Dana 44 Identity?

[94 Crawler]

Hey guys I think FatCat has coilovers on a radius arm set up (the arms are cage parts) and it seams to flex pretty good. Also the long arm set up on Jeff's Ex (should i say ex EX) is kust a different radius arm set up and it has mad flex. The only way to keep a good pinion angle wihe 3 or 4 link is to use a setup like IZ with a long upper arm. My oppinion is th keep a proper pinion angle your pivot for the radius arm needs to be at the center line of the cv at the t-case. Cut your wedge and inner c's set the pinion angle to zero at the front diff (you can get some cv's that will operate at some extreame angles.) re set your caster at ride hight (inner c's) call it golden. I do have a cast in wedge housing they came in broncos the non cast in wedge huusings were in trucks. I will sell the whole axle cheap. I'm looking for a 60. Iwill most likely be running a hybrid setup mix of IZ's lower arm and the long arm Heep set up described in Jeff's thread with the ability to remove the rite side upper link so it will work like a wristed arm or I may wrist the axle. Still a while out on this so it is definatly in the design faze. Good luck and rock on.

 

[BKennedy]

Okay, when I started this thread, I just wanted to know what 94 Crawler just said...........where my axle came from. This thing just got all jacked up. Thanks for all the information guys, now to the shed (I need to mow the lawn, and wash up the Explorer, and finish tearing down that axle). When, and its a big WHEN, I do the SAS, its going to be a Early Bronco wristed radius arms setup, with a EB'ish width axle. Like Froader and DWD's. Its simple, and it works very well. And, it will cost me around $2,000.00 (I am cheap, I admit it), learning a lot along the way.

 

[RangerX]

Okay, when I started this thread, I just wanted to know what 94 Crawler just said...........where my axle came from. This thing just got all jacked up.

Yeah, but what alot of good info and opinions in this thread!

 

[94 Crawler]

It may add some cost to your swap but i would still check into the Cage arms with the wild horses coils you should get some great flex. I wish I could set my mind to use what I already have. I have a bad habit of bigger, badder, faster which has cost me a lot in the long run. Build it like you want and keep us posted. I look every day for new sas threads.

 

[BKennedy]

Yeah, but what alot of good info and opinions in this thread!

Great Information............................but you know what they say about opinions.........:

 

[94 Crawler]

Everybody has one? LOL

 

[BKennedy]

Everybody has one? LOL

Exactly.:
Today, I got the hubs off, and its not too bad in there. Some nasty ten year old grease, but the Warn hubs seem to be fine. Took me about an hour to figure out there is a retainer clip around the inside of the hub. That's what I get for looking the instructions up on the internet. Looks like I can save the hubs, but the rotors, studs, and calipers are history. I can't believe how inexpensive replacement parts are for a 1978 Ford F-150. I really like the look of the disk brakes, they are huge compaired to the dinky Explorer brakes.

 

[Stic-o]

Brian, Just oder the rebuild kit from Bronco graveyard, it includes everthing for the axle, so you have no problems for $545.

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-22180_d44_outer_rebuild_kit.htm

Now for calibers, you have two choices, go with factory bronco calipers (I think I have a spare set) or go to 70's T-bird's calipers. Now the Tibird calipers bolt right in and take the bronco brake pads, the big differance is the Piston is about 30% bigger or something. I have the ti bird calipers on my truck, and they are great (I do have a extra brand new t-bird caliper for one of the sides, if you need it). The other differance is plumbing, the fitting are different, so you'll need to get those (BC Bronco), but again I think I have a few spares of the banjo bolts

 

[BKennedy]

Brian, Just oder the rebuild kit from Bronco graveyard, it includes everthing for the axle, so you have no problems for $545.

Its missing the axle bearings, u-joints, etc.. I like the idea of having everything new, but if I did that, I might as well go buy a new D44 from Curry or Dynatrak.

My Partner just bought a 2000 Wrangler; ARB front, Detriot Rear, 4:56 gears, Rubicon Express Longtravel kit, Warn 9500 winch, bumpers, MTR 35's, etc.. I think we are going to have another green Jeep wheelin' with us soon.

