92 Exploder Sport 4WD wont crank with new battery and starter relay

[kfdisme]

Left my explorer to sit in the driveway for about 6 months while I was somewhere else. It was supposed to be periodically driven (every 2 wks) by a neighbor but I dont think she actually did that...

When I got back, the battery was stone dead and couldnt be charged, so I got a new MAxx 65S from walmart. With new battery in, the relay clicked but no crank, so I replaced the start relay and it started right up. Drove it around a little over two wks or so and I noticed that every start seemed a little weaker than the previous one, until finally its back to just clicking. Charged up the battery and went looking for my parasitic drain. I thought at first it might be the key lock because its been really loose for years, so I replaced that for $20. But no joy. So I went looking for parasitic drains and found that the overhead light was turned on at the light switch (rotated full CCW). That didnt work either. I thought the battery might have gone bad because of the parasitic drain, but it tested good at both walmart and autozone. Tried to jump start it, but no joy. Replaced the battery with the one form my pickup, same symptom. So now I assume that the new battery is OK and something else went bad, or the new relay went bad.

I've got the Haynes manual but it was kind of confusing the way they described how to test the relay. It said put the tranny in neutral, disconnect the push-on wire, and jump the battery positive terminal to the BAT terminal of the relay (which one is that?). On one terminal nothing happened, on the other one the relay on the starter clicked but the starter didnt turn that I could hear. So does this mean the starter is bad? If so, how could it fail in a slow progressive fashion that mimicked a weakening battery?

 

[gmbroy]

over time the brushes just wore out . low voltage starts ...etc try this take your starter off take the starter to a place that can test it . then you will know for sure

 

[roscoe 0202]

look for the battery cable from solenoid to starter both the big one and the trigger wire to the solenoid on the starter.
roscoe

 

[2stroke]

If you jumped the fender solenoid, and the starter solenoid clicked, the wires are fine. It is possible for the starter solenoid contacts to wear and cause this problem. You can take the starter off, take apart the solenoid, and clean or replace the contacts. Most people simply replace the starter. It is also possible your brushes are worn as has been stated.

 

[gmbroy]

let me clarify myself some . take the starter off & have it tested if it is good , your battery is good & your fender mounted starter solenoid is good , then replace the cable to your starter . there is known issues with the trigger wire corroding inside the insulation. Keep us posted & we will do all we can to help you out . best forum you will ever find .

 

[Centaurious]

Test for above 13v at the battery terminals while running. Chances are good you do not have a parasitic drain but you have a voltage loss from corroded cables, a known problem. Compare the previous readings with those from the Alternator, positive test lead to the B+ lug and negative lead on the alternator case. the voltage difference between the Alternator test and the Battery test is the voltage loss in the cables.

 

[2stroke]

He had the battery tested twice, and tried jump starting. If he jumped the fender solenoid, and hearing a click, the starter cable would have to be awful bad to not at least turn the starter a little. I think this is clearly a problem with the starter/solenoid itself. Also consider this started fine, then failed over a 2 week period. I'd think starter or solenoid contact before battery cable. It's kind of unclear how he jumped the solenoid. @kfdisme, use a big screwdriver and touch the two main studs (not trigger wire stud) together on your fender solenoid. Make sure it's in park or neutral. It will spark, but as long as you are careful, you won't get shocked. If you are worried, wear gloves and don't lean on the body.

 

[rbbaker]

I would put money on it being the starter. I had a situation where everyone in a while I would just get a click from the solenoid but the starter would not turn over. I would give the starter a couple of good wack with whatever I had handy and it would usually start after that. Then the fatefully day after a ball game in the rain it would not start at all no matter what I did. I pulled the starter out and pulled it apart in the back of the truck to see if it maybe needed new brushes. When I got it pulled down I could see the brushes where worn down but there were also chunks taken out of the commutator. When the starter was sitting in the right (wrong position) and the brushes were over where the chunks were missing it would not start. A couple of hits vibrated the starter enough to get things to make contact again. Picked up a rebuilt starter, replaced on the side of the road and the truck was golden again.

 

[kfdisme]

All of you betting on the starter are correct. I finally got around to taking the damned thing off, which was not easy since the vehicle wasnt on jackstands and the front wheel driveshaft was occluding at least half of the wrenching space. Took it to AutoZone to have it tested. The guy put it in their rig and did a QuikTest, then laughed and said the thing was toast, even though it revved up some. He said it should have sounded like a drill. He did the test three times in a row and it didnt rev at all on the last one. Priced one there but I decided to check with "Standard Auto Parts" which apparently has been bought out by "AutoPlus". They had a new Wilson for $115 which was cheaper than a rebuilt one for some reason. Clipped off the solenoid wire connector from my existing cable, soldered the end with a 100W iron and put the new starter back on, and it started right up...

Now all I have to do is replace the radiator as the thing wants to overheat, and fix the brakes, which leak fluid I suspect into the brake booster. Don't know why I bother with this thing, but its the first vehicle I ever bought brand new and I cant seem to get rid of it. Its a manual and fun to drive. The only thing I really don't like about it is the seats have no headrests, they're buckets. Being 6'2" tall, the top of the seat hits about midway up my neck, so if I get rear-ended, I'll end up either dead or a quadriplegic...

 

[larrydd999]

Do yourself a favor and coat the interface between the plastic sides and the metal crimps on the new radiator with 'ultra black' or something similar before you install it, and you'll find the radiator lasts longer without leaking. I finally did this with our '92 XLT a few years ago - on it's 3rd radiator - and it's still holding up.