CAUTION! AWD Front Drive Shaft Removal --Drifts in park. | Page 7 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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CAUTION! AWD Front Drive Shaft Removal --Drifts in park.

I had the horrible clicking noise, like a playing card in bicycle spokes. I removed the front drive shaft and the noise has vanished. Why? After inspecting the drive shaft the u joint is still in pretty good shape, I'll replace it anyway, and the bearings at the rear of the shaft don't show any substantial wear. I will either try to rebuild this shaft or pick up a used one.
 



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The clicking is probably from the cv end. Is the boot still intact? You're looking at between 2 and 3 hundred for a new one. I think Rock Auto has a kit but I've never used one.
 






No, the boot is shot. The bearing grease was stained with rust as well.
 






There was a vendor here selling them. I got mine from a place in NJ and it cost me 250 delivered if I remember.
 






I am a novice regarding vehicle mechanics

Just got a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer AWD 152K through a series of events that would make for a reality show. Turns out there is no front drive shaft. It runs nice but not a lot of driving yet.

It was sold (as is) as a 4wd - my mechanic (ex-)friend said it was a 4WD
and went on 2 test drives (one with me, for a fee) and supposedly thoroughly checked it out earlier for his sister, who declined due to dents and bruises, and suggested it to me when he heard I needed something decent affordable and soon.

I admit I didn't know 2wd from 4wd from awd and while that has improved quickly i still dont know a differential from an equation! I learned this (supposed 4wd that had no paperwork) vehicle was supposed to have a button you push to switch from 2wd to 4wd as needed, and I just couldn't find the button. I called my mechanic ex-friend over to assist again...

When he couldn't find it either, he looked underneath (thought he had done that earlier) and announced: There is no FDS! We had some unpleasant conversation and haven't spoke since.

Lights, emblems, labels, decals, etchings, paperwork, vin-codes, and other things that might reliably denote drivetrain (2,4,awd) don't seem to exist, and i googled a lot. I finally called Ford, gave them my VIN, and was told is was a 2wd model. The 2000 M Mounty did come in 3 trims, so why not? LOL.

It still didn't make sense why my ex-friend would announce the FDS is gone, on a 2wd. Then I found a vin-lookup site that said I had an AWD. I spoke to 5 folks at Ford who respectively told me awd, 2wd, 2wd w awd option, 2wd, and finally, a supervisor I asked to SETTLE the matter pronounced it AWD. Ya know, with no labels or decals or emblems or signs or codes that say AWD its sorta hard to tell, if you are too old and sore to get underneath it and figure it out. I see at least 2 others in this thread have been stymied similarly.

Anyway, I learned about the critical Park/prawl/EB issue here in this thread, as well as general good info. And that I probably shouldn't get the grandkids to go junkyard a FDS and put it on, because it was this way at least a year and probably something fried or popped that would preclude that... but more importantly, from this great thread, I can probably relatively comfortably but carefully, just enjoy it AS IS.

THANKS ALL!
 






Iam not understanding the drifting when you remove front drive shaft. The front wheels dont lock when you put it in park, they spin free, so to me i would think it would drift whether the drive shaft was in or out. I would think that if its drifting, then there is a problem somewhere else, maybe transmission. I know iam not the smartest person in the world but this makes no sense to me at all
 






(Reportedly) the 1996-2001 Explorer and Mountaineer AWD were designed such that the FDS mechanisms or components somehow powers or affects the parking PRAWEL, without which the Parking control is not adequately stable.
 






I know this is an old thread guys, but this problem still has not seemed to be completly resolved by everyone.
So basicly this is the second time the CV Joint end on my Front Drive Shaft has blown up from the boot being torn. I've read all the responses and know about the drifting in park and the concerns of the VC being fried with the front drive shaft removed.The question is, would it be safe to remove the shaft and drive for awhile without it, and then put it back in, as long as I mark the yoke and output on the Transfer case?
 






There are a bunch of people driving around without the front shaft. You are taking your own chances but from what I have seen maybe you end up with more issues when you get around to going back to 4x4, but can keep on 2WD darned near forever.

BTW -- Ever wonder why there are so many older AWD trucks without the front shaft? Did some work on a truck for one of my wife's friends. Noticed there was no drive shaft shaft. She said it was "fixed" at the local firestone garage because it was vibrating and making lots of noise. She was given a written estimate for $900 for parts and labor. She couldnt afford it and said no. To make it drivable they offered to "make it 2WD" for $75. Guess how that's done? Course she didn't want to make it AWD again for $400 either so nothing changed there.

As for marking stuff so long as the new shaft is balanced, it does not matter how you attached the new shaft (no need to index). However, you do have to be sure there is no twisting of the boot when it is installed or it will rip again.

You can try a prop shaft from a junk yard, but don't be shocked if the CV is bad. A CV rebuild kit is about $120. (I've installed one & it went ok but still had vibration. Found out later the shaft was bent from driving a long time with the bad CV binding it up.)
The front U-joint is another $15.

Reman is probably the best way to go - have a lifetime guaranty so return if the boot rips or anything else happens. Will have a new CV and u-joint, will be balanced and straight. The bad is the cost -- pretty much going to set you back $300 with a $60 core from just about all of the parts houses.
 






