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clutch back together but cant get system bled

Discussion in 'Elite Explorer 911!' started by irishpilot, August 1, 2004.

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    1. irishpilot

      irishpilot New Member

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      Hi,

      I am helping my brother with his 92 5sp. we have done the clutch and put in a new slave cylinder. We have the Haynes manual and we have tried to do it the way it explains but get no pedal pressure and only dribbles of fluid comes out.
      we have it all together pretty much, but this is beating us.

      any tricks to this or any thing that can help us?

      please help me asap, any input is appreciated. :chug:
       
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    3. mechanic021

      mechanic021 Active Member

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      this may sound really dumb and dont know if its related to the explorers but is the battery hooked up? I work at a tranny shop and we once did a clutch on a 95 f150 and we tried and tried to bleed the clutch. then we saw the battery was unhooked. We hooked it up and the cutch bled out just fine.
       
    4. lonestar

      lonestar Well-Known Member

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      Mity-Vac

      I hear this is best way.
       
    5. irishpilot

      irishpilot New Member

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      no battery hookep up... well try it

      what is a mity-vac?

      update: We have the fluid coming out strong now, but still no pedal pressure?
      when we installed the slave cylinder, my brother unbolted the old one (2 bolts), then bolted the new in. I put the o ring on the male adapter for the hydralic line, and it is cliped into place like the haynes decribed, did we miss anything?

      will try the batter and be back.
      thanks for the replys
       
    6. irishpilot

      irishpilot New Member

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      Anymore Help Out There?
       
    7. Doug

      Doug I'm Awesome! Moderator Emeritus

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      There is a specific sequence to bleeding the clutch you have to follow, When i did my clutch last year i had the same problem. The process is outlined in either a haynes or chiltons manual if you can get your hands on one of them. I unfortunantly dont remember the exact process, basically you have to press the clutch to the floor and release it real fast like 10 times and keep doing it till it's blead. If you do a search you should be able to find the info here on the board. good luck.
       
    8. yluahale

      yluahale New Member

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      Hi Im having the same problem right now, the quick disconnect is the problem for us. Im attempting to find away to loose the qd coupling and use a regular coupling. Apparently when you replace all those parts and do any work with the hydraulics you should replace the hydraulic line because the qd coupling holds air that is almost impossible to bleed. Try replacing the line and coupling. Im still searching for a way to loose the quick disconnect all together, anyone have a clue?
       
    9. yluahale

      yluahale New Member

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      Same delimma

      :rolleyes:
      :banghead:
       
    10. Josh

      Josh Well-Known Member

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      Don't know if it will help, but, back to the F-150. I replaced my slave cylinder on my 92 F-150, and it was self bleeding. I had to pump the clutch for about 15 minutes to get it bled. I pumped so much, that I was getting nervous. I just don't know if the Explorer clutches are self bleeding or not.
       
    11. Ford_Racing_Guy

      Ford_Racing_Guy Well-Known Member

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      yes it certainly is a pain in the ass, its quite a long series to bleed the clutch, just did that to my brother's ranger awhile back, i have a printout of it somewhere i'll see if i can find it and then i'll post it here if need be
       
    12. anthonytony

      anthonytony Member

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      had this same problem with a 94 it was a bad slave,leaking inside.
       
    13. KPT

      KPT Well-Known Member

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      I couldn't any pedal pressure at all on mine when I changed it. Ended up letting it sit overnight and most of the air worked itself out.
       
    14. XonDubs

      XonDubs Active Member

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      this may sound dumb but when i changed the tranny,clutch,flywheel,and slave cylander on my probe i was suiping up the pedal didnt have much pressure, i found out i had to adjust the clutch pedal line.....you could try that, if you can....other wise i dont know lol
       
    15. Josh

      Josh Well-Known Member

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      Dubs,
      There is no line per say. It hydralic if I'm not mistaken.
       
    16. Josh

      Josh Well-Known Member

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      Never mind, I think you know that already. Its late and Im tired.
       
    17. 91EXNM

      91EXNM Member

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      This is pretty much the same problem we r having, but were able to bleed the clutch get pleny of pressure but no pedal to speak of.. and result is ... no gears and we aint movin..... ergo we r dead in the water here.....
       
    18. FordLover

      FordLover Active Member

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      Ugg, sign me up... same problem.. all new clutch, slave. put it all back together, and pedal feels like it's connected to NOTHING.. grr.
      Even followed the process in haynes manual, no luck.

      Anyone resolve their problem?
       
    19. fordby4

      fordby4 Member

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      when i put a new slave in my x i had the same problem. When i would go to bleed it I would get nothing just little drips at at time. I didnt figure it out for two days and then when my dad came over to help me he saw that I had the cap on the clutch resevoir with the little black thing inside and he told me to take it off and I did and the first time we bled it the clutch went from no resistence to plenty within 20 pumps of the clutch so I dont know if this will help but it worked for me. :usa:
       
    20. doubletfarm

      doubletfarm New Member

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      WEll, I'm trying to read some of the former posts but keep getting flipped to this screen to post before I can read other posts. So HI
       
    21. whitetrashfab

      whitetrashfab Active Member

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      This may sound stupid but the best way I found to bleed the clutch system is to drill out an old clutch res. cap and put schlader (sp?) valve in it right where the little breather hole used to be (I used one off the fule rail on a spare 4.0L I had laying around). Just add a little air and it will force the air out of the system that is traped without having to bench bleed or remove the master from the fire wall to get it lower in the system while bleeding. Just dont force all the fluid out! Basicly its a poor mans power bleeder. Just bleed the system untill you get fluid at the slave, top the res. off and put the cap on. Add a little air pressure to the system and have someone push the clutch in while you open the bleeder valve, it will force the air bubble right out of the system... Good luck!
       
    22. Cobraguy

      Cobraguy Elite Explorer

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      That's very creative! I would like it a lot more if you used a pressure regulator too so you don't pop the reservoir.
       
    23. whitetrashfab

      whitetrashfab Active Member

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      I thought about that but my air chuck I use to fill tires has a gauge built into it. I put a lot of pressure into the res. just to see if the hose between the res. and the master would blow off but I couldn't get it to even when I tried with a spare I had laying around. The air will start to leak around the threads of the res if you put to much air in or if the cap is not on well enough, you dont need a lot of air to bleed the system anyway.
       
    24. akbossman

      akbossman New Member

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    25. KPT

      KPT Well-Known Member

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      I used this vacuum pump/bleeder from HF. That and Ate super blue racing brake fluid and it bled easy. Did it with just the vacuum pump until the fluid ran blue. Then had a helper pump and hold the clutch and hit it with the vacuum pump a few more times. Looked in the inspection plate and the slave cylinder was moving as it should.
       
    26. magoo454

      magoo454 New Member

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      accidental second post of the same thing sorry.
       
      Last edited: May 6, 2010

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