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Blend Door Actuator Not Working

Discussion in 'A/C & Heater systems - HVAC' started by RobertA, November 13, 2008.

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    1. 98explorer

      98explorer New Member

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      Tom - your update adds more interest to this saga. So the Dorman works in 'some' Explorers but not all.

      I tried 'three' new Dorman units. In fact after the 2nd return to Advance, the tech went out with me to try the 3rd unit. We were certain it was my wiring. But after reading this post, I called my local Ford dealer. They had one in stock (I picked it up yesterday), and I plugged it in to the connector in the parking lot. It worked immediately.
      I can also tell you that the Dorman units for ATC and manual are similiar (as you eluded) but they are different and the manual one does not fit the same as the ATC.

      When I picked up the actuator from Ford, it looked identical to the Dorman unit in size and shape. The Ford part was only $48, so I really didn't pay too much more than Advance price. When you purchase the Ford one, the computer at Ford does mention that there were changes to the ATC programming, so it's possible the Dorman doesn't account for all programming (the Ford parts guys showed me the computer screen for the notes).

      So the bottom line is that it looks like it's hit or miss!
       
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    3. 98explorer

      98explorer New Member

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      Blend Door and Blend Door Actuator FIXED

      Update on my blend door:
      Well, I cut out the bottom of the plenum and removed the old blend door. The 'broken' part fell out too.
      Installing the new unit was fairly easy. I was able to move the new blend door in the middle and then the new Actuator dropped down into place. It was just a matter of moving the blend door just a little bit at a time (just took a minute).
      Once that was installed (re-installed the actuator) I turned on the system to ensure the door moved with temperature control (note it only moved at 60 and 90 degrees until about five minutes when the car warmed up, then it moved in increments depending on the temperature setting e.g., 70, 71, 72, etc.).
      After verification, I sealed up the plenum with Aluminum foil tape.
      I don't think I'll need to use plastic epoxy repair, as the aluminum foil tape doesn't appear that it's going to come loose (this is the real stuff you should use for sealing ducts).
      With everything back in place, I drove the Explorer around for ONE hour with my 'fixed' heating/cooling system. Absolutely amazing to have this working again. I can't tell you how excited I am for the rest of winter!

      If I can figure out how to upload pics, I'll add them later (or just reply if you're interested and I can email, but basically my pics are nearly identical to the ones posted for Blend Door fix).


      I hope everyone has a happy New Year!

      Russ
       
    4. 98explorer

      98explorer New Member

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      Tom,
      One other note, I was able to enter the DTC test mode by pressing Off and Floor together and then hitting Auto. I have an 98 Eddie Bauer, V8 5.0L.
      This just adds evidence that Ford changed the programming at some point in the production of the Explorer.
       
    5. ronnieg315

      ronnieg315 New Member

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      blend door sticky

      I have a 98 merc & the blend door sticks every time i start it. So i smack it a couple times with a rubber mallet it flops shut, then i have heat. ANY IDEAS
       
    6. 98explorer

      98explorer New Member

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      blend door stuck

      When you say that you have heat after hitting the blend door, does your heat work normally, as in you are able to adjust the temperature? Or does it simply produce heat, and you have no ability to adjust the temperature?

      If the temperature adjustment works after you un-stick your blend door, maybe the blend door actuator is not functioning properly when you start up the vehicle. It is possible for you to remove the actuator and replace it (I would advise using a Ford replacement, not a Dorman aftermarket).

      If the temperature is not controllable, we should assume your blend door hinge is broken (the part that connects into the blend door actuator). That repair involves pulling out the blend door and replacing. Very inexpensive job ($11 for a new blend door) but it's a tough job. You can do it if you review the instructions posted on this forum including the extensive pictures. Just print it all out and follow the instructions.

      Good luck!
       
    7. djsonixx

      djsonixx New Member

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      Im having the same problem with my actuator, stuck on heat unless my ac is on max. I dont have digital heat controls tho. Any idea how to test the actuator with analog heat controls?
       
    8. 98explorer

      98explorer New Member

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      Read through the posts to find the illustrated instructions for pulling out your actuator. You can then run the controls to see if the actuator moves. If it moves it's probably fine. In which case you need to pull out your blend door and replace it (instructions are posted for that).
      If your actuator doesn't turn/move, you'll need to replace it. But I really would be surprised if your blend door isn't broken. Meaning I'm sure you probably need to replace the blend door.
      Dig around these posts, as you'll find all the instructions.
      Good luck.
       
    9. djsonixx

      djsonixx New Member

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      I picked an actuator up from the scrap yard today, I didnt have the chance to install it in my ex yet, but i checked to see if it worked and it does. I got it out of a 99. Ill update yall when i put it in.
       
