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CV Axle Replacement How To (Pictures)

Where did you put the Mercon ATF, and was it ATF or Mercon, or Mercon V?

The differential takes the grease(75/90(or 110 etc(depends on towing option))), don't put ATF in that. The front axles go into the diff, the transfer case is behind the transmission. The Mercon V goes into the transfer case on the back of the TC, where the rear driveshaft comes out of it. There are two large plugs, labeled "FILL" and "DRAIN".

If you put ATF into the diff, then you need to get that out, using a suction pump is best. Welcome,
 



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I guess the CV Axle's go into the front differential...My mistake! I think I should try to drain it, make sure I get as much out as I can.

Thanks for the quick reply!
 






I mentioned a pump because it cannot be drained besides removing the whole thing to get the cover off. A common pump from a parts store for doing oil changes will work great. Just insert it in the fill hole and work it down and in.
 












There's a third option too... Drill a small hole in the bottom of the housing next to a rib, and install a drain plug. My trans shop did it for me... Works like a charm!

-Joe
 






I had the small pump, bought it at K-Mart a few years ago to try it on my Ranger when the drain plug was frozen into the aluminum oil pan and I was afraid of cracking it (broke 2 sockets on it!). There's a kink in the dipstick tube that blocked the plastic tube, so I'd never used it. Found it in the garage (no small feet in MY garage..) after I replied to CDW6212R.

Checked the diff this morning to see that, yes, I'm not getting that cover off. The pump worked great. I kept working the tube around as the fluid stopped pumping and believe I orked it all the way to the end of the differential, but I'm sure there is enough residue in there to compromise the stuff I put in.

The seal is gone (obviously) and it looks like the U-Joints on the drive shaft are the cause of this ticking noise that started me on this adventure, so I'll be back under it this weekend and will change the fluid again at that time.

For what t's worth to someone else, I'm chasing a ticking or clicking noise that gets faster as you accelerate. I'm kicking myself now for not thinking of the U-Joint first, but then I wouldn't have found the cracked boot on the CV joint or the differential being down a quart out of 1.8 quarts.

I'll add an update when I'm done if that does it.

Thanks again to everyone, this website is fantastic! I like the idea of drilling and tapping to add a drain plug.
 






broke another CV :rolleyes: they are much easier to replace the 2nd time
 






Centrifugal Clutch

For what it's worth to someone else, I'm chasing a ticking or clicking noise that gets faster as you accelerate. I'm kicking myself now for not thinking of the U-Joint first, but then I wouldn't have found the cracked boot on the CV joint or the differential being down a quart out of 1.8 quarts.

I have a similar clicking noise in the front differential, which i originally thought was the Driver side shaft (can't always be certain of problematic sound's origins with the 5.0 :thumbsup:) So i replaced it no problem and replaced the sway bar links while i was at it (were still stock at 195,000miles) I bought this truck in the spring of this year for $500.00 and didnt see it until right before i picked it up- MINT condition everything, radiator was only problem. Guy was going to give it to charity... lol

Runs like a dream in every way- but from what im told and what i hear when somebody else drives it that the front driveshaft where it meets the transfer case has a unique sort of centrifugal clutch with a ball in the center, 3 or 4 bolts around it, and it engages when the truck accelerates. Try driving the truck and when you're up to about 45 and the clicking is pretty good, then take your foot off the gas and see if the clicking lessens significantly or disengages. If it does, then you have this problem- im surprised mine lasted as long as it did, up to the 194,000 miles marker... Im to replace it today hopefully if i get the part. :( Hope all is well with everyone':salute:
 






Good write up!!!
a little info:

Axle Nut 157-212 Ft Lbs. Ideal: 170

Hub to Knuckle Bolts 70-80 Ft Lbs.
REMEMBER: DO NOT OVER TORQUE. DO NOT TIGHTEN WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH/GUN!!!!!!!! OVER OR UNDER TORQUING IS THE LEADING CAUSE OF PREMATURE BEARING FAILURE!!!!!!

I have replaced probably 10 cv's in my ranger over the last 5 years, (35's and snow wheeling tear them up quick) and the only thing that i would advise is not to tighten the axle nut much over 160 ftlbs. I did this on one and it made it about 1/4 mile from the house before it broke and sent the tire rolling into a garbage can. Upon inspecting the axle I could see where it had twisted and sheared. This also ruins a hub assembly, caliper mounting bracket, brake line, dust shield, and right front fender. Oh well at least it matches the other side now.:)
 






WOnderful, the only added thing is that when removing the cv front the xfer case i find that a very careful and and flat edge screwdriver works great for removing the end from the xfer case. NOTE: be sure you are careful and don't get into a hurry, otherwise it's very easy to damage the seal on the xfer case.
 






the cv doesnt go into the transfer case.. you mean the differential?
 






the cv doesnt go into the transfer case.. you mean the differential?


That's what i meant. I have been doing too many repairs here lately, just making sure i am ready for the nasty winter we are supposed to get.
I live in the St. Louis area of Missouri, In Illinois.
 






how to replace cv joint on 96 ford explorer?

Thank you so much on your out standing infos.
I almost returned the cvj to part store but I am going to try again tomorow.
Thanks again Mountaineer Green!:thumbsup:
 






how to replace cv joint on 96 ford explorer?

Thank you Evan,
It was wonderful.
I did replace CV joint on yesterday.
I was able to disengaged upper ball joint after removed pinch bolt. But I had to sevral poundings of upward whacking with sladge hammer and 2X4 to break free. Every things went smooth after that.
After succesfully installed CN joint and test drove, I noticed hearing some kind of whining sound from there while I am driving at low speed with window opened. Test driving was very good except the whining or siren sound (it's kind of low but noticeble).
Any body has any idea?
Dale
 






maybe your hub/bearing
 






wow
thanks i will lern a lot here :)
 






2003 ford explorer

I change the wheel hub bearing when the axle nut came off it took the threats with it can it still used the cv axle (rethreading it) or do i need too buy a new one
 






I have a 2002 mercury mountaineer AWD will it pretty much be the same thing?
 






Should be.... except yours will have the coilover shock in there as well. That may need to be removed to clear the inner CV joint, but I think it'll clear with the coilover in place (too lazy to look it up at the moment).
 



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when i turn the wheel all the way to the left and turn into a pothole a always hear a clunk. is this do to a bad CV?:salute:
 






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