-
Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks.
Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac,
Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar.
Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
Register Today It's free!
A4LD rebuild for the poor man (or lady).
- Thread starter K80
- Start date
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!.
- Joined
- November 11, 2005
- Messages
- 56,691
- Reaction score
- 1,186
- City, State
- Brooklyn, NY
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 88 89 93 95 96 Aerostars
Maybe you might like WWW.Drivingmeinsane.Com to unwind?
K80
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- March 18, 2007
- Messages
- 118
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Oklahoma City, Ok
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1989 Aerostar
If you have to ask I probably shouldn't tell you.....
Actually, that board tends to wind me up, as there is nothing I like more than a reasoned debate -yet most of the people on there seem to have less than a nodding acquaintance with reason....
- Joined
- February 8, 2003
- Messages
- 9,824
- Reaction score
- 84
- City, State
- Sacramento, CA 95827
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1992 XLT
I'm likin' this lady.
cloaked_chaos
Elite Explorer
- Joined
- October 4, 2006
- Messages
- 509
- Reaction score
- 4
- City, State
- Phoenix, Arizona
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 94 4x4 Limited
K80
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- March 18, 2007
- Messages
- 118
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Oklahoma City, Ok
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1989 Aerostar
And the grand finale....
Well. It's been two days, and after a relatively smooth rebuild, my A4LD is back together. A synopsis of the process follows:
1. The rebuild kit did arrive on Monday, just in a different run. Seems packages get delivered separately here....who knew?
2.Tore open the grab bag from CT Powertrain in Sacramento, Ca. It is important to note what this super rebuild kit does not come with that would have been nice: Snaprings. None at all. There were at least a half dozen snaprings I wanted to replace but I couldn't. OD clutch plates and frictions. These were nearly new in my tranny, but I got lucky....If I'd pulled a Brain (see Glacier's A4LD rebuild diary about half-way through) and smoked my OD assembly instead of low/reverse I'd have been up the ol' crappy creek.
It does come with all of the other soft parts. It even came with replacement o-rings for the bellhousing bolts. Course, it also came with some gasket-like things which, given their number and size, I assume could only be for the bellhousing bolts as well!
So question: should I have used both? The nature of the parts was such that if I'd done so, the gaskets would have obscured the little channel depression where the o-rings seat. and I clearly could not have put the gaskets on over the o-rings, because then what's the point of having o-rings?
The kit came with a new filter and pan gasket, all of the fiber and metal seals for the center support, pump, and extension housing. One funny thing, though. The frictions I ordered were Borg-Warner and I got more than a full set of frictions for the reverse\high clutch. I got exactly six frictions and six plates (all were Alto steels) that matched, but there were three frictions which, while it was clear they were for the high/reverse, they were missing sets of three teeth at regular intervals. I'd been asking CT over the phone about differences between the Raybestos and B.W. frictions, and though there were no other differences between the "whole" frictions and the other three, I'm guessing that the guy just threw in an extra set of three from Raybestos so I could see for myself why he recommended B.W.
The soft parts came from Transtech, as did the sealing rings. A modulator was also thrown in, which I'm quite thankful for. The kit also would have come with two bushings (can't recall which ones at the moment) but since I had no intention of replacing them due to their condition and due also to the fact that I don't have any bushing tools, I asked them to keep the bushings and give me a No. 3 or 4 trust washer because the original was fried. Because the washer right there is selective, he did not know which one to send me. I ended up with one little more than half the thickness of the original. Oh, well....beats what was in there.
Holy crap! I was just looking at the parts list they have on Ebay...Seems the kit was supposed to come with the frictions and steels for the OD, and the modulator was supposed to be the adjustable kind....damn. See now I feel bad because it means more waiting maybe. Or I may just say hell with it and call it good. Who knows?
3. I discovered a very easy and cheap alternative to the metal monster Glacier produced to compress the clutch springs. Use a well-lubed 6" c-clamp and any suitable brace to go across the plate face. I used a remnant from a cheap pocket tool set -the standard screwdriver shank from this kit was perfect for the brace and there was no damage and no sweat. There was so much room left around this contraption I almost got the snapring in by hand!