    10. ludasisk

      ludasisk New Member

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      Anybody know what code 125 and 115. Means thanks
       
    11. albi1cnobi1

      albi1cnobi1 Elite Mountaineer Elite Explorer

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      They mean bad data from vehicle OBD network.
       
    12. wbdollar

      wbdollar New Member

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      Thank you RobertA for your post "EATC Module Self Test instructions." I put my wife's mint '98 EB in the shop and they asked me to come back another day the job would take so long.

      I went to O'Reilly's and bought an actuator hoping it would be the problem. Couldn't find a blend door in a local parts store. Pulled the actuator and plugged in the new one and no movement. Dead. No juice to it. Pulled the dang radio hoping to find some connection problem to the ATC. Nothing.

      Then I found your post and within 10 minutes had run the ATC diags which cleared the problem of no power/current going to the actuator. Works like a charm now thanks to you. Door moves, got heat, got cold, got happy wife.

      My question to you and the others here is this: There were no DTCs during the test. It completed and I exited and everything worked. What would make the ATC stop sending that current to the actuator?
       
    13. Blue58

      Blue58 New Member

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      So I ran the self test and got the 024 code, changed the blend door actuator and it still isn't working properly. I also cannot run self test after changing the actuator, any ideas what now???? I' sure if I could run the test I could figure out if the doorman actuator worked or if I need to go get the OEM part from Ford. It sounds possible that I need to clear the codes before it will function properly.
       
    14. albi1cnobi1

      albi1cnobi1 Elite Mountaineer Elite Explorer

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      There's been a lot of problems reported on the dorman actuators. Many people have issues with the new units not working. I went with a Ford unit. New ones are pricey so I got one from a u-pull it. If it doesn't work you're only out $10. If it does you're golden. I would put the old one back in and see if you can run the diags again. If you put the old one back in and the diags work, make sure you push defrost at the end to clear the codes and reset the EATC system. You might find after that the old one works. Good luck.
       
      Last edited: January 27, 2013

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    15. Blue58

      Blue58 New Member

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      I took the new actuator one out and put the old one back in and it still didn't function and the self test didn't work either so I disconnected the battery with the hopes it would clear the code 024 from the self test and it worked. The old one was defective, it would work but it kept clicking so I took that one out and put the doormans in and it works great. I am a little leery of the doorman actuator reliability but for now all seems to be fine. Thanks for all the help on the form!!! I fixed a couple things I had no idea what to do on my 99 Explorer EB with the great help for the forum...thanks to all for the posts.
       
    16. slickemhoundd

      slickemhoundd Active Member

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      I went to self test, pulled an 024-025, hit defrost, assumed it cleared but did not reset. My recirc door, blend door and vent control are still not functioning
       
    17. #1Ford

      #1Ford New Member

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      Heat stuck on 32

      Hey Guys, Bill Here, nice to meet you. I have a '01 Explorer Limited, the heat is stuck on 32, when i change it too 15 it still pumps out heat as if i havent changed it. I have 4 automatic heat controls and 4 Blendoor Actuators, i changed them all and still nothing. I checked all the fuses both in the vehicle and under the hood and all are ok. I got another blendoor actuator today from the scrapyard and pluged it in before i left and the arm wouldnt move, all the blendoor actuators/automatic heat controls cant be bad? I am mechanically inclined but not sure what to do now. Also all the heat controls work on every place u put them and the a/c works, any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

      P.S. I also did the floor/heat/automatic thing to get rid of codes, have code 24/25.
       
      Last edited: February 7, 2016
    18. carlos.vmc

      carlos.vmc New Member

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      Hi guys,

      think that this is my first post here on the Forum, so please go easy on me. LOL

      I just bought a 03 Explorer XLT 4X4 and it came with a low price and lots of issues as a gift from the Dealer. Now I'm working on it trying to fix them.

      But I got the problem that most of you had of a blend door working but an actuator that is not, my temperature is analog setting so I suppose I can't run the EATC and perform the reset, does someone have an idea of how can I do that?

      I just got the info about the Fuses (#2.#10 and #36) so, that will be the next items that I'll check, but if I can have a way of running this EATC check and resetting the system would be also a great deal!

      Thanks all of you in advance!
       
    19. carlos.vmc

      carlos.vmc New Member

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      Just as an update, I had the previous owner case with me (they left that in the console for some reason) and I tested it, and it was working, so I basically did a surgery with the Actuators, I transplant the gears and motor from the Doorman actuator to the old original actuator (not without a lot of grinding, cleaning and suffering) but now everything works fine on the heater, I use the switch to heat and cold and it selects the temperature, I thought I wouldn't be able to do that, but in the end it costs me 3 hours of a lot of pain, scratched fingers but working temperature regulation as a result, thanks all of you for the posts and hope that the ones that are still facing problems keep on track and fix it, but an advice here, go with the original device on this case.
       
