Another OHV M90 build

2000 OHV + rpcaster + henson performance = another supercharged 4.0 ohv Explorer

I have goodies from James already (New MAF, 36lb injectors, wideband O2 for tuning)

Here's what came from Ron (Also a fuel pressure gauge and boost/vacuum gauge)

 

[jd4242]

Okay, spent a few minutes tonight on The truck.

1. Noise was getting worse, so I was really hoping to find an exhaust leak. I did. Cracked egr tube off the header. Fix? I picked up some jb weld high heat paste earlier today. I'm curious if it will hold. Worst case, a new egr pipe and a bunch of swearing.

2. Oil leak. The t30 wrench I picked up isn't long enough. JD had said he just uses a 1/4 inch t30 socket. Mine wouldn't fit (it was close). Solution...drill and drill bit. I'm good to go now.
The starter will have to come off. I just need to check with Tim on what tool combination he used to get that top bolt off the starter. I really think I will be able to redo the new gasket without pulling the motor up. I won't be able to remove the pan, but that's not my goal anyway. As long as there's room to clean, get a boat load of sealant in the areas shown earlier and get the new gasket on, I'm good.

i was thinking i had to wedge the socket up in there first around that tab then put the exstention on,but your tranny may be little different and block you.i dont see any reason your couldnt drill that tab to fit a socket through it so glad it worked.hopefully new gasket and sealant works,atleast you have that lower pan you take off so you can see little better.man that egr crap is just about to drive you crazy!!

besides those snags,is everything else running and sounding good?

 

[Dono]

Yup, motors running strong. Detonation issue I had before the rebuild is gone. I'm just itching to drop the smaller pulley on the sc and turn on the meth!
The detonation must have been a symptom of my worn out motor. I've read of others with higher mile ohvs having detonation also.

Yes, exhaust tick, and it oil leak are my only two issues. Hopefully they both will be very small things.

Interestingly, the oil doesn't streak down the back of my truck at all. Almost like it's not leaking when driving.

edit: I have to mention that the coolant level in the coolant tank isn't budging. That's very, very good news.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

what i was going to suggest we do for the torx i, use two long bits, cut the head off one, weld them together. that way you can get up there, and you can use a 1/4 socket on the other end, if you know what i am talking about.

 

[Dono]

Yup, I do. Were ok with standard 1/4 inch now. I really didn't have to drill much out.

In the drive to work this am, the exhaust type noise is way better. Still a bit noisy, but as JD says, it might just be the headers resonating a bit more than the standard cast manifolds. Not a bad noise, just different.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Mine ticks slighty too but I can only hear it when I'm under the hood. Seems like mine has full power though. its starting to pull harder and harder. I'm guessing the computer is giving me more timing in the cool weather. Dino, did you have your bottom end balanced?

 

[Dono]

I didn't have the machine shop do the balancing, but I weighed and balanced each of the parts myself.

Pistons, rod caps, and rods. I weighed them all to find the one that weighed the least, then made the others match.
The scale I had only went to the closest gram, but I'm guessing that's pretty close considering the differences in weights I saw with the factory pieces that ran this long.

I still think I have an exhaust leak or two, but very slight. The oil leak is more pressing.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Seems like when the motor is revved past 4k there are more vibrations. Does your top end feel smoother since your balancing? I feel like the unbalanced rotating assembly is limiting upper range(5-6K) power.

 

[Dono]

Too soon for me to tell. Pretty shaky at 800rpm, thats for sure
I think I hit close to 4500 for a brief moment a few times. I'm alternating loads, but not just sticking my foot in it and letting the trans run thru the gears.
Im looking forward to the chance to let er rip though.

I am sure the tune I have is ok, but I sent James a log to have a look at anyway. I just want to make doubly sure I'm not to lean. The a/f gauge is in the 14's most of the time.

 

[Dono]

Tonight was an epic fail.
All both,ts off oil pan, and it's loose. No surprise to anyone the motor has to come up, or drop the front pumpkin to get enough room to replace the gasket properly.

I opted to drop the pumpkin.
Problem is, I can't get the cv's out. Tim said he would bail me out. Thanks again Tim!

I also figured I'd do the lower drivers ball joint, since I did passengers last year. I still have it, so now we the perfect time. Epic fail #2. Can't free up the ball joint. Rusted pretty bad. I hope the penetrating oil helps loosen it up.

Also, the rubber on the drivers upper ball joint is torn in a few places. I should probably do the upper arm. This depends on how the rest of the project goes tomorrow.

