98 Explorer 5.0 AWD $650 repair Bill - Not a pulley - harmonic sound?

[ELeBlanc]

I am not a mechanic at all and everything is done by my mechanic (in NYC).

On today's menu:
Replace two rear shocks $300 - said this was essential as they were rusted at the bottom
Replace Serpentine Belt $125
Replace leaking transmission line $75
Replace Exchaust gasket between Cat and ??? $150 - said this was essential if an inspection was soon

Do these sound like reasonable figures for both parts and materials? I suppose I should have written this earlier when I could've got input on things like shocks...

Einar

 

[Dono]

Were the shocks rusty on the bottom, or oily?

Its tough to comment on the other stuff without knowing the condition of the old parts. I know shops typically make good money replacing stuff like belts and shocks, so those prices are not out of the ordinary if your not willing or able to do it yourself.

 

[koda2000]

Many shops charge between $75-$100 per hour for labor, plus they mark up the cost of the parts they buy by up to 60%. I don't want to make you feel bad, but I do 99% of my own repairs (just farming out the jobs I don't want to do). From what I see the cost of your parts might have been around $250... ? so the rest is labor. I guess if you have to pay someone to make repairs the prices aren't out of line, but as said a lot depends on the amount of labor necessary to make those repairs. Many shops charge flat-rate for labor. This means you pay a flat-rate for a repair, whether it takes them 30 mins or 5 hours to fix something.

As your vehicle ages, and depreciates, you reach a point where it's no longer economically feasible to pay someone to make your repairs. Most of us here do our own repairs for that reason.

 

[ELeBlanc]

Many shops charge between $75-$100 per hour for labor, plus they mark up the cost of the parts they buy by up to 60%. I don't want to make you feel bad, but I do 99% of my own repairs (just farming out the jobs I don't want to do). From what I see the cost of your parts might have been around $250... ? so the rest is labor. I guess if you have to pay someone to make repairs the prices aren't out of line, but as said a lot depends on the amount of labor necessary to make those repairs. Many shops charge flat-rate for labor. This means you pay a flat-rate for a repair, whether it takes them 30 mins or 5 hours to fix something.

As your vehicle ages you reach a point where it's no longer feasible to pay someone to make your repairs. Most of us here do our own repairs for that reason.

I just don't have the skill set or experience to do my own repairs.
I've had my vehicle for a year and put 15k on it driving long weekend trips.
I love it and hope it lasts a good long time. I had a 2002 which sucked (and died) and went backward to a 5.0 v* soley based on the reviews and feedback here. So I view the $650 as an investment. I only paid $850 initially when I purchased it with 101k from a municipality. My only serious concern is the rust underneath (which is not crazy).

 

[koda2000]

I just don't have the skill set or experience to do my own repairs.
I've had my vehicle for a year and put 15k on it driving long weekend trips.
I love it and hope it lasts a good long time. I had a 2002 which sucked (and died) and went backward to a 5.0 v* soley based on the reviews and feedback here. So I view the $650 as an investment. I only paid $850 initially when I purchased it with 101k from a municipality. My only serious concern is the rust underneath (which is not crazy).

With what you paid for your vehicle and what you've put into it to-date you're not upside-down, so that's good. I still have two 5.0L's (a 2000 Mountaineer and a 2001 Explorer EB). Combined they have almost 450,000 miles and are both running strong. I also have a 2001 Sport Trac which has the POS SOHC V6. I doubt the ST will see 250k, but I plan to keep them all running as long as I can, so I'm very proactive on maintenance. I'm also a pretty good mechanic.

 

[96eb96]

I am not a mechanic at all and everything is done by my mechanic (in NYC).

On today's menu:
Replace two rear shocks $300 - said this was essential as they were rusted at the bottom
Replace Serpentine Belt $125
Replace leaking transmission line $75
Replace Exchaust gasket between Cat and ??? $150 - said this was essential if an inspection was soon

Do these sound like reasonable figures for both parts and materials? I suppose I should have written this earlier when I could've got input on things like shocks...

Einar

Sounds sorta fair, no bargain.
I would also want to know what brand of shocks they used.
Brooklyn has lots of choices, with a shop on every block, you probably could have done a bit better shopping around, but quality could become an issue. I would buy parts, drive from shop to shop and see who would do it for the least. But the experiences I had made me learn to do my own repairs.

If you are worried about rust have the bottom sprayed with fluid film. The salt is no joke, especially if you drive upstate in the winter. I bet your brake lines are pretty rusty too.

 

[J_C]

I am not a mechanic at all and everything is done by my mechanic (in NYC).

On today's menu:
Replace two rear shocks $300 - said this was essential as they were rusted at the bottom
Replace Serpentine Belt $125
Replace leaking transmission line $75
Replace Exchaust gasket between Cat and ??? $150 - said this was essential if an inspection was soon

Do these sound like reasonable figures for both parts and materials? I suppose I should have written this earlier when I could've got input on things like shocks...

Einar

The bill was a little high. Some places will sell shocks $50 ea installed for a set of 4. It's 1/2 hour (rounded up) labor and unless exotic Bilstein/Rancho/etc, under $40 ea., maybe under $20 ea. shock. I could see them claiming an hour labor but it shouldn't take that long unless they put the new grunt helper on the job.

Serpentine Belt is around $25, takes 5 minutes rounded up to 1/2 hr = $75

Transmission line is the one that could have been priced about right.

