Brake lights (all) stuck ON

[jimbob_sf]

My brake lights (all 3) are sticking on, even after turning off the car. I've done lots of reading and there's some good points on older Explorers: Plastic stopper on the brake pedal is worn/gone, switch is corroded..., but this model has the electronically adjustable pedals, so they have a new design and I didn't see plastic stoppers (could be there - I haven't pulled out the plastic cover yet).

I did notice that the brake pedal seems to be canted a bit at rest that would seem similar to the stopper being gone. As I press it, the pedal straightens and travels in a straight plane after. I'm posting because I used to be able to get it to stop by locking the door, unlocking, and pressing the brake pedal. Now, it's on all the time. This gymnastics seems consistent with something being off in the pedal mechanism that has gotten worse. There is a white, plastic phillips head screw that seems to adjust the stopping point that I'm gonna try out, but wanted to see if this rings in anyone's ears.

I also saw a thread for this car where the brake light was flickering that was caused by water getting in the light pod and causing a short. This isn't happening here.

 

[peterk9]

Have you tried pulling up on the brake pedal to see if the lights go off?

Peter

 

[jimbob_sf]

I confirmed that it's the stopper. When I pull it, towards the driver, the switch is triggered and the lights go out.

Like nearly every other thing in this car, Ford must have designed the car to be needlessly difficult to access anything you'd want to get to so you go to the dealer to have them burn hours to do simple things.

The stopper for the switch is behind the main mechanism and you can't even get a mirror in there to see. I'll find a schematic and see if there is a serviceable part there.

 

[peterk9]

Not sure if the switch is shown here; http://parts.autonationfordwhitebea...cal-cat/switches-scat/?part_number=8t4z13480a

Peter

 

[thefranchise713]

The stop lamp switch assembly should twist in and out, although it's something of a circus act to get it properly adjusted. (Ask me how I know.)

After the assembly comes out, should just be one connector and you're good to go.

 

[Sixonemale]

You mention stopper, but also switch. The only part I can think of would be a brake light switch.
I replaced one on my '02 Explorer that involved cutting and putting back together wires, etc., plus it was in an awkward and not in an easily accessible location behind the brake pedal and under the dash. You can also find the part in Amazon for a 2013 Explorer by searching for "Motorcraft SW6559 Brake Light Fail Switch", about a $22 part.

 

[jimbob_sf]

Thank you for the search tips! I thinks it's the Stoplamp switch, but being that the thing is buried in there (as two of you have noted), I can't see the pedal arm touch the switch when at rest. I know when I pull the pedal towards me (opposite of pressing on the pedal to apply brakes), the switch is triggered and the lights go out. It seems that either the switch "button" that contacts the arm has worn so it doesn't retract all the way, the switch just needs a twist to pull it towards the arm, the pedal arm can be adjusted to rest closer to the switch at rest...

There isn't a schematic that I can find of the assembly to take a look. I have an aftermarket warranty, so paying for someone to deal with the wrangling is doable. My local dealing has actually been surprisingly good to work with (they price match valid Internet prices) and I'll give them a shout to see if they have access to a schematic or can talk through how to get in there, but reading the above posts, there may not be one.

 

[thefranchise713]

The stop lamp is adjusted to the brake pedal resting position, not the other way around; if the installation from my Taurus was any indication. Just pulling the pedal against the plunger wasn't enough to properly set it (it has something of a calibration routine where it snap-snap-snaps into a rest position and sets), I had to put it one more detent back by hand in order to get the switch actuation where I wanted it (hair trigger). Probably wasn't the best procedure to use, but it worked. And no, i didn't have false actuations over bumps.

From the WSM, you should be able to drop the shroud, disconnect the connector and twist the assembly 180 degrees to pull out. Installation is the reverse of the removal.

 

[Eject]

I would start by calling my local dealership and see if there's any outstanding service bulletins on your vehicle.

 

[RandyH2]

Hello,

Just started the other day- the first ring of lights around the clear center lights stays on indefinitely along with the center brake light. Depending on the locked/unlocked status of the car the little upper tail light, just outboard of the turn signal lights, will also be on. I recently replaced the backup camera and started using the trailer lights, if either of those things could be a factor.

I would appreciate any help figuring this one out.

 

[RandyH2]

I was able to get them to turn off by repeatedly pressing the brake pedal. I'm guessing there is some gunk in the the switch connected to the pedal. Should I hit it with electronic parts cleaner?

 

[peterk9]

Hello,

Just started the other day- the first ring of lights around the clear center lights stays on indefinitely along with the center brake light. Depending on the locked/unlocked status of the car the little upper tail light, just outboard of the turn signal lights, will also be on. I recently replaced the backup camera and started using the trailer lights, if either of those things could be a factor.

I would appreciate any help figuring this one out.

Have merged your thread with this one. It may have been a coincidence of the switch going bad or perhaps connected to the work you did. Not sure if there was supposed to be a picture or not but nothing showed.

Peter

 

[RandyH2]

Thanks. I will play with it sometime when I have more time. It is an intermittent problem right now.