 

[Kirby N.]

Okay, when I started this thread, I just wanted to know what 94 Crawler just said...........where my axle came from. This thing just got all jacked up. Thanks for all the information guys, now to the shed (I need to mow the lawn, and wash up the Explorer, and finish tearing down that axle). When, and its a big WHEN, I do the SAS, its going to be a Early Bronco wristed radius arms setup, with a EB'ish width axle. Like Froader and DWD's. Its simple, and it works very well. And, it will cost me around $2,000.00 (I am cheap, I admit it), learning a lot along the way.

That axle is out of A 1976 OR 1977 f150. They are one of the most desirable 44s because they 1- have 1/2" thick axle tubes like a Dana 60, 2- they have welded on c bushings which can be ground off and moved. Good find

My axle is a 76 f150 just like yours. I narrowed it to EB width and used EB coils and Radius arms. For the record, if I were doing it again I would use Pottsys Coil Buckets, and I would not narrow the axle, but I would move the c bushings in 2" per side (just like the above post) to get the springs in the right spot.

If you run the right off set rims with FW axles, it will look stock anyway. Mounting the tires out further from the coils will give them more advantage on the coil and allow them to flex better. I would also do exactly as I did with my buckets mounting them on the frame dir ectly (no spacers) and notching the drivers to go over the hump and welding it on/ bolting it on.

 

[BKennedy]

That axle is out of A 1976 OR 1977 f150. They are one of the most desirable 44s because they 1- have 1/2" thick axle tubes like a Dana 60, 2- they have welded on c bushings which can be ground off and moved. Good find

The guy I got this from has at least one more just like this one. The one I saw he only wanted $70.00 for because it had been in a rollover severe enough to twist/bend the radius arms. I bet with the 1/2" thick tubing, it should be fine though. Thanks for the information. Are the brakes the same from 76 - 78?

 

[zainyD]

Are the brakes the same from 76 - 79?

Yes, all the Ford 1/2 ton brakes are the same from 76-79.

 

[BKennedy]

Yes, all the Ford 1/2 ton brakes are the same from 76-79.

Thanks, that helps a lot. I should have asked this before. Are the knuckles, ball joints, hubs, etc. the same as well?


I also have a question about axle length, and this is for everybody. I do plan on cutting down the axle, because full width is just too wide. I like the stability of full width, but I do not like the fact that I will not be able to drive it on the street anymore (I have to at least make it look like I am playing by the rules).

What if I cut the axle down four inches instead of the usual six?
I know I would need custom length axles for the right or passenger side for life, but I am willing to live with that if I do not end up with the bowed coils I have seen on so many rigs. That would give it a little more stability, and I don't think it would be so noticable as a full width. Also the pumpkin would be over a little more to the driver side where it belongs.
Would the radius arms still line up okay with the frame?

I like the fact that I have a lot of time to think about this and plan it all out. the SAS won't happen until at least next year sometime. Unless, of course, if I smoke the TTB D35. Maybe I should just drive around with the ARB locked all the time, that would take care of it. Who am I kidding, I can't intentionally break anything. Besides, I can sell that junk to help pay for the trailer.

 

[Stic-o]

Personally I say stay away from the custom shaft thing. Right now I can walk into any place and get a part off the shelf, or borrow sominthing off a trail mate (excluding the long shaft, which is why I have a spare) It just makes thing easier. and less costly. remember you can always play with backspacing on wheels to change your width

 

[BKennedy]

So, if I get this right, the EB Dana 44 is about two inches wider than the stock D35 TTB?
That is why the one inch wheel spacers work so well to change the bolt pattern on the rear axle, and even up the axle widths?

 

[Dannyboy]

yup

 

[FROADER]

Subtleties... :

^ ^ ^ Weird looking word.

 

[Diff Whack Daddy]

Lmao!!!!!!!!!!

 

[BKennedy]

Subtleties... :

^ ^ ^ Weird looking word.

Okay, that's just friggin weird. But I like it.:

 

[Stic-o]

Is it St. Patty's day......or are dana 44's talkin to me: