Dismiss Notice



Register Today It's free! This box will disappear once registered!

Code 332.

Discussion in 'EEC IV' started by b4fore, April 15, 2010.

  • Searches ExplorerForum.com
    1. b4fore

      b4fore New Member

      Joined:
      April 13, 2010
      Messages:
      4
      Likes Received:
      1
      Trophy Points:
      0
      1994 explorer

      check engine comes on after driving a few minutes but engine runs great

      koeo
      111
      332

      think it is egr valve

      bolt holding bracket seems to seize up after about a turn...afraid it may break off

      any ideas on how to get the bolt out?

      since it runs great...will it hurt to just run the sucker as is?
       
    2. Support EF

      Join the Elite Explorers for $20

      Explorer Forum has probably saved you that much already, and will continue to save you money as you learn how to diagnose fix problems yourself, and learn which modifications work without having to experiment on your own. Elite Explorer members see practically no ads, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create more private Conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.


      to hide adverts.
    3. BrooklynBay

      BrooklynBay Moderator & long time member. Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

      Joined:
      November 11, 2005
      Messages:
      51,532
      Likes Received:
      127
      Trophy Points:
      93
      City, State:
      Brooklyn, NY
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      88 89 93 95 96 Aerostars
    4. MrShorty

      MrShorty Explorer Addict

      Joined:
      December 27, 2001
      Messages:
      5,076
      Likes Received:
      2
      Trophy Points:
      58
      City, State:
      Spanish Fork, UT
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      92 XLT and '87 Bronco II
      If I may, why do you thing the EGR valve is bad (other than the trouble code)? It seems that a lot of times, EGR codes are caused by something other than the EGR valve itself (a faulty EGR sensor, or a leak in the vacuum lines to the EGR, or a broken EGR tube from the exhaust manifold).
       
    5. b4fore

      b4fore New Member

      Joined:
      April 13, 2010
      Messages:
      4
      Likes Received:
      1
      Trophy Points:
      0
      likely ignorance

      can you point me at some info to troubleshoot all the components?
      thanks
       
    6. MrShorty

      MrShorty Explorer Addict

      Joined:
      December 27, 2001
      Messages:
      5,076
      Likes Received:
      2
      Trophy Points:
      58
      City, State:
      Spanish Fork, UT
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      92 XLT and '87 Bronco II
      The best troubleshooting resource I've found is a good manual. Most public libraries will carry Motor or Mitchell (look for the engine performance and driveability volume for your year). Some may even have a subscription to an online site (like alldata). I don't know of any good "free" sites that publish much detailed troubleshooting information.

      You might try putting DPFE or similar into this site's search engine. There should be plenty of threads to wade through.
       
    7. b4fore

      b4fore New Member

      Joined:
      April 13, 2010
      Messages:
      4
      Likes Received:
      1
      Trophy Points:
      0
      • Like Like x 1
    8. b4fore

      b4fore New Member

      Joined:
      April 13, 2010
      Messages:
      4
      Likes Received:
      1
      Trophy Points:
      0
      332 diagnostic procedure

      found this after some digging

      thought i would post it....maybe it will help the next guy

      Code Specific Test Procedure
      DTC 332 - Insufficient EGR flow detected
      Possible causes:

      EGR valve sticking closed
      EGR valve diaphragm leaks
      EVR solenoid sticking closed
      Loss of vacuum to or from EVR
      Open in EVR VPWR or driver circuits
      Leak or restriction in PFE/DPFE signal hoses
      To diagnose:

      Key off
      Connect a vacuum pump to the EGR valve.
      While observing the EGR valve, slowly apply 34kPa (10 in-Hg) vacuum.
      Note:EGR valve should begin to open with a very small amount of vacuum, approximately 3 to 5kPa (1-1.5in-Hg). EGR valve should remain open with vacuum applied or else vacuum diaphragm could be leaking if the valve closes immediately.
      Does the EGR valve open smoothly and hold vacuum?
      If EGR valve does NOT open smoothly and hold vacuum, Remove and Inspect the EGR valve for signs of diaphragm damage or leakage, contamination, unusual wear, carbon deposits, binding, and other damage. Service as necessary (including cleaning the unit with carb/throttle body cleaner). Clear continuous memory codes. Rerun tests.

      If EGR valve does open smoothly and hold vacuum inspect EVR solenoid hoses.

      Disconnect EVR vacuum hoses
      Verify that hoses are clear of any obsructions, properly routed and will hold vacuum.
      Are EVR vacuum hoses in good condition?
      If not service vacuum hoses as necessary (generally replacement). Clear continuous memory and rerun tests.

      If EVR vacuum hoses ARE in good condition reconnect EVR hoses and inspect PFE/DPFE signal line(s).

      Disconnect PFE/DPFE signal hoses at the sensor.
      Inspect sensor and signal line(s) for any signs of contamination, obstruction or leaks.
      Is there a fault indicated?
      If so isolate fault and service as necessary. Clear continuous memory codes and rerun tests.

      If not reconnect all components and inspect EVR solenoid.

      Note: The contents of this test procedure involve using a breakout box. More than likely you will not have access to one of these. If you find yourself in this situation you have options, but the inexperienced mechanic should probably not try to be creative with this test. Either have the EVR solenoid tested somewhere with the proper equipment or take the chance on it being bad and purchase a new one.

