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Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

Discussion in 'Offroad Projects' started by BKennedy, June 4, 2013.

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    1. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I posted about my Daystar Stinger bushings on the Truckhaven 2018 thread. They work great for me as they limit the suspension while crawling, but allow a little more compression upon hard hits while moving faster. Would not work well for racing applications because I don't think they would hold up. On the Truckhaven trip, the driver side bump's shaft unscrewed itself and was lost to the desert. I called Daystar and they eventually agreed to warranty the lost items. Shipped superfast, since I received a box from them today. Unfortunately, they sent the wrong parts. I received the shaft and an end cap, not the external bump that went missing with the shaft. A quick phone call, and they are now sending me the correct part, I hope. The customer service dude almost sent me a complete bump, but then located the single part I needed. Said I could keep the end cap for a spare.

      After a few conversations with TDavis about my failing power steering pump, I decided to add a cooler. I ordered a nice little plate cooler today. I will go into more detail when all parts arrive and I do the install.
       
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    3. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Power Steering Pump Cooler Mod:

      The power steering pump started overheating and foaming up the fluid on the last Truckhaven trip. It was puking fluid the entire time I was up in the Sierra's, so I figured it was on its way out. Its a reman from AutoZone with a lifetime warranty. Good thing, as this will be the second one gone bad since the SAS. My plan was to pull the OEM pump off the donor engine and use that, as the original pump on my Explorer lasted 20 some years, and replace the AZ one under warranty to keep as a spare.

      I spent a few hours pulling the power steering pump off the donor vehicle. About 3/4 of the time was working the pulley off, since it was rusted solidly in place. Finally got it moving after a bunch of soaks with PB Blaster. After I pulled the pump, I noticed signs of leakage where the reservoir seals over the pump. Decided I did not want to install this one on my Explorer after all.

      Waiting for the cooler to come in before I pull the pump and return to AutoZone. I ordered a little 7 row plate cooler about 12"LX2"WX3"T, that I can easily mount to either the passenger side bottom edge or side of the radiator core support. The only problem I see so far is it has AN -10 fittings. I will need two 90* female AN-10 to 1/2" ID barb fittings. Each fitting costs about as much as I paid for the cooler. I guess I should have checked before I ordered the cooler. Figured out how to run hose to the cooler using the OEM return line to keep costs down and parts availability. If the hose or cooler fails while far from home, I can reattach the OEM return line to the bottom of the pump reservoir. I will post pictures and more detail when I get all the parts together.

      I also need to find several more quarts of Mobile-1 ATF, which has been scarce around here lately.
       
    4. josh40601

      josh40601 Elite Explorer

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      similar setup I have. I ended up using the power steering cooler off a super duty truck. Its a double pass vane style with a pretty good sized tube. I then bubble flared the return line up to the hydroboost and hose clamped in the line. If you need the conversion fittings, Industrial Rubber Supply probably has them on the shelf, and they are awesome to work with. They've helped me out a lot during my power steering rebuild.
       
    5. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Thanks Josh, I think I might go by there tomorrow.
       
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    6. roscoe 0202

      roscoe 0202 Elite Explorer

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      another idea on fuel pump is go to agr steering they have a kit to install a Delphi pump like gm uses much better than the Thompson pump you can modify the pump bracket to mount.the pump like oem I didn't know what I was doing on the end mill and only have three bolts on ac compressor but could be redone on different bracket to look oem.
      roscoe
       
    7. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Thanks for the info. I don't want to spent that kind of money right now, when I can get a replacement pump for free.

      I picked up all the components for the cooler mod, including the pump. Got all the hose and fittings at one stop from Industrial Rubber Supply, thanks Josh. Just waiting on the cooler to arrive, supposed to be here tomorrow. Should have it all wrapped up by Saturday.
       
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    8. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      One thing I am not sure about is mounting of the cooler. I want to mount the plate cooler vertical along the passenger side of the radiator core support as its a great spot that will not interrupt much flow to the radiator and get air pushed through while moving. It should also negate any possibility of air pockets in the cooler. I will mount the incoming line on the bottom to push any air out the top and through the return line.

      The only issue I can see is the out flow will be above the reservoir. I was concerned about back flow filling up and overflowing the reservoir when the engine is off. I have been searching and do not see any issues with having the cooler above the reservoir. Any thoughts?
       
    9. josh40601

      josh40601 Elite Explorer

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      got a picture of the cooler so we can see the visual orientation of how the inlet and outlet are?

      Here is how mine is mounted
      [​IMG]
       
    10. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Cooler is supposed to arrive today, but I pulled this picture off the advertisement.

      cooler.jpg
      Outlets are on one side at each end, so if I mount it vertical, it will have one at the top and one at the bottom. I got a plate cooler because they are more efficient at cooling than tube and fin types. Plan is to weld two flat bar tabs to the core support and just bolt it up so it will stand off a few inches from the radiator.

      You had any issues with your cooler being above the reservoir?
       