Ok, that's pretty much what I was guessing. I just recently replaced it back in November, got it from Advance Auto Parts. They have one of those limited lifetime warranties on it, so I'm gunna have to end up bullshiting them about when I installed it so it will be covered in the 90 days. The only problem is I have to bring them the broken one first before they can order me a new one. So I guess I'll just be driving it RWD for a week until the new one comes in. Thanks for the fast reply.

Oh and another quick question for you guys. I've heard about adapters where you can convert the U-Joint front/CV Joint back front drive shafts to a double cardan that mounts to the TC. Any ideas or anyone know how well they work if its been done, or has anyone thought of custom skid plates to cover the CVJ to TC to prevent rocks/mud from tearing up the CV boot?
 






Hi. I've posted a few times before, and I am one of those guys driving around a 2000 AWD 5.0L V8 without FDS because that's how I got it. I am not sure how long it's been that way and cannot find out.

I am aware of all the comments about risk, safety issues, etc. I am unable to do my own repair work and I am sure the Dealer Service Dept. at Ford would say it's a problem that needs the expensive full solution...

...my question is, please, if I engage a suitable local mechanic, would there be any maintenance or check-out that would be sensible or even feasible to "see how it's holding up" so to speak. (I would like to keep driving it AS IS.) I'm thinking something simple like lubrication or such, but am not conversant in the VC technology to even ask a mechanic about the various issues involved. Appreciate any tips or advice please! Thanks!
 






...my question is, please, if I engage a suitable local mechanic, would there be any maintenance or check-out that would be sensible or even feasible to "see how it's holding up" so to speak. (I would like to keep driving it AS IS.) I'm thinking something simple like lubrication or such, but am not conversant in the VC technology to even ask a mechanic about the various issues involved. Appreciate any tips or advice please! Thanks!

No help there. Only way to really test other than removal and disassembly is to put a shaft in and test drive the components.
 












rigbyrigz, I don't think you'll get a definitive answer or solution. Problem is all autos are driven differently and react differently. I have a 97 Mountaineer AWD 5.0 and I never had any rolling problems. I removed the front drive shaft, drove about 5,000-6,000 miles without incident then fixed the old shaft and reinstalled. Drives great. I fixed both ends of the shaft. Bearings on one and universals on the other. Easy job but I had the shaft to work with. I'm stunned at the prices they're asking for a used shaft.

I would think that as long as your not parked on an incline you should be fine. Bring a couple of cheap wheel chocks (bricks) if you find yourself in a spot where you might need them.
 






Thank you Dads, thats very helpful!
 






Removed mine!

So i had my front drive shaft on my 98 Explorer XLT 5.0 go out about 3 months ago. Had it replaced for about 1200.00 (included an oil change, new sway bar links, and front brake pad replacement).

However, 2 days ago it started freaking out again while driving, sounded like someone was hammering the underside of the car with a jack hammer. Note: 2 days earlier i noticed a whining coming from the front lower left drive train area. Got real loud a couple times, heavy whine when turning slowly).

Long story short, i got stranded, had to get towed since the truck wasn't drivable after a few miles of trying to nurse her back home, i was afraid she was gonna blow up. The repair shop i had it fixed at 3 months prior towed it to their shop and said the sound and trouble is coming from the T-Case. They wanted 1500 to replace it with a used one. WTF. I said forget it, i need a second opinion and planned on towing it with another truck and tow-strap back to my house.

They called 20 minutes later and said they wanted to try removing the front drive shaft. At no cost. I agreed. The pulled the front drive shaft and had her running like a champ. Front end whinning is gone completey. Quiet turning. Put about 100 miles on it so far, no issues.

And we haven't lost park yet, knock on wood. I parked it in my drive way which has a noticeable incline on it, and tied to push it down the driveway. I couldn't get it to budge or roll. I plan on using the parking brake anyway when there is a noticeable incline.

Took it on the freeway today and thought it ran pretty smooth. I can feel the difference in control though when making sharper tuns or quick adjustments from left or right.

I plan on saving up for a new Tcase and re-installing someday.

Thanks
 






Welcome to the MFDS club!
(Missing Front Drive Shaft!)

3 months on mine, so far no mishap, no rolling.
Fingers still crossed, of course!
 






Welcome to the MFDS club!
(Missing Front Drive Shaft!)

3 months on mine, so far no mishap, no rolling.
Fingers still crossed, of course!

I haven't had to join the MFDS club yet, but may need to in the future, especially if my daughter doesn't buy new 4 tires soon. If I do pull the FDS I plan on having her always use the parking brake (as soon as I install the new parking brake shoes I've already purchased) and have her chock her wheels when she parks on a hill (her driveway is pretty steep).

As I understand the issue, the reason it may "drift" in PARK w/out the FDS, is because of the way the t-case splits power between the front and rear wheels. 35% to the front and 65% to the rear. The problem is that the PARK function splits the same way, it doesn't so much roll away so much as it may creep.
 






Navigator?

Hello there, Im new here. (jeep guy) This thread seems to be the most informative on fds removal, I have the 5.4 and a4wd in a 99 navigator (133k) are these the same as explorers/expeditions? I do get a slight binding feeling under 15mph in light turning no noises yet, and it only does it once driven for about 30 mi (once warmed up?) any info would be appreciated. Thank you Sirs,

P.S My E-brake works superb :D
 



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Don't know about the technical issue above. But just am a continuing surviving (thriving) member of the MFDS Club... It has now been over 6 months, missing FDS, no problems, much driving. Knock on Metal, err wood!
 






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