Disconnect Torque Converter? - Transmission Slip between 1st and 2nd

[LeonJack]

Ok, I've studied Glacier991's 5R55E VB Rebuild Diary.

On page 6 of the Diary, KaiserM715 has some pictures where he has removed the VB and shows a "Seperator Plate Gasket" (blown out in multiple places - Wow it looked bad!!!).

I think this is what I need to, replace this seperator plate gasket.

It appears to replace the seperator plate gasket, I don't think I will need to even open the VB, (as described in the first page of the thread by Glacier991).

I hope this is the case, because if I do the full VB rebuild, I would be very afraid I will lose a part or not put a part back in the right place, and end up worse than I am now.

Replacing the seperator plate gasket appears to be "low risk" to me, except making sure that the "post engages the spool".

Few questions:
Do you think I am I on the right track here?
Is the Valve Body removed with a regular American/Metric socket, or do I need a special tool?
When the VB is out and the new Seperator Plate Gasket is installed, how do you make sure the Seperator Plate Gasket "sticks" to the VB and does not slide when putting the Valve Body back into the car?

Thanks again for everything.

 

[NHale623]

It is my understanding that if you buy a new separator plate, the gaskets are bonded to the plate, so slipping or misaligned gaskets should not be an issue. Honestly, if I was going to go through the trouble of dropping the valve body I would rebuild it. At least replace it with a known good one.

If you really don't think you have the skills to rebuild the valve body, you can purchase a rebuilt body for less than $300.

I do not enjoy taking showers in transmission fluid, so I would minimize the number of times the pan had to be dropped. If you replace the gaskets, then decide to rebuild/replace the valve body, you'll end up replacing the gaskets again anyway the second time around.

No, you shouldn't need any special tools. Just a good socket set and a good inch-pound torque wrench.

 

[Wrench]

Well there is a world of difference between rebuilding and cleaning a VB. I personally would recommend the Ford mod and use the upgraded, bonded gasket seperator plate assembly for your version. Yes, you will need to seperate the plate from the VB and care must be taken not to misplace stuff.
Disassembly of the VB components is a good thing as it will ensure that all is well within and to ferret out possible problems such as stuck spools or broken springs. A torx bit for the 3 sockethead bolts is all that is needed to remove the plate from the VB. Make sure you follow the inch/lbs torque sequence when putting the VB back in place. Recommend the aftermarket style viton D-ring seals for the reverse servo piston and a new cover gasket. Just remember to be very clean (lint free) and patient.

 

[LeonJack]

Hi Wrench,

When you say "Yes, you will need to seperate the plate from the VB and care must be taken not to misplace stuff."
What kind of things do I need to watch out for?
I am unsure what kind of "loose" parts there will be, are you referring to the bolts, or the other stuff also?

On another topic, I think I will need these items to replace the Seperator Plate Gasket:

Tools:
Socket wrench
Inch pound torque wrench

Parts:
Transmission fluid (5 quarts)
Transmission filter
Seperator Plate Gasket (upgraded, bonded gasket seperator plate assembly)

Does this sound right to you? Also, what is the "Ford mod" you refer to.

In addition to above, I think I will need these items to clean the VB:

Tools:
Torx bit

Parts:
Replacement for broken parts (upon review of the VB)
D-ring seals for the reverse servo piston and a new cover gasket (optional)

Thanks!
LeonJack

 

[1karkrazyguy]

Did you get the OBDII diganostic codes????

Hi,

Again, what were the OBD II DTC codes that were read out from your Explorer with a scan tool? Did any of the places you went to write down on the work order sheet those codes when they scanned the PCM? They should have. It makes it alot easier to get an informed diagnosis and advice from this forum.

Yes, the transmission filter should fit snugly to the valve body. The o-rings have to be installed onto the transmission filter and lubricated with ATF before putting the filter onto the valve body.

A rebuilt valve body with all new solenoids usually runs $225-250 from AXIOM, with the seperator plate on it ready to be installed... Pretty easy to install if you have the ATSG book for the 5R55E...

Good luck.

 

[LeonJack]

Hi,

The ODBII code readout only displayed P0171 and P0174. Those codes have been fixed by cleaning the MAF and replacing the Air Filter.

I am doing the Seperator Plate Gasket replacement, and possibly the VB cleaning, this weekend, (also blowing out the solenoids with some compressed air). (Got the gaskets and Transmission Filter from the Ford Dealer today).

I will try to take pictures along the way and post for anyone interested in seeing a novice mechanic work on their own VB.

Thanks alot for everyone that has been giving me advice. It has been invaluable. This has to be by far the best forum for help with the Ford Explorer.

