Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread

The new turd mobile. 2000 Mountaineer v8 awd.



The bad:

Was living it's prior life on a dusty road. Must tear out interior and deep clean.
Driver window off track "or something" and will not roll down. It tries but the rear part wants to stay up.

3 out of 4 door handles have issues. I have 4 new outer handles on order.
Cracked passenger side tail light housing. ( Ebay for some cool tail lights)

Compass-Thermometer thingy lit up and went out--idunno bout that yet

Door locks seem sticky, probably has to do with the handles.
It has a funky purple color trim with red metallic ( you'll have that every now and then)

The good
Gas tank was full
109k miles
I am the 2nd owner!!
Is from the local area, which means no salt!
The undercarriage is fairly clean
No dents to underside panels
Good rubber
Camber shims already installed
Looks like good service records, all recalls were completed.
Clean carfax believe it or not.

The "maybe" bad

The original owner, told the dealership it had a bad "heater core" however I have run it for several cycles, over an hour each idling in the driveay and see no leaks.
However, there was evidence of a windshield leak or the like,I saw condensation on the inside of the windows this AM. The moisture smell is that of water only-no anti freeze smell. I am thinking it could also be a cowl drain which is clogged???? but she did say the passenger carpet got wet.

I tried to get heat, however it is an auto climate control. Being 90 degrees outside, I doubt it would have given me heat.The heater core hoses were hot, and the coolant bypass valve does operate. AC blows Ice cold.

Maybe she meant to say "heater door"???

Anyway--here are the pics.



My intent is to drive this and use it as a tow rig for a light weight off road toy. Mods will be minimal. Edit: This plan did not work out so on to plan "b"

Current visual status

Progress pictures

Now, let's clean it up a little


Herculine'rd rocker panels. Rock sliders installed

BW 4406 True 4x4 Manual transfer case ( AKA Mouse entry point) installed 8-27-2012
Installed newer Tcase from a 2003 11-14-15

Saw a rainbow in Colorado so yeah, time for a picture

And here she is, on top of the highest pass road in North America. Careful tire placement a must!!!

2-2-2013

Changed "color scheme" of the Dick Cepek DC1 wheels. New Falken Wildpeak AT 31x1050x15

Then I decided Maroon washer on the wheels would look better

Update 6-6-2013

New bumpers, winch and Pro LED light . Front Bumper from RLC, Skid plate from RCI, rear bumper from Kert307

Rear anti sway disconnects

Update 9-2-2014
A cracked radiator at 70mph led to engine failure. Replaced with a freshened up a bit 80k mile engine starting on page 23

Found another rainbow in Kansas.

 

[Turdle]

Bug's bugs and more bugs--

Sheri went for a spin around the block last night and upon return Betty was dripping coolant. Seems we used the large water neck clamp at the smaller radiator neck and it started weeping. At least now I know where that clamp went--

Removing it required draining coolant. Went without a hitch. I then wanted to wsh her up so I went to the car wash which saw me coming because it broke right after I used the foamy brush. I stuckk all the remaining quarter in it out of desperation but no dice. So, I had to jet home and unroll my garden hose for a rinse. I was pissed so I hung note on the carwash ill changer telling the guy to fix his S&^t or go out of business, but either way quit coming down to empty quarters and split-/rant


ON to this AM. She squeaked at me. So, I thought it might be the cam sensor but after removing the serpentine I discovered it was the alternator brushes. Some fine sand paper fixed that, but whoa what's this? blood? kinda looks like blood but no, it's transmission fluid on the skid plate. hmmm. Looks like whoever ( yeah it was me) tightened the transmission fittings was getting hungry because I gave them another 1/4 turn and the leak stopped.
So, might as well get this flush out oil out of there-did that and dumped the entire oil filter contents onto the front skid plate.
Fast forward through a roll of paper towels and I finished up the oil change. Got it all back together and Sheri wants to take it out for an A&W burger and a root beer float.

I stuck the front drive shaft back in and still get a real fast vibration starting about 60 MPH which was not present without it. I did notice the front slip yoke slides out quite a bit. from where the front yoke attches to the front diff, the yoke "could " slide back bout 5-6 inches. Like it is near the end of the splines??not sure if this has anything to do with a vibration but the shaft sure could be longer. I do have a longer yoke from f150 I could use a conversion joint in-

Maybe I need to send it out for balancing?

 

[gmanpaint]

Did the front drive shaft angle change from the new bump stops on the skid plate? :scratch:

 

[CDW6212R]

Did the front drive shaft angle change from the new bump stops on the skid plate? :scratch:

Hmm, that could be a big part of the vibrations some people have, and others don't. The front diff, should be unchanged from stock, the pinion angle.

Good thought, I wonder how much the two angles differ, if the two end shafts are parallel?

 

[Albino 94LTD]

I did notice the front slip yoke slides out quite a bit. from where the front yoke attaches to the front diff, the yoke "could " slide back bout 5-6 inches. Like it is near the end of the splines??

