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Dannyboy's Re-Registry

What better time than now to do this.

Here is my old 94
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100935

Just when my transmission crapped out again, I saw my current 91 for sale on this forum. Joe (Lilmule) owned the truck since new and moved to Milwaukee. When I got this truck I had no clue what I was getting myself into. Honestly, I purchased the truck for the glass fenders and C4/C5 transmission setup. I didn't want to deal with TTB, didn't know who "Autofab" was and didn't like that it was spring under and had some 9" axle that I knew nothing about. Here was the plan, combine these 2 trucks, solid axles, updated glass, C4/C5 tranny, 37" swampers, and ditch the blue truck.

91Explorer1012Medium.jpg




Luckily for me and this truck, I didn't have time to start parting it down. I took it out on a few rides, fully rusted out and couldn't believe the "shalackin" I could put into this truck. I spoke with Joe on the phone a few times over the first year and he kept going on about how great this setup is but never really knocked my solid axle idea or told me what to do. I did start to see that some serious money was spent on this rig the first time it was built.

When Joe mentioned his bill was in the 5 digit numbers at various places like Autofab, Currie/Mogi etc, I realized that I needed to do some more digging into what I had gotten myself into.

Disappointed my 94 that had nearly $30,000 into over the years was sitting dead with transmission parts in a box in the backseat, I researched what I had. I realized that the blue 91 was the truck to move forward with, XL over a Limited means less issues, power features to short out and it had some serious potential. I parted down my 94 and laid it to rest.

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The for sale ad even said "Needs TLC, after that..."

and this brings me up to speed.

I ran this truck for a while, my avatar photo was taken without spending $1 on this truck, I couldn't belive taking a truck that was sitting could handle this abuse. This little thing was just a machine.

DSC01836.jpg


Then I went to Truckhaven and it was pointed out by other members that I had some work to do, a shackle was nearly rusted through, radius arm bushings were toast, etc. I didn't care, I have a trailer and a tow rig...this trip it paid to have them. I was running a wash and snapped the passenger side u bolts, puncturing the tire and leaving the truck not driveable. I don't even think a trail repair would have gotten me to drive this out.

truckhaven046Medium.jpg


I still got a good weekend of wheeling out of this truck and still had the attitude that I could leave it behind if something happened to it for how cheap I bought it.

Still considering the Dana 44 I have sitting at my house, I decided that I didn't want to give up the speed. I visited Autofab while in San Diego and John was a very cool guy for discussing a truck he built probably over ten years ago. It was at that point I decided to go forward with the original intention.

One trip to Truckhaven with some new updates such as 33x12.50s instead of 33x9.50s, new spring pack to replace the original 11 leaf spring under pack (which raised the rear of the truck nearly 5" from the tired pack), new brakes, auxilay fuse panel, the bumper from my 94 got me excited making it look like a whole new truck.

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It was at this point I got bit bad by the bug. I needed new shocks, the rear was just too bouncy, I was going fast and am madly in love with the lady who loves to ride shotgun so now 2 lives needed to be protected and lots of stuff needed to be fixed to keep up with this speed.

Well, 6 months in the fab shop, the truck has just had it's first run with the "new" setup.
IMGA0088.jpg


So here is the breakdown

Engine
Ford 4.0
KKM filter
stainless intake
hypertech chip
headers
exhaust

Transmission
C5 3 speed built by Mogi Enterprises with all C4 internals
reverse valve bodied (an auto but you need to manually shift)
Art Carr shifter
B&M tranny pan
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Transfer Case
Stock pushbutton transfer case (button in a not-so-stock dash)
spaced back since C5 tranny is much shorter than stock, retaining stock front driveline length

Front End
Dana 35 TTB, AutoFab kit (the $3600 kit before shocks!!!) inlcudes extended radius arms, tranny crossmember, triple shock mount (1 behind, 2 in front) currently running Rancho 5000s but 3 of them keep it in control
16" of wheel travel approx 6" of raised height over stock
4.56 gears-no locker (don't want one)
warn manual hubs
5/8" wheel studs
limiting straps
"Winter" mods on inner axle shaft and passage

IMG_6834.jpg

IMG_6836.jpg


Rear End
Ford 9" built by Currie, fully trussed
4.56 gears w/ Detroit quick lock
Disc brakes, Wilwood 4 piston calipers, 2 piece rotors (see writeup)
5/8" wheel studs
Valley Spring Service 11 leaf spring under leaf pack
Total Chaos low profile u-bolt retention plates
King 3.0 16" travel triple bypass piggyback shocks
Aftermarket Shackles
Wilwood brake proportioning valve

IMGA0089.jpg

IMGA0091.jpg


Wheels/tires
I've ran several setups, currently running 35" BFG Krawlers on 15x10 steel wheels.