4. I discovered one should not allow one's cats to roost on the main body of the transmission while it is apart.....
5. Using a rubberband to keep the intermediate and overdrive bands from expanding while you're trying to seat the apply and anchor struts is a time saver. To remove the rubberband, simply cut it. Don't rip it because a piece might end up inside the tranny and need to be fished out.
6. If you have nether engine stand nor special Ford part number blah-blah-blah to hold the tranny while you build it up, you can stand it up on the output shaft on a slat-backed wooden chair once you have installed the first snapring on the shaft.
7. Sticking the center support in the freezer to size it is an ABSOLUTE must. Leave it in the freezer for half an hour (Au gets cold fast) and before you try to wriggle it in, let it sit on the seal lip of the forward ring gear for a minute or two so the cold can transfer to the seals on the forward ring. At first, I thought the freezer would be a bad Idea because rubber expands in the cold. But the purpose of freezing it is to stiffen the rubber so it won't roll on you. The expansion is nominal, and more than worth the trade in stiffness. Use the input shaft to jiggle (Engineering term there) the forward gear assembly under the center support and allow its' own weight to settle it in. DO NOT GET PISSED AND FORCE IT! No matter how long it takes, it will go in eventually.
8. The valve body is a puckfist. The first part in bore 207 went in the first time, but when I had to remove it to help withdraw the wrong part I put in after the first spring (watch it -the manual I was using for this was for the 1992 model Aerostar A4LD tranny...just three years difference from my 1989, but there were several changes made in the V.B. during that time. MAKE SURE you bag and label the parts from each bore. Don't rely on a manual as your sole source of information for re-assembling the V.B.) it REFUSED to go back in. After about an hour of trying every trick in the book I could think of to get the S.O.B. installed, I grabbed my torx driver and it was a PERFECT fit for that particular bore...so I used it to jam the part into the bore. Had to pound it in with a rubber mallet. An Au shaving the size of a fingernail clipping fell out when the damn part went in, but it was that or no tranny and no car so no work so being homeless. I'll risk pounding it. I would NOT recommend that course of action under any other circumstances.
9. The most tedious task is getting ALL TRACES of the old gasket material off of the separator plate and tranny housing. It really should be done though, because if you're like me you don't have a torque wrench with which to measure how tight the fasteners are going on, so the pressure balance needs all the help it can get. That's right -no torque wrench. However, I do have enough experience with T.W.'s to be able to guess within a few pounds how much torque is being applied, as well as being able to ensure a consistent pressure across the V.B. mating surfaces. And also, be sure to tighten the bolts in sequence from the inside out to make sure the gaskets seat properly.
Also, if you are going by the manual found at the link provided earlier in this thread, it says you should install the low/reverse servo early on. Bullshit. In order to install the V.B., the separator plate must go on under the gasket and cap for the servo. If you need the servo in to line up the notches on the low/reverse band correctly, just use the piston and cap w/o the spring and gasket.
10. So I guess that's it, except for installing the tranny. I'll let you guys know how it all turns out.
And one other question: Should I be able to manually turn the big shaft the input shaft goes into? I'm not sure, but it looks as though that shaft goes to one gear in the pump and that's it....so shouldn't I be able to turn it? I can spin the output shaft both ways (though the result is clock-wise one way, AND clock wise the other...one way is easy, the other way is hard. I think that much is correct, at least, and indicates proper assembly of the tranny). It's just that damn pump shaft that has me worried....any Ideas, anybody?
Well. It's been two days, and after a relatively smooth rebuild, my A4LD is back together. A synopsis of the process follows:
1. The rebuild kit did arrive on Monday, just in a different run. Seems packages get delivered separately here....who knew?
2.Tore open the grab bag from CT Powertrain in Sacramento, Ca. It is important to note what this super rebuild kit does not come with that would have been nice: Snaprings. None at all. There were at least a half dozen snaprings I wanted to replace but I couldn't. OD clutch plates and frictions. These were nearly new in my tranny, but I got lucky....If I'd pulled a Brain (see Glacier's A4LD rebuild diary about half-way through) and smoked my OD assembly instead of low/reverse I'd have been up the ol' crappy creek.
