How to: - 98 5.0 AWD Auto to 5spd M5R2 and 4406 M | Page 10 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: 98 5.0 AWD Auto to 5spd M5R2 and 4406 M

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i have a 98 with the 5.0... the vehicles listed above are doners in a nother yard...
 



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i have a 98 with the 5.0... the vehicles listed above are doners in a nother yard...

Oh ok, then you can re-use the clutch pedal assembly and the hydraulic line off the 4.0 at least. I wouldn't re-use a slave out of the yard, they have problems leaking as it is, and a new one isn't that much.
 






I was planing on geting new cluth and all the other stuff. the guy is gunna throw it all in as a package deal so i guess i can use it all as mock up or something....my main concer is ...is this stuff gunna work for me? how off is the shifter gunna be???
 






my main concer is ...is this stuff gunna work for me? how off is the shifter gunna be???

To get an idea look at this post: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2237850&postcount=36

and this picture:
attachment.php


from this post: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2255244&postcount=63


You could always find just the top section from a newer M5R2 and try and swap that, but there's not guarantee they are compatible as far as i know.
 












beleive me for the price im gunna try an make the older one work... no body lift but it looks like they are only 6-7 inches off idk well see....
 






another thing to consider is if those older M5R2s will work with a hydraulic slave cylinder, or even an internal slave. Some of those older ones had the external slave cylinder and i believe before that they were cable operated.
 






This thread is a great visual source! Thanks for all the pictures!

I am about to swap out the auto for the manual, and I have a full size console. I was looking for pictures of the manual with a full size console and WHAM! there they were!

Ryans pics of the 1st gen rear air duct is a great idea, BUT...will it fit under the 2nd gen console??? Does it mate up with the duct under the dash???? Curious.

Does the console need to be removed to remove the rear duct tube? I need to get on this asap if it does...:(

Any input here would be great..Thanks in advance.
 






The pre 95 console air duct doesn't end at the center where the 95+ part does. It's close but to the side, you would need some work there. I don't think I have my old 93 duct piece, but I thought it was curious that it went under the rug and was not noticeable. My 99 rug fit the floor better than my 93 rug did, possibly because of that air duct being under the 93 rug.
 






Thanks for that Don.

I am just hoping I do not have to gut the console completely in order to make it work, as I want to keep it. I will just block the rear duct and eliminate it all together if I need to. I really don't use it anyways.

I have a ton of wiring running thru mine right now, and that kinda makes me a little nervous with the shifter. I will need to come up with a better way to run my wiring to my ashtray where I have 7 switches inside it. That wiring is NOT one of my favorite things to do. Ah well, that's just the way it goes...lol
 






If you can use the old ducting, then you will gain a lot of space for wiring. The 95-01 ducts take up a bunch of space along the shifter area. The old ducting feeds into a flat volume at the back, you will have to alter something there to work with the 95+ console. I still have my 93 Limited console, this reminds me that I should sell some stuff to make room.
 






After tinkering around with this console situation, I came to the conclusion of just removing the duct tube, and blocking it off at the dash. I am going to re-wire the entire switch panel and have 2-4ga wires running up the sides of the console to a fuse block.

I will be taking pics and posting in my registry for this mod :)
 






I wonder if Nick ever got his missed figured out?
 






I wonder if Nick ever got his missed figured out?

haha, you'd think I would have by now, but I still haven't. Though I am almost certain at this point it's the plugs and/or wires, I just haven't had time to fix it. It's intermittent and a lot worse in humid rainy weather. I swapped out/around the ignition coils and that wasn't it. I'm going to check/replace the plugs and wires next. I'm pretty sure now it's not the tune or anything related to the swap because the truck drives exactly the same way with the stock program loaded, hiccup and all.
 






try disconnecting the vss connector at the tc and see if it fixes your problem.
 






try disconnecting the vss connector at the tc and see if it fixes your problem. your speedo wont work but i would be willing to bet that it will fix the hiccup
 












unplugging the vss fixed my hiccup. they should have removed the vss input from the pcm program when they did your reflash. the pcm compares the vss to the convertor rotor speed sensor, and uses this to alter the fuel and timing. if the tc speed sensor is not present, the vss will throw the pcm off.
 






i haven't had a chance to try it yet but if it doesn't have a VSS nor the torque converter sensor it doesn't just run in limp mode does it? So is there no way to get it the speedo to work without causing this problem? On your truck is there a vss in the rear axle as well as the tc? The only thing that doesn't make sense about this is that it's a lot worse in the rain and humid weather and it's inconsistent.
 



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is there a vss in the rear axle as well as the tc?
The 95~97 Explorer/Ranger VSS for the PCM, speedometer, etc. comes directly from a gear driven signal generator that plugs in like a speedometer cable. 4x4's have it in the t-case, 4x2's in the transmission case or tailhousing. These years also have the same sensor as your 98 on the rear diff but it is used only for ABS input.

98~2001 Explorer makes the rear axle ABS sensor do double duty. The signal is used directly for antilock control but the 4WABS Module also outputs a corrected square wave VSS to the speedometer, PCM, speed control and several modules.
 






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