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D-Ranged

Discussion in 'Offroad Projects' started by josh40601, January 19, 2011.

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    1. josh40601

      josh40601 Elite Explorer

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      lol, that's what my fiance says. We call the Ranger our half-price JK. All these bad ass mods on a truck that still gets waxed. This one is built for camping and exploring. No more tight, tough obstacles that could damage the body. That's what I have the Explorer for. I'm sure it will get a few dings and dents, but not trying concrete ditches with this one either. And I probably won't be trying the ditch again in the sploder either. lol
       
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    3. josh40601

      josh40601 Elite Explorer

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      Drove it last night to the local off-road cruise in. Lots of jaheeps and one other cool ass Ford.

      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]

      The truck lacks in the power department bad, but no CEL was on the dash. Plugged a reader in and found out the bulb was shot. 10 codes came up.

      [​IMG]

      Now I get to try playing engine mechanic as I try and figure this shit out. I think 1st is to put the evap canister in from the same model explorer the motor and pcm is from. Then go from there.
       
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    4. Rick

      Rick Pumpkin Pilot Staff Member Admin Elite Explorer

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      Nice looking Ranger! We need to get him out of the shopping malls and onto the trails ;)
       
    5. Devan

      Devan Elite Explorer

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      I just spent a couple hours reading through your whole thread, excellent work keep it up. My 01 BoostedXPLR Sport is lifted a couple inches and I got slightly larger tires on it but I do wanna lift it another 5-7 inches maybe more, I would have done it by now the only thing holding me back is without the subwoofer in my truck the roof rails just barely rub on my garage door when I pull it in. And I have to remove the arm that connects the garage door motor track to the door so that the door will raise enough to get my truck in. BTW my garage door motor is like 50 yrs old and still works like a champ but I wish I could increase the stop point for when the door opens all the way. When i typed the company name in on google for my garage door motor I couldnt find anything, after an hr I did find a company time line and it showed the company was bought like 10 times over since it had the name that is on my motor lol. But that was the only thing I could find. Ill never change that motor because "they dont build em like they used to".lol

      If you need help in diagnosing those codes I can send you the Ford pinpoint tests from the Ford tech site out of the workshop manuals and any wiring diagrams you might need.

      With all that suspension work Im surprised you havent invested in any performance mods besides maybe a CAI and exhaust. You should look into a supercharger or a 5.0 stroker also maybe with a supercharger ;)

      *Update*- I was able to adjust the stop points on my garage door lol so now I don't have to remove the arm that holds the garage door to get the truck in anymore lol. Plus I made the door close so smoothly now, its just right. Ive actually decided to start building a stroker 4.0 which strokes it out to 4.3. I was gonna swap a 5.0 OHV or 4.6 DOHC but Ive invested to much money and time into my 4.0 to just ditch all the stuff I bought for it. But after I swap in my built motor and built trans I will do a 5-7 inch lift maybe more. But before I can do that I have to replace my rocker panels so that I can put some running boards on it. Id like to install some fold out running boards
       
      Last edited: February 20, 2018 at 4:06 AM
    6. josh40601

      josh40601 Elite Explorer

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      Hi Devan, thanks for the comments, and best of luck on fitting the larger explorer in the garage! Neither of my trucks fit in mine. As for the help, I would greatly appreciate those tests.

      I just want it running well in current form before I mess with anything performance wise
       
    7. josh40601

      josh40601 Elite Explorer

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      Talked to the EFI Guy today about some of the codes. He's going to reflash the ECU to remove all the emission codes. He's also going to flash for the tire size and gearing along with removing the VSS.

      He also told me to check the fuel rail on the engine to see if it was an older style or newer style. I didn't remember, so I did his check. Older engines (pre-99) ran a fuel rail return system, whereas newer engines (99-01) ran an in-tank return system. So I checked my fuel lines
      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]
      Looks like a rail return system, but I still don't know what that 3rd line is for.

      Also said the PSI at the rail with engine off, key on should be 39ish (he told me the exact number, but this is close enough for me) PSI. I rented a fuel pressure gauge and the 1st prime was 20 psi, 2nd prime went just over 40, then dropped back to 39ish. 3rd prime went to around 70 then dropped down to 39ish. I didn't test it running. I'll do that tomorrow.
      [​IMG]

      Shipping the ECU out this week, then will get back on it once it gets back. Also ordered some new leaf spring perches. Going to go to the junkyard next weekend to pull a set of 1500 springs. The truck currently has 2500 springs in the rear and while they flex really well, they ride like complete shit.
       
    8. Devan

      Devan Elite Explorer

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      Dude hes prolly just gonna make it so those evap codes don't set the check engine light off you cant actually get rid of them unless you know how to properly disable the evap monitor within the tune or you fix the problem. That p0443 code is prolly causing the P0453 and P1451 code due to a possible problem with the evap purge valve or the wiring to it and that could also be causing your banks to run rich.

      I also just read that your motor is out of a different vehicle. What year is your ranger and what year explorer did your motor and pcm come out of? Most likely the fuel tank and lines and evap setup is different. Id be careful because your tank might be building pressure that is suppose to be released by the evap system and its not being purged properly. But sendin your PCM to somebody to have them disable codes from setting the MIL off is not the answer. And if you really want your tire sizes and gear ratios to be right then youd prolly be better off going to ebay and spending a couple hundred bux on an SCT power programmer and retuning the vehicle tire revs per mile and axle ratios yourself. Prolly cheaper then sending the pcm to EFI GUY. then you could spend a few more hundred bux and buy the SCT advantage 3 software like I have and learn how to change the over 3000 parameters within the vehicle PCM to get it runnin real good.

      Don't you want your engine to look like this and be able to tune it and diagnose problems yourself?
       

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