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Dannyboy's Re-Registry

What better time than now to do this.

Here is my old 94
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100935

Just when my transmission crapped out again, I saw my current 91 for sale on this forum. Joe (Lilmule) owned the truck since new and moved to Milwaukee. When I got this truck I had no clue what I was getting myself into. Honestly, I purchased the truck for the glass fenders and C4/C5 transmission setup. I didn't want to deal with TTB, didn't know who "Autofab" was and didn't like that it was spring under and had some 9" axle that I knew nothing about. Here was the plan, combine these 2 trucks, solid axles, updated glass, C4/C5 tranny, 37" swampers, and ditch the blue truck.

91Explorer1012Medium.jpg




Luckily for me and this truck, I didn't have time to start parting it down. I took it out on a few rides, fully rusted out and couldn't believe the "shalackin" I could put into this truck. I spoke with Joe on the phone a few times over the first year and he kept going on about how great this setup is but never really knocked my solid axle idea or told me what to do. I did start to see that some serious money was spent on this rig the first time it was built.

When Joe mentioned his bill was in the 5 digit numbers at various places like Autofab, Currie/Mogi etc, I realized that I needed to do some more digging into what I had gotten myself into.

Disappointed my 94 that had nearly $30,000 into over the years was sitting dead with transmission parts in a box in the backseat, I researched what I had. I realized that the blue 91 was the truck to move forward with, XL over a Limited means less issues, power features to short out and it had some serious potential. I parted down my 94 and laid it to rest.

junkyardtow.jpg




The for sale ad even said "Needs TLC, after that..."

and this brings me up to speed.

I ran this truck for a while, my avatar photo was taken without spending $1 on this truck, I couldn't belive taking a truck that was sitting could handle this abuse. This little thing was just a machine.

DSC01836.jpg


Then I went to Truckhaven and it was pointed out by other members that I had some work to do, a shackle was nearly rusted through, radius arm bushings were toast, etc. I didn't care, I have a trailer and a tow rig...this trip it paid to have them. I was running a wash and snapped the passenger side u bolts, puncturing the tire and leaving the truck not driveable. I don't even think a trail repair would have gotten me to drive this out.

truckhaven046Medium.jpg


I still got a good weekend of wheeling out of this truck and still had the attitude that I could leave it behind if something happened to it for how cheap I bought it.

Still considering the Dana 44 I have sitting at my house, I decided that I didn't want to give up the speed. I visited Autofab while in San Diego and John was a very cool guy for discussing a truck he built probably over ten years ago. It was at that point I decided to go forward with the original intention.

One trip to Truckhaven with some new updates such as 33x12.50s instead of 33x9.50s, new spring pack to replace the original 11 leaf spring under pack (which raised the rear of the truck nearly 5" from the tired pack), new brakes, auxilay fuse panel, the bumper from my 94 got me excited making it look like a whole new truck.

DSC_0537_resize.jpg


It was at this point I got bit bad by the bug. I needed new shocks, the rear was just too bouncy, I was going fast and am madly in love with the lady who loves to ride shotgun so now 2 lives needed to be protected and lots of stuff needed to be fixed to keep up with this speed.

Well, 6 months in the fab shop, the truck has just had it's first run with the "new" setup.
IMGA0088.jpg


So here is the breakdown

Engine
Ford 4.0
KKM filter
stainless intake
hypertech chip
headers
exhaust

Transmission
C5 3 speed built by Mogi Enterprises with all C4 internals
reverse valve bodied (an auto but you need to manually shift)
Art Carr shifter
B&M tranny pan
91009.jpg



Transfer Case
Stock pushbutton transfer case (button in a not-so-stock dash)
spaced back since C5 tranny is much shorter than stock, retaining stock front driveline length

Front End
Dana 35 TTB, AutoFab kit (the $3600 kit before shocks!!!) inlcudes extended radius arms, tranny crossmember, triple shock mount (1 behind, 2 in front) currently running Rancho 5000s but 3 of them keep it in control
16" of wheel travel approx 6" of raised height over stock
4.56 gears-no locker (don't want one)
warn manual hubs
5/8" wheel studs
limiting straps
"Winter" mods on inner axle shaft and passage

IMG_6834.jpg

IMG_6836.jpg


Rear End
Ford 9" built by Currie, fully trussed
4.56 gears w/ Detroit quick lock
Disc brakes, Wilwood 4 piston calipers, 2 piece rotors (see writeup)
5/8" wheel studs
Valley Spring Service 11 leaf spring under leaf pack
Total Chaos low profile u-bolt retention plates
King 3.0 16" travel triple bypass piggyback shocks
Aftermarket Shackles
Wilwood brake proportioning valve

IMGA0089.jpg

IMGA0091.jpg


Wheels/tires
I've ran several setups, currently running 35" BFG Krawlers on 15x10 steel wheels.

