Airbag light

[mabdu]

I tested the resistance in the yellow plugs today:

driver's side - 7.1
passenger side - 7.0

brand new one - 7.0

These are the correct values (compared to mine 6.9 ohms). You need to check at the Plug side to see if you getting same values or you have open circuit some where.

 

[chrystal]

This is starting to get a bit technical for me. Pulling apart and blowing I can do!

However I have tried putting copperease (as suggested on an earlier post) and this is working fine at the moment - 10 days so far

 

[aldive]

However I have tried putting copperease (as suggested on an earlier post) and this is working fine at the moment - 10 days so far

Can you please provide a link to tha thread?

Thanks ....

 

[chrystal]

I cant find it anywhere! Im sure I saw it on here on 1st Oct when I was working on the brakes.

I do have a seat airbag - 2000 - model so I thought that it may help a dodgy connection - it has so far

 

[rwenzing]

LFC 3-6 or 3-7 will each illuminate for 4 different side airbag circuit conditions monitored by the Restraints Control Module:

Circuit resistance too high
Circuit resistance too low
Either wire shorted to ground
Either wire shorted to positive (possible but not likely)

(Each of these 4 possibilities has an individual Bxxxx fault code that can retrieved from memory using a dealer tool. Extracting the exact code would go a long way toward narrowing the scope of the troubleshooting.)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Simply measuring the unplugged individual resistors only tells part of the story. It is important to do as BrooklynBay and Mabdu have suggested and measure the total resistance of the circuit at the RCM connector. After all, that's what the RCM is looking at.

Then, again with the RCM connector unplugged, measure the resistance to ground on each wire. Also, verify that the shorting bar in each connector is working correctly and not contacting the 2 pins when the connector is plugged in.

1999:
LFC 3-6: BN/LB and WH/LB
LFC 3-7: BN/YE and WH/YE

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

IMPORTANT! THE BATTERY MUST HAVE BEEN DISCONNECTED FOR AT LEAST ONE FULL MINUTE BEFORE DOING ANY WORK ON THE RESTRAINTS SYSTEM.

DO NOT APPLY ANY VOLTAGE TO ANY WIRES CONNECTED TO ANY AIRBAG, NOT EVEN THE VOLTAGE SUPPLIED BY A MULTIMETER DOING A RESISTANCE CHECK.

THE FORD FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL (for your exact year and model) GIVES ALL OF THE PRECAUTIONS THAT ONE MUST FOLLOW TO SAFELY DIAGNOSE THE PASSIVE RESTRAINTS SYSTEMS. IF IN DOUBT, DO NOT PROCEED.

Sorry for the lecture but this is serious.

 

[chrystal]

Your saftey warnings are correct, I would love to take my Explorer to Fords to sort out this and other silly electric faults ( Radio fade, electric seat malfunction, heated seat malfunction, timing chain etc) but it would cost more than the things worth!!! (£70 per hour)

I know you USA chaps love these things, but I have got to say a JAP built vehicle is soo much more reliable!

I say this even though I love 3.0L Capri's

 

[CDW6212R]

...but I have got to say a JAP built vehicle is soo much more reliable!...

Any vehicle(lemons don't count) is only as good as the person doing the maintenance on it. I can name as many foreign pieces of crap vehicles personally witnessed, as you can of any one make.

If you take very good care of any vehicle, it is doubtful that any major problems will occur. Yet just as likely, if you treat your vehicle like crap and ignore wise maintenance, it will fail in countless ways. That is the big risk that you take when you buy a used vehicle. You have no idea of how it was really taken care of.

Bottom line is, buy a vehicle by a manufacturer based in your country, that is where all of the profit will end up, in your economy. Thus if I was a Japanese citizen, I would try to only buy Hondas, Toyotas, Nissans etc. That is why I only own American cars, it has nothing to do with quality, I can make any vehicle which I take care of last indefinitely. Regards,

 

[aldive]

Where do you think many of the components of the American car/truck are made?

There is no such thing as an American car/truck these days.

 

[CDW6212R]

The parts and locations of manufacturing are not important factors, each is a tiny portion of the total price. The profit however is a massive portion of the price of a new vehicle. I have no interest in sending several thousands of dollars to countries like those in Asia who do not help us or others in the world. They only want our money and raw resources, thus our consumers.

I want as much of my spent money to remain in my country, that is not unfriendly, simply what is best for my country, my community. Those Asian companies are using our money to make their countries, economies, people more wealthy. It's all at the loss top our country, economy, and people.

The number of vehicles built in the USA is not influenced by which manufacturer you buy from. But where the money ends up is absolutely controlled by which manufacturer you buy from. It will be the same number of Americans building the cars, no matter which company makes them. Plus the same number of vehicles transported, sold, and parts built here, or elsewhere.

The only significant difference is where the money ends up, where the profit ends up. All profit that Ford makes is going to generally help our economy far more than the German economy. All profit which Toyota makes is going to generally help the Japanese economy far more than any other country.

Think about your own country a little more than who is going to pay you how much when you sell the vehicle that you are currently shopping for. Regards,

 

[chrystal]

I didnt think you could maintain electrics, they just fail. Likewise if you make a timing tensioner out of **** plastic and it breaks, is not maitenance just poorly built. Jap cars seem to me to be better built.

 

[CDW6212R]

...(lemons don't count)...

As I mentioned, bad OEM parts do not count. The SOHC valvetrains had a deficiency in the early parts, which is common knowledge now.

All people make mistakes, as do all companies, and all countries. There are just as many mistakes to be found in "Jap cars " as any others. I do not spend(waste) my time trying to search out all of the mistakes which people make.

I am not going to ever select a make of car based on one mistake of the past, or any number you can mention. I will however choose to not support the "enemy", companies who actively are hurting our economy. As the Asian economies prosper from our consuming of their products, look at our trade deficit with them. That is my proof of how the foreign car market is hurting our economy.

If we had a "The Fair Tax Plan"(no income taxes), our economy would attract all of the manufacturing which has left us, it would come back here. Research it with an objective mind. Regards,

 

[aldive]

This thread is concerning airbag lights; lets keep it that way.

 

[CDW6212R]

Done, back to you.

 

[ThePhoenix]

first week with the 01 sport and the ******* fixed worked. I will let you guys know if it stays off

thanks for a wonderful resource here guys (and girls)

chaz

 

[aldive]

first week with the 01 sport and the ******* fixed worked. I will let you guys know if it stays off

thanks for a wonderful resource here guys (and girls)

chaz

I wish you luck; the ole BJ doesn't do it for my LFC anymore .

 

[chrystal]

The copper grease trick is hit or miss as well

 

[baritoneblaster]

I had this same problem once. It turned out that the wire had been pinched in the seat track. A small piece of the insulation had been stripped off and it was grounding out.

 

[Rick500]

I'm getting a 34 code that's almost always there, but every once in a great while randomly does not happen for a day or so. There is no yellow connector under either of my seats. (2002 Explorer XLT 4.0)

Any suggestions?

 

[nessa]

PLEASE help with this POS airbag light

I have spent hours reading posts and going to all kinds of sites looking for a fix for the airbag light on my 99 Ranger. It's all about the 32 and 37... none of the code charts even list this one. I have a 19 code and can not for the life of me figure out what the heck to do. I had some issues before and replaced the clockspring & driver's side airbag and now this infuriating light is taunting me. If anyone knows what a 1 9 code is I would be eternally grateful.

 

[Rick500]

Mine was flashing 34 for the longest time, but I disconnected the negative battery terminal while doing some other maintenance the other day, and now the 34 is gone, but there's a 19 instead.

19 means error memory full, I believe.