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Another 2002 Explorer XLS Speaker Install HOWTO

Discussion in 'Explorer Audio & Navigation' started by Stupidscript, March 7, 2009.

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    1. Stupidscript

      Stupidscript New Member

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      I used these instructions to get started, but there is a little bit more smooth approach regarding the order of panel section removal, and I wanted to include a little more detail. Thanks, GregV8 for your fine example! This is an expansion on your work. :)

      These instructions are for replacing the 6x8 speakers in a 2002 Explorer XLS using a flathead screwdriver, a 7/32" socket and 1/4" socket, a wirestripper, a pair of scissors and a little heat-shrink tubing ... plus the new speakers. You'll remove the door panel, replace the speaker, and replace the door panel. This is also handy for when you need to replace your window motors, the locks and the armrest controls ... they're right in this same area.

      1) CAREFULLY, to avoid scratching the plastic, use a flathead screwdriver (or your fingertips) to pry the top and bottom of the small plastic panel behind the door lever away from the rest of the panel. It has one clip at the top, which you can see next to the screwdriver tip, and one at the bottom in a similar location. There are two tabs that slip into holes on the armrest end. These are pretty flexible.

      [​IMG][​IMG]
      [​IMG][​IMG]
      [​IMG]

      2) The control pad section has two small clips up against the panel, and a tab that slides under the top of the armrest. Pry it away from the door panel with the screwdriver (or your fingertips) to release the clips, and then lift the front up and away to slide the tab out from under the top of the armrest. You can see the notched tab that mated with the first piece you removed. THIS is why it is necessary to remove the pieces in this order.

      [​IMG][​IMG]

      3) The driver's, passenger's and rear door control button groups are distinct, but they all have the same types of connectors. Carefully and easily remove these by using the screwdriver the push in the little clips and pry each plug out of the back of the control pad. In addition to the lock and window controls, the driver's side has the rear-view mirror positioning controls to be disconnected. (You can do the speaker replacement without disconnecting the mirror adjustment harness, but there's a teensy bit more room to work if you do disconnect it. It's a weird one that's harder than the rest to disconnect.)

      [​IMG]

      4) The first set of hex-screws you will remove have 7/32" heads. There is one that holds the upper part of each panel, behind the control pad, and then one (for rear panels) or two (for front panels) screws in the lower edge. Remove the one behind the control pad carefully, so that you don't drop it in behind the door's plastic acoustic shielding panel. Use a magnetic wrench or use your fingers when it gets ready to come out.

      When the hex-screws are removed, gently lift the panel up, and it will come away from the door. The rear doors use a white plastic acoustic shielding that is lightly glued to the door and the rear panels have fewer attachment points. The front doors use a heavier grey foam acoustic shielding that is very lightly attached, and tends to stick to the panel and its tab-hooks as you pull it away from the door. Be careful to try to keep the shielding as attached to the door as you can, and to not rip it when you pull the panel away. Just be gentle and work carefully. It's not hard or too delicate.

      [​IMG][​IMG]

      5) Here is the driver's panel pulled away. You can see the mirror control harness still attached in the upper left. Also note the many tab-hooks on the back of the panel. These fit into holes in the door visible in the next photo, which is the passenger door with the speaker also removed.

      The speaker hex-screws have 1/4" heads, for some reason.

      [​IMG][​IMG]

      6) The stock Ford speaker connector gets cut off, the plastic sleeve gets cut down, the ends prepared with a little piece of heat-shrink tubing, the wires connect, the heat-shrink tubing gets shrunk ... voila. You should clean the wires from the harness after you strip the ends and before you attach the new leads because the manufacturing process and deterioration of the sleeve leaves some residue on the copper that will impede your sound fidelity.

      LF Speaker Wire (+): Orange/Light Green
      LF Speaker Wire (-): Light Blue/White
      RF Speaker Wire (+): White/Light Green
      RF Speaker Wire (-): Green/Orange
      LR Speaker Wire (+): Tan/Yellow
      LR Speaker Wire (-): Gray/Light Blue
      RR Speaker Wire (+): Orange/Red
      RR Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Pink

      [​IMG]

      7) Plug in and attach the new speaker.

