Another OHV M90 build

2000 OHV + rpcaster + henson performance = another supercharged 4.0 ohv Explorer

I have goodies from James already (New MAF, 36lb injectors, wideband O2 for tuning)

Here's what came from Ron (Also a fuel pressure gauge and boost/vacuum gauge)

 

[jd4242]

With these head studs we are to tighten the studs to 35 foot pounds, and seat the heads. Then add the washers and nut's, torque the heads to 100 ft pounds using normal torque sequence.
This should take care of any head gasket issues.

Now, Here's hoping the heads are done tomorrow.

Did those specs come from tom or arp?100lbs don't sound like alot.also I've heard you should re- torque them after some heat cycles and miles,after the gasket has seated.

 

[Dono]

Yes, the specs came directly from Tom.
Maybe you can check with ARP?

And yes, the right thing to do is re-torque. I really don't want to do that.

 

[jd4242]

Yes, the specs came directly from Tom.
Maybe you can check with ARP?

And yes, the right thing to do is re-torque. I really don't want to do that.

Huh well tom know his stuff so don't doubt him at all.did he say anything about re-torquing them?i know on all my old big blocks it was really important to do.that was years ago tho so maybe the gasket material has changed?

 

[Dono]

Tom didn't say anything about a re-torque on the phone.
At the very least, I'd like to leave my valve covers off over night with the heads torqued, and check them the next morning before install of the motor.

After some miles, i'd say it would be great for one of us to check (Im hoping that will be you! ) and report back as to if the re-torque was necessary.

 

[Dono]

Tom also recommended using yellow loctite when seating the studs to the block.
http://www.bradleygroupcoatings.com/product.php?prod_id=36

I couldn't find any yellow. So, the question becomes...Blue medium strength, or Red high strength?

 

[jd4242]

Tom also recommended using yellow loctite when seating the studs to the block.
http://www.bradleygroupcoatings.com/product.php?prod_id=36

I couldn't find any yellow. So, the question becomes...Blue medium strength, or Red high strength?

I would say red but i have always used blue on my motors everywhere except on studs.you will have to use a torch to take them back out tho.remember the cure time,48hours for liquid and 72 for paste

 

[Dono]

Thats why I'm thinking blue.
I want to be able to get them out without a bunch of stress.

 

[jd4242]

Thats why I'm thinking blue.
I want to be able to get them out without a bunch of stress.

Even blue your have to torch,or should.studs i feel like they are a little different.normally you don't torque them down alot so the need the extra strength .also i edited my post about cure times.thing to remember also is you have to put the studs in first and allow to cure for the 48-72 hours before you put the heads on and tq the nuts on.the nuts will be fine with blue.

 

[Dono]

The way its going with the heads, 48 hours cure time wont be an issue. I'll install the studs tonight.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

wanted to add, what do you use on the flywheel? are you suppose to use loctite, or thread sealer? dont know if the oil journals go into them or not.

 

[Dono]

JD??

I'll look in the Chiltons manual I have and see if it references anything. I have no idea.

 

[Xeek]

i dont remember putting any on mine. but i think we put it on the converter nuts. made them a PITA to get off! took a torch

 

[jd4242]

They don't.i use blue on everything except studs.i put blue on everything in your motor xeek

 

[Dono]

CDW6212R strongly suggests red. I'm thinking I'll be more conservative and use a dab of blue and torque to spec.

My head studs installed with no issue tonight. Used red on the threads.
Machine shop is hoping the reamer shows up tomorrow.

If my heads are done tomorrow night, the red will only get 24hr cure time. I'm sure it will be fine.

I've been reading about the head stud torque value, and 100ft lbs seems to be more than any head I can find that isn't tty. So, I guess 100ft lbs it is!

 

[jd4242]

CDW6212R strongly suggests red. I'm thinking I'll be more conservative and use a dab of blue and torque to spec.

My head studs installed with no issue tonight. Used red on the threads.
Machine shop is hoping the reamer shows up tomorrow.

If my heads are done tomorrow night, the red will only get 24hr cure time. I'm sure it will be fine.

I've been reading about the head stud torque value, and 100ft lbs seems to be more than any head I can find that isn't tty. So, I guess 100ft lbs it is!

Yea lots of people use red on everything.its good to do but pita to get out.I've never had any problems with blue and believe me its still hard to get them out.

 

[rjcooperss396]

The only thing I have ever used loctite on with any engine I've built has been helicoils. However, I'm in Sol Cal and we don't have the same temp changes that other states have. I've also never retorqued head bolts. On my SBF I use black ATV on the short bolts because they go into the water passages and jI use oil on the long ones. Same goes for my BBC.

 

[Dono]

I don't think the factory uses loctite when building. Just torque to spec and you should be good. I really think the loctite is another layer of protection. Thanks for chiming in rj!

 

[jd4242]

I don't think the factory uses loctite when building. Just torque to spec and you should be good. I really think the loctite is another layer of protection. Thanks for chiming in rj!

Pretty sure they use a paste all the way down to maf bolts.that's why you see some that says meets different automotive specs.also head "studs" are way different from "bolts"it would make me nervous not to use anything especially on a 4x4 vehicle

 

[Dono]

Yes, I understand the stud thing. I'm just kinda wondering about flywheel, and bellhousing. Tim's obviously interested also(At least on these motors).

So, to be safe, blue on flywheel to motor, and flywheel to torque converter?

 

[rickybobby]

you dont need anything on the torque converter nuts. they are pinched, so they lock on ny themselves