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clutch and flywheel replacement

Discussion in 'Stock 1991 - 1994 Explorers' started by CmdrPopNFresh, April 12, 2009.


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    1. CmdrPopNFresh

      CmdrPopNFresh Active Member

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      City, State:
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      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      '93 Sport
      Well after a few days of not being able to shift intermittently and almost stalling while at a stop i figured id do a slave cylinder. I crawled under there and looked in the inspection hole and of course the slave cylinder was wet and leaking slightly.

      so first i gathered up my parts.

      Ford Clutch Kit F37Z 7L596 BA list price $184.77
      Ford Slave cylinder 6L5Z 7A508 AB list price $109.48

      $294.25 + tax


      I work for a Ford dealer so i got this stuff cheaper. I payed $248.36 after tax



      so lets get started. but just know that this is how I did it...following my own procedure using high quality tools and equipment. everyone has their own little tricks and way to do things...this is mine......so.......results may vary.


      start by gathering up your tools and a rack.
      youll need a good set of tools for this job and if you have access to a lift take advantage cause i couldnt even imagine doing this on the floor. plenty of PB blaster or some penetrating lube will help out here alot....i used it everywhere....all the liquid you see in the pictures if PB not leaks.....well most of it :)


      disconnect the battery so you dont accidently arc weld your starter onto something.


      remove the shift boot and shifter.


      remove the clutch fluid resivoir cap and fill the resivior up and leave the cap off (put a rag or something over it so it wont get anything in it)


      lift the truck up in the air high enough to stand under it.


      now that youve got a big heavy object to stand under go ahead and get under there.


      there isnt a whole lot of room between the gas tank and the transfer case so i removed the transfer case to make my life a little easier, BUT you dont HAVE to.....it would just be difficult. and i have a sport so it may be easier on a 4 door. so to remove the transfer case start by pulling off the driveshafts at the transfercase and tie them back. PB blaster will make your life so much easier....so use it where you feel the need to.
      [​IMG]


      make sure you mark the shaft with a grease pen or something so you know to put it back in the same position.
      [​IMG]


      then pull the 10mm bolt that holds the speedo cable and gear into the transfercase.
      [​IMG]


      since youre in there now would be a good time to check the speedo gear and make sure its ok.
      [​IMG]


      then disconnect the wires to the transfercase shift motor.


      next remove the 4 skidplate bolts and the skidplate.
      [​IMG]

      if you feel so inclined go ahead and drain the fluid. Im sure glad I did.
      [​IMG]


      then go ahead and pull the five bolts that hold the tcase to the tailshaft housing.. the bottom bolt wont be able to come all the way out but it will come out enough to let the case out.
      [​IMG]


      then you can pull the tcase out just past the alignment dowels and point it down and it will pull it straight back off the shaft.
      [​IMG]


      next you can pull your exhaust out or back depending on your exhaust setup. once you have the exhaust out youll need to remove the y-pipe to make clearance for the bellhousing when you pull the tranny out. also be prepared to have to replace the bolts and nuts cause they may be rusted to beyond further use. mine spun in the wrench and got stuck.
      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]


      having a short exhaust made it much easier to get out.
      [​IMG]


      next grab a pole jack and stick it under the tranny and support it so you can pull the crossmember out. pull the nuts and pull out the bolts. then the crossmember can drop from the passenger side and pull out.
      [​IMG]


      replace your pole jack with a tranny jack. it helps if you can bolt the tranny mount to the jack. drop the tranny down a little bit to get better access to the upper bellhousing bolts.
      [​IMG]


      next remove the starter, disconnect the electrical connectors on the tranny, disconnect the line at the slave cylinder and remove the 8 13mm bolts holding the tranny to the engine. theres 2 on the bottom 4 on the sides and 2 on the top. i couldnt really get any good pictures of them but its pretty straight forward.


      once you have everything disconnected from the tranny go ahead and pull it back to clear the input shaft and let it down. and you will be looking at a nice old pressure plate. also with the tranny out i took the opportunity to drain the fluid and fill it back up with some fresh ATF
      [​IMG]


      next pull the 6 13mm bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel. make sure you dont drop the clutch disc on your foot. remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. now you should be looking at a nice old flywheel......unfortunately mine wasnt so nice.
      [​IMG]

      cracked big time.
      [​IMG]

      so i decided to get one of those too. i got a LUK LFW156 list $179.99.....i paid $48.17. 6 17mm bolts holt the flywheel on.
      [​IMG]


      since i had to replace the fly wheel i had to press out the old pilot bearing and the sleeve. a 13mm socket will work to push the pilot bearing out of the sleeve and a 19mm to push the sleeve out of the flywheel.

