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99 explorer sport Front upper control arms

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by 005h4rp, December 30, 2017.

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    1. 005h4rp

      005h4rp New Member

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      Hi guys..ok so ive found myself in a bit of a fix. I bought 2 new front uca's for my little sport i bought a month ago. The existing bushings were literally gone. Ok seemed simple enough, the pss side right side bolt on arm didnt wanna budge so i said ok threw it back together as is. Proceed to driver side..ok now this guy is gonna work with me. Get both bolts loose off frame one on left comes out...somehow. Bolt on the right has no where to go. So im screwing around with this for like forever..night falls. At this point i had already proceeded to re-attach and bolt up existing since cant get sob out. Please any suggestions to get this out or either way at least get upper attached to lower again. Its the one piece. Ill post pics as soon as i get some light out there. Thank you
       
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    3. Turdle

      Turdle I bake stuff Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I understand the frustration, but to try to explain how the driver side rear upper control arm bolt comes out is nearly impossible. It will come out, you have to fiddle with the spacers, wiggle them in between the lines- rotate the bolt and fiddle some more but it does come out. I also stress, the bolt must go back in the same way for a proper alignment-tool fitting.

      You may want to consider alignment shims at this point. They will allow a better alignment and go back in easier than the stock stuff does.
       
    4. 005h4rp

      005h4rp New Member

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      20171230_082601_HDR.jpg 7
      20171230_082601_HDR.jpg
       
    5. XLTrunner

      XLTrunner Active Member

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      It's been a couple yrs since I did mine, but if memory serves, I discovered that with the bolt out as far as possible, you could shove inward on that end of the arm and it will allow enough clearance to remove the bolt (frame holes are slotted).

      Can't help on the passenger side. Mine is the 2-pc...and, I only replaced the outer half that contains the ball joint...easy, peasy.
       
      Last edited: December 30, 2017
    6. 005h4rp

      005h4rp New Member

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      Ive been trying guys i cant get that bolt to clear shock tower on the right side left comes right out. Been trying to manipulate it and caress it out. Thinking just put it back as is
       
    7. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      LOL, I've replaced the driver's side upper control arm on 4 of our Expl's/Monty's and as Turdle said, getting the bolts out of the driver's side (I've never had to replace the passenger side rear UCA section yet) is frustrating, but trust me the bolts will come out with lots of fiddling and rotating of the plates.

      I find that taking the AC line clamp loose helps with the front ds bolt and popping the fuel line out of its plastic clips and pushing the fuel line out of the way a bit helps with the rear ds bolt. The bolts will only come out one way and you just have to stumble across what the way is.

      Once you get the passenger side nuts off it looks like the ps rear UCA piece might be easier to work with. Where I can't use my impact wrench, I use my 1/2 ratchet with a piece of pipe on the handle for stubborn nuts/bolts (hasn't failed me yet).

      BTW - The parts, process and effort required is identical no matter which Gen II Expl you're working on (4-dr Explorer, Sport, Mountaineer or Sport Trac). Keep fiddling, you'll get it. Be sure to take note of how which way the plates go and fit if you're reusing them. Personally I've only needed to install a chamber bolt kit once to achieve proper wheel alignment, but you may need them. The one vehicle an alignment shop did install a chamber kit on the new bolts came loose on me twice, ruining the front Michelin tires in short order (long story).
       
    8. swshawaii

      swshawaii Explorer Addict

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      All above replies are helpful and true. Countless people here have removed that UCA "bolt from hell". After disconnecting
      the hard line clips, get another set of hands to push in the UCA to gain the tiny distance needed for camber washer clearance.
      As koda mentioned, alignment must be checked after UCA bolts are removed and reinstalled. Like alignment toe, fractions of an inch matter, and it's splitting hairs to tenths of one degree.
       
      Last edited: December 30, 2017
    9. rathrbcruisin

      rathrbcruisin Active Member

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      It's been a while since i did it but i think i actually cut a couple of bolts because I was replacing them with the camber bolt kit. the stock bolt has that big washer connected to the bolt head which makes it a bitch to get out so i think i pulled it out as far as i could and then cut it. The new camber bolts I put in are like huge washers and not connected to the bolt so that made it easier to get it in.
       
    10. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      Well whatever worked for you, but there's no need to cut the bolts. You just need patients.
       
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    11. 005h4rp

      005h4rp New Member

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      Thank you guys for all your input..i thought i could get that bolt..unfortunately i ran time to short and needed truck so threw it together with existing part. It handles fine no problems but hate the worry definitely getting it done this wknd. I drive alot of hwy mi
       
    12. 005h4rp

      005h4rp New Member

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      Yeah that was the bitch giving me problem didnt think to cut it..i will try that.
       
    13. 005h4rp

      005h4rp New Member

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      I have lots of patience with it..just when you tried all angles to no avail im open to suggestions
       
    14. RandomNerd2000

      RandomNerd2000 Active Member

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      Push the UCA all the way in, and with some turning and wiggling it'll come out, it's easier after the first time you do it.
       
    15. reddi

      reddi Elite Explorer

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      Unless the Sport differs from the Ranger,Explorer front end go to 1A Auto. They have a great video.
       
    16. swshawaii

      swshawaii Explorer Addict

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      ^ 1A Auto video shows passenger side two piece UCA replacement with a one piece. OP's issue is removing the DRIVER side rear UCA bolt with shock tower and hard line interference. Different from passenger side and much more difficult.

      How to: - Replacing Camber/Caster Bolts
       
      Last edited: December 31, 2017
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    17. reddi

      reddi Elite Explorer

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      Having looked at my "96" in daylight I do see issues with lines and the shock tower. I stand corrected.
       
    18. 005h4rp

      005h4rp New Member

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      Ok so hypothetically if i were to cut that bolt out can i get the new one to slide in or is it gonna give me grief like it is coming out too? I intended on replacing bolts also just wondering
       
    19. swshawaii

      swshawaii Explorer Addict

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    20. rathrbcruisin

      rathrbcruisin Active Member

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      This is exactly what i did. Having patience is one thing, F'ing around with a damn bolt for hours getting no where is another. Cut it and be done with it.
       
    21. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      I've done this job 4 times on 4 different Gen II Explorers/Mountaineers and a Sport Trac. Getting the upper control arm bolts out is always a little tricky, but I don't think I've ever had to spend more than 5 mins trying to get an OE bolt out. When you find the right position it comes right out. I don't have any other suggestions. Good luck.
       
    22. XLTrunner

      XLTrunner Active Member

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      Agree with Koda...I did this for the first time on my Explorer and it took a little fussing until I discovered you could push the knuckle inward just enough to wiggle the bolt out. Since done it a couple other times at the JY when pulling suspension parts.
       

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