Castle nut is a nut that a cotter pin goes through so it cant come off, like your steering tie rods
the lower ball joint is held on with ione, the upper uses a camber shim, the upper uses a snap ring so the camber shim cannot come out compltely (safety)
Most important thing is take your time, use Moog greaseable joints, and mark the camber shims against the beam so you can put them back exatxly as they were. Also if you have to completely remove the knuckle you will have to disconnec the Tie rod, dont turn the tie rod or your toe will be off.
If you do remove the knuckle from the truck (drop the tie rod) and easy way to do this is to put another nut on the tie rod end, (not a nut you want to re-use) and smakc the crap out of it with a hammer, they are pretty frozen if you have never had them off or its been a while.
Decide if you want to remove the knuckle to work on it (press out the joints, in the new ones away from the truck, on a bench or whatever) before you take it off the beam, because otherwise dropping the tie rod is a PITA when the knuckle is loose,
Make sense or did I confuse you.
Basically to make it easier to press out the old press in the new you want to remove the knuckle from the truck, so you have to seperate the steering tie rod, do this before you take it all aprt so you can smack the sucker loose while the knuckle is still mounted.
Phew like I said I love ball joints. Fight those suckers all day long....but once you do them a few times and learn the tricks they are cake.
You will want a breaker bar to use with the press kit too
Oh and start soaking everything with PB blaster or liquid wrnch whatever now.
Great time to service your wheel bearings and brake pads so you might want to pick up some ATF, some grease seals, and moly bearing lube. The ATF is for soaking the hubs while they are off.
Fill the hubs with ATF as soon as you take them off, then click them in and out about 100 times each while full of ATF (releases dirt) then drip dry them before re-install.
The brake calipers, here's how I service the brakes.
CLEAN the grooves the caliper slide pins go into, clean them to bare metal
Same on the caliper side.
CLEAN the slide pins (if theyu are worn get new ones, like $20 for 4)
use your pinky and coat the knuckle and caliper with a little bearing grease.
Coat the slide pin with a little bearing grease.
Install the slide pins, make sure you have the anti rattle clip on the bottom of the rear brake pad.
I routinely service my hubs, wheel bearings and brakes about 4 times a year, takes all of 45 min per side now and with 35" tires and a locker I have never had a failed anything up front (knocking on wood)