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98 5.0 AWD Auto to 5spd M5R2 and 4406 M

Tune costs

Does anybody know what these tunes cost? Is there a way to do it yourself? And what all is involved, as in do they need the whole vehicle, just the computer or what?
 



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Hey Guys,
I'm planning on pulling the 4R70W and the 4404 AWD case in my 98 and replacing them with an M5R2 (from a 97 or newer F-150) and a 4406 manual shift. I've been collecting info and measurements about the M5R2 and I know this is uncharted territory for an explorer but I'm pretty sure I will be able to get it to work from everything I've read about it. I also have the convenience of having a friend with an 03 F-150 with a 5 speed (M5R2) and a 4406 M so I have been taking a bunch of pictures and getting measurements off his truck.

For those of you that have done the 4406 conversion I just want to verify, it seems like if you have a 98 or older explorer then you will need a 4406 M from a 98 F-150 for the speedo to work(without going through all the trouble Jamie (410fortune) went through and switching tail shafts and speedo gears)?

However I thought for trucks 98 and newer the VSS was the RABS sensor, or is this only on the 4.0 trucks?

Something else I'm thinking is I do have 33's on the truck so if I go the gear VSS route(not saying I have the option yet, just hypothetical) then it would be a lot easier to adjust the speedo as opposed to getting tunes to do it.

Does anyone know anything about the 2003 4406 and if that might work? The reason I ask is I found one with only 32K and for only $150 which is coming off the same truck I am getting the M5R2 for only $450. Where as the same yard has a 98 F-150 manual shift t-case with 119K on it and for $300 so obviously I'd like the newer, lower mileage, cheaper case if possible.

I plan on doing a little test and unplugging the sensor on my current 4404 and seeing if the speedo still works, and if not then I'll pull the sensor out to see if it is gear driven or one of the doppler kind like the RABS, and if it is then I'll just check and see if the 03 case has the same kind of sensor.

Also it seems both the front and rear drive shafts from a 2000-ish Expedition will bolt right in with the addition of the hybrid 1330 1310 u-joint on the front, correct?

I plan on going to the yard this Friday since I have it off for the holiday to collect as much as I can...
primary list: tranny, tcase(either 03 or 98), F/R driveshafts
secondary list: 302 flywheel for a 5speed, clutch pedal, master cylinder, and reservoir from either a ranger or explorer(unlikely)

So if anyone can confirm any of my questions that'd be great. Thanks!
 






Does anybody know what these tunes cost? Is there a way to do it yourself? And what all is involved, as in do they need the whole vehicle, just the computer or what?

I know this is an old post but since I was looking at the thread I figured I would answer what I can. I have bought tunes from both henson performance and bama chips and they were both $50 (this was over 5 years ago now though). I had to buy and SCT Xcalibrator so I could flash them though (which was $150 on ebay about 5 years ago too). You flash the tunes yourself, but if you lived near a place then i they might do it for you and they would need your truck. You technicallay don't need the tune (unless you want to get it inspected) because it just turns off all the check engine lights.
 






From a PM:

Hey nick, I'm doing the same swap you did and i have a few questions if you don't mind answering them. First, do you know the dorman number for the bushings that go in the shifter housing for the transfercase? I've spent a lot of time looking and I can't find them.

Sorry I didn't have to buy these so i don't know. Maybe someone else here did.

Second, my transfercase is too close to the fuel tank to hook up the vss, do you think I would be able to rotate the tail piece 90 degrees so I can have my speedo back?

I honestly have no idea. I didn't take mine apart.

Third, did your explorer have the vehicle monitoring screen in the console, and if it did what did you do with it after the swap? The trans shifter seems to be right in the way.

Mine did not have that, i just had a cubby there.


And lastly, I've read thru your post a few times and I must have missed the mention of what hybrid u-joint is used for the front driveshaft.

This is the u-joint I bought: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pcn-253

It's a Precision Super U-Joints 253, 1310-1330 Conversion

Any help would be awesome. I've already driven it and it's a blast now I'm trying to tie up the loose ends.