One step at a time.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

dont worry don, we have all had em!

got the case locked down, then almost had a melt down cause the bracket for the front of the tank didnt want to line up. the one and only connecter for the case was resting on the tank stopping me from putting it in. brain fart #1.
brain fart #2 came when i smashed my head on the rotor as i was walking out from under the truck (have a nice mark on the chrome dome now to.....thanks evil.)
put the front diff back in as well.
the drivers side was being a P.I.T. ROYAL A., only for me to discover afterwards (like after fighting with it for 30 mins afterwards) thaaaaaaaaaat i was putting it backwards .........enter brain fart #3
i then started adding all the fluids in. while putting trans fluid in, i had to grab something and sat the jug on the intake. i wasn't even turned for 1 second and heard a "thud". yup, jug fell over, spilling trains fluid ALL over my nice motor and drivers header. brain fart #4 (yes i was keeping tabs).

i'll head over soon. just need to gather up some tools, and let the dog run around for a bit, then i will be on my way.

 

[Dono]

Its all back together.

Tim was able to show me quickly where the cv's seperate. Between that and a ball joint fork last nights misery went away. Tim even stuck around to work with me to put it all back together.

I had to modify(grind down) the 'nipels' on the front top of the pana bit to get the pan back on. No big deal since they dont do anything anyway.

I havn't left the house yet, a shower was desperately needed.

Now, a couple small trips, some cardboard under the truck, and wait a few hours for the results.

 

[jd4242]

Better let that rtv dry for 24hours before putting oil in it

 

[Dono]

Too late.

It was set before adding oli though. I just eent for a drive, and no oil smell in the cabin. Thats new, and a good thing.

It sure would have been better to have dont this right the first time. Would have been a way cleaner job. Lesson learned.

 

[jd4242]

Man really should have let it cured for 24 before putting oil in it or driving.that oil will cause the build up/extra rtv that squeezed out to fall off.then it can get sucked up into the screen and or start leaking again.always let any rtv to cure for 24 hours,sure it sets up(gets hard on outside). in couple hours but if you press on it hard your find the inside is not dry.really hope it will be ok...I've had this happen to me on my old 302 bronco

 

[jd4242]

Just as a precautionary measure,next oil change check your oil and pan real well for rtv chunks.hopefully it holds and your good to good

 

[Dono]

My fingers are crossed, thats for sure. It just doesn't pay to rush things.

As long as it doesnt start leaking, I can pull the lower pan off and remove the screen for cleaning at next oil change. Thats an easy thing to do at least.

 

[jd4242]

My fingers are crossed, thats for sure. It just doesn't pay to rush things.

As long as it doesnt start leaking, I can pull the lower pan off and remove the screen for cleaning at next oil change. Thats an easy thing to do at least.

Yep.just as long as it don't leak and you check your oil and screen your be fine.not trying to curse you at all,believe me my fingers are crossed to!!your be ok man!!!awaiting that smaller pulley!!

 

[Dono]

Yes, me also.

I have a polished SC case and snout now. Im trying to find a deal on coating rotors. There is a guy oves at scoa that does it, but he's too busy these days.

Id like to install the smaller pulley with the coated rotors SC.

It sounds like the meth will eat away at the coatings, so it has to spray post supercharger. Thats going to be another challenge to make sure it sprays in a spot that makes sure all cylinders are getting the benefit of the meth.

Id say, with the larger pulley, my truck feels like it had the smaller pulley before the rebuild. Thats pretty good. And, no cylinder missfire codes from that weak cylinder anymore.

 

[jd4242]

Yes, me also.

I have a polished SC case and snout now. Im trying to find a deal on coating rotors. There is a guy oves at scoa that does it, but he's too busy these days.

Id like to install the smaller pulley with the coated rotors SC.

It sounds like the meth will eat away at the coatings, so it has to spray post supercharger. Thats going to be another challenge to make sure it sprays in a spot that makes sure all cylinders are getting the benefit of the meth.

Id say, with the larger pulley, my truck feels like it had the smaller pulley before the rebuild. Thats pretty good. And, no cylinder missfire codes from that weak cylinder anymore.

meth won't eat the coating,it will actually help alot.it cools the blades and the case,big gains!!it really should feel like your running the smaller pulley,that cam adds about 10-15hp on a slight mod motor over the 410(or delta)cam.wait till you go wot and have smaller pulley,telling you when you hit about 3000+rpms and you don't start sweating or let off before red line then your crazy(or atleast first time)

 

[vroomzoomboom]

was going to say, after today don, we should name your truck either take 2, or double take, if you know what i mean.

as for the silicon, i have put diff covers on before, let it sit for 20 mins, the dumped gear oil in, and a hour or two later drove it without it leaking. i would have to think there shouldnt be any problems with the pan either. it sat in a warm garage all day, so that also helps as well.