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hey all- I got my wife a used 2013 Ford Explorer Base 4 x 4 with the trailer tow package. It has the 17 inch steel wheels with hubcaps which I hate. But the tires were brand-new from the dealer when I bought it. I hate to throw away brand-new tires so I'm thinking of upgrading the wheels to some 17 inch aluminum wheels but I have no idea what to get. I'd like something that is gunmetal gray. I do not like all black or flat black. I also contemplated looking at a junkyard for take off 17 or 18 inch aluminum wheels for the explore also. I looked in the wheel and tire section I do not see anything there. Can anybody make any recommendations on wheels and or post any pictures of their ride with aftermarket wheels and a type of wheel it is?
 






hey all- I got my wife a used 2013 Ford Explorer Base 4 x 4 with the trailer tow package. It has the 17 inch steel wheels with hubcaps which I hate. But the tires were brand-new from the dealer when I bought it. I hate to throw away brand-new tires so I'm thinking of upgrading the wheels to some 17 inch aluminum wheels but I have no idea what to get. I'd like something that is gunmetal gray. I do not like all black or flat black. I also contemplated looking at a junkyard for take off 17 or 18 inch aluminum wheels for the explore also. I looked in the wheel and tire section I do not see anything there. Can anybody make any recommendations on wheels and or post any pictures of their ride with aftermarket wheels and a type of wheel it is?
Welcome to the Forum Dave.:wave:
As indicated, your thread has been merged with this one found using the Forum's 'Search' feature (upper right). There are a few more threads on aftermarket wheels in both the 'Modified' and 'Discussion' sub forums. Many pictures however have disappeared because 3rd party posting sites were used. The pictures in this thread are mainly of larger wheels but they may available in 17" sizes. If you go with 18" then you will not be able to use those new tires you have. Good luck.

Peter
 






Couldn't be happier with how my wheel set up turned out! Went with the Velgen VMB6 in Satin Bronze. 20x10.5 et +45. More pictures to come!

15230815_10211164579007789_2328186074265311266_n.jpg
 






Those look really nice, but what about those Michigan winter roads on them?
 






Those look really nice, but what about those Michigan winter roads on them?

Im not running a low profile tire and if the finish gets messed up ill just have them re powder coated. Im not to concerned though so im just going to run them all year round!
 






Nice looking ride and wheels... I pulled my Factory Sport rims and went with Assults ( set for summer and winter) with factory tires on summer and blizzacks on for winter.

If you know anyone looking for a set of OEM Sport 20" takes off point em in my direction.
 






Looks good man, love them? I told you them make a great wheel! Pictures don't do the offset justice, what size tire did you end up getting? 295/45?

When are the springs getting put on?

Couldn't be happier with how my wheel set up turned out! Went with the Velgen VMB6 in Satin Bronze. 20x10.5 et +45. More pictures to come!

15230815_10211164579007789_2328186074265311266_n.jpg
 












Looks good man, love them? I told you them make a great wheel! Pictures don't do the offset justice, what size tire did you end up getting? 295/45?

When are the springs getting put on?


Thank you! And i already have H&R Explorer lowering springs on it, lol! Maybe its hard to tell. :dunno:

And yes, i did end up running the 295/45 r20 just like you!
 












.... Larger wheels also put more strain on the brake system. This is primarily why the 3% maximum was put in place.
Peter

Peter- can you reference some data supporting either of those claims?
My understanding, and quick Google search, suggests that larger wheels (within the constraints of this vehicle) have negligible effect on the braking system. The overall wheel/tire diameter is essentially unchanged and the brakes are still fully capable of stopping the rotation of the assembly ("locking up the brakes").

Larger wheels/tires will definitely change the ride and handling characteristics- and not always "better", btw. Smaller wheels tend to yield quicker 0-60 times and taller sidewalls will tend to give a more compliant ride. Finally, if the rest of the suspension is not tuned to the tires, it is possible for the increased grip of an oversized tire to actually decrease the overall lateral acceleration of the vehicle because of the changed loads on the other tires as the body roll is altered due to the increased grip of the outer tires. Or at least that is my understanding of it all. I am up for learning something new though...
 






