Discussion in 'Offroad Drivelines' started by MountaineerGreen, September 17, 2006.
1356 is way to wide. Will not fit between frame rails.
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Finally getting back on track with my hot rod Explorer after my maroon one was destroyed(thanks to Ricoh) Larry Pelletier paid for this white 97 V8 AWD
So I went scouring for a BW4406 scored two out of the same scrap yard both 97F150s manual shift and tail sensor. He only paid for one.
For those of you looking for yard parts this site is extremely helpful: www.car-part.com Hope that helps!
I had a machine shop install new u-joints in the driveshafts for my swap. He is highly recommended and he used Spicer u-joints. But the original u-joints had clips holding them in. The Spicer joints are pressed in and are flush with the holes in the shafts. Is this acceptable?
the clips might be on the inside of the ujoint holes
That's exactly what he pointed out to me. Thanks for the heads up.
Wanted to thank everyone again for all the information on this swap. I did mine about two years ago and it has worked flawlessly.
I just drove from Denver over the mountains to Grand Junction at 250 miles and the Ex got exactly 20 MPG. If you ever did this run it's lots of up and downs. I'm running 33" BFG All terrians with a TT and shackles. Used the GPS for miles traveled so miles aren't off due to larger tires. I kept speeds at 65 for most of the way because at 75 and higher it starts to get very busy without swaybar connected.
What are you guys seeing for mileage?
I'll be doing this swap June 13 (a week from today). If anybody feels like coming over and helping out I'd be grateful.. Probably grill some burgers and brats. You gonna make it Jon?
Yep. I am still planning on it.
What do you need me to bring?
Just knowhow and experience. LoL oh.. And your Mounty so we can crawl under it and see how its done.
Well my swap is nearly complete. All the work is done but the rear driveshaft, which I discovered today is the wrong one. I think they sold me a 4x2 shaft as it is way too long and wont even fit in the transfer case. Bad thing is I've already had new Spicer u-joints put in it and can't find any receipts for it. So I'm going to have to just eat the 150 I have in it. I'll have to go to Coffeyville (about a 30 mile drive) for the right shaft, and I don't have the funds to put new u-joints in it. LOL anyone wanna buy a driveshaft?
The joys of modding. If it makes you feel any better, we all have stories like this.
Might be able to swap over the ujoint , I would be surprised if they used the same size ...
Got it done. the correct driveshaft I picked up today had good u-joints and fit great. Sandi and i just test drove it and it runs and feels fine.
That's awesome! Glad you got it all wrapped up!
Quick question. How serious, if at all, is it if the front driveshaft slip joint is completely compressed? I had to get the shaft as short as possible to install it
It had to come back though a bit when it slid into the front yoke, and, since the front diff is stationary, it should be OK.
Those were my thoughts exactly, just nice to have some confirmation. Thanks a bunch. I do get some vibration at 75 and up. I think I'll rotate the driveshaft 180° when i get home, see if that helps.
Also my mileage actually appears to have gone down by about 1-2 mpg. Gonna hold off on figuring that out till later though. Probably extra drag somewhere.
And yes.. LoL i did the requisite burnout from a stop sign... Startled Sandi.
Mine fit super tight, completely compressed
I just spent the past 2 days with my 97 Mounty on a lift, following this thread to install. Here is what I discovered:
-The gas tank bracket does not have to be removed to bend it if you acquire the proper leverage on the bracket using 1-2 adjustable wrenches. I say this, but I did have it on a lift at the time, and I did have a buddy pulling the other wrench simultaneously. I was fortunate there.
-The alignment pin will be stuck in either the Trans or the TC when pulling the old one out. Mine was stuck on the TC. It required a healthy spraying of PB blaster, a torch, and a solid, nice pair of vise grips to finally ROTATE the pin and the subsequently work it out of the hole. It was a pain, but I got it.
-The best way I have found to "finesse" the body along the trans/transfer case tunnel for "fitment" is with a 5/8 steel rod and a hefty sledge. Once again, having a buddy and lift made this MUCH easier. I pity those who did not have this.
-The case is magnesium - it gums up cutting discs and the like. Use a metal cutting reciprocating saw blade to cut the tabs on the top of the TC
-When cutting the hole for the shift rod i found it best to drill small holes in about a 3x3 square around where the shift rod mount is located; I then increased the size of the hole from there with small parallel cuts, as needed. Hammer finnessing was also required to get enough clearance for the rod itself, which i periodically bolted on while i was working on this to check fitment.
If i think of more things that i learned during this, I will let you know.
I wanted to separate my "tips' post from my "help!" post, haha.
SO i installed my 4406 yesterday, everything went fairly well and I took my time making sure I did things right. I got to the point today where I installed the shift rod and tested everything while the Mountaineer was in the air on the lift.
Here is my problem: The 4406 case was taken apart and put back together by a shop. I bench tested it, and everything seemed flawless with it. Shifts smoothly, rotates beautifully, etc etc. In the truck, the thing does not disengage 4WD. The lever and linkage MOVE into the "2HI" position, but the front wheels STILL spin. I tried MANY things to disengage it, including rotating everything by hand, having a buddy move the shifter around, putting it in neutral and drive and even going in reverse for a time and moving the lever around. I even took it off the lift, with no rear driveshaft in it, and drove around a paved/gravel parking lot in 4x4 and 4LO moving the shifter through the motions to try and work it out. I drove in reverse for 200+ ft. There is no grinding, there is no weird clunks, the thing just acts like it is still in 4wd even when the lever is moved to the 2HI position.
I go to shop that rebuilt my T-case tomorrow, he is "very curious" as to the setup i now have with it and how it could possibly NOT be working. I am equally curious... and frustrated... after 2 days on a lift and blood, sweat, and... maybe a tear or two.
Any thoughts on this... would be greatly appreciated.
Are there any obstructions keeping the shifter from going fully forward into 2WD?
I'm wondering how you drove it with no rear shaft and still have fluid in the transfer case. :scratch:
Have you actually "driven" it with both shafts installed? the whole driveline may have to move a tiny distance to shift out of 4wd . I might be wrong about this but I thought I would bring it up.
The shift linkage is unobstructed and I have taken the linkage off and spun everything around whilst forcing the lever on the T Case by hand. The T case has four distinct positions and goes through all of them as it normally should (with the linkage on or handled manually)
the rear shaft being out does make it leak, but it's not particularly fast and I have a gear oil bottle fitted over the housing with a hose clamp over it to slow it down as best I can. I am actually picking up the rear driveline right now at a yard, the first yard I went to gave me the wrong one and I didn't realize it until I was doing the project. SO I shall give that a try!