Discussion in 'Offroad Drivelines' started by Trckmagik, March 1, 2004.
gonna need some new wheels too!
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I'd like to do this to my X. Is there any specific year of D44TTB to look for for parts?
Does anyone have pictures of the modified steering setup?
My Axle is going in finally. YAY.. I am going to be posting pics soon.. I took the old axle out, and the dana 44 outters are ready to go in.. along with the Cut and Turned beams, extended arms, and 4.56 gears. cant wait to get it all in.
My parts are coming in the mail + I have my new 4.56 already!!!!!!!
cpuld you give me a quick rundown on what you did to reverse the taper for the tie rods?
My Machine shop Drills the original hole out in two levels and makes a tapered shim which is pressed in to the hole the new Shim has a Taper to match the tie rod to the Explorer.
Hey Kris, any updates on the swap?
Yes Iam finishing my Rear end prob weds. which mean the Front end will get finished soon after. I had problems with the Alignement of my Beams so I had custom drop brackets made.
How's it looking? Pics?
What local shop did you use to fabricate drop brackets?
This is something I'm going to do and have been reading up on it. Along with what you have posted, the magazine "Off Road" by Primedia has had this as a tech project called "Project Trailrunner" on a Ranger D35 TTB in their Feb and March 2006 issues. And they're not done yet.
The TRS site said the spindles are interchangable-not the case. The write up in the magazine is OK with some pics comparing some of the parts-spindles, rotors and some of the trouble areas and how they are tackling them. One area is the alignment cams for the upper ball joint, I'm going to get one for each and design a set with the dimensionsneeded from each to work perfectly. I will have a friend machine them up on his CNC machines (probably 10 sets). These are too important to try to weld, grind and ream out by hand...as they are doing in the magazine. Hopefully the next issue has the job completed and lists all references...
A guy at the local bone yard printed out the knuckles and spindles I will be getting from him. Full size Bronco after 10/1985 and 1986-92, and F150 1986-92, of course the will be 4x4 D44 TTB setups. Quoted me $150 for the 2 knuckles, 2 spindles and they pull them. I saw some where (TRS site I think) that 1987 parts should be avoided-not sure why.
I have to be sure I research this well enough to comple the job in a weekend, because I use my truck for work driving 500-600 miles a week. So if anyone completes it and posts his/her experiences it would be greatly appreciated.
BuffaloX, I already completed the swap of the knuckles. Mine is already in the Truck I just havnt driven it yet. I have done all the machine work to make the swap possible.
I have a my machine shop work using F150 ball joints and regular axle arms, but need to set up my new gears before I put it in. Kris what are you doing to the 8.8 to match front pattern?
Sounds to me like you need some spare D35 beams to work with, otherwise you cannot always count on Monday morning, this I have learned
New Axle shaft from Dutchman The Best way to go...
Hey 410Fortune- I do but the gearing is wrong. I have a 92xlt for parts...will the stub shafts from the D44 I'll get the knuckles and spindles from swap with the D35 stub shafts? They would if they use the same u-joint right. One of a few questions.
yes they use the same U-joint so all you have to do is put the f-150 stub shaft on the Explorer shaft.
Anyone know of a kit to replace the Tie Rod End with a Heim Joint? It would consist of the tapered piece that would bolt into the knuckle with a trheaded end on top to receive the Heim Joint that is threaded into the drag link.
I'd like to keep the machining of the knuckle at a minimum and configure a more "Bolt On" formula to keep it easier and more capable for those with less time and machining resourses...
^^ This would be relatively simple ^^
I bought a reamer $75 and two bushings from BC Broncs reversed the taper and inserted sleeve. This allowed me to use the stock explorer steering setup. Also used F150 balljoints and camber adjusters. Once I finish setting up new gears will see how alignment works out.
Thanks for the info Bronco Bill, and everyone who posted...
Got my parts form the bone yard Sat. I told them I needed the knuckles, spindles and axle stub ends-and if possible the steering linkage. They torched off the beam tabs at the ball joints and cut the pitman arm and said here you go.
I had asked for manual hubs but no luck, I'll go back and I'm sure they'll let me take them from another trruck. I was a bit worried when the passenger side axle was separated from the spindle. Later found some of the guts missing upon disassembly.
Bronco Bill, from what I've read the camber adjusters are too short to use, and another area for rework is the taper in the axle housing flange to receive the lower ball joint. Should be reamed larger for the D44 ball joint.? Oh, thanks for the BC Bronco site ref. they had the parts I need for the Heim conversion.
I'm getting my info from the article in Off Road mag. Not that they know what they are talking about, but not too much info else where for reference....
Thanks for your help.
I've been working on getting all of the incredibly rusted parts off the knuckle so I can clean them up to paint and rebuild with all new parts, bearings...
One of the hubs had a dent in the side of it compressing on the auto locking parts. Being un familiar with disassembling them made me wonder if I was doing it wrong but we "goter done!" Would have been a real pain without the 12 ton shop press to push the hubs out.
Here's a link to the stud for replacing the Tie Rod with a Heim joint, I'm calling B.C. Bronco's today to see about the parts and tools to do this and the other reamer for the lower ball joint. I definitely want to mount the Heim joint from the top for extra clearance. Hey Bronco Bill you want to sell the reamer you have, if it's the same taper as the stud in the link below?
I took some pics of the work in progress, but the best pic is the one of the 16x8" Ford take offs, these are sweet rims-brand new and all 4 for $150 from a local parts dealer HowBills.
You are better of buying a new sharp reamer. I think mine came from goodson.com very inexpensive. I used the same reamer to enlarge the lower ball joint hole and reverse the taper in the knuckle. I used a tra adapter bushing from BC broncos in the new taper. This allowed me to use the stock explorer steering setup. The reamer and two bushings cost me around $100 + F-150 parts around another $100.
Thanks to Kris for coming up with idea.
OK Bill, Got the TRA Bushings coming, thanks for your help. Chuck at BC Bronco's told me that Snap-On drivers stock the needed reamer on their truck P/N R121 and it costs about $15. Will do the reaming as soon as the bushings come.
Anyone know if the brake lines bolt right up or do I need different ones?