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95' 4.0 explorer sport...HELP

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by 95exploresport, August 30, 2017.

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    1. 95exploresport

      95exploresport Member

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      Hmm, when I pulled the pump I didn't see any interior lines? The pump came out as a whole unit Did the 95's even have those?

      This is the third time i've changed the Pump and filter and never before have had this issue, Remind you that in the first post I changed the pump and it started right up, ran it to the gas station and drove around a bit to make sure it was working OK then parked it, sat over night then no start.
       
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    3. 95exploresport

      95exploresport Member

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      Did all that, thxs for your help
       
    4. 95exploresport

      95exploresport Member

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      The "Hissing" sound near the fuel rail has me stumped, It has to be the leading cause of the issue. When I took it off to change the Injector I examined everything including vacuum lines and seen nothing that would indicate a leak.
       
    5. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      OP - Before you drop your fuel tank, rereading this thread, you've said you're seeing 38 PSI of fuel pressure at the rail (which is correct for a '95). If so, fuel shouldn't be your problem. I didn't see where you verified that you're getting spark. Perhaps I missed it. I also did not see where you ever said which engine you have. As the SOHC wasn't offered until '96, I'm assuming you have the OHV V6.

      Typically, if you have fuel, spark and air going into an engine and if everything is arriving at the right time, the engine should run or try to run. The SOHC engine is the exception if the timing chains jump time, but I don't believe we're talking about a SOHC engine in a '95 and it would be quite rare (though not unheard of) for an OHV engine to jump time or break a timing chain.

      I don't understand why your fuel pump runs continuously on prime with the key ON. That's not normal, but you're already replaced all the related parts to no avail. I really thought you were on to something with the wet fuel injector and hissing, but replacing the fuel injector didn't help. Other than removing a valve cover, or doing a compression test, I can't think of a way to verify that the valve train is operating. If the camshaft isn't spinning the PCM might only activate the fuel injector on the cylinder(s) which happens to be in the intake stroke and perhaps run the injector continuously because the cam position sensor is telling the PCM that it's time to inject fuel in that cylinder. Have you run a compression test?
       
    6. 95exploresport

      95exploresport Member

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      "I have a 95' Explorer with a 98' engine." (as stated in first post) No compression test but I did get spark from all plugs.

      How do I test the CPS?
       
    7. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      I know you said you have a '95 4.0L, but am I correct in assuming it's the OHV engine?

      IIRC on the overhead valve 4.0L the cam position sensor is located on the center rear top of the engine and is hard to get at. It sits on top of the cam synchronizer, which is basically the bottom part of a distributor, driven by the cam shaft, with a hall-effect sensor on top of it. (photo below). The cam position sensor is held on with 2 small screws.

      My first question would be is the synchronizer spinning, my second question would be is the sensor working. The purpose of the cam sensor is to time the fuel injector pulse for the PCM. It's function is very similar to the crank position sensor, which gets information from the crankshaft to time the spark. From what I understand on the SOHC and V8 engine, a bad cam sensor will still allow the engine to run, but not well. A bad crank sensor will prevent the engine from running.

      To test the cam sensor I would think you could use a multi-meter set to OHMS resistance and back probe the electrical connector. When the engine cranking the resistance should vary.

      [​IMG]
       
      Last edited: September 14, 2017
    8. 95exploresport

      95exploresport Member

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      I've seen this sensor when I put the 98 engine in. it will be impossible to get at without pulling the engine. being buried against the firewall it will be difficult to even test....UGH
       
    9. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      Yep.
       
    10. Turdle

      Turdle Moderator Masterbaker Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    11. 95exploresport

      95exploresport Member

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      Will I be able to pull the cam sensor after pulling the intake off?
       
    12. Turdle

      Turdle Moderator Masterbaker Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    13. 95exploresport

      95exploresport Member

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      Damn! that makes things a hell of a lot easier ...thxs!
       
    14. Turdle

      Turdle Moderator Masterbaker Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      You might just get away with moving the intake toward the front a bit. The cam sensor barely hits it on it's way up and out.
       

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    15. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      I would think so.
       
    16. 95exploresport

      95exploresport Member

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      Thxs guys! i have three projects going at the same time so it may be a little before I get back on this (Remodeling my basement, running gas line to stove and this Truck)
       
    17. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      I'd do the compression test on all cylinders before messing with the cam sensor/synchronizer. Much easier to do and it will prove whether your timing chain and camshaft are functioning.
       