    11. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I want to mount it where the cardboard template is in this pic.
      20180126_130511.jpg
       
    12. JW

      JW Third Gen Collector Elite Explorer

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      Wouldn't having the cooler (or any of the plumbing) higher than the cap make it difficult to bleed?
       
    13. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      It shouldn't need bleeding. It should push the air out of the line in front of the fluid. Just like the transmission coolers do, but with a lot less pressure.
       
    14. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    15. tdavis

      tdavis Linux Guru, Jack of All Trades Staff Member Admin Elite Explorer

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      I've also found that you enter the bottom, and leave from the top of the cooler.

      Glad to see you've got this underway. It will make a huge difference.
       
    16. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I couldn't mount it like the cardboard template in the pic above. It would be above the reservoir. I think that's a no no. I mounted it along the bottom of the radiator on the passenger side with the ports facing up. It was the only way it is going to work. It keeps everything below the mid-line of the reservoir.

      I had a very frustrating day. Spent several hours trying to press the pulley on the new pump. My cheapo pulley tool keeps loosening and allowing the shaft to turn. Going to get a better one and try again.

      Edit: It wasn't totally frustrating today. I realized to mount it upright I would need another AN-6 female to barb elbow fitting. The place I knew would have them was closed. Of course, I found that out after I drove over there. On the way back, I went by a fabrication shop on Miramar Rd that has done some bending for me. They were closed as well, but the owner's brother was working on his own go fast truck. He dug around and found one, and only charged me $10 cash. The one I purchased yesterday was $18.
       
      Last edited: January 27, 2018
    17. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Drove to AutoZone, picked up their power steering pump puller/installer and drove home. Less than 10 minutes later, I had the pulley installed, the drive belt back on and am ready to purge the steering box. Enough for tonight.
      20180127_205544.jpg

      The way its mounted now leaves the hoses a few inches below the mid-line of the reservoir. Should be fine this way. Its also directly in line with the lower grille opening.
       
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    18. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Done. It bled real easy, just a few turns before no more bubbles. I let it run for about 30 minutes and could feel the cooler getting warm so its circulating fluid and doing its job. The capacity of the entire OEM system is 36 ounces. I got about 1.5 quarts in it now, so about 48 ounces. Not as much as I thought, but more is always better.
      20180128_112435.jpg

      Picture of OEM return line to 3/8" ID hose connection. Using the OEM return line allows me to bypass the cooler and hoses if there is a failure in that part of the system. I routed the hoses between the bottom side of the radiator and frame. I know enough clearance so they can't get pinched because they went in easy with lots of wiggle room. It also keeps them completely out of harm's way.
      20180128_112542.jpg

      Parts list:
      Cooler
      2- AN-10 to AN-6 male adaptors
      2- AN-6 female to AN-6 barb elbows (AN-6 barb = 3/8" ID hose)
      11 feet of 3/8" transmission hose
      3/8" barb to 3/8" barb
      4 quarts of Type F ATF
      Bunch of zip ties

      Total cost was under $100.

      If anyone is thinking of doing this, I would pick a cooler with AN-6 fittings to save space and money by not needing the adaptors. I chose a plate cooler because they are more efficient at dissipating heat. There are many variations and types of coolers. Any transmission or oil cooler will work as long as the ports are in the right place. On one side, I mounted the cooler on the center post of the radiator support. There is a 8mm headed bolt that supports the body piece below the grille. It was in the perfect spot. On the other side, I welded a tab with two holes and used some leftover 8mm headed bolts and clip nuts I kept from the donor Explorer. There are rubber isolator washers on all bolts. Probably not necessary, but all the OEM coolers are mounted that way. I ended up using about 10' of the hose. The 3/8" ID hose is hard to source locally, but its the same ID as the return line, making it easy to plumb.

      Since I was replacing the pump at the same time, I flushed the steering box prior to plumbing the hose for the cooler. I would recommend flushing the entire system before adding a cooler. I flushed a full quart through the steering box. It was running clean and clear after about 1/3 of a quart, but I kept going until I had used an entire quart to make sure I give it every chance.
       
      Last edited: January 29, 2018
    19. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I was having a issue with the rear shocks bottoming out. They also rebounded a little too harshly, causing a bounce at higher speeds. The last Truckhaven trip, I tried one shock per side, but mounted them outside lower mount, inside upper mount, to increase compression length. I did not get any bottoming out, but got way too much lean and body roll. Today, I added a set of shock tabs to the upper shock hoop, but inside the other tabs It increased the angle of the shocks, making them less efficient, and gives them a little more compression length. It looks pretty good, but I need to take it for a off-road test drive to really tell.

      How I lined them up with the other tabs.
      20180130_141738.jpg

      20180130_141801.jpg

      Welded and painted
      20180130_153207.jpg

      Shocks and all the other junk I had to remove to get to the shock mounts reinstalled.
      20180130_172033.jpg

      Looks like I got about 3/4" more compression with the new configuration. The job had to be done, but it sucked. I really don't like being underneath what I am welding. Its like it was raining little pieces of lava. Got to suck it up and keep going until you smell smoke.

