Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.

 

[josh40601]

Looks good sir

 

[BKennedy]

Thanks.
Took the Explorer for a 125 mile drive around the back country. Out to Julian, across to Dehesa via Boulder Creek Rd, across Viejas Grade, and then back on the freeway.

Idle is still high. It has always been 700-800 RMP at idle. Now, it coasts at about 1200-1500 RPM and when stopping it doesn't drop until after I am stopped so it pushes against the brakes. With it in gear it will slowly drop to just under 1000 RPM. I put it in 4 Low for grins, and it stayed up over 1000 RPM while in gear. Also idling a little rough. I think I have a very small vacuum leak. No big surprise considering the age and number of vacuum lines I removed and reinstalled. Either that, or I messed up the IAC valve. I removed it to replace the gasket. The inside was coated with black stuff so I filled it up with carb cleaner and let it soak, then sprayed it out with more carb cleaner. A couple of the vacuum line fittings seemed a little loose, so going to start with replacing those.

And.....its still leaking oil. Not as much, and not where I replaced the gaskets. I think its coming out of the rear main seal and only on a incline. Going to leave it along for a while and see if it fixes itself.. Not in the mood to pull the transmission. Need to find a friend local who has a transmission jack, or hit Harbor Freight.

To anyone who feels the need to replace the oil pan gasket, and has a removable engine cross member: I am not sure if its worth trying to get that oil pan back in there without separating the transmission from the engine. The oil pan fits tightly up against the transmission mounts and its very difficult to line up the oil pan in time to keep the RTV sealant from setting.

 

[BKennedy]

I was so busy whining I forgot to mention the new Radflo coil overs. They are awesome, like night and day compared to the FOA's. Ride is smoother on the pavement, they "learn" road conditions and adjust dampening. Not any heavy off roading, but I took a short off-camber trail and the Explorer was very stable. Drove through every pot-hole and hauled through the washboard roads. Very smooth. They also don't seem to load and unload, when stopping and starting, like the FOA's.

Didn't realize how good a deal Dave gave me on those until I saw people asking more than I paid for custom valved new shocks, for used shocks on P4x4.

 

[FR-425]

Er, um, I mean, Victory!

 

[johnny499]

Sorry to here about the issues. It sounds like your on the right track with the idle issue my 4.0 would blow vacuum caps off the vacuum manifold periodically and idle fast like your describing. Great to hear that the Radflo's are better than expected. Now I really want to switch mine to coil overs. just need to find more money and time...

 

[BKennedy]

Still fighting the high idle issue. For grins, I swapped out the TPS and the IAC valve. Idle went real high and stayed there. Reinstalled the OEM TPS and idle went back down to the previous too high idle. Looks like a got a defective part. I did notice that the engine seems to have a miss and idles rough. When revving the engine, it stays at around 4000 and takes a while to get up to 5000. At 5000, misses like crazy. It used to go right up to 5000 RPM fairly quickly. Not getting any codes. All this is pointing to a vacuum leak, an electrical issue, or both. I am going to start tracing wires and vacuum lines this week. My brother-in-law suggested spraying carb cleaner around the intake gaskets and see if there is a change in idle. Going to try that too.

I did have a thought; While I was doing all this other stuff, I clearanced the exhaust Y-pipe where the drive shaft was rubbing on it at full driver side stuff. I did that by heating up the pipe with a torch and tapping it inward. The driver side O2 sensor is about 3" away from the point were I modified the pipe. I got a little carried away with clearancing the pipe. Maybe I flattened it out too much and the back pressure is effecting the sensor??

Really wish I could yank the 3.6l Vortec out of the Saturn and throw that in there instead. That engine has a lot of HP in a small package (257 HP). If that car ever gets totaled, it is going to the junk yard without an engine.

 

[Rick]

Check the plastic elbow at the brake booster. Mine deteriorated to the point that it caused a big vacuum leak and fast idle.

 

[BKennedy]

Check the plastic elbow at the brake booster. Mine deteriorated to the point that it caused a big vacuum leak and fast idle.

Mine's only a few years old, but I will check it.

 

[johnny499]

An old mechanics trick for finding vacuum leaks is to take acetylene from the unlit torch set and run it around any suspected leak areas this will bring down the idle and smooth it out when you are near the leak. But first put it into the intake this will tell you if you have a leak to find in the first place.

 

[BKennedy]

^^
I remember my dad doing that now that you mention it. I sprayed carb cleaner around all of the intakes and fuel rail, injectors with no change in idle. The TPS I installed is for sure defective. I spent some time comparing the OEM and new part. Noticed the sensor is clocked differently than the OEM part. Puts pressure on the throttle body cam which causes a very high idle.

