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Best method to replace spark plugs on 98 Mercury Mountaineer V8 5.0??

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by mikey4040, November 27, 2010.

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    1. mikey4040

      mikey4040 New Member

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      I want to attempt this this week. I've read many different threads of different ways on doing this job. Some people jack up the front and remove the tires and rubber splash guards. Some people pop the hood and do it right inside the engine and others do it from the wheel area without removing the tires or opening the hood. So my question is what's the easiest way to do it without the need of a swivel attachment cause i don't have one the only tool i don't have to do this job. Also can you use those basic Autolite Copper 764 Spark Plugs on this truck? I don't use this truck that much i drive my Lexus more often but the winter is coming so I'll be using it now for the next few months Thanks..
       
      Last edited: November 27, 2010
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    3. swetrid

      swetrid Well-Known Member

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      I always do them from the wheelwell area, you can probably get away with no swivels also depending on length of extensions used.
       
    4. SoNic67

      SoNic67 Well-Known Member

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      Wheelwell area. Take the wheels down, makes it easyer and is not hard to do. Swivell and extension will help.
      Do NOT use copper or even single platinum plugs, like the 764 or AP764, you need at least dual platinum APP104 or better the iridium/platinum XP104.
       
    5. Dan Whitaker

      Dan Whitaker One fast putty tat Elite Explorer

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      BS! There is not a thing wrong with running a copper plug in a 5.0. All I run is copper in my 97 Mountaineer and I have NEVER had a PROBLEM.
       
    6. techieman33

      techieman33 Explorer Addict

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      Copper is just fine, actually better than the platinum plugs. The only problem with the copper plugs is they don't last as long.
       
    7. OneLever

      OneLever Active Member

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      Stay away from Bosch plugs and wires. Never hear anything but bad news about them on these forums. Autolite and Motorcraft have good reviews on here usually.
       
    8. mikey4040

      mikey4040 New Member

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      Alright thanks for the replies so jacking up the front and removing the tires and splash guards is the best bet it looks like. I'll just use those copper Autolite as long as they last at least 25,000 miles I'll be happy. The truck has 143,000 right now and i don't expect to have it much longer than another 25,000. I have 3" and 6" extensions and the 5/8 plug socket with a 3/8 ratchet and a 3/8 breaker bar if needed. I should be able to get the job done with the following you think?
       
    9. techieman33

      techieman33 Explorer Addict

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      these v8's are good for 200k miles plus with basic maintenance
       
    10. celly

      celly disturber of the peace Elite Explorer

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      Precisely.

      Plats just last longer. Nothing more.
      Posted via Mobile Device
       
    11. 97 EB Mike

      97 EB Mike Active Member

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      I used a swivel to get to mine from the wheel well area. They're not too expensive, and not a bad tool to have in your box for future use too. I didn't have to pick the truck up at all, let alone remove a wheel, but I'm also running a 2" TT which helped with clearance. I also had some insulator sleeves surrounding the plug. They basically look like an overgrown roll pin. They just pull out, but mine being an Ohio truck, it took some fairly serious pulling to get a couple of them out. Vice grips did the trick, but I cracked the porcelain on the plug in the process. I don't know if the 98s have the same sleeve or not. They're not a big deal, just a little time consuming and something to be aware of.
       
    12. techieman33

      techieman33 Explorer Addict

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      I can change mine on my lowered 2" mountaineer with 30" tires, but for a first timer it will be nice to have the extra room so they can see what they are doing.
       
    13. JOHN223

      JOHN223 New Member

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      Howdy! Just replaced plugs on my 98 5.0 ex. Did not even have to jack up the car, just removed the splash guards. Make sure you have the correct size plug socket. A short and a long extension and a u joint help. I tightened the new ones by hand without the wrench for fear of cross threading, then gave a final tightening with the wrench. Do one at a time. I used the auto lite double platinum - they have a rebate until the end of the month on them check their website. I believe the gap is 0.54". thought the truck is 12 years old, it has only 64k miles on it. Made a noticeable difference. Good luck!
       
    14. Hartman

      Hartman Explorer Addict

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      The most pain-free method is to remove the front tires and go thru the wheel well. Unlike the SOHC or OHV, all the plugs are right there ready to be removed. Let me say that using a swivel extension makes things that much easier....it's a good investment and you'll find yourself using it on a lot of other things as well.
       