Oh, on a side note, I noticed you said you had a lot of trouble with Bama chips, I used Cincy Speed Warehouse and they had SCT make me a tune and it worked without a single problem. Thought you might like to pass that on if anybody asks.
Thanks, Casey
 






You technicallay don't need the tune (unless you want to get it inspected) because it just turns off all the check engine lights.

You don't need it? I thought it would go into limp mode without it. I talked to a tune shop here and they said it would be easier to tune a 4.6 manual ECM to run the 5.0/302.
 






You don't need it? I thought it would go into limp mode without it. I talked to a tune shop here and they said it would be easier to tune a 4.6 manual ECM to run the 5.0/302.

No, mine did not go to limp mode when I drove it before getting a tune. All the tune did was get rid of my check engine lights. I don't know about using a 4.6 ECM for a 5.0, that doesn't seem right to me but maybe.
 






The 4.6 PCM could be made to work, but that would require modifications to the system. Those use different cam/crank sensors, coil on plugs for 99+ etc. I'd stick with the 302 computer if at all possible.
 






What I'm thinking of trying is (I have the clutch sensor) wiring it so when the peddle is up it thinks it's in drive and when it's pressed it thinks it's in neutral. And taking all the sensors and harness out if the auto hooking them up and sitting in a container with fluid.
 






What I'm thinking of trying is (I have the clutch sensor) wiring it so when the peddle is up it thinks it's in drive and when it's pressed it thinks it's in neutral. And taking all the sensors and harness out if the auto hooking them up and sitting in a container with fluid.

Why go through all the trouble? And I suspect the sensors need more then just fluid to be happy.
 






Can't afford a tune lol. What would be my best option I thought about using resistors, I need it to run good it's my daly driver.
 






When I had my guy at Cincy speed build my tune he said it was literally just flipping a "switch" in the tune to make it think it's a manual. What sensors/switches are you wanting to still have? You just need to complete the starter circuit and it should start, then you can fix the rest later, at least youll be moving
 






I just want it to run right is all.
 






I could be wrong but I think a lot of the problems people were having weren't necessarily related to the swap. Nick could tell you more but if I remember right it was a mass air problem. I also had this same random "hiccup" and mine was caused by a failing camshaft position sensor and synchronizer. The sensor failed catastrophically causing the synchronizer to fail as well. When this sensor is bad the computer goes to a default setting which isn't exactly reliable. I'm still using this post for info as my swap is about 80% done. I can drive it but I still have some things to finish. So if you have questions feel free to ask and additionally having done it recently I definitely have some thoughts that aren't mentioned that I could share
 






What I figure if all els is I'm going to still wire it so that when the clutch is out it thinks it's in drive and when down it thinks nutral, my only reasoning for this is a better fuel and spark curve for being under a load. I don't care about the codes if it won't make it go into limp mode. I'm about ready to do my swap I just need 4.10's for my front axle then everything is going in.
 






Just as a heads up I used a m5r2 from a 97 f150 that had the 4.2. At highway speeds it runs around 2700rpms. Are you planning on driving this on the street? Because if you put 4.10s in its gonna be even higher
 






I already have 4.10 in my rear axle, dose it have plenty of power? I'm also running 33" tall tires I still have 3.73's I can put in it but I wanted good acceleration and tq. I know with the auto I wish I went a bit lower, I turn 2200-2500 at 75 mph.
 












How fast were you going at 2700 rpm?
 






Alright so apparently I have you some bad info...I was basing my speed on what traffic was doing because I didn't have my vss hooked up yet. So, I just finished sorting that out and I went for a ride...70 is about 2400rpms. I was way off, traffic must have been going fast that day. And for how it pulls, it's a blast! Totally worth the busted knuckles. And while I'm at it does anybody know the dorman number or anywhere I can get the plastic bushings that go on the transfercase shifter?
 



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Also use the ranger hydraulic line not the f-150, it's way too long. I'm either going to have to heat it and reshape it or replace it. Given the shape it has it's rubbing on stuff all over. Also a small body lift will definitely help the process.
 






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