      Now, its ready for the next outing. I only have a few projects left. Next, I am going to make a shelf in the rear cargo area to create more storage. I am planning on keeping it simple. I purchased four under the bed type plastic containers that were all the same height. I am going to make the shelf just high enough so they fit underneath like removable drawers.

      I have a bunch of stuff I need to get done around the house that I have put off while I got the Explorer back in driving condition that I need to get done first. Also want to upgrade the solar in the RV. Right now, I am working on replacing three 4"x6" patio posts that rotted out at the bases because the guy I paid to do it did it wrong.
       
      Last edited: January 30, 2018
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    20. josh40601

      josh40601 Elite Explorer

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      so... you meeting me on the lakebed? :D
       
    21. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I can't make it this year, again. Its on my bucket list, so I will go one year.
       
    22. Spudhut

      Spudhut US Navy Submariner Elite Explorer

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      nicely done! thanks for sharing
       
    23. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Yesterday, my daughter was at a horse show in Del Mar, Ca. I decided to drive the Explorer over there to help her get the horse ready and watch her compete. It drove great. After the show, I took it on the long way home, about 40 miles. It is driving very well, rides nice and the transmission shifts great. I am not sure if the transmission was ever adjusted and wired right before, because its totally different. I am seeing 1000 less RPM at 65 MPH. I am not sure if it was the OD or the auto torque converter lockout that wasn't working. I do know the torque converter lockout was wired wrong, so maybe that was the issue all along. Temps are down as well.
       
    24. josh40601

      josh40601 Elite Explorer

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      :like:
       
    25. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Thursday I replaced the front axle shaft U-joints because the passenger side was getting loose. While I was in there, I repacked the wheel bearings and some other general maintenance. Everything looks great in the front axle. Since I had recently replaced the front diff fluid, I used a trail trick for pulling the axle shafts without draining the differential. I dropped one side onto a 6x6 block of wood at the radius arm mount, and jacked the side I was going to pull the shaft on way up. Worked great.

      Friday, I took it to Discount Tire to have the tires balanced. I had a vibration on the highway at 55-65 MPH. I specifically asked they not use impacts on the rear wheel adaptors/spacers since I have always taken the rear wheels on and off by hand. Watched them write it in large black ink, right on the work order. A few minutes later, I am watching the tech drag a air impact to the rear. I stopped him before he could get to the tire. Young guy seemed confused as to how he was supposed to remove a wheel without an impact. Older guy walked up and took over. Vibration is gone.

      Still very happy with how well it shifts now. I have also noticed the engine temps are much less than before with the same thermostat. Additionally, the high idle issue I having is gone. Idles under 800 RPM while stopped in drive. I am fairly certain that when I swapped the PCM with the donor unit it took care of the idle and maybe the higher engine temp issues I have been having. The donor Explorer had the last, most updated version PCM.

      Soon, I am going to work on fold-down tables for the rear of both swing outs on the rear bumper. They are going to be made out of some steel diamond plate. Both will be about 2' wide, but I haven't worked out the heights yet. Am going to use piano hinges, and think I have stops worked out so they will sit flat while folded down. With the swing outs straight out the back of the Explorer, I will have a nice cooking/work area there for the expedition type trips. I have a table that hooks onto the back of the tire carrier, but its bulky, heavy, and takes up a lot of space while stored in the cargo area.
       
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    26. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Got some work done on the bumper mods today. Finished the extra gas can carrier extension thingie, except for the clean up and paint. Cut out the pieces for the fold down tables.

      Usual gas can carrier I have bolted onto driver side swing out on the rear bumper.
      20180214_124130.jpg

      Cut out material for add-on extra can extension, minus the 1.25" angle.
      20180214_124243.jpg

      Mostly finished product
      20180214_165855.jpg
      20180214_165902.jpg

      How it bolts together. I made it removable because I used to have a double gas can holder on the bumper, but never used a second can. Now, occasionally we go on expedition type long distance off-road trips, and the second can would come in handy. I only need to add the extra weight to the bumper when I am going on one of those type of excursions. I would also rather have the spare tire stick out farther than the cans, so it takes the hit, which is not possible with a double gas can holder.

      20180214_170026.jpg
      20180214_170035.jpg

      I was going to flip the holders so the cans faced towards the rear instead of to the driver side, but figured out there is less than one inch difference in length. I also am aware that 11 gauge 1" square tube is overkill, and was thinking of redoing the entire carrier setup with some thinner 1/2" stuff, but I already had the one and its easier to add onto that. It also can take a pretty good hit and not bend, saving the cans.

      Material for another day
      20180214_165801.jpg

      The reason I decided to do this now, is my buddy Mike and I are going on a short notice Mojave Trail trip 02/26-03/02.

      Edit, typed the dates wrong. Its five days.
       
      Last edited: February 15, 2018
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