Discussion in 'Modified 1995-2001 Explorers' started by Nick26, June 30, 2009.
I got my wiring harness done...
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Well this is just the cat's a$$. I've had this kind of swap on my mind since I bought my truck.
I haven't even seen this thread until tonight, I guess I'm spending too much time over at tdiclub.com getting ideas for the new Jetta. This is good reading, keep it up.
Looks like you're on the right track, curious what you find when you pull the trans back off.
Aaron, look for another Jetta owner over there, who has a 98 Explorer and is thinking of putting 1.9 heads on his 1.6 diesel. Small world.
Well I let it run for a couple minutes tonight to see if it would stop the scraping noise but I didn't like the sound of it and I'm not in any rush so I decided I'm going to take it back apart and see what was hitting.
Also I finally found someone who sells the block plate I need, and at a good price($50 shipped), which also contributed to my decision. The Boss 302 mustang used a 164 tooth flywheel too apparently... who knew. This was the hardest part to find so far.
Also here's some part numbers for people for future use:
D0AZ-7007 - A - ford block plate for a 302 with a manual and a 164 tooth flywheel(doesn't come up on FPN)
6L5Z2455BB - clutch and brake pedal assembly
F87Z7A512 - hydrualic clutch line for an explorer (also doesn't work on FPN but can be found by searching for "line" for a 99 explorer)
wow, good work figuring this all out, what a PITA! Should be wicked cool to drive!
damn v8 haven't seen you post anything in a while
Ok well I have good news... so the awful noise I heard wasn't the block plate at all, it was the starter. As I started to take things apart to pull the tranny off again the first thing I pulled off was the starter and I saw this carnage (see below). So then I compared the part numbers for a 98 5.0 explorer and a 96 5.0 F150 starters and realized the F150 has a different starter for a manual transmission. I should have known, but I got ahead of myself when the explorer one just fit. So even though the explorer starter bolted in fine it won't work. Of course I had to destroy a starter to find that out but I would have traded it in as the core anyway. So then I went and got an 96 F150 manual starter and tried putting that in. The starter hole in the block plate was a little tight though so I dremelled about a 1/16" off the left edge of it and it went in pretty snug after that. Then I crossed my fingers and started it and it ran perfectly smooth, so that was a sigh of relief, I don't have to replace the block plate after all. However if I were to do it all over again I wouldn't skimp on the block plate, I would get a 96 F150 block plate because now there is a gap where the explorer starter had a lip that covered it. Also the AOD block plates have a small access panel piece that needs to be bolted onto the bottom which is kind of annoying too.
So now I can get back to bleeding the stupid clutch... haha.
here's a pic of the funky extra lip on the explorer starter...
Just realized I never answered your second question... There is an electrical connector(11A152 in the dealership parts diagram) that clips onto the clutch pedal shaft which would probably tell me whether or not the clutch pedal is down or not but I'm not going to worry about it. Making it think it's in neutral all the time is fine with me, I'm the only one who will be driving it for the most part.
wow awesome news!! Hopefully the new unit wasnt $350
So you driving it yet?????
nah, it was like $100 for an autozone reman unit($30 core), and I had to return a few things so it actually only cost me $17 out my pocket which was a bonus.
haha, not yet, i wish... getting there though, it's all downhill from here now... at least I think it should be.
Nick: are your t-case & driveshafts in?
not yet... i want to make sure the tranny shifts ok while hooked up to the motor before i bolt them on.
Well I got the transfer case on today and got the rear drive shaft hooked up. It would be drivable except the clutch still isn't bled enough. I think I am going to have to do like this guy suggests and undo the mater cylinder again so I can turn it upside down:
It feels like it is bled but when I view it in action through the access hole it does not appear to move the pressure plate fingers enough to release the clutch. At first I panicked a little because the diagram I got from ford shows the 96 F150 using an external slave cylinder with the release arm. So then i wondered if maybe the pressure plates for those clutch sets needed more travel then the internal slave. But I checked part numbers with Autozone, Centerforce and other websites and they sell the same clutch for all 96 F150s (inc. the 5.0 and the 300 i6). So that shouldn't be an issue.
