Discussion in 'Offroad Projects' started by Brian1, May 25, 2016.
Please say it is an Atlas or a duel case setup.
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I wish! A doubler is in the plans at some point.
I thought I updated this thread with my rock slider additions but went back and didnt see it. I made some plates so my feet dont get caught between the tubes getting in/out and they are a good place to stand while accessing the roof.
Love it! I am sure whatever it is will be well thought out and way cool. Getting all the ducks to line up just right can take time, and then sometimes they get out of line. I was hoping you might take the rear hatch and make some barn doors out of it for the lower. Sort of like an old willy's style.
That looks VERY familiar...
Mounted up some 35x12.5R15 Pitbull Rockers on some Allied Beadlocks. I painted the rings bronze to break up the black. They are about the same size as the SXs I took off but the Pitbull & wheel combo is 30lbs heavier than the SX & wheel combo I took off, per corner. I did install some taller bump stops in back. I need to push my beams forward a bit now because I am getting some rubbing up front. Haven't had a chance to take it out yet.
Tech tip: those red, yellow and white dots around new tires actually mean something. When mounting the tires always line up the yellow dot with the valve stem. That is the heavy balance point of the tire and the valve stem helps to cancel it out.
Looks good sir.
Looks so cool!
Nice Brian, those are some nice bigass tires. I remember those small yellow and red dots. I've removed hundreds and hundreds of them. They take some rubbing and a cleaner to get them off, or a high pressure spray close up. Thanks for the tip, I don't think I ever heard that before, and I worked around service shops for a couple of years.
Looks great!! Gives me lots of ideas
Did you ever cut the front of the rear wheel wells out? How did you manage that part since the door is so close?
Also did you ever put the front inner fenders back in?
No on cutting the very front of the rear fender but I did hammer the lip up inside the fender so it isn't sticking out at a 90 bend but more of a 160 now. I never did put my front inner fenders back on, I don't think they would fit any more. I really don't mind that they are gone, I just try and avoid mud!
I haven't had inner fenders since I did my SAS and have not had any excessive mud in the engine compartment issues.
I also don't run inner fenderwells. Unless there is no way around it, I avoid mud. The few times I was in mud it wasn't an issue.
Well you all settled it. I will be removing the inner fenders. Thanks!
Take into consideration that we live in dry states compared to Kansas. I don't think they salt the roads in NM, and they sure don't do that here so my Explorer hasn't been exposed to salt or mud that doesn't get washed off in a few days. I still have places on the underbody that have exposed metal after I burned the paint off welding in the cage that are still clean. The only salt it gets exposed to is when I drive it on the beach to go fishing.
You guys get under the trucks often, I'd clean and spray all of the body seams, to stop any rust from starting in those. Rust is forever when it gets inside a body seam.
Got it, don't want to derail Brian's thread any further here. However good info! I will check all those areas out and probably spray them with something. Just today they were spraying salt everywhere cause there is a 10% chance of snow. However I don't really plan to drive this rig around daily.
Would love to have these skills! It's really hard to find someone around here that can do this kind of fab work. Fantastic job Brian
Drove it this morning to get emissions done. Passed no problem. While it was out I spent the afternoon doing a few mods.
I picked up a manual shift BW1354 from a Ranger earlier this month. I got it all cleaned up and the yokes painted along with the shifter linkage. The new shift bushing showed up from Ford so I could get it installed. The new bushing is soft rubber and the old was a hard plastic that had broken.
Once I removed the electric case I straightened the frame where the tcase skid had bent it. A big crescent wrench did the trick easily. I also flattened the bent parts of the skidplate in the press then gave it a coat of paint.
Got the new case and shifter in. I did not get the 5spd shifter bezel (some idiot in the junkyard destroyed it getting the 5 speed shifter out) so I need to find one of those or figure out how to make the boots work with each other. Donor case had a black 20 tooth speedo gear so I used it to replace my pink 19t stock gear for slightly better speedo accuracy. I had to add some wire loom as a chafe guard on the vent tube because it runs close to the moving shifter.
Still a few things to button up like wiring the 4wd dash lights and the shift boot situation but I'm happy to get a manual shift case in it!
Glad to hear you found a manual tcase for yourself
Took some time today to remove the electric shift harness and computer and then stripped it down and modified it to get my dash 4x4 lights to work properly. The Ranger harness is different so I had to make my own instead of just getting the donor Explorer harness. The lights are turned on by a ground signal and are run through the shift computer which means the harness has to be chopped and modified. I have never seen a write-up on adapting the e-shift harness to the manual for working dash lights but here is basically what I did.
Remove driver seat to get to the plug through the floor. Disconnect gray connector under center of dash and remove entire harness. Cut the shift motor plug off and remove all the electrical tape.
Remove red piece in grey connector with needle nose pliers to access the pins. Use a small pick to pry back the lock tabs and remove all but the 2 wires you can see in a photo below. Reinsert the red divider.
Cut and splice them to the wires going through the rubber plug. An off-white one and a brown with white stripe. Cut all the extra wires off too, you don't need them. I left 3 wire pigtails for future use since it is a nice pass through grommet.
My ranger case had 2 blue wires to the shift indicator. I spliced the solid color wires to each other and the wires with stripes to each other which got me the correct lights working. Test first!
I wrapped the in cab harness with electrical tape including the tabs for the mounting screws and the underside with loom and then tape.
The leftover trash pile not including the shift computer and most of the big harness to it which I pulled out later.
I never bothered with wiring up the Manual T-Case...in fact that's kinda the point. You know if your in 4Lo, 4Hi or N, a light is kinda irrelevant. Only Issue I ever had was my O/D light (OBD2) will start flashing after going to fast in 4Lo. It can't find the T-case and starts freaking out, but doesn't effect the drive-ability. Just have to shut off the motor and restart, and it's cleared.
Not sure what's going to happen with the Navajo, because I'm using a 2wd motor,computer and cluster with a 4wd trans, and a Manual T-case, that again I don't plan to connect...which there are no 4wd lights anyway.
The truck won't know it has 4WD, without the 4WD and TOD module, or 4WD GEM version. It won't throw any lights etc, and the dash 4WD light you'd have to connect for it to do anything.