I believe the brake issue applies to those combinations that exceed the 3%. Here is an excerpt from Tire Rack;
"And finally, the maximum Plus Size applications for pickup trucks and sport utility vehicles result in wheel and tire combinations that are significantly heavier than the vehicle's Original Equipment (O.E.) tires and wheels. This increase in weight can lead to longer stopping distances, as well as increased suspension and brake wear."
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=25

There are a couple of tire size calculation sites that mention exceeding 3% could lead to brake failure.
1010tires.com; When changing tire sizes, we recommend staying within 3% of the diameter/height of the original tire. Any more than this and you face the risk of brake failure.
sizemytires.com; You should never go beyond 3% of the original tire, otherwise you run the risk of brake failure.
I don't know why 3% seems to be the magic number. Perhaps it has to do with weight tolerance. I personally wasn't aware of that number until I started playing with the tire size calculator when looking for my initial Winter wheels and tire for the 2011 Ex I had.
On the 2017 and 2017 models you can, with the right tool, go in and select preprogramed tires sizes that will update some items such as the ABS module to account for the tire size change. This has been mentioned in a couple of posts.

Peter
 






Yep- those are the same numbers from various sources who are simply restating the idea without any data to support it... There was/is some support for the 3% limit on changing overall tire/wheel diameter. Without re-calibrating the speedometer/odometer, a significant change in diameter will result in an under/over reporting of speed and distance traveled.
 






one word, "liability", no one wants to be on the hook for a flipped Explorer etc. Locking up the brakes is different from modulating them, locking up brakes will give a longer stopping distance.
Getting wheels without proper ventilation thru the spokes is probably worse than +3% oversize rims/tires but that's the last thing people have on their mind after losing their brakes due to over heating on a steep hill, so that one slips by :D. That's why some manufacturers have directions spokes/slats on their rims to aid in cooling and try to place their brakes closer to the outside of the wheel because of the airflow there.
 












Quick question:
With the +45 offset (45mm?), the rotors stay in the same location relative to the vehicle? The offset is achieved by "moving" the wheel assembly further out relative to the hub- is that done by extending the flange between the lugs nuts and the hub or by dishing the rim portion out from the hub? It appears to be dished but I know nothing about that stuff.

Are the sidewalls vertically flush with the fender liner/trim at the top of the wheel, or ? Curious to know how you decided on the offset.

Looking at a stock photo to see the difference and the lowering is immediately obvious, and looks great.

Thanks!
 






Quick question:
With the +45 offset (45mm?), the rotors stay in the same location relative to the vehicle? The offset is achieved by "moving" the wheel assembly further out relative to the hub- is that done by extending the flange between the lugs nuts and the hub or by dishing the rim portion out from the hub? It appears to be dished but I know nothing about that stuff.

Are the sidewalls vertically flush with the fender liner/trim at the top of the wheel, or ? Curious to know how you decided on the offset.

Looking at a stock photo to see the difference and the lowering is immediately obvious, and looks great.

Thanks!

Thank you! I appreciate it!

The rotor and hub stay in the same location. Offset is the measured distance between the hub mounting surface and the center line of the rim. Offsets also vary a lot due to the width of the wheel. The appropriate offset on my particular wheel was achieved by adjusting the concavity of the wheels .

The front wheel sits very flush with my fenders. The rear could use a 5 or 10mm wheel spacer but overall it looks good to me. Later down the line I may throw a 5mm spacer in the rear. I could take some more pictures showing how the offset looks on my car if you'd like?
 






Thank you! And i already have H&R Explorer lowering springs on it, lol! Maybe its hard to tell. :dunno:

And yes, i did end up running the 295/45 r20 just like you!

Looks so nice. I told myself I would never swap wheels or lower my Explorer but this is convincing otherwise!
 



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Here's a couple pics of mine. First with stock wheels, second with winters on. Smoked Quartz!

-img_0846_f012de0d2956041522e42f3d9a146f89e83e69c5.jpg

9QNpyJ.jpg

So I ended up getting a black 2017 sport! However I prefer black wheels over the stock wheels. What kind are your black ones?
 






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