and filter, added some Lucas trans conditioner. Still had clunk. He apologized and charged me for the trans service. My wife drove it home yesterday and said it was still doing it.

I did a lot more research and thought the solenoid pack might be the problem. I checked two related fuses and both were fine.

Today I found this 8 page thread. (For some reason I didn't find it before.) Anyway, someone posted a thread that step by step they did everything to the transmission and STILL had the same problems. He disconnected the battery for 10 minutes. He reconnected the battery and problem solved!!!! I did that and I just got back from an hour long test drive, in and out of 4 wheel drive, backwards, forwards, passing, no hint of ANY problem.

Keep this in your head and THANK YOU!
 






*Update* to my problem.

We just topped off the trans with it running and sure enough, it held almost 3 more quarts. It runs even smoother now and I thought it was smooth before.

Thanks for this thread!
 






Update to mine.

After two full wonderful clunk free days, it returned...sporadically. Contacted the nearest Ford dealer (80 miles one way) and spoke to their tranny guy. Because of what I did and what happened afterwards, he thinks the problem is electronic. It'll be about a week before I can get it there and will update as soon as we know.
 






Update to mine.

After two full wonderful clunk free days, it returned...sporadically. Contacted the nearest Ford dealer (80 miles one way) and spoke to their tranny guy. Because of what I did and what happened afterwards, he thinks the problem is electronic. It'll be about a week before I can get it there and will update as soon as we know.

just clean solenoid pack change filter with new oil and thank me later.
 






just clean solenoid pack change filter with new oil and thank me later.

That's where I am leaning. It gets better a little bit each day of driving. Now does it only when cold and not as loud.


I'm too old and fat to change em out and no one within 50 miles of here could be trusted. So off to the dealer next week.
 






Hope not too little too late

I have found several posts and videos on YouTube about popping the caps off the back of each solenoid and removing the slides(?) and cleaning them. Can that really be as easy as it looks? How do you reattach the caps? One video said "glue them back on." What type of glue can survive Mercon V for another 100k miles?

Had to buy my wife a new car and the '75 scout II pickup I bought to restore is currently being used to house my black widow collection out behind my workshop so any help you can give me on keeping my exploder on the road would be most appreciated.

Man I miss my Bronco!
 












Thanks!

Thanks Brooklyn! I have pondered it for two weeks and watched the same video instructions on how to do it three times, but I needed someone with more sense than me(other than my wife) to tell me not to do it.
 






Great Write-up.

My transmission was shifting rough between gears (when warm) and would have delayed shift into reverse. I replaced my solenoid using your instructions and my '05 Explorer now shifts great. Thanks much for taking the time to post such excellent instructions!
 






I am trying to take a look at the procedure to replace the solenoid pack on my 2002 Ford Explorer but I can not seem to get the pictures to show up. Anyone have this is a PDF format so that I can read through the instructions.. My explorer has the OD light flashing, P0775 code, and service engine light coming on. The only shift issues I can really notice is it seems like its hanging in 1st to long and it will not go into OD(5th gear) Am I thinking correctly at swapping solenoid pack and flushing the tranny to start? Anything else to look at while I am at it... I do hear a slight noise (whining or suction?) in D and N while idling but not in R.... any ideas
 












To do the upgrade to servo bores I should be pulling the tranny correct? Is it worth trying the solenoid block seeing as I have the block already to see if that corrects my issue? Where is the best link to the a step by step for doing the work to the servo bores?
 












Can you replace them with the tranny in the truck of would you still need to pull it? Links to where I can buy parts and a direction to finding a write up to replacing them.. I own a shop in Jackson, TN.. we primarily work on big rigs but I am pretty comfortable working on most anything if I have directions.
 












Because of the noise / no 5th gear.. is this what leads you to believe it could be servos? That looks like an easy enough fix for the time being..
 












Alright, time to dig up this ancient thread (that has already helped me out once)....

So about 4 years ago I had a solenoid issue with my truck, as it would not shift from 1-2 without letting off the gas. I replaced the solenoid with one from 800700tran (which has received some bad feedback from others) but have not had any major issues since. The truck is a 2002 explorer v6 4WD with about 180k miles on the transmission.

Fast forward to Monday and all of a sudden I have no shifting from 2-3 without letting off the gas. Getting codes P0733 and P0745.

I have a replacement solenoid pack, but from reading others issues, it seems that the more likely cause is the intermediate band.

Is it even worth swapping out the solenoid pack, or am I nearly guaranteed that the problem is the band? I don't want to put a $200 solenoid pack and $50 worth of ATF in, only to have to drain it all back out and remove the whole transmission.

Any input or help is greatly appreciated!
 



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