Anyone ever purchase this steering extension?

[Rckslick333]

I've noticed a lot of people on here having issues with their steering extensions that we're meant for the rangers breaking and it's making me a little uneasy about doing it. I've been told by a couple people that theyre okay but still uneasy.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pra-se1000/overview/make/ford

It could very well be the same that's in the pa883 but seeing how I haven't purchased the kit yet I dont know.

Thanks

 

[HiImBrian]

This one is good to go, although it will still need to be modified like the one that comes in the kit.

 

[Rckslick333]

Does it look like the same one from the kit or does this one seem more.... Sturdier? And are you talking about widening the holes

 

[Mr Dubya]

There are two versions of steering shafts our trucks have - if yours requires this piece, you have to grind some material off the male end, make a small notch on the top of the thin broad side of the male end, and drill a hole through your firewall shaft end.



If that's the same steering extension from PA-883 98-01 Ranger Lift, then be wary of it (but don't avoid buying necessarily). I had an issue with mine snapping from the weakened hole drilled into the male-end (which isn't needed on our explorers).

I drew up CAD plans for a corrected one for the proper size (tighter tolerance on the female end, and sturdier on the male end), and I'm now waiting for a buddy to machine the second iteration of the part at their place.

There was an issue with not following my plans the first time so they're doing it over.

I'm hoping they'll find time to finish it this week. If I pop it back on the truck and all works out, I'm going to spread the word and hand out the plans for it so everyone can get one made.

I'm having mine made from aluminum to avoid that rusting.




-Dubya

 

[Rckslick333]

There are two versions of steering shafts our trucks have - if yours requires this piece, you have to grind some material off the male end, make a small notch on the top of the thin broad side of the male end, and drill a hole through your firewall shaft end.



If that's the same steering extension from PA-883 98-01 Ranger Lift, then be wary of it (but don't avoid buying necessarily). I had an issue with mine snapping from the weakened hole drilled into the male-end (which isn't needed on our explorers).

I drew up CAD plans for a corrected one for the proper size (tighter tolerance on the female end, and sturdier on the male end), and I'm now waiting for a buddy to machine the second iteration of the part at their place.

There was an issue with not following my plans the first time so they're doing it over.

I'm hoping they'll find time to finish it this week. If I pop it back on the truck and all works out, I'm going to spread the word and hand out the plans for it so everyone can get one made.

I'm having mine made from aluminum to avoid that rusting.




-Dubya

Definitely let me know how you work out with that. For now, I'll wait on the lift. Id like one that was frabracitated to meat everything, not one where I have to modify. Too dangerous for me. I do alot of highway driving so a major concern for when I wanna decide to stop the highway and play.

 

[Mr Dubya]

Definitely let me know how you work out with that. For now, I'll wait on the lift. Id like one that was frabracitated to meat everything, not one where I have to modify. Too dangerous for me. I do alot of highway driving so a major concern for when I wanna decide to stop the highway and play.

Agreed. But I don't want to make it sound like this is a common occurrence. I wasn't even aware that anyone else had issues either. I'd say maybe 1 out of 50 lifts might encounter this snapping. (Edit: Not that 1 in 50 is any excuse to ignore the problem) I'll explain more of why I speculated it happened when I actually get the part and write up a post about the new extension with plans.


-Dubya

 

[Mr Dubya]

My buddy's shop just finished machining the new extension. I'm going to try and find some time in the middle of next week to finalize it. A little filing and locating the U-Joint bolt pass-through are all that's left. I'll update the plans and make sure they're shop ready soon. Then I'll distribute a PDF for anyone to use and have made.

So far looks great - did a trial fitting today and the female end fits PERFECTLY on the firewall shaft. No play at all - which is a big part of what caused mine to break.


-Dubya

 

[Rckslick333]

that looks great! my computers being dumb. Let me know how that works out for you. I don't know of a machine shop around here that would do that but if you truly are in Boston as your thingy says, your only 45 minutes away... Maybe ill go to your guy. How much did it cost to get done? Also, Just to be sure... I have the steering shaft that has what looks to be a u-joint setup extremely close to the firewall. Its the only one on the shaft... I'm guessing this is where it gets extended for the body lift? If its even the correct extension. I took some photos earlier on my iphone but they're gone.. Stupid iphone. Ill take some more later to verify

 

[Mr Dubya]

There are two versions of explorer steering shafts. I think the correlation is between the 4.0 and 4.6, BUT I haven't made absolute sure. This is the steering shaft my extension is designed to go with:

The broken extension is obviously still on the firewall shaft.


Here is a picture (from another member) who has the other kind of steering shaft, which mine will not compensate for:

-Dubya

 

[Rckslick333]

The first one is correct. Must be the difference, I to have the 4.6 gas guzzler.

 

[Rckslick333]

Why does it look like the piece that goes into the joint is hollow?

 

[Mr Dubya]

You're looking at the pre-machined hole for the 98-01 Ranger. Explorers don't use it (theirs is offset). Because of that hole, the sidewalls of it took the brunt of the turning action since the female end wasn't snug and titled off-axis. You're seeing the middle-point of the snap.

Note the first picture of the rust extension.

 

[Rckslick333]

So it works but its just not good enough. How much did the new one cost to get machined?

 

[Mr Dubya]

The original from PA-883 does work indeed, and so far problems are few and far between, but the fact that one did have an issue is enough of a concern.

My friend's shop did mine for 40 bucks for solid steel. However I can't say they'll get into making more for anyone else, since they're more or less an engineering shop that makes sunglasses and safety glasses for the military and law enforcement. I just know know them well.

It's a simple enough part that any machine shop can likely make it on the fly.


-Dubya

 

[Rckslick333]

I'm excited for you to post the cad plans. I'll find somewhere that will do it. You just basically saved some people a decent amount of money. Say someone gets this done for 40$ someone can buy the 10 blocks they need and buy the grade 5 bolts themselves seeing how the bumper brackets are useless anyway, save at least 50$. Not much but 50$ is 50$.