 

[BrooklynBay]

How much did the dealer charge for the gaskets, separator plates, and filter? Did you compare their price to anybody else?

 

[LeonJack]

Gasket above Seperator Plate - $4
Gasket under Seperator Plate - $5
Filter - $33

No, didn't really compare prices and ended up not buying a new Seperator Plate.

 

[LeonJack]

Ok, I dropped the driveshaft, removed the transmission oil pan and filter

Noticed a piece of metal in the bottom of the transmission pan (99.99% sure this piece of metal wasn't there 3 weeks ago when I changed the transmission fluid)

Does anyone know what this piece of metal is?

It is all chewed up.

I'm not sure what to make of this.

This is the history:

Explorer was having shifting problems (shift flares) between 2-3 (or 1-2 ; not sure which exactly) at 131,000. Changed the transmission oil and and filter, added Lucas Transmission Treatment. Drove it again, no change - for better or for worse - exactly the same. Dropped the pan to start the changing of the seperator plate gasket and noticed this metal piece in the pan.

 

[BrooklynBay]

This part is what holds your band in place. You have to drop the valve body to install this. I would recommend buying a new one. BTW, the dealer sold you replacement gaskets, not the upgraded bonded gaskets with the separator plate. That filter is kind of expensive too. I wonder if you could return everything, and get all of this stuff from WWW.TransmissionPartsUSA.Com. This thread has pictures on how to replace that part, and adjust the bands.

 

[LeonJack]

How would I know if my bands are broken or non-usuable?

Concerning reinstalling the VB: I saw the torque sequence on page 7 of the rebuild diarry, but couldn't find the amount of torque to apply to the bolts. Is there a specific amount of torque I need to apply when bolting the VB back onto the transmission?

 

[BrooklynBay]

90 in/lbs. If you find any other parts in the pan, then the band is most likely broken. This adjuster probably fell out while you, or somebody else tried to adjust the bands, and turned the stud too far out.

 

[BrooklynBay]

This picture is from Steve VB's photo gallery:

You will know if you have a broken band if you find the piece on the right. That part is the lip of the band where the apply strut engages. The piece on the left is the part the adjusting stud pushes in, and out against the lip of the band. The part that you found is on the opposite side of the band (passenger's side of the transmission).

 

[LeonJack]

Hi again,

I pulled the VB (Gasket looked perfect on it). Saw the two adjusting bolts. The one on the front (towards the front of the explorer) of the transmission looks good. The adjusting bolt on the back is there, however nothing is attached to to it, (it's just sitting there).

I found out why I found the part of the left, (see BrooklynBay's reply above), was sitting in my transmission oil pan. It appears that a piece of the lip of the band is broken off, (see part on the right in BrooklynBay's reply above). Most of the band lip is still in tact, however part is broken off, (where it the apply strut actually engages the lip).

So, seems that there is no pressure being applied to this back band. Seems like this could very well cause my shifting problems, (however, I'm amazed the explorer is not having more shift problems besides between 1-2).

How hard is it to replace this band lip? Would I have to replace the entire band?

 

[LeonJack]

Ok, looks like I do need to replace the entire band.

I got these pictures from Glacier991's gallery:

Thanks Glacier!

I noticed after removing the VB that there was another piece above it that has the VB "looking" pathways. I believe I would need to remove this to replace the band. Do I need to remove this second "VB-type" piece and how do I do it?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Unfortunately, there is no simple way of replacing a broken band without opening up the entire transmission. I would suggest that you rebuild it at the same time since you will have to dismantle everything to get to it anyway.

 

[Glacier991]

BB is correct. The intermediate band will require removal of the transmission and disassemmbly back past the center support... that far in - rebuild it. If had been the OD band, you might have done it on the cheap.... but I agree with BB on this one, rebuild it.

By the way the band pics you found in my gallery were of a 4R70W band...but matters not as it is very similar to a A4LD or 5R55 band

 

[Roadstump]

Gentlemen, this thread was laying out to be the perfect solution to the exact problem that I was having with my transmission. I am about to post a new thread since this one ended without answering the question....did replacing/rebuilding the VB fix the problem of not shifting from 1st to 2nd?

My 94 auto transmission, 240,000 miles was serviced at 200,000 and the tech told me that he did all he could do...get a new tranny. I have lived with shifting from 1st to 2nd by letting off the gas to drop the rpms and allowing it to shift. The same thing happens if you downshift it to pass, it sometimes won't come out of the lower gear unless you drop the rpms.

I'm willing to take on this VB job but would love to know if it fixed the prob.

Gary