Creative ignition system

[albi1cnobi1]

man after my own heart.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

hey rofocowboy84 the switch is made by NETAMI. part #67-0905 quick starter switch kit

 

[Rofocowboy84]

Get a magnetic ring, lots of cool ones , just use google. Then you install the PATS bypass module, and hide a magnetic switch behind the switch panel you plan to mount your start button in. When your hand goes to start it, the ring will trip the switch, which sends a signal to the PATS bypass module, and will allow you to start the truck.

If you want you can add a hidden bypass switch somewhere, so if the truck is at the shop, just turn it on and then you wont have to divulge your magnet secret.

Hmmm.....good idea, but I'm not really a ring-wearing kinda guy....

 

[inh]

Me either, but its a cool trick =]

A keypad would probably be the best option. Get one of these, its like what my dad uses:

http://www.scorpion-security.com/auto/keypads.htm

 

[Rofocowboy84]

Well I'm thinking it shouldn't be all that hard to get an RFID system integrated into this, that way you don't have a gaudy looking keypad somewhere, and all you have to do is sit down, flip the ignition switch, and push the start button....

 

[inh]

RFID would work, but I think the distances are a little short. I remember when I was looking in to this, I was going to do it with a small bluetooth keyfob. It would also be harder to defeat, I do NOT addivse you rely on RFID for car security. All I need do to is hit yo with an RFID reader at somepoint, and copy the info your RFID card spits out, and I now have access to your car...

 

[Rofocowboy84]

RFID would work, but I think the distances are a little short. I remember when I was looking in to this, I was going to do it with a small bluetooth keyfob. It would also be harder to defeat, I do NOT addivse you rely on RFID for car security. All I need do to is hit yo with an RFID reader at somepoint, and copy the info your RFID card spits out, and I now have access to your car...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't Bluetooth a dual-active system, ie, both receiver and transmitter have to be powered? I'm not too keen on switching out batteries in my key fob every month or so, and not being able to start my car in the middle of nowhere just because my key fob died. With RFID, only the transciever/reader needs power, correct?

I'm not too worried about people reading my key fob. First of all, if someone was just randomly walking around the mall picking up RFID codes and got mine, what are they chances they'd know that the Silver 2004 Explorer XLT Sport out in the parking lot has a custom keyless ignition system that uses that code? After all, the system like Nissan (and other manufacturers, I just know Nissan's b/c of my friend), is RFID, right? To me, RFID in this sense seems reasonably safe. Plus, at this stage in the game, I still plan on using the regular key/key fob/number pad to unlock the car, and this system only to start it, so the thief would still have to break into my car.

 

[Rofocowboy84]

I've been mulling something else over in my head. Does the PATS only matter while trying to start the car, or does it have to be "happy" the whole time or else it shuts the engine off?

What I'm thinking is, say you leave for work or whatever, but forgot something in your house, so you turn around, pull into your driveway, and get out. If the key fob was still in your pocket, once the transceiver lost the signal and therefor stopped the signal to the bypass, would the PATS system shut the car off, or since the engine is already running, the PATS system would no longer matter?

Also, how much harder do you think it would be to tie this into the OEM ignition system, that way in case this one fails, you still have the good ol' key to start your car?

Excuse me if I'm rambling, I'm going on 33 hours without sleep, lol....

 

[inh]

PATS is only in effect when starting, and I've found smal bluetooth keyfobs with excellent battery life =]

 

[BrianDye]

im gonna deff. try our final decision on what kind of ignition and everything...as long as its not too expensive

 

[Rofocowboy84]

PATS is only in effect when starting, and I've found smal bluetooth keyfobs with excellent battery life =]

Ooh, do share!

How's the range on them? And by "excellent battery life", you mean, like 5 years or so? Do they come with a transceiver too? I've been looking around at different RFID systems, but if this bluetooth works better, I'm all for it.

Alright, now to get some sleep. I'll be back on in the evening, and maybe, just maybe we can get this whole thing figured out and start speccing out the different parts, lol...