It does come with all of the other soft parts. It even came with replacement o-rings for the bellhousing bolts. Course, it also came with some gasket-like things which, given their number and size, I assume could only be for the bellhousing bolts as well!
So question: should I have used both? The nature of the parts was such that if I'd done so, the gaskets would have obscured the little channel depression where the o-rings seat. and I clearly could not have put the gaskets on over the o-rings, because then what's the point of having o-rings?
The kit came with a new filter and pan gasket, all of the fiber and metal seals for the center support, pump, and extension housing. One funny thing, though. The frictions I ordered were Borg-Warner and I got more than a full set of frictions for the reverse\high clutch. I got exactly six frictions and six plates (all were Alto steels) that matched, but there were three frictions which, while it was clear they were for the high/reverse, they were missing sets of three teeth at regular intervals. I'd been asking CT over the phone about differences between the Raybestos and B.W. frictions, and though there were no other differences between the "whole" frictions and the other three, I'm guessing that the guy just threw in an extra set of three from Raybestos so I could see for myself why he recommended B.W.
The soft parts came from Transtech, as did the sealing rings. A modulator was also thrown in, which I'm quite thankful for. The kit also would have come with two bushings (can't recall which ones at the moment) but since I had no intention of replacing them due to their condition and due also to the fact that I don't have any bushing tools, I asked them to keep the bushings and give me a No. 3 or 4 trust washer because the original was fried. Because the washer right there is selective, he did not know which one to send me. I ended up with one little more than half the thickness of the original. Oh, well....beats what was in there.
Holy crap! I was just looking at the parts list they have on Ebay...Seems the kit was supposed to come with the frictions and steels for the OD, and the modulator was supposed to be the adjustable kind....damn. See now I feel bad because it means more waiting maybe. Or I may just say hell with it and call it good. Who knows?
3. I discovered a very easy and cheap alternative to the metal monster Glacier produced to compress the clutch springs. Use a well-lubed 6" c-clamp and any suitable brace to go across the plate face. I used a remnant from a cheap pocket tool set -the standard screwdriver shank from this kit was perfect for the brace and there was no damage and no sweat. There was so much room left around this contraption I almost got the snapring in by hand!
4. I discovered one should not allow one's cats to roost on the main body of the transmission while it is apart.....
5. Using a rubberband to keep the intermediate and overdrive bands from expanding while you're trying to seat the apply and anchor struts is a time saver. To remove the rubberband, simply cut it. Don't rip it because a piece might end up inside the tranny and need to be fished out.
6. If you have nether engine stand nor special Ford part number blah-blah-blah to hold the tranny while you build it up, you can stand it up on the output shaft on a slat-backed wooden chair once you have installed the first snapring on the shaft.
7. Sticking the center support in the freezer to size it is an ABSOLUTE must. Leave it in the freezer for half an hour (Au gets cold fast) and before you try to wriggle it in, let it sit on the seal lip of the forward ring gear for a minute or two so the cold can transfer to the seals on the forward ring. At first, I thought the freezer would be a bad Idea because rubber expands in the cold. But the purpose of freezing it is to stiffen the rubber so it won't roll on you. The expansion is nominal, and more than worth the trade in stiffness. Use the input shaft to jiggle (Engineering term there) the forward gear assembly under the center support and allow its' own weight to settle it in. DO NOT GET PISSED AND FORCE IT! No matter how long it takes, it will go in eventually.
8. The valve body is a puckfist. The first part in bore 207 went in the first time, but when I had to remove it to help withdraw the wrong part I put in after the first spring (watch it -the manual I was using for this was for the 1992 model Aerostar A4LD tranny...just three years difference from my 1989, but there were several changes made in the V.B. during that time. MAKE SURE you bag and label the parts from each bore. Don't rely on a manual as your sole source of information for re-assembling the V.B.) it REFUSED to go back in. After about an hour of trying every trick in the book I could think of to get the S.O.B. installed, I grabbed my torx driver and it was a PERFECT fit for that particular bore...so I used it to jam the part into the bore. Had to pound it in with a rubber mallet. An Au shaving the size of a fingernail clipping fell out when the damn part went in, but it was that or no tranny and no car so no work so being homeless. I'll risk pounding it. I would NOT recommend that course of action under any other circumstances.
