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Any other power issues besides the alternator ?

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by G-96XLT, January 12, 2011.

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    1. G-96XLT

      G-96XLT Active Member

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      I'm working on the 2000. Everything points to a bad alternator but I want to rule out other options before I get one. The car dies as soon as I disconnect the battery cable and its basically running off battery. It loses a .01V every few seconds when running and drops quite a bit when the lights turn on.

      I wonder if a lose belt could be it ? My belt is squeaking and seems loose.
       
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    3. imp

      imp Well-Known Member

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      Unlikely for a serpentine belt to slip, unless the tensioner is broken, in which case the belt would likely have fell off the water pump pulley, if not all the other pulleys.

      A properly operating alternator supplies ALL the electrical power used in the vehicle AFTER the battery starts the engine. imp
       
    4. 2TimingTom

      2TimingTom Elite Explorer

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      With the alternator hooked up and the engine idling, what voltage do you have across the battery terminals? It should be around 13.6ish to 14.4.
       
    5. G-96XLT

      G-96XLT Active Member

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      The voltage is around 11 and dropping. I know its running off the battery. I'm just wondering if it could be anything else besides the alt. I switched around some relays and took another reading and still 11v and going down. Turning the lights on brings it down to about 10.5v.

      The belt was actually loose. I raised the alternator by a couple of washers and it got a little tighter and the squealing is gone, however alternator still seems busted.
       
    6. Spdrcer34

      Spdrcer34 Well-Known Member

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      Can it be something else.....sure......

      But the only that it can be is INSIDE the alternator....such as the voltage regulator....

      Just change the alternator. And your problem will be solved.

      BUT BEFORE YOU DO THAT, CHARGE YOUR BATTERY BACK UP TO 100% using a battery charger.

      Failure to do so will result in another bad alternator, AND battery.

      Ryan
       
    7. ranger7ltr

      ranger7ltr Elite Explorer

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      Before changing the alternator...

      I would check for any voltage at the wire that supplies battery voltage to the alternator...If there is no voltage there, the 175 amp mega fuse is blown...

      And I would recommend not removing the battery cables while running to test the alternator output...While it does work, it will remove the battery from the system and the if the alternator is working, the system voltage could spike and kill any number of electronic components...

      When you remove the alternator and have it tested, if it shows to be shorted internally, still check the mega fuse for continuity...Alternators have been known to kill that fuse as well as themselves...
       
    8. rego

      rego Active Member

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      Does the battery icon light up with the key in the on position and motor not running? The icon is just above the speedometer needle.
       
    9. G-96XLT

      G-96XLT Active Member

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      I don't know where this 175 amp mega fuse is located. Can anyone help me. is it in the box under the hood ?

      I'll check for the battery light as well. There is enough juice to start the car so the battery can't be that bad.
       
    10. rego

      rego Active Member

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      Checking the battery light is not to check battery condition. The light will help verify a circuit. The mega fuse is next to the fuse/relay box.
       
    11. OneLever

      OneLever Active Member

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      I second that. Now that alternators have solid state voltage regulators that is a bad practice. It sounds like one of the diode sets has failed inside the alternator. Get a replacement with a lifetime warranty if you can, and make sure the battery is charged before installing it. Here is a site with some decent troubleshooting information although it seems you have already narrowed it down: Link
       
    12. 1AJeremyD

      1AJeremyD Well-Known Member

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      Sounds like the diodes are cooked and the brushes inside are damaged. Changing the alternator is definitely the issue. The belt being loose probably made the bearings inside ride differently than intended and broke the brushes
       
    13. G-96XLT

      G-96XLT Active Member

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      I'm 90% sure its the ALT but I still want to check a few things.

      I want to find this mega fuse and check the # 15 fuse and check the air bag and battery light bulbs in the dash. I just read that the 2000 explorer could suffer a no charge problem from these.

      I'll let you guys know in 2 hrs.
       
    14. ranger7ltr

      ranger7ltr Elite Explorer

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      Pic of mega fuse...

      Look at the picture...The underhood relay/fuse panel is in the upper right and on the passenger side of the relay/fuse box under a little cover[COVER IS OPEN HERE] is the mega fuse...

      The mega fuse is attached to the posts with the battery cables under them...
       

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    15. G-96XLT

      G-96XLT Active Member

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      Hey rego I have an interesting problem. The battery light on the dash doesn't come on. I even hooked up a booster pack so there is good power.

      I tried turning the key about 20 times, once it came on faintly, so I took it apart and put in a bulb from the fuel reset light and still nothing, so good bulb but no light when I turn the key to ON.
       
    16. G-96XLT

      G-96XLT Active Member

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      I hate mega fuses, one blew on my booster pack and they can't be found anywhere. I'm currently using a door key as a mega fuse.
       
    17. ranger7ltr

      ranger7ltr Elite Explorer

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    18. windsors03cobra

      windsors03cobra Active Member

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      I lost an alternator on my 03 Cobra a couple years back and the battery light never came on.
      Just replaced Dads alt on his 90 F150, 3 month old Napa alt, tested and dead, no battery light there either and I'm sure it has a light in addition to the voltmeter. What I'm saying is dont loook for or use the battery light as a troubleshooting item, seemed like GM was able to make them work but I dunno about Ford. Exploder voltmeter/gauges are worthless as tits on a bull.

      Only other bad thing in some cases could be the alt pigtail, easy to check with a VOM for a trigger wire turning on.
       
    19. G-96XLT

      G-96XLT Active Member

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      I found the mega fuse. thanks. It seems to be ok, It was a little rusty but I cleaned it up and it had continuity.

      It looks like it will be the ALT. I checked and changed around the bulbs, tightened the #15 fuse by bending it and checked all other fuses.
       
    20. 1AJeremyD

      1AJeremyD Well-Known Member

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      Change the tensioner while you are at it if you haven't done so recently. Having a bad belt and tensioner will just screw up the alternator again.
       
    21. rego

      rego Active Member

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      Reread post#6. You must have battery voltage to the alternator or it will not charge. I got my readings at the alternator. You can poke the probe through the rubber boot. I can't remember if the motor has to be running but I believe the key must be at least in the on position. I don't think you will find battery voltage because you have no icon.The seatbelt icon may be involved in this circuit. It is just under the speedometer needle. As a last resort before I found my loose fitting #15 fuse problem, I was ready to run battery voltage directly to the correct lead on the alternator to see if it would then put 14+ volts out. I'm not saying that is a good idea, but but I was about at my wits end.
       
    22. G-96XLT

      G-96XLT Active Member

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      Another glorious repair. I scored a used alternator for $29 at the junk yard and I'm back to 14.5V. They also threw in a free belt and the squeaking is gone. I didn't need a tensioner, my old belt was stretched and when I compared them the old ones were 1cm shorter.
       

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