Exhaust gasket should be a ~ $4 part. If the bolts broke off during removal, add ~$4 for bolts and nuts. It might've needed cut and rewelded? Round up to (maybe as high as) 1 hr labor... might've only taken 10 minutes if there was enough play to slide a new gasket in with the rest in place. This is more of a guess than the rest, I don't know the specifics of (which engine/exhaust) setup you have.

Then again repairs might cost a little more where you're located, and keeping it running by replacing items like these is going to be cheaper than replacing the vehicle in most cases.

In snowy regions the bottoms of shock cylinders will start rusting long before the shock rusts through enough to compromise it. You might try smearing some thick silicone grease on any rust areas that develop on the shock to slow down rust.

 

[toypaseo]

I am no mechanic by far. I do have some tools though. I replaced front and rear shocks. I replaced the serpentine belt, tensioner, and idler pulley. Those are fairly easy jobs, and the info to do them is on here.

 

[safn1949]

I was a dealer mechanic in upstate NY, that is a real bear to work on because of the rust. It takes so much longer to do anything then it did when I moved to Virginia, what a pita. Everything is rusted solid and either breaks or you end up with the torch to loosen it up. Ugh.

 

[Mbrooks420]

You also have to factor in that this was done in New York City. Everywhere else this would probably be high, but any skilled labor is higher there.

 

[MAS Tequila]

Like Mbrooks said, it is in NYC, so the price really isn't bad.

Everything in the city costs more than the rest of the country, unless you're in CA.

If you have time and a place to do some of the repairs, invest in some simple tools and learn to do some of the basics.

You didn't mention if you have anyplace to work on your Ex.

 

[96eb96]

You also have to factor in that this was done in New York City. Everywhere else this would probably be high, but any skilled labor is higher there.

True, if you went to a Ford Dealer it would be extremely expensive. But there are volume shops that are pretty cheap. No frills or waiting rooms, they may let you hand them tools and parts. It is buyer beware though, because quality can vary. You have to know the guy doing it. Some are very good. NYC runs on a force of undocumented labor, keep that in mind too. That don't mean they do bad work, but the prices can be very low.

Had some mechanic place put his grease soaked paws on my rotors(was actually a chain place), last time I had brakes done in a shop.

 

[koda2000]

I've probably taken my vehicles to the dealerships/shops for non-warrantied work (not counting recalls) only around 5 times in the past 50 years. The few times I've had dealerships do something, I'd say 90% of the time they've managed to mess something up and/or tried to sell me unnecessary repairs. I'm very distrustful of most mechanics and shops. I have one local guy now that does great work at his very reasonably priced shop. I use him for the few things I don't feel like tackling (for example, a Grand Am P/S rack replacement and a 5.0L Mountaineer W/P replacement). When I do bring him work I provide the parts and fluids to be used.

 

[96firephoenix]

For all that work in NYC that's not a bad price, especially considering that you'll probably pass inspection easily now.

 

[Spudhut]

Its hard to judge and say 'Its a great deal', especially if your someone who does your own work. From a 'Do It Yourself'r ' prospective - I'd say Holy Moly that's expensive; especially knowing what it takes to do the work listed.

When you don't have those skills, its tough to determine if your getting a fair shake/being treated fairly.

Its like going to the hospital. Not being a doctor makes it tough to know if all the tests are just 'standard practice' or actually needed. Makes you feel like a living 'Pin Cushion' - Test it till we find something...

My only suggestion is to call around to a few mechanics - big and small and see what they charge. This will help you determine if your getting a fair shake. Do your research on the place that will do the work - Yelp or online reviews...

Maybe someone in the Forums can point you in the right direction...

Good luck.

 

[ELeBlanc]

All - thanks for your input. I've used the same mechanic forever and no plans to learn the trade (or even skills).
Just wanted to see if their pricing is in the right ballpark.

 

[ELeBlanc]

Ok picked it up. Got in. Turned it on and same noise from under the hood... Ughhh. The front end noise is why I brought it in.

Paid $125 of the $650 for the serpentine belt to be replaced. Head mechanic (whom I completely trust his judgement) says right away. Idler pulley.
Left the car at the shop. Check back in the morning.

What an idler pulley replace cost at a non-dealer mechanic?

 

[96eb96]

Ok picked it up. Got in. Turned it on and same noise from under the hood... Ughhh. The front end noise is why I brought it in.

Paid $125 of the $650 for the serpentine belt to be replaced. Head mechanic (whom I completely trust his judgement) says right away. Idler pulley.
Left the car at the shop. Check back in the morning.

What an idler pulley replace cost at a non-dealer mechanic?

Prob $50 bucks. There were a bad batch of them around that year, especially the v6es. I lost mine on the road many years ago, a place charged me $70 here, he knew I didn't have much of a choice. Part is about $10 my cost, they will charge 25-30 and 1/3-1/2 hr labor, so $50-$85ish is ballpark. It could be the tensioner too, it also has a pulley.

 

[J_C]

Heh, for $125 they should have replaced the idler pulley as a courtesy considering your total bill and they were doing the belt anyway (required for belt to have good life!), but either way should have ran it and noticed that.

I'd not take it back to this shop. Your trust is misplaced if they can't even do a job right after being overpaid for 5 minutes work.

 

[96eb96]

Heh, for $125 they should have replaced the idler pulley as a courtesy considering your total bill and they were doing the belt anyway (required for belt to have good life!), but either way should have ran it and noticed that.

I'd not take it back to this shop. Your trust is misplaced if they can't even do a job right after being overpaid for 5 minutes work.

Agreed. Once a belt comes off you should spin all the pulleys by hand to see if they are ok, then listen to it when it runs with the new belt. This is why I hate shops, many are just like that. They only care about getting it done as fast as possible.