Other Exterior
Perry's 2000 conversion front end, 6" pull fiberglass
4 pin removable fiberglass hood
autofab prerunner front bumper
Dannyboy's designed rear bumper/2" receiver
Rock sliders
2-8" 130 watt driving lights
4 rocklights mounted 2' behind each wheel
DSC_0538_resize.jpg

DSC_0813.jpg

IMGA0092.jpg


Cage

HUNTER OFFROAD custom built roll cage-www.hunteroffroad.com
*all interior gutted for tight fit
*in-cargo shock mount for King shocks
*4 bucket seats incorporated and tied into cage
*ties into frame in 6 positions
*ties into body in 16 positions
*spreader bars
*A-pillar support (required windshield removal)
*1.75" steel and 1.5" (approx 130 feet total)
*Hi-lift Jack mounts, spare front/rear driveshafts, shovel, fire extinguisher mounts
Picture008medium.jpg

fd_001_Medium_.jpg

IMG_6839.jpg

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Other work by Hunter Offroad
* removable Aluminum dash assembly
* custom built door skins (required with cage side support tubework
* hood pins for 4 pin removable hood
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IMG_6847.jpg

IMG_6838.jpg

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Interior
4 Corbeau bucket seats
4 Crow 5 point wrap-around harnesses
Auto Meter instrumentation gauges (Tach, Speedo, Oil pressure, Water, Fuel, Voltage, Transmission Temp) see writeup
12 Position Auxiliary fuse panel (see writeup)
Kenwood Receiver
Sirius Stiletto dash mount
Garmin Extrex Legend dash mount
CB radio
Full Recovery & Safety Gear + tools, parts


IMG_6846.jpg

IMG_6840.jpg

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IMGA0079.jpg

91012.jpg

91011.jpg

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Here is my 3 step process to access all tools/cargo until I get a tire carrier of some sort built
tools/camping chairs/spare parts safely secured
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Spare fluids in tote that securely fits under shock mount.
fd_002_Medium_.jpg


Tire just barely fits with 10PSI
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Not sure where to list this, but I installed my Willwood proportioning valve to get the rear braking under control, can adjust front/rear brake distribution from the drivers seat
fd_015_Medium_.jpg


ROCK ON! Thanks for looking.
4wheelin042Large.jpg
 



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The one piece would be cool but more expensive to replace than a single fender if it got damaged 4 wheeling.

That and they are a total PITA to mount and make look good. Dan if you want some Fiberwex 6" fenders i can get you a deal on those too. Or i can get you a little off the fiberwerx one piece if you decide to go that route.
 



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yeah, I'm likely going to go with replacing mine with a used set of orange fenders:exporange

For what I'm trying to accomplish, there will be plenty of other variables.

I'm also having a hard time getting an answer from different shops about looking at my truck. I told one guy what I have going on and he immediately said to throw another fuel pump at it because of a check ball issue (I'm dropping to zero pounds upon shutting off the truck).

I'm basically gambling with parts at this point.

Things I'm thinking I need

1) another fuel pump
2) injector(s)
3) clogged cat?
4) plug wires (should do this anyway but it is not fuel pump related)
 






Aw, i had no idea the orange fenders were still around, or i might have inquired about them.
 






i haven't been on here in so long i thought maybe you sold the blue explorer. glad you stll have it and still takin care of it.

i can't help with engine stuff, not my specialty. but fuel pumps aren't known to last long in fords. injectors i've heard don't go out often, but they did go out in jim's bronco. expensive repair for a shop to do it.

i agree with mounty and carlover, one peice front end would look sweet... on a show car. individual fenders are easy to get used if you break them, or at least easier to find for sale.

and if your thinking of going coilovers, i know it may sound odd for me to say this, but run coilovers to your straight axle sitting in the garage. much better for 4x4, stronger, and with coilovers and air bumps it'd still be smooth in the desert. there's a lot of prerunners with straight axles. to each his own
 






yeah, I hear that. The only issue I really am having is transmission jumping out of gear, motor runnign weak, tires hitting inner fender, fiberglass and front assembly breaking apart. I'm not going to go spend another $5k on fancy stuff, what I have in there works and in my opinion it works well. I'm fixing whats broke with future plans to rework the suspension if/when I ever start outrunning that.