      Key off
      Disconnect ECU harness connector. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.
      Install breakout box and connect ECU to breakout box.
      Disconnect vacuum hose at EGR valve and connect hose to a vacuum gauge.
      Run engine to operating temperature and stabilized idle.
      Jump test pin 40 to test pin 33 at the breakout box which should turn ON the EVR solenoid.
      While reading the vacuum gauge, tap the EVR solenoid, wiggle the solenoid connector and solenoid vehicle harness. Look for a sudden drop in vacuum reading as you perform each action.
      Is there a fault indicated?
      If so, isolate and service fault as necessary. Reconnect all components, clear continuous memory, and rerun tests.

      If not, test procedures are unable to duplicate and/or identify fault at this time.
       
    9. scottfab

      scottfab Member

      Joined:
      October 18, 2010
      Messages:
      87
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      6
      City, State:
      Camas, Washington
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      03 EB, 97 XLT, 95 XLT
      If you find that air cannot pass through the EVR when 12V is applied
      then it is bad (sticking). NOTE: 12V can only be applied in one direction or
      you will blow the internal diode. The polarity can be determined by looking
      that the plug. The larger red wire is as one would expect the 12V side.

      If you find that the EVR is bad it can be rebuilt.
      Steps to refurbish the EVR:
      1. Remove the filter cap. It pries of easily enough.
      Later take the foam out and replace with either a ball of regular
      house insulation fiber glass or a cut piece of foam (porous)
      2. Us a small wrench or pliers to unscrew the hollow center shaft and remove it.
      3. Using a large flat blade screw driver pry up on the metal strap that
      goes across the top of the solenoid. Pry on one side then the other back
      and forth until it loosens then pull it out. If it bends a little don't worry you
      can straighten it later.
      4. Use a soldering iron of gun to heat the point where the electrical spade
      comes through the plastic. Once it is hot enough you can pull the spade out
      with pliers. Repeat for other electrical spade.
      Note these spades are not soldered in. Rather they are pressed into a connectors
      at the coil.
      5. Now pull out the coil carefully.
      6. Note at the bottom there is a nickle sized flat slug and spring. Take them out.
      7 clean off the slug.
      8. This next step is the key to operation. Take the 1/2 inch long spring and stretch it out to 4 inch then let it relax back to about 5/8 inch. Depending on the age and metal fatigue you may have to use 4.75 inch or a bit more.
      That's it. The spring is what fails. Now re-assemble.
      The spades can be heated to red hot then pressed back through the plastic.
      I have rebuilt two of these now for 95 Explorers.
       
    10. lester515

      lester515 New Member

      Joined:
      March 5, 2010
      Messages:
      3
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      0
      City, State:
      Cobourg,Ont.
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      '94 XLT 4x4
      I also have code 332 on my 94 Exploder.

      Right after I replaced my EGR tube,on the test drive afterward.Every thing looks normal,and it'll run fine in the drivway.Then i run it down the street,CEL comes on and my trany starts to hesitate to gear down upon initial eccelaration.One thread i read says the full blast of hot exaust will fry the EGR sensor.But then i'll shut 'er' down,light goes out in a bit but comes on again when im driving....please can someone help.
       
    11. lester515

      lester515 New Member

      Joined:
      March 5, 2010
      Messages:
      3
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      0
      City, State:
      Cobourg,Ont.
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      '94 XLT 4x4
      hey scottfab,do u know if the 94 EVR is the same as your 95 EVR?
       
    12. scottfab

      scottfab Member

      Joined:
      October 18, 2010
      Messages:
      87
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      6
      City, State:
      Camas, Washington
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      03 EB, 97 XLT, 95 XLT
      For some reason I did not get notified by email that you posted a question.
      Sorry. No doubt you found out by now that it is or is not. I have no idea :)
       
    13. 95ExploderOwner

      95ExploderOwner New Member

      Joined:
      August 12, 2011
      Messages:
      6
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      0
      City, State:
      Nashville, TN
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1995 Ford Explorer XLT
      Be Sure to Check the Vacuum Hoses on the DFPE

      :usa:Be sure to check the hoses on the DFPE (EGR pressure) sensor and make sure they do not collapse under the vacuum load. I replaced the original factory vacuum hoses on the DFPE and made 2 mistakes. Mistake #1: I bought a DFPE from Autozone and got the error code associated with intermittent signals from the DFPE (code 327, I think) and Mistake #2: The vacuum hoses that Autozone sold me were not nearly as thick walled as the factory originals, so they ended up collapsing under load and restricting flow; thereby, giving me the 332 engine code. The Autozone hoses were labeled for windshield washer and vacuum service, but they weren't nearly strong enough for the DFPE.

      I ended up buying another DFPE from NAPA, which got rid of the intermittent signal code. I also ended up replacing the EGR valve and EGR control solenoid (both NAPA parts) before I figured out that it was the new vacuum hoses that were causing the flow issue.

      So, if you are getting the 332 check engine code, I recommend replacing the DFPE sensor first and verify that the vacuum hoses connected to it don't collapse under vacuum load; they need to be thick walled. I also recommend buying your replacement parts from the dealer or a reputable aftermarket parts store like NAPA.
       
    14. Fowlbal

      Fowlbal New Member

      Joined:
      January 26, 2012
      Messages:
      12
      Likes Received:
      0
      Trophy Points:
      1
      City, State:
      Springfield, Ill.
      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      1994 Ford Explorer Sport
      7 year old info still good. Finally solved 332 cel. Passages behind egr valve in the intake were partial clogged, but not bad enough yet to make it run bad.
       

    Share This Page







    We Support Our Troops!