Well after a few days of not being able to shift intermittently and almost stalling while at a stop i figured id do a slave cylinder. I crawled under there and looked in the inspection hole and of course the slave cylinder was wet and leaking slightly. so first i gathered up my parts. Ford Clutch Kit F37Z 7L596 BA list price $184.77 Ford Slave cylinder 6L5Z 7A508 AB list price $109.48 $294.25 + tax I work for a Ford dealer so i got this stuff cheaper. I payed $248.36 after tax so lets get started. but just know that this is how I did it...following my own procedure using high quality tools and equipment. everyone has their own little tricks and way to do things...this is mine......so.......results may vary. start by gathering up your tools and a rack. youll need a good set of tools for this job and if you have access to a lift take advantage cause i couldnt even imagine doing this on the floor. plenty of PB blaster or some penetrating lube will help out here alot....i used it everywhere....all the liquid you see in the pictures if PB not leaks.....well most of it disconnect the battery so you dont accidently arc weld your starter onto something. remove the shift boot and shifter. remove the clutch fluid resivoir cap and fill the resivior up and leave the cap off (put a rag or something over it so it wont get anything in it) lift the truck up in the air high enough to stand under it. now that youve got a big heavy object to stand under go ahead and get under there. there isnt a whole lot of room between the gas tank and the transfer case so i removed the transfer case to make my life a little easier, BUT you dont HAVE to.....it would just be difficult. and i have a sport so it may be easier on a 4 door. so to remove the transfer case start by pulling off the driveshafts at the transfercase and tie them back. PB blaster will make your life so much easier....so use it where you feel the need to. make sure you mark the shaft with a grease pen or something so you know to put it back in the same position. then pull the 10mm bolt that holds the speedo cable and gear into the transfercase. since youre in there now would be a good time to check the speedo gear and make sure its ok. then disconnect the wires to the transfercase shift motor. next remove the 4 skidplate bolts and the skidplate. if you feel so inclined go ahead and drain the fluid. Im sure glad I did. then go ahead and pull the five bolts that hold the tcase to the tailshaft housing.. the bottom bolt wont be able to come all the way out but it will come out enough to let the case out. then you can pull the tcase out just past the alignment dowels and point it down and it will pull it straight back off the shaft. next you can pull your exhaust out or back depending on your exhaust setup. once you have the exhaust out youll need to remove the y-pipe to make clearance for the bellhousing when you pull the tranny out. also be prepared to have to replace the bolts and nuts cause they may be rusted to beyond further use. mine spun in the wrench and got stuck. having a short exhaust made it much easier to get out. next grab a pole jack and stick it under the tranny and support it so you can pull the crossmember out. pull the nuts and pull out the bolts. then the crossmember can drop from the passenger side and pull out. replace your pole jack with a tranny jack. it helps if you can bolt the tranny mount to the jack. drop the tranny down a little bit to get better access to the upper bellhousing bolts. next remove the starter, disconnect the electrical connectors on the tranny, disconnect the line at the slave cylinder and remove the 8 13mm bolts holding the tranny to the engine. theres 2 on the bottom 4 on the sides and 2 on the top. i couldnt really get any good pictures of them but its pretty straight forward. once you have everything disconnected from the tranny go ahead and pull it back to clear the input shaft and let it down. and you will be looking at a nice old pressure plate. also with the tranny out i took the opportunity to drain the fluid and fill it back up with some fresh ATF next pull the 6 13mm bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel. make sure you dont drop the clutch disc on your foot. remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. now you should be looking at a nice old flywheel......unfortunately mine wasnt so nice. cracked big time. so i decided to get one of those too. i got a LUK LFW156 list $179.99.....i paid $48.17. 6 17mm bolts holt the flywheel on. since i had to replace the fly wheel i had to press out the old pilot bearing and the sleeve. a 13mm socket will work to push the pilot bearing out of the sleeve and a 19mm to push the sleeve out of the flywheel. next throw out the old flywheel and put the new one in the press. push the sleeve in first. then the new pilot bearing put the new flywheel back on the crank and put the bolts back in.......looks much better now. then throw some grease in the pilot bearing. grab the new pressure plate and clutch and put the clutch disc on the alignment tool. bolt it all down making sure the alignment tool can slide in and out easily indicating the clutch disc and pilot bearing are aligned. now its time to turn my attention to the tranny. when i pulled it out i noticed that the three rubber plugs on the back were dried out and leaking. i grabbed some new ones 1L5Z 7A107 AA list $6.03 each. i put a small amount of silicon sealant on each plug to help. i also decided to replace the inner shifter boot. 6L5Z 7277 A list $42.98 old new then i replaced the slave cylinder. remove the 2 10mm bolts and pull the slave straight out. and put the new one in and tighten the bolts. now its time to stick it all back together. in reverse order. tranny crossmember y-pipe exhaust and transfer case(make sure to fill it back up with some ATF if you drained it. now for the dreaded bleed procedure........im not sure what all the hype is about here.......i opened the bleeder and let fluid gravity bleed. once it starts to come out the bleeder get some one to get inside and pump the clutch and bleed just like bleeding brakes. JUST MAKE SURE TO NOT LET THE RESIVOIR GO EMPTY!!! or youll suck air and that would suck. lastly connect the battery top off the resivoir reinstall the shift boot and start the x to make sure it all works right. and have some lunch parts invloved Ford Clutch Kit F37Z 7L596 BA list price $184.77 Ford Slave cylinder 6L5Z 7A508 AB list price $109.48 rubber plugs 1L5Z 7A107 AA list price $6.03 each inner shifter boot 6L5Z 7277 A list price $42.98 LUK flywheel LFW156 list price $179.99 total $535.31 + tax I payed $343.67 after tax so yeah...its expensive. but this was all ford parts minus the flywheel so aftermarket would be cheaper....but atleast i can shift again!!!!! celebration pose!!! this really wasnt a bad job to do with the right equipment. dont be afraid to get out there get dirty and get your x running good again. i hope this helps somebody out.