9. The most tedious task is getting ALL TRACES of the old gasket material off of the separator plate and tranny housing. It really should be done though, because if you're like me you don't have a torque wrench with which to measure how tight the fasteners are going on, so the pressure balance needs all the help it can get. That's right -no torque wrench. However, I do have enough experience with T.W.'s to be able to guess within a few pounds how much torque is being applied, as well as being able to ensure a consistent pressure across the V.B. mating surfaces. And also, be sure to tighten the bolts in sequence from the inside out to make sure the gaskets seat properly.
Also, if you are going by the manual found at the link provided earlier in this thread, it says you should install the low/reverse servo early on. Bullshit. In order to install the V.B., the separator plate must go on under the gasket and cap for the servo. If you need the servo in to line up the notches on the low/reverse band correctly, just use the piston and cap w/o the spring and gasket.
10. So I guess that's it, except for installing the tranny. I'll let you guys know how it all turns out.
And one other question: Should I be able to manually turn the big shaft the input shaft goes into? I'm not sure, but it looks as though that shaft goes to one gear in the pump and that's it....so shouldn't I be able to turn it? I can spin the output shaft both ways (though the result is clock-wise one way, AND clock wise the other...one way is easy, the other way is hard. I think that much is correct, at least, and indicates proper assembly of the tranny). It's just that damn pump shaft that has me worried....any Ideas, anybody?
- Joined
- November 11, 2005
- Messages
- 56,691
- Reaction score
- 1,186
- City, State
- Brooklyn, NY
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 88 89 93 95 96 Aerostars
Are you referring to the one way sprag on the coast clutch? If so, then it should only turn in one direction. I hope that you didn't open the front pump. That will require a special alignment tool. The torque converter hub, and pump gears could get damaged if it's not properly aligned. Those O rings on the bolts are used with the flat, soft disk style washers. There is a groove on the bolt for the O ring to go into so that it makes a perfect fit. As for the torque wrench, it is a necessity. You need it for the valve body bolts, pan bolts so that they don't get stripped, and for adjusting the overdrive, and intermediate bands. Harbor Freight sells a low cost 1/4" drive torque wrench.
K80
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- March 18, 2007
- Messages
- 118
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Oklahoma City, Ok
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1989 Aerostar
Ahh! Well, the nearest Harbor Freight to here is in Topeka....My D.D. is down so I can't get there....The only two sprags I know of are in the end of the internal assemblies and also in the O.D. drum. I did NOT disassemble the
pump, but there's a shaft in the bellhousing that is bigger around than any of the other shafts in the tranny...I cannot turn it one way or the other, and have not been able to do so since I took the tranny down. Should this turn in ANY direction? If it won't, does that mean my pump is seized or fried? I took care of the adjusting bands by taking a long 5/16ths wrench and tightening it while I could still see and touch the straps (one at a time) from the front of the tranny, while actuating the appropriate servos by hand. In this way I was able to determine roughly how hard to tighten the adj. bolt. Then a 2-turn back-off, then a servo test....and all is well in A4LD land.
:K80
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- March 18, 2007
- Messages
- 118
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Oklahoma City, Ok
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1989 Aerostar
A rotten discovery....
Upon close examination under a very bright light, I was able to see that in two places around the pump shaft along the inside bore there's a seal that is deformed and protruding into the shaftguide. I think I found the place where the tranny fluid erupted into the bellhousing.....anyone have a front pump alignment tool lying around they could ship to me for a couple of days? I have to take the pump apart now, because whether it should turn manually or not is now moot because of the seal damage.....****!
Upon close examination under a very bright light, I was able to see that in two places around the pump shaft along the inside bore there's a seal that is deformed and protruding into the shaftguide. I think I found the place where the tranny fluid erupted into the bellhousing.....anyone have a front pump alignment tool lying around they could ship to me for a couple of days? I have to take the pump apart now, because whether it should turn manually or not is now moot because of the seal damage.....****!
