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5spdman's slow and cheap XLT build

Discussion in 'Modified 1991-1994 Explorers' started by 5spdman, March 11, 2014.

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    1. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

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      Caleb!! Just seen your thread as I clicked the new post dealio. LOL!! I gave it a quick once over.

      I had no idea you made those extended arms yourself. I know you told me you had a bunch of last minute work before we went to Moab, but I didn't think you did all that! The rig did great out there.

      So many of us wrenched and wrenched like crazy to make that trip happen, and was worth every minute of it. Was great to meet you, the wife, the rig, and the puppy! You know we will have to do it again!
       
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    3. 5spdman

      5spdman Elite Explorer

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      I don't have the best of pictures....I do have something I drew up of the process though and a pic of the truck now...

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]

      Doesn't look the best I know, but it looks better than it did when I just pumped it in there. That pic kinda help?

      Yeah, when I said work, I meant work! It was great to meet you too Greg! Don't think we'll make it that far next year, but maybe something closer?
       
    4. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

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      Plenty of closer places we can wheel at. :) Your only an 8 hr commute away from me.
      I most likely won't make it back to Moab until 2018-19 myself. That's not a cost friendly trip. lol
       
    5. natenkiki2004

      natenkiki2004 Blue Bomb!

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      Thanks for the info 5spdman. I've got to figure out something for mine and don't really want to replace the glass now (it's cracked so if I have it pulled, I'd want a new one). I've never seen how a windshield attaches or how any of it is setup so that's great info.
       
    6. 5spdman

      5spdman Elite Explorer

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      Don't quote me 100% on the shape of the trim...from what I could see (and from previous experience reattaching a windshield (old work truck, adhesive all let loose, ditched the trim)) I'm pretty sure that's how it's shaped...makes sense to me at least...
       
    7. malohnes

      malohnes Active Member

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      Good job and glad to hear its worked so far. No judging from me...I'm broke as well but sometimes the bandaid fixes are worse than ought right repair.
       
    8. 5spdman

      5spdman Elite Explorer

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      Haven't updated this in a while.....

      Well, no leaks from the windshield to-date, so there's a plus!

      Exhaust was replaced about two months ago from the cats back and everything seemed to be great! About that time, I picked up a new daily driver, a 95 Ford Escort, 2 dr hatch, manual trans, for fairly cheap...has almost tripled the mileage I was getting with the Ex, so that means more money to spend on the Ex, right? Has some stuff going with it that should probably be looked into, but it's not high on my list of priorities...

      Since Edgar has sat now for a little while, I'm starting to notice some things...wouldn't start this morning (Escort had a low tire) and a little tap on the ignition coil got it fired up tonight. While under the hood, I noticed the clutch fluid res was low (was really low last weekend too) so I'm guessing another new slave cylinder is in it's near future....I'm also dealing with fluctuating dash/headlights/voltmeter and high idle RPMs....

      The things we do for the vehicles we love...
       
    9. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

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      Sounds like a bad battery cable, or a bad headlight switch. Both are common in these rigs.
       
    10. 5spdman

      5spdman Elite Explorer

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      Had someone suggest it was a part of the alternator that was the issue with the lights...everything fluctuates every now and then...
       
    11. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

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      That may be true, but, anytime your volt meter starts being erratic, it's usually a bad ground.

      When the headlight switch starts failing, it has an intermittent ground issue. Thus the flickering lights. All the electrical components are always hot on these rigs, and the circuit is completed by ground on/off. Does the volt needle move when accessories are used? Like turning the blower on, or turning on the brake lights for an example.

      Corroded battery cables will mess with the system (including the ALT), and cause the volt meter to move when a draw takes place. I replaced mine on the 94 EX, and split the loom off it. It was corroded the entire length, and I never knew it, when diagnosing a similar issue as yours.

      Just something to think about.
       
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    12. 5spdman

      5spdman Elite Explorer

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      I will for sure keep that in mind...I saw some threads on how to test different sensors and whatnot that I was told may be the issues....anyway to test the wire without just taking it out? I do have probes on my volt tester...
       
    13. natenkiki2004

      natenkiki2004 Blue Bomb!

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      Set volt meter on DC volts 20 scale. Stick one end into the lead part of the negative battery post. Attach the other lead the body of the alternator or some other ground on the engine. If there's voltage there, you have battery cable issues (negative side).

      Remember, voltage is a difference of potential. You'd be reading the difference of the battery voltage and what's getting to the engine ground. This would be the amount of "voltage drop" in a defective/poorly connected cable.
       
    14. 5spdman

      5spdman Elite Explorer

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      gman, the needle moves almost the entire time the truck is running...sometimes a little, sometimes a lot, and every now and then it stays still...

      Thanks for that natenkiki...testing is my downfall when it comes to electrical, but I was sure there'd be a way to test the wire. And just to clarify to ease my mind and make sure I'm doing it right, I need to have the truck on/running I assume?
       
