A/C clutch replacement.

[samish]

Thank for both of your reply.

I'll check under my hood and the links.

Sam

 

[samish]

Explorer, Ranger, A/C & Heater systems HVAC

I swapped the AC and fuel pump relay, since they are both the same. So that's how I tested it. I'm not in town, so can't get a picture, but if you open the hood, and find the fuse box on the driver side, near the firewall and the brake booster, you should be able to locate the relay easily using the guide in your user's manual. When it's NOT working, try touching it with a screwdriver. If the magnet grabs your screwdriver, then it's not the relay - the clutch just isn't engaging.

Hi, I found it. It is next to the pump relay. Since it looks the same, both relays, I swapped them. It make no different. The clutch cycle 2-3 seconds at a time, off and on, no matter which one of the relay I put on. I can hear the click inside the relay when the clutch cycled. Is this mean the relay still working? If it is, how can I test the clutch? Do you thing I need some freeon. Noticed when the clutch turns, I go some cool air. thx. Sam

 

[rizzjc]

Yes, that's the same thing I did. But I also checked the pressure and added some freon, and it's all good. Still cycles too fast, until it gets hot enough outside that it doesn't need to cycle at all. Occasionally though, it just shuts off. I turn off the AC and wait a minute or two, and turn it back on, and it's fine again for a while. I'm starting to suspect the temp sensor on the heat exchanger, but I don't know if that external or internal, or where it is.

 

[samish]

Explorer, Ranger, A/C & Heater systems HVAC

Yes, that's the same thing I did. But I also checked the pressure and added some freon, and it's all good. Still cycles too fast, until it gets hot enough outside that it doesn't need to cycle at all. Occasionally though, it just shuts off. I turn off the AC and wait a minute or two, and turn it back on, and it's fine again for a while. I'm starting to suspect the temp sensor on the heat exchanger, but I don't know if that external or internal, or where it is.

Thanks. I took another exact relay from the towing slot which I don't need, put it on to the AC clutch slot. The clutch still going off/on. I'm going to get some freon and charge it in and see what happen. If not, I'm going to replace the clutch as you did. Will update this once I'm done.

 

[rizzjc]

The fast cycle isn't going to be because of the clutch.

 

[TheJackal]

...I just recently did this on my 91...I just used the old out clutch part and screw to press it on with...

I might have to replace mine soon and am curious about this too... It'd be nice to be able to replace the clutch without removing the compressor, but I hope that doing it this way won't strip threads off anything...

 

[rizzjc]

I might have to replace mine soon and am curious about this too... It'd be nice to be able to replace the clutch without removing the compressor, but I hope that doing it this way won't strip threads off anything...

Didn't for me. Nice and gentle. It actually doesn't take a lot of force, but it gets the job done.

 

[Tbars4]

...I second it being nice and gentle...You are just using the old part as a specialty tool that you would normally rent..

 

[TheJackal]

Cool, thanx guys.

Gotta add this to the list of things that need to get done...

 

[Ziggie]

AC Clutch replacement

Howdy Rizzjc! You are my favorite guy today! Your instruction on the AC clutch replacement were right on! It's a real bugger, but you gave me faith that I could do it. My hubby gave up screaming after the first half hour, but the bearing on our pulley had granaded making it so much worse, so I give him a pass. I have a little more patience because I am used to working on my Jag, (everything needs a shoehorn in there). So anyway, I love this forum, and I love you guys. Thank you VERY MUCH!

P.S. I have also found great info on this site for replacing my lower ball joints which worked like a dream, and a quick fix for the blender door if it acts up again.

 

[rizzjc]

Glad you got it working, but it's a group effort! Now if I could figure out why the AC is cycling too often, and then not always turning on (still), I'd be happy, but mostly it works. Unfortunately my rear main seal blew, so I can't drive the truck much until I fix that ... and I really don't want to do it.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Sorry to bump an old thread but every forum i'm on they say to search... so this is what popped up..

Where did you get your clutch replacement and what brand did you go with...


I see three different ones on RockAuto rangeing from $50 all the way up to $120... did it also come with shims?

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

[rizzjc]

I think I just picked it up at the local auto parts store, but that was a while back.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Since it's hot outside, I wanted to bump this thread. I'm sure that it will help a lot of people. I just did this job on my 1995 van yesterday. I'm going to provide more information on removing & installing the clutch with diagrams.

 

[tac40]

...I just recently did this on my 91...I just used the old out clutch part and screw to press it on with...

Thanks for the info. I just finished doing this on my '97 (without removing the compressor or opening the system). The trouble I had was getting the coil completely seated without the bolt stripping/breaking. I was able to get it pressed on within about 3/16" of where it was supposed to go but that's it.

I found a way to gain just enough access to it from the front of the vehicle through an existing hole in the radiator core support. I placed a 4" PVC clean-out plug on the coil assembly and used a long 1/2"-drive extension and a few light taps with a hammer. This drove it the rest of the way on to the compressor. Had to first pull the grill and loosen the radiator to do it, but here's how:

--mike

 

[rizzjc]

Great tip! I've fought with that one myself.

 

[daffy]

On my 2000, the field coil still works fine, just the bearings are shot, and the pulley is really wobbly. Do you think I could just swap the pulley / bearings, and leave the current field coil (which seems to be the hardest part of this job)?

I'd be willing to shell out the extra $$$ for the Ford part, if it out be that easy...

 

[SoHK_alumni]

On my 2000, the field coil still works fine, just the bearings are shot, and the pulley is really wobbly. Do you think I could just swap the pulley / bearings, and leave the current field coil (which seems to be the hardest part of this job)?

I'd be willing to shell out the extra $$$ for the Ford part, if it out be that easy...

No reason not to reuse the coil. Pull a used clutch at a u-pull-it and use that, or pull the pulley, match up the bearing and just replace that.

Third option, there are auto a/c suppliers that sell the components, just buy a pulley, or pulley bearing from one of them.

 

[rizzjc]

You have to be careful because some odd the aftermarket parts don't fit the same, so you'd have to replace both parts. I don't recall the pulley being replaceable without pulling the cool off.

 

[daffy]

I ended up using SoHK_alumni's suggestion, $4 at a u-pull gets me a new(er) OEM pulley + clutch. Nice and quiet now.

I figure my 201,000+ mile ex won't survive another one, but if it does, it's an easy enough swap without the coil.