Fix this first! then report back.

 

[Turdle]

Did the front drive shaft angle change from the new bump stops on the skid plate? :scratch:

Same vibration as before I removed the shaft the first time. Nothing to do with the transfer case or angle. It isn't moved that much anyway.

5-6 inches of slip yoke travel might be an exaggeration. But 2-3 inches would not be.

 

[Albino 94LTD]

Make sure the socket end isn't 'wallered out' now. I would think you would only want an inch or at most 2 inches left for compression and reserve most of the travel for extension (droop).

I had a 'wallered out' socket end and it resulted in a vibration.

The slip joint needs to be quite tight but still able to move.

 

[MrQ]

On a second gen you really don't need a slip joint. Both the diff and the transfer case are bolted in. The only reason its there is to compensate for flex in the frame.

If you have that much sliding in and out there is a problem. Mine doesn't move more than an inch at most. I would see about getting a longer drive shaft.

 

[Turdle]

Bad engine diagnosis

Well, there's your problem

Cylinder 1 is to the left

Globs of piston stuck to the combustion chamber dome

Here's what it looks like now

Parts I can powdercoat or use for scrap art

and a boat anchor--free to good home

 

[Rick]

Ouch! Nice chunk made into mush

 

[dkchrist]

Bummer...but

I see an engine block coffee table in someone's future and a crankshaft lamp.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

The Autozone story is all to familiar. A neighbor of mine manages the closest Autozone. He admits that their computer system is horrible. I only go in there for fluids, sprays etc... and that's just to make small talk with him.

I like NAPA, but from what I've heard they're going to transition to a similar system

I've already experienced that problem with NAPA back in April. I had to replace the drive belts on my '02 KIA Sportage and noticed an idler had a rough bearing. NAPA was the cheapest place by quite a bit. I go to get the idler and it's a V-Belt idler not a serpentine idler. KIA changed from a v-belt to idler in 98 or 99 but their system says they are all the same.

The guys did go out of their way trying to find me one. They even called a dealership. I ended up going right across the street and ordering one from Advance.

 

[Turdle]

Bummer...but

I see an engine block coffee table in someone's future and a crankshaft lamp.

Even after telling my wife she could be the first one in town with an engine coffee table she said "naw"

 

[vroomzoomboom]

I'm now glad I talked you into changing motors after that pic!

 

[Turdle]

I'm now glad I talked you into changing motors after that pic!

Yup! Me too!

 

[Turdle]

For process of elimination I am going to measure flange to flange and take the front drive shaft to inland drive lines up in Olathe, Ks. I already talked to them, 150.00 for a correct length and balanced drive shaft.

 

[CDW6212R]

For process of elimination I am going to measure flange to flange and take the front drive shaft to inland drive lines up in Olathe, Ks. I already talked to them, 150.00 for a correct length and balanced drive shaft.

Is your truck on stock body mounts, so the shaft would be the same as mine in length? I obviously have not installed mine yet, but it would be great to compare lengths of other trucks with the BW4406 in them.

What length is your front shaft now, and what are you aiming for?

I'll go measure mine shortly, I've got it standing up in my garage along a wall. I think mine was around $175 total also, to have it made given two used shafts to work with. He supplied the new slip joint and one end flange I believe.

 

[Turdle]

Is your truck on stock body mounts, so the shaft would be the same as mine in length? I obviously have not installed mine yet, but it would be great to compare lengths of other trucks with the BW4406 in them.

What length is your front shaft now, and what are you aiming for?

I'll go measure mine shortly, I've got it standing up in my garage along a wall. I think mine was around $175 total also, to have it made given two used shafts to work with. He supplied the new slip joint and one end flange I believe.

Not sure if it makes a difference but I have a manual 4406 transfer case, not AWD

pictures coming

 

[Turdle]

This picture shows what I think to be 4" slip yoke travel with the shaft installed.

In this picture the other end of the tape measure is hooked to the transfer case end flange, So, I assume I need a 34" drive shaft?

I can compress the drive shaft down to 31" with some force and it would go a bit further if I could hold it there while measuring.

I only need it to compress to 33" or so for installation

Also,does anyone know if the front drive shaft with Double cardan ( cv) should be parallel or cross phased?

 

[dkchrist]

Driveshaft Selection

Go to his Tech Info section and it illustrates all the proper geometry.

With the way your pinion yoke looks it looks like you may just need a single u joint shaft.

Everything else you could want is in the tech section too.

 

[Turdle]

Driveshaft Selection

Go to his Tech Info section and it illustrates all the proper geometry.

With the way your pinion yoke looks it looks like you may just need a single u joint shaft.

Everything else you could want is in the tech section too.

That is what I was saying in the beginning of having this issue. When we had the non lifted black mountaineer with a 4406 installed there was no cv needed and it drove smooth. Taking another look from transfer case to front diff it is a very straight shot. I still do not see why I should need the double u joint cv double cardan thingy.



I'm going to have them make 2 joint front shaft without the cv end.