Discussion in 'Offroad Projects' started by BKennedy, June 4, 2013.
Glad I could Help! Make to post the progress here so I can observe haha
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I will get you the mic holder in the next few weeks. Your rebuild is going much quicker than I expected.
I was just poking a little fun at you, take your time. I have plenty to keep me busy until then:
Cover console with vinyl.
Cut out diamond plate console cover.
Cut out diamond plate console gauge mounts.
Clean up and paint diamond plate parts.
Go to Marshall's Hardware for the 20th time, this time for threaded inserts for console, and misc. other hardware.
Finish mounting console.
Finish running the wiring to the rear battery.
Install 450 amp megafuse at rear battery.
Install two, 200 amp manual reset breakers, one before the megafuse, one between main battery and battery solenoid.
Run wire to and from the eight switches and two volt gauges in the console.
Plumb the console air compressor pressure gauge (all the tubing is in place).
Wire above mentioned switches (six 5-pin, one 4-pin, one 2-pin).
Wire and mount ham and CB radios.
Install new CD player with Bluetooth.
Install alarm system.
Wire and install transmission temp and pressure gauges (got most of the wiring ran today).
Rewire the rock lights (got melted in a few places, just noticed that today).
Install and wire trans cooler electric fan.
Wire all that stuff through relays and the secondary fuse block.
Reinstall rest of interior.
Get front seats over to lady who makes custom covers.
Reinstall air compressor and rear battery box.
Cut off old light bar mounts on bumper bar.
Weld new light bar mounts on bumper bar.
Weld ham antenna mount to roof rack.
Straighten bent tie-rod and sleeve (I picked up some 3/16" wall, 1.5" OD DOM).
Swap out steering gear box and power steering pump from donor Explorer.
Replace busted motor mount with Brian1's bitchin mounts.
Test all systems for the 10th time.
Pull engine, heater core, fenders, hood, right side doors, rear hatch, rear glass, lenses, engine and underside wiring, and whatever else I think I might need someday off the donor Explorer. Call Josh and ask him to give me and the donor a ride to the junk yard (one-way for the donor). Clean up the work area so I can get my RV back in there.
I also noticed my head liner cloth is splitting and separating from the backing right above my head. Its right along the smoke lines and water marks from the fire guys. I understand its a fairly easy process to recover it with new material, but I am not sure if I can remove the head liner without it coming completely apart due to the cage, and its age. The donor's headliner is completely shot.
Yeah, I think that's it. I am sure I am forgetting stuff.
I have threaded inserts if you have the rivnut gun...
I need the threaded inserts for wood.
Today I only had a few hours to work on the Explorer. I wrote down all the wires I would need to run to the center console, and came up with 14. I didn't have that many different colors of wire, so I decided to go through the old wiring harness. I salvaged a lot of good OEM wire, with three groups of wires where I have both sides of plugs (found the other ends off the un-melted side of the dash). One plug has 6 wires, one five and the other 10, all different colors. I can use two of those to wire everything in the console, and have it unplug if I have to pull the switch panel for any reason. I spent quite a bit of time looking for the other end of the 4X4 control harness, but it was damaged (it had 14 wires in the plug).
I am also going to use the factory wiring when I wire in the alarm, making it a little harder to mess with. I only saved wires that were over 10 feet long, with about half over 20 feet. I inspected each wire to make sure there were no nicks or damage to what I saved. A few days ago, I used the speed control harness plugs off the donor to rewire the harness I plug into the RV when flat towing the Explorer. It's a six wire plug. I only need five, but used two on each side for the charge wire.
Salvaged wire and loom;
Worked on covering the console today. The prep work took most of the day. The vinyl goes on fast. Got the smaller pieces done and one side, then realized I messed it up. Staples will show on the rear the way I attached the vinyl, so its going to get a redo tomorrow. I will use the material off the messed up side to cover the arm rest so its a perfect match. I picked up twice the material I thought I was going to need because its inexpensive and I am a novice at best at working with vinyl. Last time I covered the console, I glued the vinyl directly to the wood. This time I sandwiched thin batting between vinyl and wood. I think it looks and feels much better this way.
lookin good man!
