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Convert V8 AWD to BW 4406 Manual Shift- A how to thread

Discussion in 'Offroad Drivelines' started by MountaineerGreen, September 17, 2006.

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    1. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      You can use the optional transfer case that 3rd gen's came with for 4WD. The BW4406 has a different bolt pattern than your transmissions. Starting in 2002, the transmissions had the same bolt pattern as the transfer cases available, AWD or 4WD, but changed from prior patterns. Here's the front part of your transfer case, which is a BW4410 if it's AWD;

      BW4410.JPG
       
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    3. Turboeverything

      Turboeverything New Member

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      Ah, thank you, is there anything additional I need to do to put in the 4x4 case?
       
    4. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      It should be similar to the wiring and module items that have to be done with the 2nd gen's. Hunt more and see if others here have done it. The TC will be the straight forward part, adding the electrical control system will take more time and research.
       
    5. Mountinheer

      Mountinheer Member

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      Did this swap over the weekend, and while I had a much easier job because of my 3" body lift, it was still pretty tough.

      Great write-up - I never would have tried this without all the details you all put up here. I must say I am shocked how much better this thing ('01 mounty) drives now. I almost rolled through a stop sign because the lack of front-end drag is so drastic.

      The reason I did this swap was because my front diff is eating itself alive, and I wanted to be able to unhook it to work on it, and the gas mileage and low range make it a no brainer.

      I would add that doing this in a driveway is basically impossible... I only accomplished it though pure willpower. I see no way to use a jack to lift it into position (without maybe a trans jack, special bracketry, and really tall jack stands). So my note here would be that you should be prepared to balance the beast on the tip of the front-end output housing, and magically shove it up onto the trans output shaft. This is not easy. What I mean by that is it's very difficult. If I did it again, I would remove the exhaust or gas tank.

      Other notes, I used a ratchet strap to pull the exhaust out of the way, and had to unstrap and lower the tank to get the bracket back on. Also, bent most of the gas tank flange down around the corner.

      Anyway, I'm very sore today but very happy I did this. Still no front driveshaft or shifter... but I'll get to that. All who've done this get major props from this wuss.
       
    6. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Well done, congrats. I'm aiming at doing it this Winter, and my strength isn't what it used to be. So I hope to jack the hell out of it and not rely on my arms as much. I have a cheap scissors trans jack, I'm about to test that now on my 5R55E trans of my 99 truck.
       
    7. Mountinheer

      Mountinheer Member

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      Jack would do fine if exhaust and/or gas tank are out of the way. *edit* actually, I think gas tank HAS to move to go straight in.


      I've got a nice coating of Mobile1 ATF on everything downstream of the T-Case now... anyone have some advice? Looks like input and rear output are weeping. Removed fill plug and some came out, so not a terrible leak (on level ground).

      Was the synth a mistake? Should I pull the bitch out and replace seals? Is there a good "seal rehab" product I can put in without destroying the thing?

      Thanks!
       
    8. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Synthetic is great, the best fluid always. I'd hope you have a poor rear seal, and change that first. Did you get the OEM type, with a large rubber extension? That's what you want, many aftermarket seals have just one outer seal. The good OEM version has two, the inner main seal, and the large outer part which is basically a great dust seal, keeping the inner seal clean.

      Hopefully you have a nicked seal, or a leak around the seal itself. Did you wipe a thin film of RTV on the outside of the seal? Many seals now come with a layer on them, prices have gone way up on seals in the last ten years.
       
    9. Ashbourne27

      Ashbourne27 New Member

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      This is a really good write up. I think I will plan on doing this in the near future once I find the time to replace my transmission with a new one...mine died. I can go maybe 100ft before it loses all forward gears. Not sure why so new transmission it is.
       
    10. traveler

      traveler Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Time to ask one more question.
      I have swapped in a 4406 TC and really enjoy it, however, I don't think the linkage between the shifter and the Tcase is the correct length. I've managed to shift it accurately by counting the detents. One "click" down is 4 high, the next is neutral, the next is 4 low etc. But I'd love for the shifter to be accurate, and hit the stops to prevent being in the wrong position. To do that I need a linkage that is the correct length. The linkage I am using came from a mid-90's F-150. Now what does all this have to do with my question?

      does anyone know exactly how long the linkage (from center of one hole to the center of the other) needs to be for the stops on the shifter to match the detents in the Tcase?
       