K80
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- March 18, 2007
- Messages
- 118
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Oklahoma City, Ok
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1989 Aerostar
God, I'm an idiot.....
Okay, folks -prepare to cringe: I took the front pump apart and THERE IS NO SEAL where I thought I was seeing one. Instead, what I saw was the flat spots on the smaller ring where the T.C. hooks up.....But check this out...before I took the pump apart, I used the tip of a pencil to gauge the gap around the shaft between it and the front pump seal by jamming it down a bit in two spots 180o opposed and looked at the edges of the grease spot left on the wedge-shaped tip. The pump body left a big ring on the plate under it, and once I was able to determine that there was nothing amiss about the pump, I put it right back on that grease ring. The bellhousing bolts edge up to the pump body PERFECTLY if you put them in from the back side of the bellhousing to use as guides to align the pump. Checked the tightened position with a fresh pencil and the depth of the marks is IDENTICAL down to the smallest fraction of length my ruler can measure. I must conclude that I've done the best it's possible to do without the proper tool.....we shall see in 10K miles or so....IF it makes it that far, that is.....
I know, I know, I'm an idiot.....but you haven't heard the worst yet....The shaft turning question? HELL NO it doesn't turn because it is part of the pump body! DUH!!!:
Okay, folks -prepare to cringe: I took the front pump apart and THERE IS NO SEAL where I thought I was seeing one. Instead, what I saw was the flat spots on the smaller ring where the T.C. hooks up.....But check this out...before I took the pump apart, I used the tip of a pencil to gauge the gap around the shaft between it and the front pump seal by jamming it down a bit in two spots 180o opposed and looked at the edges of the grease spot left on the wedge-shaped tip. The pump body left a big ring on the plate under it, and once I was able to determine that there was nothing amiss about the pump, I put it right back on that grease ring. The bellhousing bolts edge up to the pump body PERFECTLY if you put them in from the back side of the bellhousing to use as guides to align the pump. Checked the tightened position with a fresh pencil and the depth of the marks is IDENTICAL down to the smallest fraction of length my ruler can measure. I must conclude that I've done the best it's possible to do without the proper tool.....we shall see in 10K miles or so....IF it makes it that far, that is.....
I know, I know, I'm an idiot.....but you haven't heard the worst yet....The shaft turning question? HELL NO it doesn't turn because it is part of the pump body! DUH!!!
:- Joined
- February 8, 2003
- Messages
- 9,824
- Reaction score
- 84
- City, State
- Sacramento, CA 95827
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1992 XLT
I just read your earlier posts. I was going to tell you what you just discovered - that shaft is part of the pump with is bolted to the case, does not move, and splines into the convertor stator.
Shoot me an address and I will send you a pump alignment tool to use for reassembly if you wish.. and a 1/4 inch torque wrnech for the VB.
Shoot me an address and I will send you a pump alignment tool to use for reassembly if you wish.. and a 1/4 inch torque wrnech for the VB.
K80
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- March 18, 2007
- Messages
- 118
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Oklahoma City, Ok
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1989 Aerostar
You rock....
Man, that's *****n'! :notworthyThanx alot! It'd be a big help right now....
Man, that's *****n'! :notworthyThanx alot! It'd be a big help right now....
K80
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- March 18, 2007
- Messages
- 118
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Oklahoma City, Ok
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1989 Aerostar
Whoa...
Man. Lemme tell you guys something....
Whenever you go on any extended driving trip (say, two hours drive or more), you should always roll with a friend, and if you like to, always bring along a little something to smoke. Now, if you follow these rules as strictly as possible you will eventually compile a set of Blattodeas wherever it is you habitually place them. Due to the nature of their effects, they can become forgotten easily and accumulate in a pile of impressive proportions.
Anyone who knows what I mean understands the subtle differences between batches of smoke, and also understands that to combine them generally tends to compound their effects in proportion to their initial quality.
I just went hunting because I've actually run out of smoke, and thought it would be nice to have some. Gulliver has not been at my house for some time now, and though I'd speculated with my roommate about the possibilities of leftovers from our last several trips to wherever, the time they were discussed never seemed to coincide with the need or desire to walk all the way to where Gulliver is just to possibly retrieve some. Like maybe one or two.