    20. mary tarrant

      mary tarrant New Member

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      what is codes 22 66 on the EATC?
       
    21. Bump429

      Bump429 New Member

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      I actually got the dorman part to work. I pressed defrost to clear the code and it worked fine!
       
    22. byron9999

      byron9999 New Member

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      For what it's worth I'll add my experience here. I installed a new air door actuator. Then on powering up, I thought, "What's wrong?" --because it would not move at all when i changed the temperature settings. ------ So I found several instances of the same thing happening (not moving) on here and elsewhere. ------- Finally I found that the unit needs to be re-initialized (reset) (not by disconnecting the battery) by pushing specified keys to access the self-diagnostic. ------ So, then I tried it but had no luck. I went back in and looked at a couple of videos on this, and noticed the person was pushing the first two [OFF] and [FLOOR] only very briefly like less than a second, and simultaneously, then let go and pushed [AUTOMATIC] . Lo!, the test pattern came up, ran for thirty seconds, followed by a code of 24 and 25 (bad actuator) so the i did final step: pushing {DEFROST] which cleared the codes thus allowing the unit to work normally. In IT, where i work, we call it re-initializing the controller. ----- My mistake earlier on, when it did not respond, was in holding down the [OFF] and [FLOOR] too long a period, like waiting for a timeup. ----- It is fixed now, the door moves nicely and changes the temperature in response to changing it on the panel... Note: This applies only to the automatic climate control EATC --and the unit must be OFF prior to turning off the ignition key. Then turn the key on and do the pressing of the buttons as indicated. You can retry if the first attempts get bogged down --- Be quick ---- ----- Additional notes as follows: Apparently the trouble codes disable the function in order to prevent further damage or overload. -----The actuator unit i put in (first of all choose the one for the automatic EATC) was not Ford, it was a Techsmart (Standard Motor Products) from Rock Auto, at nice low price. But any of them so long as matched to the automatic EATC should work, with proper procedure, and assuming the door itself has not broken at the pivots. ----- By the way, no reason to dis-assemble the whole car, just remove what is needed such as the glove compartment, and move a few hoses and wires aside. I cut an access hole in the plastic air box just below where the actuator sits. It was about 4 by 4 inch. Just use a draw knife such as made for plexiglass cutting, score it, then break along the scores with a suitable tool. Do not jam screwdrivers in more than a half inch. ---- You can carefully file off rough edges with a rasp file. (carefully) This should allow you to inspect with a mechanics extension mirror (like a dentists mirror), or with fingernails grab the edge of the door to move it (helpful when you install the new one) ------- Next make a template from card stock to find where to cut notches, establish perimeter, mark for holes to punch. Use template to cut out and punch holes in a tinplate piece about a half inch larger all around than the opening. Drill (carefully) holes into the plastic opening same place you punched the holes, use the plate as a guide. Use a drill size about 1/32 smaller than the screws you intend using. I used #8 x 1/2 inch long, hex head self tapping (ie sheet metal screws) Do not use screws that are too large--or the plastic can crack. The plate you made is now your access panel. Put it on to close the air box after the actuator is installed (of course) --- To install the new actuator compare to the old one and be sure the shaft position is about the same as the old one was. It is keyed, one rounded size across from a squared side). To move the shaft, find the correct pins and apply 5 volt to run the dc motor (briefly enough) to move it. To reverse direction just reverse polarity. (CAUTION: Do not use car battery or bad things can happen) To ease insertion, chamfer with a file (conservatively) around the end of the actuator shaft. Use a small bright LED flashlight for inspection of the opening and a mirror to be sure no foreign objects are in the air box (like a dead mouse or one of your tools) If there is a mouse, then a breach of the screen or something has occurred and can cause more problems if another one comes in. --- To insert shaft of new actuator, use a limber hand and sort of feel it in -- meanwhile with your other hand you can move the door edge by reaching in the opening and moving that door a little to match up to the shaft. Once in properly it is sufficient to install the front two screws only, as the back one would be a bitch to put in. As it is you'll be doing a lot of bending and stretching, and maybe a cut or two on your hands. The Ford Explorers are easy for this repair compared to various Ford cars which have less room in there to work. I do not produce videos, but there are a few you can find on Youtube under Ford EATC and Ford air mixture door actuator, or similar. One of the videos shows an access panel cut, and another shows the pushing of the buttons and the resultant test pattern.
       

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