    15. OneLever

      OneLever Active Member

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      I second taking off the plastic well wheel covers and splash guards. They're held in place by maybe six screws and after they're off you can access anything. I had a hard time getting 0.54" spark plug adjusters except for the little continuous circle kind. The wire gauges work better but they don't carry them in that size around here.

      What kind of anti-seize do you guys use on the plugs? The copper based Napa stuff or regular silver colored Permatex?
       
    16. celly

      celly disturber of the peace Elite Explorer

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      I'm a horrible mechanic, but I find the plug change on the 5.0 to be simple. I just remove the soft spash shield and leave the wheels on. The plugs are pretty much right in front of you. I use a standard plug socket and make good use of some long wobble extensions I scored from the parts place in the US when I was there last summer.

      Dead simple.

      Thanks Eric (Techie) for showing me how easy it was just before we left Humboldt for Topeka. While removing the hard plastic wheel well liners would make it easier, it looks like a hassle getting those back in so why bother when you don't have to? Same with the wheels.
       
    17. Joe Dirt

      Joe Dirt Explorer Addict

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      If you remove the rubber splash guards, that will be enough to get in there.

      Hint: Change the plugs and the corresponding wire one at a time. It'll save the hassle of worrying about firing order on the coil.

      This was my '97 for hints:

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]


      (And what came out to put in my Motorcraft Plats...) :D

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]
       
    18. Dovii

      Dovii New Member

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    19. Dan Whitaker

      Dan Whitaker One fast putty tat Elite Explorer

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    20. Dovii

      Dovii New Member

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      I don't understand. Please explain.

      I mean, if you think I shouldn't have posted this because the discussion ended five years ago and nobody cares anymore, you may be wrong. I found this thread because I looked at the difficultly at reaching some of the spark plugs and searched this forum for advice.

      I am sure other people who need advice about this subject will do the same.

      Is there a deadline for giving advice on changing spark plugs on a 5.0 engine? If there is, I apologize.
       
      Last edited: June 11, 2015
    21. bill06447

      bill06447 Active Member

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      Just did my plugs a couple days ago. All you need is a 5/8 plug socket and a long (18") extension. Go through the wheel wells, no jacking necessary. I only had to pop off two of the plastic retainers holding the splash shields on. The most difficult part was releasing #4 plug wire from the solitary loom that sits under and behind the HVAC box.

      Bill
       
    22. SoNic67

      SoNic67 Well-Known Member

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      No, but reviving a dead topic is silly. You could make your own if needed help.
      You just wanted just to post a link to a video...
      Hmmm, I wonder is that is your video (and is monetized)?
       
    23. celly

      celly disturber of the peace Elite Explorer

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      I see both sides of this debate. The video really should have it's own, new thread. But that's just me.
       
    24. lorraine1

      lorraine1 Member

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      i removed the splash guards only,one plug was rusted in bad,a mechanic told me to get the plug warm and not hot and it would come out ,didnt work that way,i got the plug hot and worked it back and forward and it came out,after that it was the easiest plugs i ever changed.and yes i run bosch plugs and so far no problems.
       
    25. Mesozoic

      Mesozoic Active Member

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      I just did this on my '00 Mounty. It was much simpler than I expected. First off, the rubber splash guards must be moved aside. All plugs are accessible this way. The worst ones are #4 and #5 . #4 requires removing the wire retaining tab from the rear valvecover fastener and #5 is just awkward. It took me a few hours with several beers and listening to music, not rushing. Well worth the effort, though!
       
    26. lobo411

      lobo411 Active Member

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      Wow...glad to have a 4.0 OHV! I just did mine Thursday--new plugs and wires--in 45 mins. The only thing I had to remove was the EGR valve to get the pipe out of the way. No funny wobble sockets or u joints either. Just a standard plug socket, a 1.5" extension, a 3" extension, and a 6" extension.

      Had to replace 2 year old plugs with maybe 3000 miles on them due to severe fouling by Lucas upper cylinder lube. I had a gallon I wanted to get rid of, so for a year I've been dumping in a full dose at every full tank fill up. Left my plugs crusted in ashy deposits--never seen almost new plugs so dirty.

      So...no more Lucas crap for me.
       

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