So I got bored earlier and started fidgeting. That is not a good sign, because for me it usually indicates the increasing desire to get up and do something. And as I'm sure anyone following this thread probably recognizes by now, when I get a wild hair it's not like what happens when most other people do. See, "Normal" people, when they get that hair they go to the store and do the shopping, or weed the garden, paint the door, wash the car, etc. Something relatively quick and easy. Sensible. Safe.
Not I. I do those things too, but only in passing on the way to what I get an itch for....Like this rebuild...Yes, my tranny fried; but what would a "normal" person have done there? Well, I can't really say for sure, but I could have had Gulliver towed right to the junkyard for free and got $50 besides. If I thought differently than I do, that may even have seemed like my sole option. But no. I considered the only option to be getting off the highway, getting to a covered garage, and rebuilding the tranny. All right at the time it happened. I had the plan in my head before I was through getting up after seeing my tranny fluid frying on the exhaust. Without pause for the fact that I'd never even worked on a transmission before, yet I was fully aware of the fact that the automatic transaxle is the single most complex and mechanically intolerant device in the whole car.
When my brakes started to go out, I changed them -having never done brakes before.
When I was younger, I would perform acts of physical exertion that made people tired just watching me. One of these days I'll tell you the story of the Mothers' Day Driftwood, and it's significance relating to the Bainbridge Island Driftwood. But those stories are for another thread another time.
My point was that when I get a wild hair, ANYTHING could happen.
A menial chore, or a grand adventure....so back to why I started this post to begin with: I finally went to Gulliver to see about some leftovers because I'm out. Know what I found? Enough Blattodeas to not be out for a while....AND DAMN!!!:bdrunk: Okay, so I'm not drunk....but I'm sure you get the Idea....
Man. Lemme tell you guys something....
Whenever you go on any extended driving trip (say, two hours drive or more), you should always roll with a friend, and if you like to, always bring along a little something to smoke. Now, if you follow these rules as strictly as possible you will eventually compile a set of Blattodeas wherever it is you habitually place them. Due to the nature of their effects, they can become forgotten easily and accumulate in a pile of impressive proportions.
Anyone who knows what I mean understands the subtle differences between batches of smoke, and also understands that to combine them generally tends to compound their effects in proportion to their initial quality.
I just went hunting because I've actually run out of smoke, and thought it would be nice to have some. Gulliver has not been at my house for some time now, and though I'd speculated with my roommate about the possibilities of leftovers from our last several trips to wherever, the time they were discussed never seemed to coincide with the need or desire to walk all the way to where Gulliver is just to possibly retrieve some. Like maybe one or two.
So I got bored earlier and started fidgeting. That is not a good sign, because for me it usually indicates the increasing desire to get up and do something. And as I'm sure anyone following this thread probably recognizes by now, when I get a wild hair it's not like what happens when most other people do. See, "Normal" people, when they get that hair they go to the store and do the shopping, or weed the garden, paint the door, wash the car, etc. Something relatively quick and easy. Sensible. Safe.
Not I. I do those things too, but only in passing on the way to what I get an itch for....Like this rebuild...Yes, my tranny fried; but what would a "normal" person have done there? Well, I can't really say for sure, but I could have had Gulliver towed right to the junkyard for free and got $50 besides. If I thought differently than I do, that may even have seemed like my sole option. But no. I considered the only option to be getting off the highway, getting to a covered garage, and rebuilding the tranny. All right at the time it happened. I had the plan in my head before I was through getting up after seeing my tranny fluid frying on the exhaust. Without pause for the fact that I'd never even worked on a transmission before, yet I was fully aware of the fact that the automatic transaxle is the single most complex and mechanically intolerant device in the whole car.
When my brakes started to go out, I changed them -having never done brakes before.
When I was younger, I would perform acts of physical exertion that made people tired just watching me. One of these days I'll tell you the story of the Mothers' Day Driftwood, and it's significance relating to the Bainbridge Island Driftwood. But those stories are for another thread another time.