Other Exterior
Perry's 2000 conversion front end, 6" pull fiberglass
4 pin removable fiberglass hood
autofab prerunner front bumper
Dannyboy's designed rear bumper/2" receiver
Rock sliders
2-8" 130 watt driving lights
4 rocklights mounted 2' behind each wheel
DSC_0538_resize.jpg

DSC_0813.jpg

IMGA0092.jpg


Cage

HUNTER OFFROAD custom built roll cage-www.hunteroffroad.com
*all interior gutted for tight fit
*in-cargo shock mount for King shocks
*4 bucket seats incorporated and tied into cage
*ties into frame in 6 positions
*ties into body in 16 positions
*spreader bars
*A-pillar support (required windshield removal)
*1.75" steel and 1.5" (approx 130 feet total)
*Hi-lift Jack mounts, spare front/rear driveshafts, shovel, fire extinguisher mounts
Picture008medium.jpg

fd_001_Medium_.jpg

IMG_6839.jpg

IMG_6842.jpg



Other work by Hunter Offroad
* removable Aluminum dash assembly
* custom built door skins (required with cage side support tubework
* hood pins for 4 pin removable hood
fd_017_Medium_.jpg

fd_007_Medium_.jpg

IMG_6847.jpg

IMG_6838.jpg

fd_008_Medium_.jpg




Interior
4 Corbeau bucket seats
4 Crow 5 point wrap-around harnesses
Auto Meter instrumentation gauges (Tach, Speedo, Oil pressure, Water, Fuel, Voltage, Transmission Temp) see writeup
12 Position Auxiliary fuse panel (see writeup)
Kenwood Receiver
Sirius Stiletto dash mount
Garmin Extrex Legend dash mount
CB radio
Full Recovery & Safety Gear + tools, parts


IMG_6846.jpg

IMG_6840.jpg

fd_016_Medium_.jpg

IMGA0079.jpg

91012.jpg

91011.jpg

fd_014_Medium_.jpg

fd_013_Medium_.jpg



Here is my 3 step process to access all tools/cargo until I get a tire carrier of some sort built
tools/camping chairs/spare parts safely secured
fd_001_Medium_.jpg


Spare fluids in tote that securely fits under shock mount.
fd_002_Medium_.jpg


Tire just barely fits with 10PSI
fd_019_Medium_.jpg







Not sure where to list this, but I installed my Willwood proportioning valve to get the rear braking under control, can adjust front/rear brake distribution from the drivers seat
fd_015_Medium_.jpg


ROCK ON! Thanks for looking.
4wheelin042Large.jpg
 



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it gives you signs... It's time for the 5.0! please... :rolleyes:
 



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Good news- 150 lbs on compression test in all 6 cylinders, and wet plugs with fuel shooting out of the cylinder when I was cranking over the engine...For some reason that is good news? Maybe it was bad gas at Texaco in Moab???

SVO support says my next step is to pull my chip and see if that leans out the fuel delivery.

And I found the wire that ran from my oil pressure sending unit was wrapped around my steering shaft which may be the cause of some electrical issues because there was some definite shorting out and electric smelling smoke coming up.

Anyone have a great replacement terminal they recommend vs. the $4.00 ones from autozone? Hey, at least I didn't buy the $2.00 ones.
 






Yep, when you introduce a ground in to a place it shouldn't be, it can cause all kinds of funky problems.
 






Anyone have a great replacement terminal they recommend vs. the $4.00 ones from autozone? Hey, at least I didn't buy the $2.00 ones.

Terminal for what? The battery or for the oil pressure sending unit?

If for the oil sending unit I just use a bullet connector that I modified with pliers/dikes.. I push it on.. and it had stayed there for over a year..