Made some good progress today. Got it all covered, then cut out the straight parts of the diamond plate. I can finally see it should work out as planned. The cup holder figure 8 cut-out is going to be interesting.
Installed to check fit, and checking fit of inserts
I need to locate some M4 screws that are a little bit longer than what I have to properly mount the ham radio. I got the longest button-head M4 screws at Marshall's Hardware and they were fine until I covered the console. The batting and thickness of the vinyl makes the screws too short. Same with the screws that connect the removable section. They are a little too short. I bought the button head screws because they were black, and look nice, but I think I might have to get something else and paint them.
Lookin real good
You rig should be in a magazine... You should submit photos when you're done.
I don't know if its magazine worthy, but the vehicle fire has allowed me to start over with the interior and nearly all of the accessory wiring is getting a redo. My skills have improved greatly over the last few decades.
Something else I noticed I should do is to plate between the frame and the back of the sliders. I hit a few of the bracings for the slider mounts and bent them pretty good. I am going to start looking for some plate remnants.
I just noticed your computer is still mounted low. Have you considered mounting it up in the glove box area?
Console is turning out great!
Or just bring it out to KOH or Moab next year. I know a guy that can make that magazine thing happen
I thought about it, but really don't plan on ever driving into water that deep.
The console looks amazing.
i see you got rid of the external caps for the arm rest mounts. Looks a lot smoother now
I haven't cut the hole out of the material yet. The only way to access the arm rest bolts is through the holes in the sides. The seats cover that area anyways.
oh so you did retain them. My apologies. I thought you made it where the console had to come out to remove the arm rest
This, is truly inspiring.
No, the armrest has to come out to remove the console, just like the original. The armrest puts downward pressure on the top of the console, keeping it in place.
Thank you sir.
Everything is finally coming together. I got the latest version of the console finished. Behold....
Also spent a bunch of time figuring out something I should have already known about relays. Thanks @Maniac. Also diagramed out all the wiring for the rest of the redo now that I am sure of the placement of all the stuff that needs wiring. I can run all the wiring off one harness with a plug that has 8 wires on one side and 12 on the other I salvaged off the old wiring harness. It will really make things easier when I start wiring. Should get started on that tomorrow.
Yesterday and today I worked on wiring, and more wiring, and wiring. Very tedious but I actually don't mind. It requires a lot of thought, and a lot of pencil erasers, to get it all right with the least amount of cutting into the factory wiring. So far, I have only cut into the factory wiring at the power seat wire, the dash illumination wire at the ash tray, the radio on in acc/run wire for a couple of relays, and the radio ground wire for the transmission gauges. I am not using the factory radio power wires for the radio, instead running separate wiring through the auxiliary fuse panel to the auxiliary battery. I like to run the radio/CB/ham without the need for the ignition key.
If anyone is interested, I will post up the wiring diagrams after I am finished. The only wiring I am not willing to post on this public forum is for the anti-theft devices.
And more wiring.....
I had planned on making the console removable without cutting any wires and got to a point where I realized I needed a few plugs to make that happen. Ordered them on-line and moved on to the engine compartment. Worked on cleaning up the wiring, added the transmission cooler fan to ground and to relay wiring, and cleaned up the main battery wiring by adding new terminals. Also fab'd a new mount for one of the two, 200 amp breakers for the auxiliary battery wiring. This one is for the main battery to the auxiliary battery solenoid and sits directly on top of the main battery box clamp. I forgot to take a picture before I took it all apart to work on......more wiring. I cut the wire for fuse #1 (interior lighting) so I could route a on/off switch, and run a wire up to the transmission temp gauge memory. Used the exact same wiring to run the switch salvaged from the old wiring harness.
It got dark so early today that I went inside and typed up all of my notes on the wiring so it was easier to reference. It looks a lot cleaner before its cut and pasted.
EXPLORER WIRING ROUTING BY COLOR AND LOCATION
CONSOLE HARNESS #1
TAN/YELLOW LED BUMPER BAR, PARKING LIGHT FEED, AUX FUSE #1 TO SWITCH. **ADD SINGLE PINK/GREEN WIRE TO TRANS TEMP GAUGE ORANGE**.