    15. natenkiki2004

      natenkiki2004 Blue Bomb!

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      Doesn't have to be but different conditions will tell you where different voltage drops are.
       
    16. 5spdman

      5spdman Elite Explorer

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      Alright...I'll try to get out and do some testing this weekend, but as it's deer season and the week of shotgun season started Monday and I have YET to make it out to the woods (only two mornings to bow hunt), I will more than likely be hunting all weekend long...I'll let you all know when I get some results! (Hunting or otherwise! :) )
       
    17. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

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      I'm going to say that the cables need replaced. I would also research here about the headlight switch, as you might have two issues happening.

      If you do replace the cables, go with Motorcraft originals. Trust me on this one.
       
    18. 5spdman

      5spdman Elite Explorer

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      Well early diagnosis/report...still didn't inflate the tire on the Escort and it was even lower this morning...truck didn't start again...looked at the battery and the ground connection was loose, bolt wasn't even tightened...wiggled it, tightened it to the post and he fired right up! Tried watching the voltmeter as much as I could, no flickering lights!

      Post clamp still seems a bit loose and it's not in the best shape, so I'll probably switch that out sometime this weekend...thanks guys!
       
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    19. natenkiki2004

      natenkiki2004 Blue Bomb!

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      Are they the original cables? If so, grab a clamp/bolt-on end and that will buy you some time until you get new cables. If they're replaced, buy a proper end that you can solder on.
       
    20. 5spdman

      5spdman Elite Explorer

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      They are the original cables yet.

      When I "redid" my positive cables, I went with a marine post connector with a wing nut, and then crimped, soldered and heat shrunk (w/ adhesive) a copper ring terminal to each positive wire coming to the battery. I'm probably going to go that route again with the negative cables as it was easy, didn't rid myself of much if any of the existing cable and would make pulling the battery a very quick process if I were to need it for trail welding.....that being said, I do not have another battery or means to trail weld, but the possibility would be there and having the wingnut posts would make running it and others in a series very simple...

      I spent more than every daylight hour out in the woods hunting yesterday and today, so there was no time to work on the truck...may swing by the NAPA store tomorrow or sometime this week....who knows when I'll find the time right now to do anything lol
       
    21. FR-425

      FR-425 Used to be a road here. Elite Explorer

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      • Like Like x 3
    22. mr cribb

      mr cribb US Army Retired Elite Explorer

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      I used a two piece cable system when I redid the negative cable on my old explorer. It worked like a champ, and for $17, I couldn't argue because a factory cable was unavailable for days at the tune of $50 or so and I needed it then, not later.

      I did a how to post on it, and it should still be searchable. It's about a two year old post.
       
    23. Rhett

      Rhett Let Them Eat Cake Elite Explorer

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      Hey that is neat. I would probably try to shrink wrap that too.

      Thanks for the heads up on Motorcraft batt cables -- I would have probably gotten some cheapies that didn't quite fit
       
    24. 5spdman

      5spdman Elite Explorer

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      Well, time for some updates!

      I found the electrical gremlin that was causing the truck not to start every now and then...
      [​IMG]

      Cable to the starter somehow melted (yes, melted) and was barely making contact to the terminal....little wire stripping and a new terminal solved the issue.

      Now onto the bigger updates...

      Slave cylinder was going out...had to pump and refill the reservoir every time I wanted to use it, so I made the decision to go ahead and replace it......this started a string of events that I will describe later.

      [​IMG]

      Transmission out, obvious signs of a leaking slave cylinder...no problem; order a new one from NAPA, replace, continue on my way...

      Or so I thought....and this is where I don't have pictures and my non-exsistant skills of story telling come into play...

      I go into NAPA, order a new slave for a 91 Explorer. Guy tells me it'll be in the next day...not a problem, I can wait one more day. Part comes in, and I install it. Had a few small things I wanted to do/fix/replace in the meantime as well, so after I put the trans in, I spent a night or two working on said small projects. Finally, I decide "I don't know why I haven't hooked up the trans yet...the T-case is ready to go, so I'll get on that"....

      Funny how when you mix and match parts from different years of Explorers, you forget little things, like when you put the clutch hose from your 93 onto your 91 clutch master cylinder so you can use the trans from your 93. After thinking I'd replace the hydraulic line to one for a 91 and seeing that a new line from NAPA would be another $80, the decision was made to just get a 93 slave and not worry about removing the master, which I already knew to be a slight pain......que trans removal #2..................

      So I then decide, after also realizing that I'll probably forget about having a slave for a 93 and not a 91, that I'm gonna buck up the dough and purchase a Motorcraft slave, as the one I was replacing was a NAPA slave and it lasted a grand total of 2 years, and a Motorcraft slave would more than likely last much more than that. Made me feel better when I did the math and saw that from NAPA, the slave and line would be $160+ and the Motorcraft slave was about $35 cheaper...cheaper is good when you're on a budget! Two days later, part is picked up from the local Ford dealer and I'm ready to get back to work!