Oh yeah, and the PATS thing is a huge relief, once we get the bluetooth/RFID figured out, that should pretty much be it....lol...I'm so excited...

 

[Rofocowboy84]

Did everyone else fall asleep too? In researching it more, if we want to get a decent range of like 2' or so, we're going to need an active RFID system, so the Bluetooth will actually be better, because either way the key fob needs a battery. The only question is, will BT be any harder to program than RFID? I know with my BT headset I had to type in the password on the phone and get the phone to accept it and stuff....

 

[inh]

BT would be easy to control. Sure it's a bit more work than RFID, but if you can get it to work riht, based off of signal strength, as you walk closer, it could unlock the doors, start the car, etc..

I'm too short on time and motivation to work this one out for you guys though, sorry.

 

[Rofocowboy84]

BT would be easy to control. Sure it's a bit more work than RFID, but if you can get it to work riht, based off of signal strength, as you walk closer, it could unlock the doors, start the car, etc..

I'm too short on time and motivation to work this one out for you guys though, sorry.

That's fine, I'm willing to work it out....but do you happen to remember the BT kit that you were talking about?

 

[inh]

It was on sparkfun.com, one of the SMD modules, draws 2mAh in low power mode.

 

[Fabbed4d88]

If you guys can get past the PATS it's totally worth it. I went through two columns because it gets so clod here the ignition rod would become brittle and break. This was the fix all for me. I still need the key to unlock the column but I don't mind that.

http://fordtruckworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/Fabbed4d88/709590.jpg

 

[albi1cnobi1]

anybody out there know how to disco the steering lock in the column. i've got my pushbutton ignition installed, keeping the PATS system intact. i have a hidden magnetic switch to activate a bypass module. unless you activate the bypass before you power up the ignition, it will not start. my problem is the steering lock. i don't want to lose the key cylinder because i still want the ability to have stock function and i can't see how to sisable it. any thoughts

 

[Rofocowboy84]

anybody out there know how to disco the steering lock in the column. i've got my pushbutton ignition installed, keeping the PATS system intact. i have a hidden magnetic switch to activate a bypass module. unless you activate the bypass before you power up the ignition, it will not start. my problem is the steering lock. i don't want to lose the key cylinder because i still want the ability to have stock function and i can't see how to sisable it. any thoughts

Mind explaining how you did it? I think the only difference with the years would be a different bypass module...

As far as the sterring wheel lock, I believe Maniak has done it before, don't know about our X's though...

 

[albi1cnobi1]

no not at all. i basically intercepted all the wires that i needed under the steering column. there are 2 constant 12v in there to feed your relays. you need 2 relays for the truck and 1 for the bypass. the 1st one is for the ignition (there are 2 on the explorer, you can tie them together). the 2nd one is for the starter and the accessories. this one is a double throw, meaning there is a switch contact when there is no power to the relay and another for when there is power to it. the 3rd relay is to trigger the bypass module. the bypass needs a (-) or ground to simulate the PATS key. if i can figure out how to post a picture it will be alot easier to explain. those are the basics but a pic would show all of the wiring. i'll work on that later to try to get it to you asap. and no the bypass module should be the same, its a universal. i'll check the years covered

 

[Rofocowboy84]

no not at all. i basically intercepted all the wires that i needed under the steering column. there are 2 constant 12v in there to feed your relays. you need 2 relays for the truck and 1 for the bypass. the 1st one is for the ignition (there are 2 on the explorer, you can tie them together). the 2nd one is for the starter and the accessories. this one is a double throw, meaning there is a switch contact when there is no power to the relay and another for when there is power to it. the 3rd relay is to trigger the bypass module. the bypass needs a (-) or ground to simulate the PATS key. if i can figure out how to post a picture it will be alot easier to explain. those are the basics but a pic would show all of the wiring. i'll work on that later to try to get it to you asap. and no the bypass module should be the same, its a universal. i'll check the years covered

Do you have a Photobucket or similar website account?