~Mark
 






I have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge, it's one that really works, I wasn't specific enough, but I also have had problems running an Optima battery and the terminals can't torque down enough on them.
 






So I sent a video over to Izwack and SVO (Jeff's been a big help being an automotive instructor, (I come from a white collar background with a will to learn but this is all new territory in enigines).

To this point I've been battling pinpointing the problem. Funny How I didn't check some of the basics. Changed plugs, wires, as noted before, ran compression, fuel delivery issues.

SO, I shot a video because I just couldn't make the plug spark outside of the block and wanted to show Jeff what I was having issues with. Decided to copy IZ, He brought up a very good point.


IZ noticed lots of smoke, thought to self, check coolant and oil. Sure enough, coolant low about 2 quarts, oil up at least 2 quarts. I immediately drained the oil from the block, it wasn't all chocolate milky like when the block was bad in my boat, but it sure was running out in a much thinner form than motor oil.

Now I guess the question is fix it or replace the engine with 90Ranajo's coming from his Ranger. I think that engine has a history of tipping over the truck it is powering.
 






The history on that motor is long. It came out of tdavis's 93 Navajo, so it's been a little more than off cmber a number of times. It's only been sidqways in Show's truck once and that was my fault, crappy spotting.
Posted via Mobile Device
 






So I sent a video over to Izwack and SVO (Jeff's been a big help being an automotive instructor, (I come from a white collar background with a will to learn but this is all new territory in enigines).

To this point I've been battling pinpointing the problem. Funny How I didn't check some of the basics. Changed plugs, wires, as noted before, ran compression, fuel delivery issues.

SO, I shot a video because I just couldn't make the plug spark outside of the block and wanted to show Jeff what I was having issues with. Decided to copy IZ, He brought up a very good point.


IZ noticed lots of smoke, thought to self, check coolant and oil. Sure enough, coolant low about 2 quarts, oil up at least 2 quarts. I immediately drained the oil from the block, it wasn't all chocolate milky like when the block was bad in my boat, but it sure was running out in a much thinner form than motor oil.

Now I guess the question is fix it or replace the engine with 90Ranajo's coming from his Ranger. I think that engine has a history of tipping over the truck it is powering.

If you can't get that other motor, I have a high mileage short block (no heads/intake etc) that you can have for free.. it has 355k miles when I took it out.. I only took it "out" becuase I built the replacement motor while I was still driving mine.. It had 150 (or was it 160) compression on all cylinders except #4 (drivers front) which had 130ish (thats the one that had the spark plug tip break off)..

~Mark
 






Personally, I'd get the motor from show, then tear down the one you have when you have time, and build it up as a spare, depending on what's wrong with it. High oil, low water could be a head gasket, cracked head, or cracked block. Just depends on if it's worth rebuilding.
 






^^^^
Ditto.


Its much less stress to build a motor when you have a motor installed and running already...

You also don't cut corners to save time...

~Mark
 






Used motor for your bumper? :)
 












A 4l noooooob
 






Oh wow well that's a totally different route!
Posted via Mobile Device
 






Ok forget my last post - apparently I can't read and buy grocery at the same time.
Posted from the Cereal aisle at the Grocery Store
 












Edit doesnt work too well on a Blackberry. :(
 






See i knew you were sam. Baaaaaa chicka boooowoooooow. Sup Danny?
 






So here's a carnage shot of my rotor situation from Moab.

IMG_0229-vi.jpg


IMG_0220-vi.jpg

What the hell did you hit??
Not to get picky but in the op you stated the C5 being shorter. It usually would be but, thanks to the AA extension it comes out to be the same length as original. $600 part...:rolleyes:
Sorry, to here about the engine but, it's kinda expected. Abuse, thrashing, ya' know the usual fun stuff. The next weakest link.
And to eliminate the need to carry spare rear axles...go with a full floater. You should be able to have that one narrowed with new ends put on.
I'm glad to see you having so much fun with my old ride.
Have fun.
Be safe.
Joe
 



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I was going down a dropoff where I opend the proportioning valve to give the rear brakes the best grab, a few minutes later Brian1 pointed out a jump that he launched in a buggy a few months prior so I started gettting after it...not realizing that I was coming up short on runway for the landing I grabbed the brakes and when a flying truck bounces with the brakes locked either to tires skid or the caliper goes boom I guess...


It will be back...just other things going on in life right now...
 






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