      [​IMG]

      8) To replace the panel, line up the bottom tab-hooks and the rest will line up, too. Push the panel against the door, and gently slide it back down into place. Replace the 7/32" hex-screws. Don't drop the top one behind the panel by accident!

      [​IMG]

      9) Reconnect the control pad harnesses and slip the rear tab into its slot under the top of the armrest, then snap it back down into position. Replace the small plastic shield behind the door handle by first inserting the rear tabs into their holes then snapping the clips back into place.

      [​IMG][​IMG]

      You're done!
       
      Last edited: March 7, 2009
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    3. aznboi3644

      aznboi3644 Active Member

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      good write up
       
    4. jad2411

      jad2411 Well-Known Member

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      Nice! only one suggestion, if you cut the stock plug, leave 1 or 2 inches so you can re-attach it should you sell and need to go back to stock
      Or you can get the harness from Scosche (IIRC)
       
    5. mikejay68

      mikejay68 New Member

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      thanks for taking the time.

      do you know where I can hide a 10 inch sub in the 2002 style explorer?
       
    6. BrianDye

      BrianDye I'll have another... Elite Explorer

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      GREAT write up, great detailed pics,
      but yeah i agree, ive always done that, helped me out a few times so far getting the stocks back in easily :D
       
    7. Four Time Fan

      Four Time Fan New Member

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      Great write up

      thanks I needed this.
       
    8. Stupidscript

      Stupidscript New Member

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      Thanks for the kudos, fellas!

      As far as cutting the factory speaker plugs off ... I thought about leaving extra wire for a stock connector reattachment, but didn't. I don't expect to ever re-install the old-n-moldy stock speakers, particularly with new stock speakers. Definitely a good idea for those of you who want the option, though. A better suggestion for you is to use the adapter mentioned by jad2411. If you will be returning to stock, don't cut wires.

      mikejay68: It depends on how deep the speaker(s) is(are). There are plenty of places where a 10" speaker could fit. If you do not have the third row seat, then the floor panel and recessed area behind the second row bench seat might be a great place for your subwoofer(s). The amp would fit in there just fine, too. It's also not a bad idea to consider separate enclosures for your speaker(s). There are several on the market that tuck right in behind the seats without any need to modify the interior.
       
    9. diamondrn

      diamondrn New Member

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    10. djwhoo2005

      djwhoo2005 New Member

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      replacing speakers !!

      STUPIDSCRIPT !!! that write up was awesome ! Thanks. it was an incredible help to replacing the stock speakers with my 6x8 Kicker68's.

      It seems to sound alot better !! now I have to replace the subwoofer.

      aftermarket stereo Jensen VM9224bt
      and i have the stock amp and sub.

      I want to try and replace the subwoofer in the right cargo area.

      any ideas which subwoofer i should buy? and will i have to make new holes for it to fit? I would to be able to pop one in.
      i know i would have to more than likely get a slim woofer to fit what i believe is to be a 3 5'8 " deep.

      I love the low end i have know it just seems to distort at higher volumes.
       
    11. therover1991

      therover1991 Active Member

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      you can custom fit a 10" sub in the stock enclosure its been done theres a thread on here somewhere. An 8" should fit. I prefer alpine, especially the type R line.

      If you get a new sub you should also invest in a new amp.
       
    12. headache89

      headache89 New Member

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      So I did exactly this on my 01xlt and my subwoofer (aftermarket) stopped working... any ideas? The doors are not damped only the sub is and everything worked before I swqpped speakers..... what do I do?????
       
    13. NudgE^SIKBRO

      NudgE^SIKBRO Member

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      I just fitted an amp to my 04 Limited and new speakers, what im wondering is, would mine have a factory sub tucked away somewhere or not, I'm not sure??
       

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