I just ordered another $250 worth of rear brake parts. If/when I ever build a different truck, it will definitely have high performance parts (shocks/air bumps) but the basic stuff is always going to be built with parts readily available off the shelf. There is no reason an Explorer running 1/2 hardware shouldn't hold up just fine, I don't need any fancy 2 piece rotors or custom brake pads that have only lasted me 1000 miles and are a 2 day away part to replace.
 






could you also get the fiberglass fixed/patched by a fiberglass guy? im not sure what you dealing with, it's probably more broken than i think. for tire rub, a hammer and sawzall is always handy. i trimmed my rear inner fender/firewall-ish thing with a sledge hammer and cut the fiberglass with a cut off blade grinder. i looked closely at fakawee's (sp) trimming job. and if you have any threads sticking out behind your radius arm bushing you can put a peice of tubing/piping in front of the bracket to space it forward. i did that on mine, i put a 3/4" spacer on the radius arm before the bushing and washer. i had to trim my bushing down in the back to have enough threads. mine's kinda ghetto
 






That's what I'm looking at doing. I tried a washer last time but it didn't do much. I also think I have a bent radius arm on the passenger side. Not bad, but enough to maybe make it cycle up and back. My glass is broke all the way through on the passenger side. I may look at a repair but I don't think it's worth it.




That Crazy RockRanger ya know.
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danny dropping to 0 pounds as soon as you shut off the truck is similar to what my 88 does, my 96 does, our 97 4.0L does... I dont know any gen I or II that holds fuel pressure, I believe that is a myth

It drops slowly, but in about 20 min or so its at 0 psi


All trucks run perfectly

If you are running at 30# psi at WOT perhaps the power issue is not fuel related? I would like to see 32 or more psi but its not dropping when you are at WOT.
You can test your FPR with a vacuum pump
cat converters sound okay? (no internal rattles?)

spark plug wires new?

compression test, spark test may be in order


any CEL?
 






danny dropping to 0 pounds as soon as you shut off the truck is similar to what my 88 does, my 96 does, our 97 4.0L does... I dont know any gen I or II that holds fuel pressure, I believe that is a myth

It drops slowly, but in about 20 min or so its at 0 psi


All trucks run perfectly


mine drops instantly to "0"
 






insantly = suck o

hmmm any kinks in the lines?
Fitting may be clogged?
filter is new
return hose clogged?

sounds like its having a hard time keeping it at 30 psi = blockage in the pickup or return line is my thinking

How do you feel about fuel cells? LOL

my 88 BII fuel system is troublesome also, two pumps, old lines & fittings, etc etc I want to rip it all out and go simple aftermarket
 






fender triming.

here's some pics of my fender triming. hope it helps give ideas. made a big difference

explorernnavajo103.jpg
explorernnavajo106.jpg


and "extended" radius arms (sorry that the pics are crap)

explorernnavajo101.jpg

explorernnavajo102.jpg
 






well, in holding true to my promises, I am continuing on with the upgrades, but spend last week welding up my radiator supports for temporary trail use and am waiting on the front cagework, replaced the rear brakes and rotors (again) and dropped the truck off at the transmission shop today.


I ran Raw Deal and a few other trails yesterday and everything held up well. No breakage but I didn't have much of a chance to go fast in anything. The proportioning valve works well now that I have the correct rear brake compound from Willwood.

I've got my fingers crossed that the transmission experts will be able to help my ability to climb the hills without popping out of gear.
 






Is it POPPING out of gear (shifter) or is the trans losing power?

if losing power, more transmission fluid!!

What pan does your C4/5 have on it? If it is a 2wd pan you may want to convert to a 4x4 pan, or an aftermarket pan designed for 4x4ing

I had an A4ld, I put an aftermarket pan on it, in Moab I had to add 4 quarts of trans fluid to make launching pad.........SCARY SCARY nothing like being 3/4 the way up and your trans goes into N... backing down that sucker 4 times was scary as shi$^%

solution was a different trans filter with a longer pickup tube

trans was scavening for fluid, sucking AIR = no bueno
 






pretty much the same thing I'm dealing with. I have a deep B&M trans pan. Only issue with adding more fluid is it could be a problem when running it faster on the highway. You don't want to "foam" the fluid. I had a leak somewhere so I decided to let the pros look at this. It's not even worth me going to Moab or Truckhaven again the way it was working before.
 






so its not the shift linkage, its the trans scavenging air

B&M pan may NOT WORK for you
stock 4x4 pan = built in sump = no scavenging

What I did was use a piece of clay to determine the amount of clearance between my filter pick up tube and the pan bottom, I bought a 4x4 filter and trimmed it so there was about 1/4" clearance between pan and filter, 1 quart overfull and it worked great like that until I pulled it and went V8

flat bottom trans pans are not made for 4x4ing, steep inclines are tough on auto trans

Scary crap being half way up a ledge/on your way to the moon and have the trans go

BANG! Neautral!
 






ahhh, gotcha, well, 4x4 pan may be the next try.

And I know what you mean...been there, don't like it.

whats worse is when it revs and basically neutral drops. That's game for an end-over-end rollover.
 

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I prefer my extreme angles the opposite direction :D There is something to be said about when the person taking the picture is at the bottom of the hill and you can see that much roof of the vehicle.

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At least when your going down, you know where the ground is. Going up all you can see is sky.
 



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boy Danny... that's scary... I would probably sh** in my pants at that moment.
 






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