      I had recently asked a few groups on Facebook if their clutch pedals felt extremely stiff...(I had always been told that my clutch was stiff, but I never noticed until I bought a new daily; 95 Escort, 5 spd, 2 door hatchback.) Had someone suggest greasing the shaft of the slave before installation to keep it moving freely, especially since it would now be sitting more often than not...so I removed the pilot bearing, started to move the slave around and discovered that I couldn't grease it like I was able to on the NAPA slave...oh well, just put it in. Another two days of installing the tranny and t-case and making sure everything hooked up right and shifted like it was supposed to and finishing/starting more small things, it was time for a fire up! Vacuum-bled the clutch system, everything was good to go!

      Turn key...engine fires...strange noise...clutch pedal goes limp..............crap....what happened?!?! ......CRAP!!!!!

      If you were paying attention, you may have noticed I left out a step from trying to grease the slave...you guessed it! I forgot to put the pilot bearing back onto the new slave...................$145 down the drain in 2 seconds.................que trans removal #3..................

      Things started getting better from there....Ford dealer parts guy knows my father (and me; when I asked for the part, he wondered how our 'ol 93 Sport was still getting along) and when I asked if Ford had a warranty on stupidity, he said no, but he'd see if he could work on a price. Another 2 days and another $110, I had a new slave. Checked 5 times that the bearing was still on during install and also found that in 2.5 hours, I can remove a trans, replace the slave and reinstall EVERYTHING.

      Vacuum-bleed clutch, and clutch pedal just hits the floor.....seriously, can't anything go right?!?! In my head, something gave in the MC when the 2nd slave was torn apart while under pressure...pulled it apart, but didn't see anything wrong but we'll have to get a new one....NAPA parts; $80.....Rockauto; $17....Rockauto, here I come....

      One week later, new MC is installed, bled, and the pedal still hits the floor.....so on a whim, I decide I'm gonna grab a 2x4 and manually pump and bleed the clutch............it works........

      Unfortunately, I was unable to get the original MC back together and so I was stuck with the Rockatuo part......and I say unfortunately not only because another $20 was dropped for no reason, but the shaft on the new MC was slightly different. I found this out by not being able to start the truck after it all was put together...turns out, it wouldn't let the neutral safety switch on the MC behind the pedal make contact, thus not letting the truck start...wrapped some metal around the shaft to make up some room and it all works now!!

      Out of all of this, there were some good things to happen...I finally got around to hooking up the fog lights to come on with the parking lights and not just the low beams (which came in handy as both headlights went out after all this work), grounded the switches for the fog lights and 20" bar so the lights in the switches would come on when the switch was on, got the radio to work again (blown fuse), got the rear aux lights to work again (corroded wires), replaced a broken tool mount on the rear hatch, replaced a non-working tag light and replaced the license plate holder, and rebuilt a t-case......and re-que pictures!

      [​IMG]

      Finally got the EF plate holder on that I got at the Moab run last spring!

      And if you were reading, you noticed I said "rebuilt a t-case".....here's that story (much shorter, I promise)...

      While the radio was not working and the slave was leaking, I went hunting one day when it was snowing quite a bit and the roads were getting squirrely only to find that the 4x4 wouldn't turn on, so I made the call; I was installing the manual t-case I bought from @Kris Guilbeaux at the Moab trip before last. Noticed before installation that the chain was bit sloppy (turned out to be stretched), so I swapped chains and the planetary/cover (bearings from manual case seemed really rough), put everything togehter and put in new ATF...manual case previously had gear oil in it and was really crudding everything up...

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]

      Case was cleaned up and installed! Everything works great!

      Next steps now are to make a knob for the shifter (time to brush up on my wood working skills) and replace the headlights.

      Headlights are being ordered tonight...after a lot of research and trying to figure out what to do with $50 worth of Amazon gift cards, I decided to upgrade to LED...more pics and reports to come...

      Whew............I'm tired now....got a full weekend of hunting to do tomorrow and Sunday as deer season comes to a close, so I may as well hit the sack...

      Till my next report! :D
       
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    25. mr cribb

      mr cribb US Army Retired Elite Explorer

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      Good thing you don't have my problems. I've been working on a Mustang GT since October and have driven it a total of five miles. I need a new rear axle. That's the short version. Out of all this, I sit back and think how I had almost zero trouble out of my explorer (I sold mine in June). Maybe one day I will own another one.
       
    26. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

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      Sorry to hear about all the clutch install Juju. Those situations can be frustrating, and sometimes lead to "Accidental" fiery explosions, then becomes legend, to be passed down to generations to come. Glad you got it ironed out, and no balls of fire happened.

      I am interested to see the LED headlamp project and what all you got for it. I really want a set of glass lens lights, and get away from these crappy plastic style. LED + Glass lens= Happy camper.
       

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