    11. joshuaj0214

      joshuaj0214 Elite Explorer

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      I made my linkage from a piece of 3/16 flat bar. I put the case and shifter in 4 high then just measured the distance from the center of the 2 posts. I drilled the 2 holes to fit tightly on the 2 posts then used a washer and a snap ring on each end to hold the flat bar on. It's been on there for 5 yrs now and I've never had an issue
       
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    12. traveler

      traveler Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      that sounds great! While the measuring sounds pretty straightforward, is there any way you could get a pic of the washers and snap ring? If not, cool, I'll work on it. Thanks for the tip
       
    13. fordoldfart

      fordoldfart New Member

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      My grandson and myself started the conversion from AWD to manual TC(4406) on Saturday on a 1997 Eddie Bauer. Should finish tomorrow. Had to get a new slip yoke boot for front shaft. It’s a little more complicated this the write Up I have driven it without the front shaft. And it drives fine. Will have to check the speedometer for accuracy. And yes if I have to ever pull it the gas tank is coming out. I used the speedo gear from the Awd tc. It is a 19 tooth pink. The speedo gear in the 4406 was a 20 tooth red. Any thoughts on that. The shifter knob is very close to the Eddie Bauer center console. Time will tell.
       
    14. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Welcome to the forum. I suggest starting with the original speedo gear. The output shafts generally have the same VSS tooth count, so the VSS gear would need to remain the same. I don't know the output shaft tooth count of the BW4403 versus BB4406, but differences are rare. The AOD had at least two output shaft tooth counts, 7 and 9 IIRC.
       
    15. Mountinheer

      Mountinheer Member

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      For what it's worth... when it starts to leaking fluid from trans... it's easy to scoot it back 1/2" (leave 2 bolts in), rip out gasket, and apply RTV with hacksaw blade.

      Well, maybe you're better at saving old gasket than I was...
       
    16. fordoldfart

      fordoldfart New Member

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      Got it all togather seems to drive fine. Will test speedometer with a gps unit tomorrow. Hooked up an indicator light to show when it is in 4wd.
       
    17. fordoldfart

      fordoldfart New Member

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      Wound up putting the f-150 seedometer gear (red 20 tooth) gear back in. Speedometer is only off 2 mph at 65 mph. Truck is doing 63 when speedometer says 65. I want to thank everyone on this thread for there input. It made this swap possible.
       
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    18. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Well done, and thanks for the update. We like to hear of successful results.

      The tires you use can make a 2mph difference at speed. The stock 30" 16 size is the closest to perfect speedometer size for 2nd generations. The 29" 15's usually have an accuracy like you have now, just a couple MPH slower than indicated. I just had 29" tires(255/65/16) and swapped to a 29.5" tires(245/70/16 Discoverer AT3) with off road tread(deeper), so I'm very close to exact with these. So you can adjust slightly in the future with new tires, if you want to. Add 10mm to the section width, that's about 1/2", and each series change(70 to 65), is one inch of height.
       
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    19. fordoldfart

      fordoldfart New Member

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      Thanks for the input it is running 235-75-15. Tires.
      Ps it anyone needs the linkage bar from the shifter to the TC. I have a spare. Will let it go for shipping.
       
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    20. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Bingo, I think you have the intended speedometer gear and accuracy. That stock size tire does leave the reading a hair fast, my 91, 93, and two 98's had those same tires on them. I like the 16" wheels better from my 99, so I have three sets of those now(one for snow). Enjoy that big BW4406 now. Night,
       
    21. SupaSwope

      SupaSwope Active Member

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      Can someone help me with a question I am having. I am having no problem locating the Manual TC, Rear 5.4L Driveshaft, Front 4.6L Drive Shaft.

      The 4406 has a slip yoke for the rear drive shaft. What slip yoke do I need to get to go on the TC side to work with the rear drive shaft? From what truck? the same as the expedition? or F150 with the 4406? will it already have it?
       
    22. MAS Tequila

      MAS Tequila Elite Explorer

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      From the 1st page of this thread, "1997-200? Expedition/Navigator 4x4 rear driveshaft. Suspension set up makes no difference that I can tell. Must be from a 5.4 V8 equipped vehicle".
       
    23. SupaSwope

      SupaSwope Active Member

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      I know the part, Just the pictures on the first page show the u joint disconnected from the slip yoke that slides into the TC. Most reference photos have it off unless I am looking for the drive shaft pictures itself.
       
    24. delexploder

      delexploder Elite Explorer

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      if you buy it from a salvage yard it should come with it
       
    25. SupaSwope

      SupaSwope Active Member

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      Thanks for the clarification. 50% of the junkyard this weekend. Drive shafts will cost me less then $30, TC around $50 if I find one.
       
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    26. shawnwayne42

      shawnwayne42 New Member

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      Is there anyone that has figured out how to use an electric transfer case?
       

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