Checked all of the wire connections and vacuum lines, including the brake booster line and grommet. Found new vacuum line connector that branches off to the heater and air filter box was already split. Replaced. Also noticed that the OEM TPS sensor has some wiggle room when mounted. Loosened the screws and moved it around to a position where the engine was idling normal, tightened screws.

It still has a goofy idle upon cold start; Idles high for a few seconds, than drops down to nearly stall, lopes for a few seconds, than back up to around 800 RPM. Anybody think back pressure on the Y-pipe might cause the O2 sensor to read wrong?

I haven't pulled the steering shaft to work on my U-joint version yet. Waiting until my wife's car gets out of the shop and I get my Silverado back before I disable the Explorer.

 

[BKennedy]

Today I took it for a drive and I R confused. Now, it idles at 1500-1600 RPM until I come to a complete stop, then drops to 800. WTH??

 

[josh40601]

Today I took it for a drive and I R confused. Now, it idles at 1500-1600 RPM until I come to a complete stop, then drops to 800. WTH??

My only input is it is a Ford and refuses to comply with society.

 

[BKennedy]

Today I checked the fuel pressures with key on engine off, engine running and engine running with vacuum line to regulator removed. All pressures were within specifications, but on the low side. I ordered a high-flow fuel filter thinking it might be something as simple as not getting enough fuel to the rebuilt injectors with a older filter. Its been a few years since I changed it, but only a few thousand miles. Will see if that improves the situation.

Re-installed the OEM IAC valve. Idle seems a little better with the old stuff, so am leaving it for now.

I also located a rotted out rubber elbow tubing piece that attaches to the evap canister from the throttle body. Replaced that with no change.

When I press the accelerator, the RPM goes up to 4000, and surges. I have to push my foot nearly to the floor to get it up to 5000. I don't remember it acting this way prior to all the recent work, but also haven't tried to get the RPM's up that high in while.

I got my truck back from my wife and her car has a rebuilt transmission courtesy of General Motors. Now, I can work on the steering shaft mod.

 

[BKennedy]

Today I fixed the exhaust Y-pipe that I dented all up to clear the front drive shaft. I cut off the dented up part and welded on a flat plate so it will still clear the drive shaft, but not limit and disrupt the exhaust flow.

Also installed a new fuel filter. While taking the old one off, the front fuel line connection just popped off on its own. Looked like the "spring" that holds the filter in the line was tweaked. I straightened it out and the new filter fits snugly. It wasn't leaking fuel, but I wonder if it was sucking air. Engine runs smoother and drops to idle faster. Don't know if it was the exhaust or the fuel filter, but its mucho better.

Got to the steering shaft mod! I decided to see if I really needed to fab up a frankenshaft from the Jeep U-joint and OEM shafts. So, I followed FR-425's thread and it bolted right up. Had a little trouble getting the lower mount on the shaft until I really opened up the mount. Also had to notch the bottom of the column side slightly to get the pinch bolt installed. Steering wheel is straight, It is very solid compared to the rag joints, and I didn't have to fab anything, just shorten the Jeep steering shaft. Thanks @FR-425! Took about two hours total, and that was in my "I'm retired and have all day to finish this, and if it doesn't get done, I will finish it tomorrow" mode. Didn't get to test drive it, but I will get to that tomorrow.

 

[FR-425]

Your most welcome.

 

[BKennedy]

I took the Explorer for a drive yesterday, and the steering wheel was a little off center due to the steering column. Fixed it today. Little more responsive steering.

Slowly going through things that I think might effect the weird idle, and high RPM surge issues.
Today, I re-torqued the fuel rail and upper intake just to see. I let the engine idle for ten minutes, then shut it off and loosened the upper intake nuts. I went with the top of the torque range this time. Two of the fuel rail studs were not tight, and all tightened a little. Seemed to idle a little better, but inconclusive.

I also hooked up a vacuum gauge and its at 16", which is good, but I don't have a pump to test for leaks. Pulled all the plugs (it sure is easy with no inner fenders) and they look great.

If the fuel injectors were not working properly, would I get a CEL?

 

[Kirby N.]

I have been told the steering box is designed to mesh tightest when the steering wheel is straight- is the new steering shaft indexed so the box stays in the same orientation relative to the steering wheel? This might be a mod I need to do, but I would think that is an important detail??

 

[BKennedy]

My latest steering box was actually a little off center towards the passenger side, so this straightened it out. I never heard that about the box, never noticed any difference.

 

[FR-425]

Double check your throttle linkage. It may be holding the throttle body slightly open.

 

[BKennedy]

Double check your throttle linkage. It may be holding the throttle body slightly open.

Did that when I reinstalled the upper intake manifold. I took the throttle body off and cleaned all the gunk out of it.