I spent a while modifying the bracket for the gas tank. I read about a lot of people's clearance issues so i decided to just cut off the end and weld a support bracket on the front side of it instead. I had to notch a small part of the gas tank lip to make it fit. Also I trashed the black plastic piece from on top of the gas tank. Anybody know why they put that there in the first place? Then I got the hole for the t-case shifter cut out and cut out a hole in the access panel for the tranny shifter and used a small shift boot I got from a junk yard around it.
I finally got the clutch bled. I had to take the master cylinder out of the firewall again and pump it upside down until all the air was out, then i would compress it and hold it, then tighten the bleed screw, then release it and repeat a few times. By far the biggest PITA of the whole swap. It was too the point that it had me worrying I didn't have the right pressure plate for this slave cylinder. One problem is I popped the arm off the pedal so much i destroyed the bushing and now the pedal falls off the arm easily so i have to get a new bushing from the dealer tomorrow.
Since I didn't have any helpers I had to get creative... I ran a long tube from the bleed screw all the way up to the reservoir so when i pumped the master cylinder it would dump the extra right back into the reservoir. And then to hold the master cylinder compressed I used a piece of coat hanger bent around the tube end with a hook on the other end to hold the arm in.
Now I just have to get the interior back together and figure out the shift boots.
Nice man, let us know how well it moves without the auto. I hope it feels faster.
hahaha.... this thing pulls! I can just put it in first and let off the clutch and it will just go without any gas. This is with 33's on it too, it would really pull with stock tires.
I just buttoned up pretty much everything on the underside except the front DS(still need the hybrid ujoint) and tcase skid plate and I finished my shifter, just not the boot yet so i took it for a little longer of a test drive and it runs well. I tested out 4lo (technically 2lo at the moment) and that works well too. Now on to my 11 CEL's, hahaha. I think a few of them are related to the plug for the rear temp controls being disconnected.
Read the codes and take them one at a time. I don't think any CELs would come from the center console.
O2 sensor codes, initially they weren't plugged in, also I'm wondering if I plugged them back in backwards. One of these is one of the ones I saw a description for in a different thread and read it as the "heater circuit":
P0135 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0155 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P1260 Theft detected engine disabled - this one is kind of funny, considering it's drivable. Not sure what triggered the theft signal though... "Someone stole your transmission!"
The rest are all totally trans related which leads me to believe the guy Matt at Bama chips didn't eliminate any of the auto trans functions from the computer like I asked him to. He still hasn't followed up to any of my emails. I'm a little annoyed with their quality of support.
P0708 trans range sensor input
P0713 trans fluid level
P0720 output speed sensor
P0743 torque converter circuit
P0750 Shift Solenoid A
P0755 Shift Solenoid B
P1702 trans system problems <- this is a funny description
P1746 electronic pressure control solenoid
Yeah, seems to me that your trans controls are still there. If you had all those codes and the 4r70w still installed you would be going nowhere. lol I bet the PCM is trying to do shift stuff and wondering what the heck is going on....You are going 40mph in neutral with 1/4 throttle! wtf!
Like 99SportX said, your Transmission Commands are still in there...
Sometimes e-mail isn't as good as actually calling the person on the phone.
After your trans codes are cleared, and you plugged in your O2's...there isn't a real problem...
If you clear the codes, do they all come back??
I cleared them all but the light came back on after a couple minutes. I'll check them again tomorrow.
I want to do this swap so bad! this is insanely cool! :notworthy
I hope by this time next year, I'll be able to do a V8 swap with a 5-speed. that would sick. upgrade to some 31" BFG ATs, maybe a 4WD conversion at the same time...