PINK/GREEN LED BUMPER BAR, SWITCH TO RELAY #1.
BLUE/WHITE ROOF LIGHTS, HIGH BEAM FEED, FUSE #2 TO SWITCH.
ORANGE/GREEN FAN, SWITCH TO RELAY #3.
ORANGE/RED FAN, + IN ACCS/RUN, FUSE #7 TO SWITCH. **ADD AUX VOLT GAUGE RELAY POSITION 86 IN CONSOLE**.
BLACK/WHITE (2) ROCK LIGHTS, + CONSTANT, FUSE #12 TO SWITCH. **ADD ICX MODULE POWER IN CONSOLE**
WHITE/GREEN(2) FRONT DIFF LOCKER AND AIR COMPRESSOR, + IN ACCS/RUN, FUSE #6 TO SWITCHES.
GREEN/ORANGE BRAKE LIGHT RELAY, TRANS TORQUE CONVERTER LOCKOUT RELAY, BOTH IN CONSOLE. + IN ACCS/RUN. **ADD MAIN BATTERY VOLT GAUGE IN CONSOLE**
CONSOLE HARNESS #2
GREEN/GREEN POWER PLUGS, + CONSTANT, FUSE #17 TO + TERMINAL ON PLUGS. **ADD AUX BATTERY VOLT GAUGE RELAY POSITION 30.**
BLACK GROUND TO LUGS ABOVE AUX FUSE PANEL AND FRONT OF SHIFTER.
BROWN ROOF LIGHTS, SWITCH TO ORANGE WIRE THROUGH FIREWALL AT AUX FUSE PANEL TO RELAY (B PILLAR).
YELLOW FRONT DIFF LOCKER, SWITCH TO RELAY #5.
ORANGE CB/RADIO, + CONSTANT, FUSE #15.
WHITE/PURPLE ROCK LIGHTS, SWITCH TO RELAY #2.
ORANGE/BLACK AIR COMPRESSOR, SWITCH TO YELLOW WIRE IN CONSOLE, IN LOOM WITH PSI GAUGE TUBING, TO RELAY (AT COMPRESSOR).
PINK/GREEN PARKING LIGHT FEED, AUX FUSE #1 TO TEMP GAUGE ORANGE.
GREEN/ORANGE + IN ACCS/RUN FEED (OLD RADIO WIRE), TO TEMP GAUGE RED AND PSI GAUGE + SYMBOL.
LT GREEN/YELLOW + CONSTANT FEED, MAIN FUSE #1 TO TEMP GAUGE YELLOW.
BLACK/LT BLUE DASH LIGHTS TO PSI GAUGE LIGHT + SYMBOL.
BLACK GROUND TO BOTH GAUGES AND PSI GAUGE LIGHT.
BROWN SENSOR FEED – PSI GAUGE.
GREEN SENSOR FEED – TEMP GAUGE.
FAN YELLOW, FAN TO RELAY, _________, FUSE PANEL TO RELAY.
LED BUMPER BAR GREEN, LIGHTS TO RELAY, ________, FUSE PANEL TO RELAY.
ROOF LIGHTS BLUE, LIGHTS TO RELAY, BLUE, FUSE PANEL TO RELAY.
ROCK LIGHTS ________, LIGHTS TO RELAY, ________, FUSE PANEL TO RELAY.
FRONT DIFF LOCK BLACK/RED, LOCKER TO RELAY, ________, FUSE PANEL TO RELAY.
AIR COMPRESSOR RED, COMPRESSOR TO RELAY, RED, BREAKER TO RELAY.
TRANS TQ LOCK RED, TRANS TO RELAY, GRAY, TRANS TO MANUAL LOCKOUT SWITCH, BLACK DUPLEX WIRE TO SWITCH IN SHIFTER HANDLE.
BRAKE RELAY ________, TO RELAY POSITION 86.
CB/RADIO ORANGE, FROM FUSE PANEL TO RADIO TO CB.
HAM RADIO RED, FROM AUX BATTERY LUG TO CONSOLE (2 IN-LINE FUSES +, 1 IN-LINE FUSE -).
Also redid the auxiliary fuse panel and relay diagram. I actually have three more empty fuse positions than before. It could change at anytime.