    18. 95exploresport

      95exploresport Member

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      Will do that then.......First.
       
    19. 95exploresport

      95exploresport Member

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      Ok folks...I have done everything above, sometimes three times and I still have the fuel pump priming and never shutting off! UGH!
      That again as said above will not let the engine fire. Again so you don't have to reread all posts....Turn key to on, not start position, pump runs and runs and runs, will not shut off to allow engine to start.

      I've tried just about everything as stated in posts.

      My question is does the fuel tank need to be sealed completely to get fuel from the tank to the Rail (injectors) I'm thinking when I changed the fuel pump I hard a very hard time taking off the Inlet fuel hose with those stupid Plastic squeeze type clips but finally had to break it to get it off. Then the bigger outlet line from the pump itself I had the same issue but got it off and re bent the metal clip that holds the hose in place back to original and it worked, holding the line in place.

      Like I said in first post after replacing fuel pump and Fuel filter the truck started right up, no issues. ran it down to the gas station to fill take, started right up again, drove around a bit to make sure it was good and hot and it ran great. Came home, shut it off then tried to start it in the morning and thats when the pump ran and ran but no start.

      I need to add that before I changed those items I had to let the pump run longer and longer (Minutes) before it would shut off to be able to start.


      Tried just about everything, it's been a great truck but i'm at the point of throwing too much money at a simple fix but don't wanna give up on this truck as it's been very good to us. WTF could it be?!?!?

      Thank-you all, really appreciate the help, I really do!.

      Bill
       
    20. 95exploresport

      95exploresport Member

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      Forgot to add....I have 40lbs fuel pressure at the rail...Just in the on position no start
       
    21. Turdle

      Turdle Moderator Masterbaker Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      ok, check to see if the fuel pump relay has fused it's contacts closed.

      One easy way is, while the fuel pump is running, whack the relay with the handle of a screwdriver. If the pump turns off the relay may be getting old and sticking.
      Also, try pulling the relay and swap it with another one like it in the power distribution box. see if the "no turn off" problem moves to the new circuit.
      This might help determine if it is a bad relay or something else.
       
    22. 95exploresport

      95exploresport Member

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      I forgot to mention I tried that. when I pull the fuel pump relay it shuts off, when I put a different one in it's place it keeps running too.

      Question; when I crank the engine what RPM should I at least get while cranking?
      The needle barely moves but I thought with the low cranking RPM's it wouldn't register hardly anything anyways.

      But even if the problem was the distributor (Or distributor related) why would that cause the pump to keep running?
       
    23. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      I wouldn't expect to see much RPM registering on the tach while cranking. It's insignificant.

      37-40 PSI of fuel pressure at the rail is about right for a '95.
       
    24. 95exploresport

      95exploresport Member

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      Gets worse. Forgot to take my wedding band off while working on the truck, Over left bank, never hit the concrete (Was very quiet in the garage) took 3 hrs trying to locate it to no avail. Yes very expensive piece for 1oz metal that is worth 3 times the value of the truck...UGH!!!!

      Going to take starter off to see if it fell between block and starter, then piece it apart to locate. Who knows? maybe there's a reason I lost it. to try and find the issue with the truck.
      Yes going to take upper manifold off to get to distributer.
      Still being positive about this, I will find the issue.
       
    25. 95exploresport

      95exploresport Member

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      I finally figured it out!
      When I was taking the Upper air plenum off to get to the distributer I had to take all the wire connections off, so I thought what the heck, I'll try and re hook up the battery and see if the Fuel pump shuts off after couple seconds. Sure enough it did! So one by one I started hooking up the connections and BAM! it was the friggen EGR pressure feedback sensor (Pictured) I by passed it, put everything back together and it started right up!! YEAH!

      Oh I did find my ring, it had bounced into the wheel well cover and slid down to the chassis...LOL

      [​IMG]
       
    26. 95exploresport

      95exploresport Member

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      I want to thank everyone who tried to help me fix the issue, I knew it was something simple by the way it ran just before I shut it off.
      THANK-YOU FOLKS FOR YOUR TIME!
      Bill
       

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