Clutch end connection (nylon) pedal post.

[Rodger Snyder]

Clutch end connection (nylon) broke 1 inch down the nylon shaft. I need an inexpensive way connect to post on pedal?

 

[RangerX]

I'm guessing you're talking about this piece? It connects the pedal to the clutch master cyl? If so, you'll need to buy a new clutch master cylinder to get that plunge rod, and that's $40-50 last time I had to buy one.
Or if you're good at fabricating, you could make a stronger replacement, I had a friend make me one.

Welcome to the forum!

 

[Rodger Snyder]

I'm guessing you're talking about this piece? It connects the pedal to the clutch master cyl? If so, you'll need to buy a new clutch master cylinder to get that plunge rod, and that's $40-50 last time I had to buy one.
Or if you're good at fabricating, you could make a stronger replacement, I had a friend make me one.

Welcome to the forum!

View attachment 98333

I'm guessing you're talking about this piece? It connects the pedal to the clutch master cyl? If so, you'll need to buy a new clutch master cylinder to get that plunge rod, and that's $40-50 last time I had to buy one.
Or if you're good at fabricating, you could make a stronger replacement, I had a friend make me one.

Welcome to the forum!

View attachment 98333

That's exactly what broke (in the same spot)

Did you have to remove the clutch master cylinder, since your friend fabricated a new plunger rod?

 

[RangerX]

I didn't, but not sure if you would need to. That knob end clicks into the master, and I think it's just spring fingers that lock it in. I've gone through several of those pushrods, so I don't even keep it pushed all the way in the master, it just sort of sits against it. That way I can just unclip it from the pedal and pop a new one on.
If you're buying a new master, look in that opening and see how it all connects, that might give you help in undoing the broken one.

Moving this thread to the 1st gen section for you.

 

[RangerX]

And just to expand on this a little, to help you or anyone else who may read this, there's a couple factors that can cause this part to break, in my opinion.
One, its a weak, poorly designed part. It should have metal running the full length, up to and around the eye.
Two, when slave cylinders go bad, which is almost guaranteed in this transmission, and then causing great difficulty shifting into gear, this pushrod pays the price and bears the brunt of the driver wanting to push the clutch in further than it can go try to get it into gear, leading to the part eventually breaking as shown.
And, less common but worth mentioning, the clutch pedal pivot point will wear from extra force on the pedal beacause of the bad slave, and develop slop in the pedal movement. That translates into less clutch engagement, making it even harder to shift!

You may not have any of these other problems, but it's worth knowing about, and watching for.