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Dana 44 spindle nuts

Discussion in 'Offroad Drivelines' started by yostyexplorer94, May 5, 2017.

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    1. yostyexplorer94

      yostyexplorer94 1st Gen Mod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      1979 dana 44
      Does anyone else have problems with the spindle washer spinning off the keyway when torquing down the outer nut and messing up the spindle threads? I just had to put some weld on the washer and file it down to size to get it to hold. Just seeing if anyone else has issues with this because the struggle is real!

      I would love to get stage 8 nuts but they are around $150 which is too extreme of a price for some nuts!
       
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    3. yostyexplorer94

      yostyexplorer94 1st Gen Mod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I gave in and ended up getting stage 8 spindle nuts. I will install them the next time I need to tear it apart
       
    4. Frank1669

      Frank1669 New Member

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      a pict of what you have might help. I have only seen 3 types of set ups 1 washers with holes drilled in them 1 nut goes inside has a post on it to line up and hold washer. 2 or very old style that has ears you fold over the nut to keep it from spinning. or 3 on newer style it is a piece unit. You may have mis matched or extra parts- sorry did not see your post before you ordered parts.
       
    5. RangerX

      RangerX Elite Ranger Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Same issue as the D35 nuts.
      BKennedy runs a D44 and I seem to recall he did something to improve that scenario, but I'm not sure what it was he did. Maybe he'll chime in.
       
    6. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I used the same nuts off my D35 on my D44. They are plain old Warn manual hub nut sets. I used lock-tite on the D35 outer nut which kept them from ever getting loose. I haven't had any issues with the D44, and never had issues with the washers spinning off the keyway. Have had to spend many frustrating minutes flipping the washer around to get it to line up in a space I can barely get my finger tips into though. I have only pulled the hubs apart to check the bearings one time since my SAS and they looked great, so haven't messed with them since.
       
    7. yostyexplorer94

      yostyexplorer94 1st Gen Mod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      The right side of the slot 2 threads are messed up. Near the middle. I replaced this spindle with a good spare one I had.
      [​IMG]

      This is what happens to the spindle washer. The tab on the bottom gets messed up.

      I thought about welding two of these washers together so the tab would be twice as thick. It probably would have solved my problem I think. lol

      [​IMG]

      Stage 8 Beef

      [​IMG]

      Seems like it will lock in nicely.

      [​IMG]

      This is what I have to do to the spindle washer in order to keep it from spinning when tightening down the outer nut. I used my mig welder to build the tab back up, then I use a file to shape it back to where it fits right. These are my trail spares ziptied together.

      [​IMG]
       
      Last edited: June 27, 2017
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    8. BKennedy

      BKennedy Elite Loser Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Don't take this the wrong way, but are you sure you are installing them right? I have 3-4 nut sets that I keep as spares because I thought they looked a little beat up, but they all look better than the pictures.
      This is how I install;
      No impact, do it all by hand.
      *Install packed wheel bearings, and pack the space between the bearings with grease so when the outer bearing is installed, grease pushes through.
      *Clean up spindle threads with a little brake parts cleaner on a rag.
      *Inner nut on hand tight, using 4-post socket. This is hard to explain, but after replacing the D35 bearings numerous times, I got pretty good at "feeling" the sweet spot. I get a little rotational resistance, then rotate the hub both directions several turns while putting pressure on the socket, to fully seat the bearings. I then then back the nut off slightly. I might do this several times until it feels right.
      *Note: The book says to torque inner nut to 35 foot pounds, rotate hub at least one full turn, back nut off 1/2 rotation, ret-torque inner nut to 16 foot pounds.
      *Washer positioned so it will only allow the minimum slip of inner nut when torque applied to outer nut. This is the part that takes the most time for me.
      *Put a couple of drops of medium strength thread locker on outer nut threads.
      *Hand torque outer nut to 150 foot pounds. The washer and inner nut will turn slightly until the washer slot engages the tab and inner nut pin, providing the proper torque on the inner nut.
      *Check bearing play with tire/wheel installed for better leverage.

      This has worked for me for many years of trouble free off-roading, both with D35 and D44 axles. I got the thread locker idea from Winter, Paul B's fabricating wizard. I remove the outer nut with a impact to break the thread locker free, but do the install by hand.

      If those are Warn nut sets, they have a life-time warranty. If you email their customer service, they will send you a new set.

      Edit: When you have it apart, install a set of these in place of the spindle bearings and seal.
      http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Extreme_Spindle_Bushings_Dana30-44/bronco_Dana44
       
    9. yostyexplorer94

      yostyexplorer94 1st Gen Mod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      That's the procedure I use, minus the thread locker. I always use a torque wrench never the impact gun. The nuts and washers I use are either 35 or 44. I have a collection of them. Bought some from therangerstation.com store a long time ago. I figured someone else has had this issue but maybe the spindle washers just need replaced all together.

      Thanks to all for taking the time to reply and I will take your advice on the spindle bushings. Thanks!
       

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