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]

      next throw out the old flywheel and put the new one in the press. push the sleeve in first.
      [​IMG]

      then the new pilot bearing
      [​IMG]


      put the new flywheel back on the crank and put the bolts back in.......looks much better now.
      [​IMG]

      then throw some grease in the pilot bearing. grab the new pressure plate and clutch and put the clutch disc on the alignment tool. bolt it all down making sure the alignment tool can slide in and out easily indicating the clutch disc and pilot bearing are aligned.


      now its time to turn my attention to the tranny. when i pulled it out i noticed that the three rubber plugs on the back were dried out and leaking. i grabbed some new ones 1L5Z 7A107 AA list $6.03 each. i put a small amount of silicon sealant on each plug to help. i also decided to replace the inner shifter boot. 6L5Z 7277 A list $42.98
      old
      [​IMG]

      new
      [​IMG]


      then i replaced the slave cylinder. remove the 2 10mm bolts and pull the slave straight out. and put the new one in and tighten the bolts.
      [​IMG]


      now its time to stick it all back together. in reverse order. tranny crossmember y-pipe exhaust and transfer case(make sure to fill it back up with some ATF if you drained it.

      now for the dreaded bleed procedure........im not sure what all the hype is about here.......i opened the bleeder and let fluid gravity bleed. once it starts to come out the bleeder get some one to get inside and pump the clutch and bleed just like bleeding brakes. JUST MAKE SURE TO NOT LET THE RESIVOIR GO EMPTY!!! or youll suck air and that would suck.

      lastly connect the battery top off the resivoir reinstall the shift boot and start the x to make sure it all works right. and have some lunch
      [​IMG]




      parts invloved

      Ford Clutch Kit F37Z 7L596 BA list price $184.77
      Ford Slave cylinder 6L5Z 7A508 AB list price $109.48
      rubber plugs 1L5Z 7A107 AA list price $6.03 each
      inner shifter boot 6L5Z 7277 A list price $42.98
      LUK flywheel LFW156 list price $179.99

      total $535.31 + tax


      I payed $343.67 after tax


      so yeah...its expensive. but this was all ford parts minus the flywheel so aftermarket would be cheaper....but atleast i can shift again!!!!!

      celebration pose!!!
      [​IMG]


      this really wasnt a bad job to do with the right equipment. dont be afraid to get out there get dirty and get your x running good again. i hope this helps somebody out.
       
      Last edited: April 12, 2009
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    3. tripytrucker

      tripytrucker New Member

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    4. CmdrPopNFresh

      CmdrPopNFresh Active Member

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    5. CmdrPopNFresh

      CmdrPopNFresh Active Member

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      well i put a good 100 miles on it this weekend and its running great. its so nice to be able to pull onto the freeway with confidence knowing that i can grab second when i want it...not when the tranny decides to let me have it.
       
    6. donlightbody

      donlightbody Member

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      Oh what I'd give for a lift to work under like that! hmm, no drooling smiley. :exp: great write up btw.
       
    7. CmdrPopNFresh

      CmdrPopNFresh Active Member

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      thanks! and yes its so nice to have a shop at my disposal. this would have sucked to do in my driveway.
       
    8. asymsynap

      asymsynap New Member

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      You're right, I did it last summer in my driveway, minus the flywheel replacement. The upper bellhousing bolts were really nasty.

      Great writeup!

      I will add a link to this thread from another thread I started last summer:
      http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1985808
       
    9. HKUNZ

      HKUNZ Active Member

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      I really f***ed myself when i destroyed the flywheel on my x, and had it diagnosed as stripped bolts. Im gonna do this myself, and it wont be the first time ive seen the inside of my tranny, my question is where can i find some bolts for this thing? Ive tried autozone, advance auto, carquest, pep boys, oreilly, and now im just trying to find some bolts that can fit. any help is appreciated
       
    10. nitro71

      nitro71 Well-Known Member

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    11. dansnyder22

      dansnyder22 Active Member

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      Awesome, was looking for a writeup on this, awesome job.


      I am definitely bookmarking this for next month when I have to do it on my '92

      I may do my own writeup since I will have to be doing it on the ground. A different writeup for people without a lift.
       
    12. HKUNZ

      HKUNZ Active Member

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      how long did it take you to complete the project? ive got axcess to a lift, tools, and a guy who built a a plymouth trailduster with 44's from the ground up.
       
    13. akbossman

      akbossman New Member

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      Ok great write up
      .........but it took me awhile to find the transfer case drain. My 91 Navajo has a two piece rubber dampner bolted on it front of the drain bolt . I held the photo of yours while crawling around lol. I've got to get a socket for the drive shafts tommorrow. never knew they took special bolts down there . Wonder why good old SAE hex wouldn't work???

      son of a Ford Mechanic .......I should be able to do this!

      Edit

      the "special" socket is NOT needed. I used a 1/2" 12 point 12 mm and no problem. I went over the drive shaft instead on tring to get it loose from the bottom. The shaft is at a better angle on the top :)
       
      Last edited: July 3, 2009
    14. akbossman

      akbossman New Member

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      As I go i will try to post some of what I found doing it from jack stands.
      The FIRST Thing I would do is spend the $ and go to the exhaust shop and have them remove the exhause manifold and y pipe bolts and put some high temp lube or something on the bolts you will need to remove. this will make it so easy when it comes to the exhaust part. I broke 2 cheap sockets and a 3/4" ratchet (Craftsman) getting mine out because I coundn't find my good sockets. My air compressor is not very good so the impact is almost worthless. More later.
       
    15. dkchrist

      dkchrist Well-Known Member

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      Very good Writeup. This one almost needs a Sticky.
       
    16. akbossman

      akbossman New Member

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      One year later...........

      Still going strong . I probably have a little air in my system because I have to go all the way to the floor to shift. :navajo:
       
    17. chasire

      chasire New Member

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      Great writeup, it was nice having it all spelled out before I started on my clutch replacement.

      I found a trick for removal of the transmission on my 93 Navajo LX, without having to remove the exhaust crossover. Pull the heat shield off the crossover pipe and simply rotate the top of the transmission 90 degrees towards the drivers side. Transmission will slide right out straight to the rear of the vehicle. Going back in you can spot weld the heat shield right back on after transmission is back in the truck. It saved me some serious money, time and worry about yanking apart a rusted exhaust system.

      Hope it helps others in the same position.
       
    18. 2001FordRanger

      2001FordRanger New Member

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      folks this also works for a ford ranger also. just thought some of you folks should know.
       
    19. trush1492

      trush1492 Member

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      This worked out great for me this past weekend. Thanks for your post!!
       
    20. macho1

      macho1 New Member

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      Thanks for the info really! I have a 1992 explorer 4x4 that was given to me a few years back. I'm not much of a mechanic but since i've owned it i have replaced heater core, put new brakes all around , new hub and rotor assembly on both front , new master brake cyclinder, thermostat, new starter and a few other minor repairs but after reading this wonderful post and seeing the pictures and not having access to a lift i think the best word i could use is chicken. I'm just glad i found this great post before i would of gotton over my head. Thanks again for info. Anyone interested in a 92 explorer 4x4 ?
       
    21. mr cribb

      mr cribb US Army Retired Elite Explorer

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      It really is that easy, I just replaced the clutch in my 92 in September. I didn't replace my flywheel though, because it looked good.

      I got the "HD" clutch off ebay and a new ford slave from Tousley Ford (the vendor on here)... all is well. I have almost 4k miles on the clutch since replacement... I'm still impressed with how it shifts.

      clutch $75 shipped (I haggled), NIB ford slave $140 shipped, access to self help shop w/ fees $90.... total cost for me $305.

      This is SOOO true.... It's nice to have all my gears again.

      Just as a note to this.... If your trans mount looks old and crappy replace it... it's $20 form the parts stores. I had a bad almost violent vibration... this was the problem. And it's easier to do it while you've got the trans crossmember torn out to do the clutch.
       
    22. Eis Man

      Eis Man New Member

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      A manual transmission is much easier to remove if you have a body lift, My explorer has a 3 inch body lift and I didn't have to remove the exhaust as you are able to lift the transmission up and over it.
       
    23. EMG7895

      EMG7895 Well-Known Member

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      Not sure about sports, but it is possible to drop the trans without removing the exhaust on a 4 door.
       
    24. Ageman

      Ageman Elite Explorer

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      Good write up. I am one of the unfortunate ones that does not have a car lift. I did this on the floor and thank goodness for my body lift as mentioned above. I had to remove my exhaust though. When installing it I had to remove my front wheels and lower the front end down on a 4x4 beam and muscle the tranny with the transfer case up and in. The next time I do the job I will be buying a tranny jack.
       
      Last edited: November 8, 2011
    25. mr cribb

      mr cribb US Army Retired Elite Explorer

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      I am assuming that this is with the body lift on the 4 door models?

      Because I removed my exhaust to do the job.

      I know what you mean here. Had it not been for Ft. Campbell's self help auto shop for us to use I'd've been pretty miserable trying to do this in the driveway.
       
    26. EMG7895

      EMG7895 Well-Known Member

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      Nope no body lift, I was able to wiggle mine out in my drive way. used a ratchet strap to pull the exhaust towards the frame and some careful floor jack positioning and it came right out if I recall correctly. Getting it back did require an extra set of hands to rotate and position it correctly. Once again floor jack to position the motor just right really helped to get it stabbed. Bottom line with a helper and some creativity it shouldn't be a problem, and in my case much easier than removing 200k+ mile rusted exhaust bolts.
       

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