My point was that when I get a wild hair, ANYTHING could happen.
A menial chore, or a grand adventure....so back to why I started this post to begin with: I finally went to Gulliver to see about some leftovers because I'm out. Know what I found? Enough Blattodeas to not be out for a while....AND DAMN!!!:bdrunk: Okay, so I'm not drunk....but I'm sure you get the Idea....K80
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- March 18, 2007
- Messages
- 118
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Oklahoma City, Ok
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1989 Aerostar
K80
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- March 18, 2007
- Messages
- 118
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Oklahoma City, Ok
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1989 Aerostar
Sorry 4 the wait....
Hey, folks....sorry for the wait. Glacier and I have been playing mail-tag with bits and pieces and such, so it will be Monday or Tuesday before I get something productive up here, but it's all in the name of GET IT RIGHT, so it's all good. Hang in there.
Hey, folks....sorry for the wait. Glacier and I have been playing mail-tag with bits and pieces and such, so it will be Monday or Tuesday before I get something productive up here, but it's all in the name of GET IT RIGHT, so it's all good. Hang in there.
- Joined
- November 11, 2005
- Messages
- 56,691
- Reaction score
- 1,186
- City, State
- Brooklyn, NY
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 88 89 93 95 96 Aerostars
WWW.Eppys.Com sells them. Check Autozone. They might have them too. What part needs an 8 point socket?
K80
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- March 18, 2007
- Messages
- 118
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Oklahoma City, Ok
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1989 Aerostar
Found one....
Online is not an option right now (no credit card), but I finally did find a place here in town with an 8-pt. 5/16ths socket....Napa. I need it to torque the adjusting screws for the int. and OD straps....those have a square head and a standard socket won't fit. I consider that the single most "FORD"-like thing Ford has done with this tranny....They instruct you to use a torque wrench on the part, but make it a square head instead of hex....What; two more planes THAT hard to do? A$$holes!
Online is not an option right now (no credit card), but I finally did find a place here in town with an 8-pt. 5/16ths socket....Napa. I need it to torque the adjusting screws for the int. and OD straps....those have a square head and a standard socket won't fit. I consider that the single most "FORD"-like thing Ford has done with this tranny....They instruct you to use a torque wrench on the part, but make it a square head instead of hex....What; two more planes THAT hard to do? A$$holes!
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!.
K80
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- March 18, 2007
- Messages
- 118
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Oklahoma City, Ok
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1989 Aerostar
Complete....almost
Got the tranny back together...I really wanted to be able to get some pictures up, and I may have been able to but neither of my digi-cams are worth a pisshole in a snow bank. I have a camcorder, but no power supply. As this is my daily driver and it has already been down for over a month, I cannot afford to suffer any more delays. I must have Gulliver up and running by the end of this week or I'm totally screwed. Not to mention, it SNOWED--FU@#ING SNOWED--this morning. It's been cold as HELL lately....a couple days back, it got colder here than Lawrence got at any time during the whole "winter" season! 10 degrees Fahrenheit! It set records...But of course, during the whole three weeks I was working on the tranny indoors in my living room, it stayed a balmy 75 degrees outside...go figure.
Anyway, I'm going to get this tranny up and in as soon as I can, and we will find out if it worked well enough soon after. Stay tuned.
Got the tranny back together...I really wanted to be able to get some pictures up, and I may have been able to but neither of my digi-cams are worth a pisshole in a snow bank. I have a camcorder, but no power supply. As this is my daily driver and it has already been down for over a month, I cannot afford to suffer any more delays. I must have Gulliver up and running by the end of this week or I'm totally screwed. Not to mention, it SNOWED--FU@#ING SNOWED--this morning. It's been cold as HELL lately....a couple days back, it got colder here than Lawrence got at any time during the whole "winter" season! 10 degrees Fahrenheit! It set records...But of course, during the whole three weeks I was working on the tranny indoors in my living room, it stayed a balmy 75 degrees outside...go figure.
Anyway, I'm going to get this tranny up and in as soon as I can, and we will find out if it worked well enough soon after. Stay tuned.
Featured images
Featured images
